JOHNFAK

HeyAll worked fine - thx guys Can I do a 'thread request' between you lot - electronics 101 - and make it a sticky. BE good to not allow to many comments on it .............. really just a info page. Things like how to work with switches, sensors, electronics on your vehicle. Voltage - resistance OHms etc Things that I am not 100% sure about - as a starter include 1) Why does grounding complete the circuit - eg why don't you need to take back to the -ve terminal of battery.2) Open ended wire - how do you tell if its 'HOT' or not3) How to use a multimeter properly - eg it has various voltage and resistance settings , 1V,2V,12V,120V etc4) How to measure voltage of wire if its fully connected and you don't want to cut it ?? 5) Same for resistance etc ? 6) How to tell if their is noise/irregularity in the signal7) How fuses work - with regard to Amps - eg I hooked up a 30AMP between my switch - but would 15A been better ? etc

If the pan was clean (apart from clutch dust) - and assuming the color of the tranny wasn;t too dark/burnt and the linkages are ok I would 1) Check control arm for the shifter in the valve body - again on my 47re it needs to make physical contact internally in order for tranny to engage. I had one that the little metal extension on the shift rod was broken. 2) Disconnect the battery for 30 mins. 3) Check all components that you can see without pulling the Valve Body - eg broken/loose springs etc 4) Tighten the bands as per http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/AT_band_adj.htm 5) Fill up fluid and reconnect batteries and see if any difference Bands could make shifting an issue. Battery/electrical problems I think will normally show up as delayed shifting issues or starting in 3rd. The internal band controls the 'R' shift. Here's a nmote on TPS voltages for reference later - not suggesting thats your issue. But if you have time to check. http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/TPS_adjust.htm Also here is the TV cable adjustment. Again I believe if not correct normally delayed/erratic shifts. http://www.dieselbookmarks.com/bombers/47RE%2024v%20TV%20Cable%20Adjustment.pdf So I would start with 1-5 and make sure you have clean fluid and correct levels and the bands adjusted ......

Not sure on either of those with regard to the check valve/tranny flow. The issue was their after the headwork/injector install and prior to the tranny cooler install.Didn't bypass the heate.Derale 15960 was the part. -8AN and 1/2" fittings. Gonna start out with the easy things. Gonna try disconnecting my edge (I have a weak VP/tap connection) - and fix this.Add some 2 stroke and then add some fuel additive if not fixed. These worked for other people - could be totally different but as a 1 off test don't see any harm.

This guys selling a straight comp for $300 http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-2nd-gen-all-products/319297-several-things-sale-trade-need-sell.html and this guys selling an EZ that you might be able to get ~ $175 http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-2nd-gen-all-products/318665-edge-ez-98-5-00-access-tonneau-cover-longbed.html

Any problems with your linkages ??Basically the metal rods right by the transmission inlet on drivers side that engage the gears .... and there is a spring up there also ........ at least on mine (47re).When you move you shift arm in cab through the gears - does it feel normal or sloppy ? And do all the 'D|P|R|1|2' all line up correctly with the red shift indicator ?

cool thx mangoing to try it today.I wish I had thought abut the auto/on/off - didn 't even cross m mind. But the cooler is tight up behind the transfer case between frame and driveshaft and to get the tubing off in order to get the thermostat on will probably mean I will have cut and replace the whole line - still might do that - but will go with this first.Just wasn't sure if there was a better way to do the on/off. eg tapping into the a/c switched power or anything - but definately simpler is better right now.will let you know.

I replaced my shocks with bilsteins - but they weren't shot. I just thought it would be a better ride. I wouldn't say there was a huge difference - I still liek having them on as its not a huge expense compared to other stuff on the truck - and it is better over the bumps/holes - less of a jar. Don Thuren (and ISX) mentioned to me that I would be better off fixing the backend in these models - not the shocks. But leaf packs are a little expensive - thats the main reason I went with shocks - knowing it may not fix everything. Have you thought of airbags ?? I think Koyote was going to look at this ---- man -- I think that might be the way to go ..... but have to wait till he updates with what he found. Bilstein blue/gold if you not lifted might be a little better, and the rancho's seem to get good reviews. But seriously check out the airbag deal ...... install looked reasonable ...... and cost was cheaper than I thought - and thats cool cause they are adjustable and kinda bit unique :P

ok =- here's where I get into trouble as I don't fully undersatnd this but will give it a shot until you get better adivce horsepower = torque * rpm / 5252 http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/01ISBspecs.html So at the moment you have a 230 HP truck (stock) give or take. Lets say with the baff and an +60HP chip you reach 300HP then at peak HP (2700rpm) you are basicaly 300=x*2700/5252 so torque would be around 583 ft lbs with a small chip ......... and upwards from there. People say you lose 10%-15% of whatever you calculate in the driveline as well - makes sense to me. Anyway - unless your going crazy - with a new built trans as well as an EZ or smary or XZT+ - that would be a nice truck for towing and a little mileage. If you go to a 120-150HP chip - then you really need to trust that transmission and start monitoring EGT's and tranny temps as you dump all that fuel. Again - beyond that (injectors/stacking) you will need new turbo and other stuff I would start off with a secondhand or cheap EZ ..... check jkidd or forums ..........and some GAUGES - I forgot to mention that - more imporatant than all the others almost. Probably pick one up around $200. Try it out for a while .... see how it feels and what you think - worst case - pull it and sell it for $150 and then by a secondhand edge comp/juice for around $300-$400. Here you need to TAP your vp44 in order to get the fuel/power.

Man if I was doing it all over again - I would have followed mikes original advice, and it also depends on what going on with your tranny - if your having a new one or built up etc ?? In order BHAF + outerwears - $80HP Valve Body ..... $100-300 depending if you do it or have one sent etcNew Single Disk TC - I went tripple - but probably overkill for 350HP - $600and a low end chip ..... like Puck, EZ $2004" exhaust (straight if you can) - $100- $400 depending and stopped there - about $1200 for a beefed up tranny and an extra 60-90 HP over stock good for all situations except racing and dumping heaps of fuel if you needed more ...... then get a built tranny and TC in one go - performanceinnovations or revmaxx - $3k + Edge Juice or Quadzilla ~ $400 second hand beyond either of those 2 scenarios and it gets expensive .... new turbo's, big injectors, head studs on TOP of everything else:thumbup2:

yeah - not sure if the injectors require more pressure to 'pop' in order to deliver/atomize the fuel ??? But then - rust running rv275 - not like its +150HP injectors. And also - what happens within the vp44/injector to engine when you move from 'P' to 'D'.I mean - even in 'P' the injectors are fueling right ....... so whay would 'D' make a big difference ....... and especailly to the RPM. Thats the bit that confuses me I guess ......... seems like it has to be injector/fuel related ....... but my guage is 15-17 all the time ...... even at startup/idle .......... then why would it drop 400rpm if it was injector related ?? Sure it would just hard start or idle rough - but not really drop rpm right ?

NoI kinda agree - not 100% sure all the symptons are exactly the same - but there are soime similarities. The only reason I was leading to injectors was it occured straight after having them installed. It definately dropped the RPM when the driveline was engaged (D or R) .... but not to the put of stall and that was with new TC + VB. Now new injectors => it does. When the transfer casse was in neutral like you suggested - shifting from P->D still dropped from say 800rpm down to 600 rpm .... but it never died. I will play with this a few more times to get a bit more accurate feel for it and let you know.

Well - jus twent out and tried it. Definately drew the rpms down much less. Probably 200 rpm instead of 400rpm. Not sure exactly what that says appart from when driveline fully engaged it adds 200rpm load to engine ?

really - crap ? I thought JLWeldings issue was more of a LOPE - I need to check his stuff out again. I thought originally it was the 3x disk TC requiring more pressure on the driveline to move (low stall) - therefore taking more rpm away from the engine - but it never was this bad after all that work. So that leaves Head/valve work ......... and injectors. I'm leaning to injectors - but have no NO idea how that could cause a 400rpm drop during engageing the driveline .......

*bump* Anyone have any more comments ? Is doing that way ok for first approach ?? Don't want to have to cut all my tranny lines to get the thermostat back on until I am somewhere more conducive for working on that (in rv park). So ....1) (+ve) battery-> inline fuse -> first prong on switch in cab -> second prong then continues +ve supply/wire to fan2) negative/ground wire on fan is then just bolted into frame for ground.that work ?

ok - don't think I have seen this one before that I remember. Got my truck back few weeks back with new RV275's and some valve/head work.All good except when I start off in morning it stalls the engine. Basically I start 1st time everytime with 16-17psi. Then I sit for 30 secs @800 rpm and as soon as I engaged 'D' or 'R' (depending on how parked) ... the rpms drop around 400 and the engine stalls. Once the enine is warmed up and running ...... all ok .......... any ideas ???

Here's mikes line for the IAT - its pretty simple. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/iat-sensor/iat-sensor.htm No idea why the engine temp would impact the throttle reponse - sure there are many reasons Unsure if the IAT could cause you to lose that much throttle/fuel ...... but easy to clean

that sucks good to know though

I'm thinking a TC issue or possibly even fluid issue.When did you last service tranny ? What was fluid color like and any debree in pan ?? I generally have o slightly overfill my tranny. I wonder if your tranny fluid has to warm up in order for the line pressure to generate enough to engage the 1st gear.

Ha - no problem man --- well I got her all hooked up. Will post a thread with pics soon. Just did a 250 mile trip and no leaks - so all good. Turns out they sent me 2 parts with barbed fittings - and part of the problem was I didn't understand the difference (plus their instructions still suck !! ha) I was using a NPT with barb (female) against a male AN fitting. There was anotehr fitting that was AN - so I could get a good seal - but they really didn't look much different to me. Anyway - got a fair bit done to the truck this weekend - so will post pics ..... front end totally cleaned up and resprayed and bolted down - looks sweet. And the tranny cooler all done - just gotta fit the 12V switch which I think I know how to do now. Tranny was running 20 degree;s cooler when running on highway just from airflow under teh bed. But main reason I want it is for when I am towing around town not locked up - gets hot quick. thanks man. --- Update to the previous post... Was thinking aboyut this little dilema ..... why don't we do a pass around and get you http://www.amazon.com/Glenayre-AccessLink-II/dp/B00004W4E9/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&s=office-products&qid=1284495972&sr=8-10 HAHAHAHAHAHAHA

thanks guys - didn't think about the other possibilities (on/auto ....... and on/auto/off). I was worried about the lack of control with just having the 180 degree thermostat - I like those other options. Unfortuantley for now that would mean cutting my lines again (its too tight to pull off) and a bit of a process - so for now think I am going to stick with the on/off option and consier revisting those options later. Given that - is what I said with a two prong toggle the way to do it ? Don't quite get mikes fuse/relay deal - only cause I have NEVER hooked up any type of switch before. So for right now - safest/simplest is best. So .... 1) (+ve) battery-> inline fuse -> first prong on switch in cab -> second prong then continues +ve supply/wire to fan2) negative/ground wire on fan is then just bolted into frame for ground. that work ?

Yeah I heard same as W+F - just requires a new harness. Assuming that would address any voltage diff ?? So thats 2+2 - or 50/50 crapshoot ..... puts you right back to where you started think edge will be the answer make sure to post what they said back here !!

ok - here's what I am gonna do I think. Run power from baterry to my two pronged toggle switch in cab one one prong, with a inline fuse inbetween. Then continue power to my fan. Then Take negative/ground from fan and bolt into the frame for ground/complete circuit. Make sense ?? Is that ok ?? I am not going to use the thermostat for 2 main reasons - (1) The parts are a little flimsy and I am sure they will last but the less is better for me - I like the idea of an auto switch with the thermostat but it only turns on at 180 degrees (cold IN line). When I am at 180 degrees on cold line I am 220 on the hot line. I believe from what I have read (not what I know) that ATF starts to degrade at 220+ ... so really I'd like to engage the fan a littler earlier when not locked up. 2) So I am setting my alarm on my edge HOT line sensor to 210. Then with the manual switch - I just flick it on and cool it down until temps back down , or locked up on highway. That way I have both an alarm and a mechanism for turning t off/on whenever I want Let me know if that makes sense and approach ok. Mike - don't quite get that - not because of any reason than I just don't know. So you tapped a 12v fuse similar to the way you tap a fuse for edge (piggy back) ...... and you ran to relay - you mention trigger ? I guess the fuse gives you the power and the relay activates the circuit ? Curious on some basic details of that. thx guys Gonna post two threads soon with some pics - one of my tranny cooler hookup - and the other of my front end detail/paint - both came out pretty good in the end ciao john

ok got it off. With a screw driver there is a little compression/retaining clip behind it. Sucky thing is I think I have to cut this whole section out back to the hose - as the parts/adapters I have with the cooler kit are NPT thread - so I guess they intended it to go straight into the hose and then clamped down. Make sense ?? --- Update to the previous post... OK Got the lines connected, everything tight, and the tranny cooler frame up - will post pics/thread later. Started it all up - and the 1 place I thought it might leak - bone dry. But it has 2 small leaks comming from the adapters they sent me comming from the in/out lines of the cooler. Its real difficult to get to now its mounted (sucks) but going to try and narrow a bit down in the morning, and work out a plan. qq I used normal thread tape when putting together. Is there something else I can use that is better for making sure I get a good seal - that is safe to use in a tranmission line ?? eg Blue loctite or similar or some something else/better ? thanks --- Update to the previous post... should I use something like this for the leak ?? http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/thread_compounds/a_thread_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Temperature_Thread_Sealant.htm Seems the leak is comming between the aluminium cast AN fitting and male NPT that threads onto it (brass). I might try and see if I can get a brass fitting the same as the aluminium one - so I can make a brass-to-brass coupling ....... and then I guess use some permatex thread stuff like above as well ??

How do I decouple the hardline from the softline aout of the cooler. Similar to below (taken off web - not a dodge ram)I have the retaining clip on - but can't seem to get the hardline out. Do I just pull or is there something else ?? :shrug:I am decoupling to install a soft line from my AUX tranny cooler in back - thanks

Hey guys Trying to get my tranny cooler installed this weekend. On my auxilliary cooler - it has 2 wires , about 9 inches each - 1 black and one blue. It just says to connect this to a switched 12V power supply. How do I do this ?? Never have before. I assume I could run 1 wire (blue) +ve terminal and 1 (black) to negative terminal - and it would get power every time the engine started - but I would prefer to activate via switch - ideally something like the existing A/C switch. Is it easy to hook up to the A/C switch somehow so when I turn the A/C or FAN on - it engages the fan on the auxilliary cooler ?? OR seperate switch from o'reilly's/electronics store ?? Need full details - and quite basic details - not overly good at reading wiring diagrams etc thanks guys --- Update to the previous post... Kinda thinking I need to not install the thermostat - as it kicks in at 180 and I might want to start cooling a little lower than that. (As if I am 180 on COLD line where thermostat is - then I am 220+ on HOT line out). So then I am thinking I could use some sort of 12v toggle switch with inline fuse in the cab ? So - can I tap into an existing 12 V wire and then just run the black wire to a ground - or do I need to run the black wire all the way back to the negative terminal ? If I can tap an existing wire - any ideas of best one ? Easiest to locate and splice ? Or should I run it from the bagttery direct ?