JOHNFAK

Got to do this tomorrow as replacing water pump. So you leave the thermostat OFF and hook back up the drain ? Then fill up radiator with normal water then start ? Or you leave thermostat AND drain unplugged and start - Guess I was just trying to think what happens to the water it just cycles through radiator and straight back out ? Does it go through the block ?

My marine batteries are dead. I have two new auto batteries in storage. I never dry camp or store rv I live in rv so converter is always running and charging. Ok to run regular auto ? Saves me buying new deep cycle Can't see why not

Yeah I just want to see the numbers of towing over 30 psi blowing HG. I don't think generally you'll find any correlation there .... Eg it doesn't generally result in hg failure

Agree. Problem is there are too many variables between trucks, fluids used, flush frequency so forth. So right now - since people are saying that going over 30 PSI whilst towing is bad - then lets collect some numbers on how many people actually saw there headgasket go whilst towing and doing over 30psi. If the HG did go - we can then see if they flush regularly and if the truck is original etc. I have said it before and I suspect that towing has little effect on HG failure as the fueling is pretty much the same (same injectors/chip) as when not towing ........ so cylinder pressures are much the same. Only difference could be people with non wastgated turbos and going well out of the MAP of the turbo. Still - 30-35psi on stock turbo and low fueling whilst towing I dont think should impact HG failure rate anymore than non towing. So point of this is to say based on the numbers - yes its relatively safe to go up to 30/35 psi on stock bolts whilst towing.

Assuming you have a hx35 turbo - i cant see what transmisison you have.There should already be a elbow on it - your just replacing it with the adjustable one from edge. Its screwed into the turbo comp housing and connects to the wastegate.You can also TAP the turbo comp housing - its juts not usually required.If you have a HY35 ..... elbow doesnt work and you need a $4 turnbuckle from lowes and set your defuel point to 35psi.

I think those are going to be variables out of the equation for now. Obviously not flushing the coolant is "probably" going to have impact on the gasket - but then when do you discount it - at how many miles ? So for now - just straight up - did you blow a HG towing over 30psi - whilst towing . If you have 400000 miles on the original OEM gasket and it burst whilst towing - just mention it in the thread that it DID burst but it also had 400k miles.

Well lets get some numbers here..... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5955-Who-Tows-and-hits-over-30-psi-on-stock-headbolts-headgasket

Lets see - open to ANY truck years as long as a CTD

xx2 Id run a tunnel ram before I ran the intake elbow - as that can help spoolup and reduce egt. But its a 50/50 call at $200

What modifications ? Once you get close to 450hp going to have to think about a billet input. So if you dont have it now - get it whilst your dropping for the 3x disk (guess what I DIDNT do :banghead:). 50 psi is probably going to take you close to 450hp as guess - so curious if you can hit that on the hx40. It can be used in twins - but Id sell it and get a s300 super b for that good luck

Is it the normal hx40 or the S-HX40 ? They have different maps. Good thing your turbo is probably going to be limiting factor .......... but you can easily upgrade as the flange is same for most aftermarkets ..... Whos injectors ? You will slip a stock TC after around 350-400 hp. BEst you can do is try, dyno it ....... and see where your at.

How did you pick up 160 HP on a 120HP comp ?? If that was the only difference. Im just not seeing it. Not saying it aint true - but ..... ??? What you think here mike ? I have Juice Hot CTS and 75 hp injectors and twin turbos ...... and can almost guarantee I'm under 400. Not by much. The rest is debatable ........ just depending on who you talk to and what experience they've had. Springs and input shaft for auto I know guys running 500-550 HP on stock. Whether its smart in the long run I dont know - but they have been running a while and NO issues - probably 2-3 guys I can think of right now. Just saying it "generally" takes a lot more than people think to hit 500Hp ..... so throwing Id like to make a SO vp do 650-700hp takes a LOT of coin and work.

You need a copy of the FSM and if your using an aftermarket VB you need their specs.AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 47RE 21 - 661(1) Turn OD switch off.(2) Leave vehicle on hoist and leave Gauge C-3292in place at accumulator port.(3) Move Gauge C-3293-SP over to front servo portfor this test.(4) Have helper start and run engine at 1600 rpmfor this test.(5) Move transmission shift lever two detents rearwardfrom full forward position. This is D range.(6) Read pressures on both gauges as transmissionthrottle lever is gradually moved from full forward tofull rearward position:² Line pressure at accumulator in D range thirdgear, should be 54-60 psi (372-414 kPa) with throttlelever forward and increase as lever is moved rearward.² Front servo pressure in D range third gear,should be within 3 psi (21 kPa) of line pressure up tokickdown point.My understanding on a STOCK VB is you want the line pressure to hold between 50-90psi (higher for modified VB).If line pressure is good you want to check the servo/pistons that help apply the bands.If they are working then adjust the bands to spec.Beyond that - I dont think you can really tell unless you pull it apart.Have you dropped the pan ? Anything in it and what is condition of fluid ? And also have you made sure you have enough fluid.

You need to check the turbo compressor and the outlet going to the intercooler for oil

No. Line pressure of your transmission. Not fuel.

Honestly no idea . Get a gauge on your test port and check line pressures.

375-425 hp... ProbWhich hx40 ?

More pics after wash

Go with some of his house 50-90 hp Don't see issue with using old core bodies as all are pop tested and flow balanced and think vco injectors typically fail in the nozzle itself not the body and only way to alleviate that is go sac

Spool better ?

I just used thread lock blue. But yes you can get boost leak through the bolts so something like a gasket/silcone will help also. I found putting the gasket back in together with the plenum a real PITA. Let us know if you find/have any useful tips on that after your done

Only #1 you can get it off without taking all lines off. IF you dont mind taking lines off - you will find it easier - its tight sliding it in and out which makes getting gasket in place hard work. Yeah once apps and intake and heater off then the bolts for plenum itself (a couple) ........ thats it

Yes http://www.crazycarlsturbos.com/Intake-Gasket-Kit-Intake-Gasket-Kit.htm Take apps/intake off and grid heater ....... Undo injectors Line #1 Slide it back. Put gasket and plenum back on by sliding it back in - its kinda hard - but doable.

Couldn't find this thread after - yeah he has a good one and will sell - not sure if it's the timbo or the old stock one ( as timbo didn't fix) let me know and will give you his details

think i just used a drill into the pvc ... and stepped up until it was real tight. USed a lot of pvc glue to help hold the air - no leaks even with that cowboy aussie hack. but if you in lowes/home depot/ace they can help match the threadsize