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Dynamic last won the day on March 21

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  1. I used Dex 3 with a bottle of Lubegard "Black". It's the fluid I've always preferred in the older transmissions. ATF+4 has a TON of friction modifier in it to deal with converter clutch chatter. This affects shift feel quite a bit. If you build it right, and use the right converter, there won't be any slippage to cause chatter.
  2. Sounds like a power distribution problem somewhere. Not sure why the PCM was condemned, but even if the alternator quit charging altogether, the gauge wouldn't drop to zero. Somewhere in the power distribution system, there's a faulty connection. The transmission can't work with no electrical power.
  3. They make their flex plates in-house. They send the proper bolts with new converters.
  4. I use Goerend flex plates on Stage 3 and higher builds. Either way, get that stock one out of there.
  5. I didn't say not to fix the AC problem, but I'd definitely shunt as much of the remaining AC on the TPS circuit to ground as you can. The electronics in those 2nd Gens were too sensitive to AC ripple even when they were new, and haven't gotten any better in the last 20 years as they have aged.
  6. You have leaking diodes in your alternator. While these mods that you're doing do help the batteries dampen some of that AC noise, you have to fix the source of the noise. I would also put a noise filter on the TPS signal line at the PCM as part of the process.
  7. No, there really is no way to adapt it. The 3rd Gen uses an actual range sensor, which has varying resistance based on position, while the 2nd Gens just used a switch for Park/Neutral. There would also be no reverse lights if a 3rd Gen transmission was installed in a 2nd Gen truck.
  8. Neutral safety switch is different.
  9. My suspicion is that your intermediate band has failed (or the strut or anchor has fallen off), and you don't actually have 2nd gear. This happens often with the 48RE, but the 47 is configured the same way, so it's always a possibility. Guys will feel a late shift out of first gear once you get enough road speed, but they're actually feeling a 1-3 shift because it tried to shift to 2nd earlier, but there was nothing there. Idling at a stop, pull the shift lever from Neutral into Manual Low, and then take off normally. Once you're rolling at about 12-15 mph, bump the shift lever up into Manual 2nd. Does it shift to 2nd?
  10. No. Don't touch the TV stop adjustment. That is set to a specific spec when the valve body is built, and shouldn't be touched (although I see someone Transgo kitted the valve body, so who knows where it's set). It is not a "user serviceable" adjustment. The TV plunger will pop out and contact the TV lever once the truck is running and there is line pressure being generated.
  11. When they added TCC lockup to the mix in 1994, they renamed it the A618, but that's not of much use, because there are a bunch of variations off of that. ALL of the 4 speed automatics had "electronic" overdrive, and the '94-newer had "electronic" converter lockup. (I use the term "electronic" because there is much "electronics" involved. They both use a simple on/off solenoid to engage/disengage. There is no PWM.) 1994 and 1995 used the 47RH (hydraulic governor), and in 1996 they came out with the 47RE (electronic governor). There were a bunch of running changes, but they used the 47RE in the '96-newer 2nd Gen trucks, as well as the early 3rd Gen trucks. Somewhere in mid-2003 model year, they came out with the 48RE, which was used through '07.5 when they released the 6.7 Cummins with the 68RFE (6 speed) behind it. The 46RE's were used in gas (5.2L, 5.6L, etc.) 2nd Gen applications. 3rd Gen trucks with gas engines (4.7, 5.7 Hemi, etc.) had the 5-45RFE (5 speed) transmission. The pans are all the same shape all the way back to the old 727. Show a picture of the OD section. How many wires in the main connector to the transmission?
  12. I'm glad you're getting the shift point dialed in. Now just loosen it a touch, and you should be right there. I'll get that replacement transducer out to you today, hopefully.
  13. Your TV cable is too tight. This has the line pressure too high on your light throttle stuff, as well as your downshifts. Loosen the cable until WOT 1-2 occurs at 2900 rpm. If the cable is out of adjustment (fairly common), you can tweak the bracket down at the transmission. The TV cable setups in these things are wildly inconsistent, so you just use whatever means available to achieve a 2900 rpm WOT 1-2 shift.
  14. A transmission of that caliber is not really all that "built". It's a package that goes through and addresses the glaring shortcomings of the factory setup, but without the billet shafts, servos, etc. It would be the minimum I would recommend doing if you're going to bother doing anything, honestly.
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