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Irie808

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    Kamuela, Hawaii

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  1. The screen is removed in this photo, it came out with the pump , this is just the rust left in the bottom which looks like it has come from my filler neck. I'd say the vent tube side in particular as it had a couple pin holes in it and some gnarly rust. Now that i think about, it is curious how its all sitting inside the basket still. The bottom of the basket has some fine holes in it acting as a screen itself, not letting anything back out I guess. Tank it self was not as bad just some bigger rusts. If they just made the filler neck out of plastic like the tank...no rust When you cut the screens out does that involve doing a draw straw < to frame mount primary filter < to frame mount lift pump? Or would you still be using anything left in the tank? Good idea to save the basket minus the pump encase I want to convert a basket for a draw straw right? Or If down the road i get to that situation would I be buying a new basket (sending unit?) Guess good to save everything if you got the room right
  2. Not related to the cold and gelling problem but I had mentioned how bad the inside of my in-tank lift pump screens were so I thought I'd share a picture I took after prying the pump out of the way...
  3. Well just to report back the size i ended up with was a 3/8 thread and 9/16 hex head with a couple lock washers. Quite different than the M14 specked out in that image or what im finding at ACE is not the same Got it all locked up and tight down there now
  4. Yes It has shown to be consistent that after battery disconnect the wait to start light will be delayed till after all the other lights and chimes stop then it will come on for 2 sec < then you can start. After a week or so of this, there is no wait to start light at all. Just went out and tried to start like a gasser and it did not want to start, although it probably would have if i kept on it. Just wait 2-3 sec after key turn and it fires right up with no wait to start. It has been like this for years and does not bother me, just a curious one to note I guess.
  5. Dont know how I missed that old thread brought back about ECM and Wait to start just a few posts below. Still not sure thats my issue as my wait to start does not come on at all now, but truck starts fine. If i tried to start it prior the Light coming on (when it was working) it would not start.
  6. This seems to be consistent for my truck. I usually do not get a wait to start light on the dash...i just wait for the chimes and other lights to go out and turn the key, starts right up. What I have noticed over the years of ownership is that after the batteries are disconnected the will function again.(I usually notice after trying to start my normal way and just get cranking) I now have a FP gauge which gives me other details on this light. When it does function the light will come on two seconds or so after all the other lights and bells have gone off. When the light does come on I notice the FP gauge spikes up and then returns to zero as if the pump is turned on for a second. None of this is a problem, rather a curiosity as to if this is normal happening for these trucks or what causes the light to stop coming on. (I can actually start the vehicle sooner this way which is nice) When the light does NOT come on as it is doing now I do NOT notice the FP gauge spike before starting... Again, no problem just odd...perhaps indicative of something else?? Anyone else ever notice this?
  7. Thanks Haggar! I would not have been able to navigate that manual to find that bolt size. I have questions and not sure if i should be sifting through the forums to find a similar post to attach them to or start a new one. Think I'll be starting a few new threads soon, thanks again
  8. I notice I seem to be missing the 2 bolts that connect my transfer case to the rubber bumper/frame cross member. There are 2 Nuts welded on to the rubber bumper bracket. Any help figuring out the size of these bolts so I could just get something at the hardware store? Thanks (PS, starting new threads for this kind of questions is fine? just put in correct area i figure?)
  9. I think getting inside your tank and giving it a good cleaning will make your truck very happy in general. I would like to know what you find in there. I have no experience with the cold where I live but was thinking you could get creative with some forms of insulation for the fuel lines or even around the tank. I hope you can just drop in the new pump and all the connections are right there. Good luck buddy, let us know how it goes.
  10. I have noticed used vehicle prices rise steadily too.Besides becoming rare, I think the older vehicles seem to go up in value because a new truck will cost you 50k give or take! A new-used will be 30k! All of a sudden that 20 year old truck looks good for 10k...Keep a few K on the side for upgrades and Good to go. What do 2nd gens with 200k miles go for in your neck of the woods? https://honolulu.craigslist.org/big/cto/d/tyro-2002-dodge-2nd-generation-cummings/6935504928.html Not sure what this guy is smoking! Drugs are bad! 25k obo! Thats extreme, but you will see most of them above 10k with high miles and beat up here Nice ones will be asking 15k i guess. Bought mine for 7K over 8 years ago with 111k mi. Got a great deal as brakes were fried and scary shaky to drive and no one wants an automatic.
  11. Since we are talking dash, one idea a buddy tried and seems to work was to do fiberglass mesh and some resin to strengthen it before it crumbles then just run a dash cover, we did a small spot on my dash when he was working on his boat...seems to hold up so far
  12. Did a FP gauge recently and I used "Fuse taps" for the dimmer and the 12v ignition. Could not be easier. I used the fuses in the drivers side door on the dash. Use multi-meter to find the fuses you need,12v ignition and lights. I used the cigarette lighter for 12v and illumination for the lights. (my gauge specifically said NOT to connect to the actual dimmer switch. Connect to a source that turns on when lights are turned on and my gauge dims 30% is how mine works) Glowshifts instruction videos are informative for this process.. https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/mini-expandable-circuit-4-amp-fuse/ There is a video on this page
  13. From Georend website FAQ: 5. The sides of our pan are NOT ribbed for strength. If you hit a rock or something else we want the transmission pan to break away. Pans that are excessively beefed up on the side may not break and you may break your transmission case instead. It is much easier and cheaper to replace the transmission pan than the transmission case. After looking at kits and kits and trying to see what parts can be changed rather easily or are most important, it would seem the governor pressure solenoid is the main component to improve feel of transmission. In some kits you may get a speed sensor, 8pin dual pack shift sensor, governor pressure sensor, accumulator spring. My reading leads me to believe most other parts might throw a code or have a failure moment the would be noticeable, whereas the pressure solenoid is a part that can function but might not be strong enough to do its job well. What are opinions on the Borg Warner governor pressure solenoid VS that GM retrofit part? What is a good reusable trans pan gasket?
  14. This kit has many parts to it. I wonder if I can install them all easily... I wonder if it ain't broken don't fix it... I wonder if it could run much better with a couple new do-hickies installed... Assuming my transmission is still happy at 193k miles. (Still curious about the low throttle 1-2 stumble, after a drive yesterday, WIP) What are opinions on what to change/upgrade at my next service? Any schooling and elaboration on how these effect my transmission is most welcome. Also as i browse, I see mentioning of some things being easier vs harder to get to in there. $103 for georend pan to ship to Hawaii...$334 total Is it worth it? (cant find much else for much cheaper at that quality) I can get a stock one with a drain plug for $33 shipped...tempting (assuming trans pans main benefit is cooling maybe there's a better $ way to cool it.? Maybe get a Temp. bung welded on it..) I mean at this point I dont tow, just a DD. I ramble... Irie
  15. Glad the gauge i just bought didn't implode but yea i had same readings 4psi idle and 0 at little throttle. I could take a picture of the rust enveloped lift pump but i am kinda embarrassed. Jk I should to show wtf is in tanks...tomorrow
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