Dynamic

Once he gets up into high gear with the converter locked, they have to load the dyno. Then he can start the pull once the dyno is loaded and ready. That's what you see at the end. The actual pull doesn't last very long.

Flexplate to crank: 105 lb/ft

Skyler makes well over 1000 hp on fuel alone...at about 65 psi of boost, on a single turbo (and a relatively small one at that). A well balanced system accomplishes MUCH! Dynomite Diesel for the win...!

Above about a 60mm turbo, you really need to run a stock stall speed converter, especially on a 2nd Gen VP44 application. Stock turbos love about 200 rpm under stock. I run triples on stock input shafts all the time. More often than not, actually. In fact, I don't run, or even recommend a single disc converter in any application.

Single turbo (a very large single turbo) with external wastegate, about 65 psi boost.

Skyler made 1552 hp on this pull. This truck has run a best of 9.765 @ 137.69 mph. He has been running one of my transmissions all this season. Great young man!

Set the WOT 1-2 shift point at 2800-2900 rpm and your TV cable is set. But I definitely wouldn't be driving it with his pressure doing what its doing.

No HP guesses...??

This was in CDA.

I'm not sure if the video came through, but this one's just for fun. This is Skyler Oestrich's (Dynomite Diesel Products) race truck on the chassis dyno at Hunting 4 Horsepower here in North Idaho last Saturday. Any HP guesses?

I see that you found where the screw goes. There are 3 screws that length in the VB, and that was one of them. I would absolutely not drive the truck until you sort that pressure issue out. You will destroy your forward clutch Belleville spring (or any number of other things) in short order at those pressures. Something in there is not right. How far do you have the PR spring wound up? You may be coil binding the PR spring. And I would leave that TV stop alone, as I've said before. I don't think it's doing for you what you think it's doing for you... Those OTC gauges are good quality, FWIW.

No worries. I was just clarifying the reason that a good pan is beneficial. The need has always been there.

Just to be clear, I do not make any mods during a build that weaken the case and make it necessary to have an aluminum pan. The design of the case, right from the factory, makes it beneficial to have some form of aluminum pan to add structure and stiffen the case.

What is the trans temp doing the whole time this is going on?

If your pump will only make 140 psi, you've got much bigger problems.

175 is good for most things a 2nd Gen will be doing. Some guys definitely need more, but that's pretty rare. It's definitely plenty for most towing applications, which is why I set them up that way. Making pressure is a good thing (to a point), as long as you can control the shifts and lockup. If you dropped one of my valve bodies in and it only made 140 at WOT, something would be drastically wrong. I'll let you know the first time it happens!

The boost circuit comes on at the 1-2 shift, so it's on pretty much the whole time. It's good for about 20 psi. Between spring rate and balance signal manipulation, it tops out at about 175 in the HD/Towing VB. I can run it up to about 190 up top by using some 48RE valving.

The HD/Towing VB runs from about 105-175 psi.

Let me know when you're ready, and I'll get one built for you. You'll definitely have more than 150-165 psi, though!

I highly recommend and use ONLY triple disc converters in every Cummins application. You MIGHT be able to talk me into running a single behind, say, a BONE STOCK 12 valve, but only because of the line pressure I run. Beyond that, I will only run a triple. The intermediate shaft would be the last of the 3 shafts I'd be worried about. The stock shaft will put up with pretty much anything most guys are going to throw at it in a 2nd Gen application. Stall speed needs to be match to your turbo setup (and camshaft if you've got an aftermarket). Most stock (or near stock) singles like a little tighter converter; about 200 under stock. Anything over about 62 mm on the compressor size, or ANY compound setup should stick with a stock stall. I wouldn't really recommend anything higher than stock, unless you've got some kind of WAY radical setup. Even DDP's UCC transmission is running a stock stall DPC, behind a nearly 2200 hp setup. Same with Skyler Oestrich's (DDP employee and great customer) 1600 hp, 9 second Cummins truck...stock stall DPC. The only locked shifts I, personally, will endorse are a 3-4 upshift and a 4-3 downshift. (A stock 47RE valve body will not allow a locked 4-3 downshift, FWIW.) Other than that, unless you're racing or something, there's no reason to put your gear train through that kind of abuse, especially a 47RE gear train.

There are a TON of converter builders out there. Most use the same internal parts (usually Sonnax) and front covers. Only a few build their own stators, covers and apply pistons.

I can't tell you the number of brake switches I've had to replace to protect the transmissions I build. It's pretty common on the early 2nd Gens.

The OEM intermediate shaft is pretty strong, really. Of the 3 shafts, it is the last one I'm worried about. Everything has its breaking point, but it's plenty strong for most guys usage, especially when talking about the 2nd Gen trucks.

No. There are only two bands. The intermediate band (based on its function) is also called the front band (based on its position in the transmission). The low/reverse band (function) is also called the rear band (position).

I would say that the most common things I see are a worn out intermediate band and heavy distress to the direct clutch, especially in the 47RE where the factory only gave them 4 discs. The OD clutch does fail from time to time, but I don't see it real often, to be perfectly honest. Now, bear in mind, the majority of transmissions I tear down are still fully functional; guys just want them "beefed up", so I'm seeing things before the end of their life, so to speak. I will also say that in most units that I tear down, I find the bands horribly out of adjustment, especially the intermediate...like, not even close. This wreaks havoc with the 2-3 shift timing, and creates side loads on the servo cover that will wear the pin hole egg-shaped in relatively short order, which, in turn causes a loss of direct clutch pressure, adding to the distress that the direct clutch sees. If you go through the list of equipment that I use in my builds, as well as the mods I, personally, have developed in the valve body (where the blame lies for many of the 47RE's deficiencies), there is a VERY specific reason that I use them and have developed them. Now, there are many mods that are simply industry standard, if you will, and basically just a good idea across the board. Heck, even the "box builder" at Aamco or "Bill's Transmission" (or fill-in-the-blank transmission shop) that blindly installs a "shift kit" in addition to his off-the-shelf rebuild kit will make some of these mods, whether he even knows he's doing it or not. But, that approach falls short in many key areas, and more attention needs to be paid in quite a few areas. Pressure control in the valve body is a BIG one. The Chrysler 4-speed transmissions are quite unique, especially among their fully electronically controlled contemporaries (Ford's E4OD/4R100, 5R110W, GM's Allison 1000, etc.), in that not only is the pressure control 100% mechanical, but it operates using a series of balance signals to control the pressure level to match different situations. Through the manipulation of these balance signals, in addition to careful selection of spring rates and preloads, pressure control can be optimized (or as close as can be seen this side of full electronic control). This has truly been a trial and error process over the years and decades. If you were to tear down one of my valve bodies, or one of Dave Goerend's valve bodies, or one of the late Tony Garcin's valve bodies (or anyone who has gotten in there and really understood how they work and created their own solutions), I can assure you that what you see will be the culmination of hundreds of hours of tracing hydraulic passages, staring at hydraulic diagrams, wondering "how can I get pressure from 'here' to 'there'", and simply trying this and trying that. I guarantee you that we could all tell you a million things that don't work!