Dynamic

Nope, I do all of the building around here. I have help with things like parts and bookkeeping, but all R&D and transmission builds is done by yours truly.

I worked on your transmission just today, Wade! I'm pushing hard to get it shipped by the weekend for you... You know, I have built literally thousands of these transmissions, and I still get excited for guys to get their new transmissions in and going. Love it...!

Yes, typically to SoCal that will cover both ways. We'd get an accurate shipping quote at the time of shipping. Quotes are typically good for 2 weeks.

You need to pull the valve body to replace the OD/TCC solenoids. The rest of that stuff can be changed without pulling it. The 47RE is notorious for breaking the 3-4 accumulator spring. You will likely not know the difference, to be honest. It's certainly not any kind of upgrade. A healthy band with a stock intermediate servo will show roughly 3 threads above the jam nut when properly adjusted.

It depends upon available facilities at his end, but typical residential delivery with a liftgate truck runs about $550 for freight to him, and also his core return back to my shop. If he has a commercial address, and/or a forklift or loading dock, it gets a little cheaper. I handle all shipping arrangements, so it's super easy on the customer's end.

You should call @Dynamic, and he will go over stuff with you. Did you know that Dynamic Transmission was founded in Hillsboro, OR? I started building transmissions for myself (after a couple of decades for building them for other people_ in the little shop behind our house on Jackson School Rd., near Glencoe High School. We still visit that area from time to time.

If you need misc, stuff, you can contact me. I'm not really trying to be in the "parts" business, but I deal with that stuff all day long, every single day. I can probably get it for you, or point you in the right direction.

That video show a GM conversion. They're OK, but not worth the extra money, in my opinion. The Borg HD will do everything that the GM conversion will do, but at 1/3 the price. Besides, the GM conversions use the late model Delphi EPC solenoid out of the 4L60E. I used to run into a ton of those things that would stick in the closed position when they got some miles on them. Many a 4L60E got to come across my bench due to a stuck solenoid (no line pressure rise). While the GM solenoid doesn't control line pressure in the Dodge conversion, it's still the same solenoid, and I've seen them stick in the Dodges, too (no governor pressure rise; no upshift). I'm just not a big fan of them, especially at 3 times the price of a part that has had excellent service, even a very high line pressures. As for Cascade, if you can get parts from them, count yourselves lucky. I used to spend thousands of dollars buying parts from him. The only problem was that he wanted the tens of thousands of dollars in business that I spent elsewhere. Every time I would talk to him (back when they actually had a phone number and you could talk to someone), he was always trying to convince me that I should bring all of my business to him, and most annoyingly that the Exedy frictions that he carried were superior to everything else on the market (because they were OEM in Honda applications, he would say). I would always politely decline because I have 2 local warehouses that deliver the parts I use (not Exedy, BTW...) twice a day, and that buying from him and waiting 2 days for UPS to bring my order made little business sense. He had some good prices on certain OEM stuff (48RE OD housings, 48RE direct drums, etc.), and that's what I would buy. Over time, I found other sources for that stuff, and I quit using him altogether. Last year, I had a BMW transmission (one of my personal cars) apart, and needed some frictions for it. Lo and behold, he showed them in stock, and at a good price. I was headed off to SEMA, so I'd be gone for a week, so I ordered them from him. The order was placed online (due to them not having a phone number anymore), and off I went to SEMA for the week. When I got back, I went to put the BMW back together and...no frictions. They showed that they had not even shipped; in fact they showed no activity at all on my account. I checked my credit card and sure enough, they had pulled the funds from me, but no parts. I contacted them (email, no phone...) to hurry this along as I now had a BMW X5 tying up my lift. No response...ever. I eventually had to contest the charges on my card, and get my parts elsewhere. Apparently the fraction of my business that I did with him was not enough, and he kicked me to the curb. Quite disappointing, I would say... Your mileage may vary...

What kind of parts are you trying to order? That would be a determining factor for where you would order it from.

P1740 is a performance code, meaning that the PCM is commanding something, and then not seeing the desired results. You don't mention any circuit codes, so I'm guessing that the PCM is happy with the integrity of the circuit electrically. In light of that, I would suspect that your converter clutch has failed. It is not at all uncommon.

The 47RE and 48RE (with a few random exceptions) use the same OD brake stack. Some 48's came with 6 discs in the OD brake and single sided discs in the OD direct. Most did not. If that's a Goerend billet 3.8 lever, you're in good shape. I typically end up with a .083" 3-tab thrust washer, and a .193" intermediate shaft sleeve, and then whatever washer you need behind the pump to get your end play where you need it; usually a .084" or a .102". If I need more than that, as is often the case, I use Superior shims between the 3-tab and the input shaft. They make them in in .015" and .025". I don't like to go thicker than .102" behind the pump because it moves the sealing rings on the input shaft and stator support farther out of their bores than I like. I'm glad Dave (Goerend) came out with a supplement to fix some of the misinformation in the ATSG. I have thought of doing that as well, but never had time.

Yeah, you can definitely make a case for replacing the wavy snap ring after an OD brake failure if you're staying with a 5 disc stack back there. The rest of them will put up with quite a bit more than they'll ever see. What band lever are you using in there? Is that a 5.0 48RE lever? Make sure to get your total end play at about .020". What valve body mods do you have planned?

Oh boy... Yeah, you really don't need to replace all those snap rings. The only one that is a "must replace" is the one for the OD direct. Those break all the time. It's also not often that I see a Belleville break like that, but it certainly is possible (obviously).

Losing the OD brake clutch is a pretty common failure, especially in the 47RE. They just don't make enough pressure for that clutch to live a happy life. You replaced ALL of the snap rings?

Band adjustment is arguably the most important maintenance item you can perform on your transmission. Why are you scared to adjust your bands? There are very few things that are simpler than adjusting bands.

The transducers are different between the two years. You'll have to put the right transducer in it.

Yes, this. The 47RE case is actually quite flimsy. An aluminum pan stiffens the case considerably. The quote from Goerend's website is referencing direct impact from rocks or whatever. Just for reference, the 350 used a detent ("kickdown") cable, the 400 used no cable at all (electric), and the 700R4 used an actual TV cable.

The only time the TV lever stop is doing anything at all is when the throttle is at minimum; ie. foot off the accelerator. You should not be getting downshifts with your foot off of the throttle, unless you're talking about rolling to a stop. But like I said before, the TV lever stop is not intended to be an adjustment that can be fine tuned. You just set it when setting up the valve body, and leave it alone. Any "specs" for setting the TV lever stop will likely be difficult to obtain. Neither the 350 or 400 used a TV cable, so there is no correlation there whatsoever. The 700R4 used a TV cable, but the setting procedure is completely different.

In my experience and opinion, the main benefit of an aluminum pan is to strengthen the case.

Goerend recommends Dex III and Lubegard "Black" with their stuff as well. The reason for running ATF+4 is because of the slipping, chattering single disc converters. But if you've got a decent multi-disc converter, and some pressure behind it, you can run Dex III, which is cheaper and gives better feeling shifts.

If you're shuddering when leaving from a stop, your forward clutch is slipping, and the converter clutch is not in the picture all. The converter clutch is what the ATF+4 is needed for. No type of fluid will fix that a dead forward clutch. You will have a better feeling transmission with Dex III (that's why myself, and many other builders recommend it), but I wouldn't run Dex III with a single disc converter, stock or otherwise.

If you're at 2800 on your WOT 1-2 shift, and it feels good, then leave it alone. 3K for the WOT 2-3 is about right as well. I'd leave it alone, but definitely adjust your bands if you haven't done so already. Assuming that your transmission is stock, I'd run the front band at 2 turns out, and the rear band at 3 turns out. Don't be messing with the TV lever stop. That's not an adjustment that needs to be messed with except for when setting up the valve body. Yes, I do have specs that I use, but it depends entirely upon the application.

If your valve body is stock, you may have trouble getting it to shift at 2800-3000. They often don't make enough TV pressure to hold the shifts that late.

I have used a ton of Goerend pans. Top shelf stuff. I always use a fiber gasket like the one that Goerend sends with any aluminum pan, and every build that goes out of here has an aluminum pan on it. Don't even think of using RTV on the pan gasket (or anywhere else on the transmission). Torque all of the pan bolts to spec. I run them at 12 lb/ft. One of the main reasons for using an aluminum pan is to add rigidity to the case as these things have literally zero case structure on the bottom. If you're not properly torquing the pan, that benefit can be called into question. Bear in mind that they will probably loosen up after a few drive cycles as the fiber compresses. Just hit them with a torque wrench one more time after a few days. As mentioned, pretty much every temp sending unit I've ever had my hands on is 1/8" NPT. You'll need to stick with ATF +4 if you have a single disc converter (stock or otherwise), or your converter clutch will chatter as it slips. With a good triple and valve body, you can switch to Dex III with some Lubegard "Black" added to it.

If coolant temp flowing through the heat exchanger is higher than the ATF flowing through the heat exchanger, then yes, there will be a heating effect on the fluid. But the designed purpose of the heat exchanger is to cool the 260-280 degree fluid that comes out of the converter at times quickly and efficiently down to (or near to) the temperature of the coolant. A fluid-to-fluid heat exchange is very efficient, but obviously you're limited as to how much you can cool something by the temperature of your coolant. With the 3rd Gen guys, who are removing their heat exchangers quite a bit, I have found the Derale 15870 fan-cooled setup plumbed into the return to the transmission to be a suitable replacement, and it does a great job of alleviating the temperature problems that they inevitably experience when removing the exchanger from the system.