JOHNFAK

Not sure what you mean. That theres a problem with the 140A fuse itself ?? How would that place a draw on a circuit if the components have been removed. But we are talking about the 140A fuse circuit for the alternator. If all the wires are removed from both posts ...... can anything else be linked ???? Unclear here also.

Not sure if I followed exactly ...... but removing ALL the wires on the ALT fuse (both sides) showed me that there was still 05.A draw between the battery and the ALT fuse terminal posts (no wires either side) when bridged with battery. So no wires connected on either side of the alt fuse terminals posts ........ bridging from battery to EITHER of the empty posts had 0.5A draw.

Better Video hopefully http://vid1059.photobucket.com/albums/t430/fakdaddy/truck/20141129_095922.mp4

It was bench tested as good at store. I had to wait and extra 2 days as the 1st one they sent bench tested bad. This one I installed was tested good.

No I had to wait for a good alternator as the new one they initially got for me tested bad. So this one tested good ........

http://vid1059.photobucket.com/albums/t430/fakdaddy/truck/20141128_180004.mp4

So just got the alternator installed after they couldn't source a unit till after thanksgiving and then the one arrived tested bad. Installed it ...... still a 0.5A draw. I tried to grab a video but pretty dark ......... I'll upload as I can ...... ideas ?

Think mike had an example of testing this right ? Correct way to measure ?

Failed at both places I tried. New one here friday morning. Will update. thx

Well draw went from 0.5A to less than 0.2ma engine off after alternator pulled. going to get it bench tested

Engine off. The redwire in the pic is loop from the ALT circuit to the battery - basically for charging the battery from alternator. There was a smaller red wire for FSS which I removed to take the FSS out of the equation. All roads point to ALT ..... going to bench test it ......... but just want to be 100% sure as not able to return if it turns out to be something else.

This is where I am leaning. Going to pull the alternator and have it bench tested - but not sure how much I trust those tests is part of problem - they always want to sell your a new part ..... plus sometimes the tests say fine but not fine. If the ground side of the alternator is disabled ..... (passenger battery fully isolated/disconnected) - why is the alternator circuit still live though ? Multiple grounds ?

pic So Large Red is power for ALT on left terminal under small black wire. Large Black on right terminal is ground to block near APPS/TPS Small Black goes into LOOM that runs behind engine fuse compartment (I removed the small red wire on the right terminal which was for FSS solenoid) Passenger side battery fully disconnected. If I do an AMP test with the +ve battery cable disconected..... bridging the battery terminal with the positive cable with my multimeter set to 10A Amergae test ....... I get ~0.5A. If I disconnect the red wire on the very end of the battery cable (goes to the alternator circuit) the draw stops.

I'll have to post a pic. Disabled (took off) the FSS wire and no difference. So basically have 3 more wires on the 140A alternator circuit 1 large Red (ties from battery to alternator circuit) 1 large black (ground to side of block near APPS/TPS) 1 mid/small black which feeds into a wire loom back behind engine fuse compartment .........

Problem is I cant really - as its shared with Grid Heater and FSS. I already know thats the circuit where the draw is comming from - just about isolating the problem component. I figured if I disabled the field wire as well as the the passenger side battery that would be enough to take the alternator out of the equation ....... not right ?

If its just the fuel in your sig ....... you want a superB or a he351cw.

Hey guys Had to let truck sit - other things going on. Started to wonder if maybe I had a bad battery and was cross draining ......... so charged them both for 24 hours. The suspect one passenger side is holding 12.5V and the good one 12.9v. Hard to tell though as no large draw/load. So I disconnected the field wire from alternator ..... no change still 0.5A draw. Then I disconnected the passenger side battery completely - which is where the alternator is grounded through ...... still 0.5A draw on the positive side from the 140A alternator circuit (which is shared with grid heater and FSS). So thinking its not the alternator ...... FSS or grid heater .... ??? Am I doing this right in terms of isolating ?

Hey fellas Started diag on a battery drain today. Seems when I disconnect the alternator the drain goes from 480mA to under 50mA ........ how do I determine if I have a bad ground on alternator an open circuit ..... or just a bad alternator.

Check line pressure with a 1/8 npt guage

Hey guys. Sorry - yeah not sure why I haven't been on ....... mainly I just seem to be checking CF/DTX/COMPD for something I can use on my truck - or the odd issue. Bill - saw your PM - absolutely we will hook up. We can either do slight north tampa to make it kinda central ......... or if you prefer I can do a BBQ at my house .......2 block from beach in ST PETE. Either way we'll get it sorted - and I'll make sure Ryan (whitelightening98) knows as well. He's been off the forums a lot generally - selling his truck (trying) and getting into a 4BT jeep from memory or at leat wanting too .... just busy with the wife and kids. Anyway - hope your all well ....... will make sure to pop by a bit more often. Thx ISX for the ping.

Juice CTS is the best all around for our trucks. Larger injectors and smarty will do fine also ......... but ^^ its hard to beat.

Theres a hole thats drilled in the VB to control lockup engagement of the TC. Basically as long as you dont drill the hole out too large - you wont get too hard of a lockup to worry about breaking the flexplate of input. I was at 450-500hp on stock input and flexplate with reasonable amount of abuse ..... nothing stupid but lots of WOT. Held fine.

Think that SBDD clutch is around 650 hp. Intercooler is fine. You really only need something similar to mike. At least to start with if funds are tight. Edge Comp(or old juice) ~ Box $350 used. RV275 or +75 HP injectors - CPP or DAP. ~$350 new/rebuilt. If you want cheaper - then get a powerpuck instead of comp box and go with ~100Hp sticks. Save around $200 more.

Never heard of water pump blowing the plus except on pulling trucks running 5k rpm. They sell block of plates for it. Think for most people on a vp44 - your making power at the 1700-2200 rpm range. As long as your not excessive on boost or timing (hard to do with a VP44) then you should be fine in almost any scenario. Always exceptions .......... cylinder pressure can't be measured so only really can look at drive pressure .......

This ^^^ I could pull my old 5th wheel at any speed I wanted without OD ...... never get over 1200 generally ~900 to 1000 ...... but I had twin turbos and a built tranny. Plus I got around 20 mpg on highway , 15 around city, 12 towing. Its really all about balance and efficiency ........ I picked up MPG going with bigger injectors.