sleezy

Thanks guys! Looks like it's super easy to get to, right behind the driver knee pad. I'm thinking I probably do not have the high line CTM, because my truck has none of the options listed by Mike above. If I have the base CTM I'll call it a day and give up on steering wheel controls. If I have the high line I guess I'll start visiting Pick n Pulls for a wheel and the 2nd harness section.

Thank you, @IBMobile Is there a way to tell when CTM I have without ripping the dash apart?

Thanks, Mike! This is from Crutchfield, and I trust those guys, so I'm confident that if I can get the signal to the deck, I can use it with my stereo: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541SWICP2/PAC-SWI-CP2-Steering-Wheel-Control-Adapter.html I don't know which CTM my truck has. I have power heated mirrors, but not heated seats, overhead computer, or keyless entry. Maybe there's just no good way to add steering controls to my truck? It sounds like if I upgrade the steering wheel, the signals will be carried over the same bus as the cruise control. But even if I have the High Line CTM (or maybe I can upgrade the CTM, I have seen threads on that), I still don't think I have the harness/plug that goes from the CTM to the stereo.

I come back to this every so often and I've never found an answer online. I think @Mopar1973Man will probably know off the top of his head, though! I have a 2001 SLT that did not come with the steering wheel audio controls. I really want them. I know I'd need to buy a wheel with the buttons, that's doable. I'm sure I'd need a different clock spring, that's simple. But I don't know if the existing harness would support the extra input signals? I've had my stereo out several times (and have installed several different stereos over the years) and I don't think I've ever seen an extra plug for the controls, which is why I'm thinking my existing harness wouldn't support what I want to do. Maybe there is a plug back there somewhere that I've just never noticed? I know I'd need a module to translate the signals to something my stereo can handle, but Crutchfield sells those, so that's not a problem.

For me it's not the multi-function switch because I replaced that and no change in wiper operation. My delay and speed settings work just fine, the only thing is if I turn it off mid-wipe the wipers stop right where they are (and they're slow when cold). What's funny is after a couple wipes they speed up a lot - it's just the first wipe or two where I'm like "come on little fella, you can do it". When I run the washer I have to remember to also put it on intermittent because otherwise it'll do a couple wipes but then stop halfway up the window. With int. setting it parks just fine after washing and then I turn off the wipers the rest of the way. Guess it's a new motor for me -- glad it's such an easy fix!

This is good to know. My wipers have been slow for years (and really slow when they're cold) so I should probably get around to this. Do you access everything through the cowl with the hood lowered? Maybe that black plastic piece pops off and everything is right there? Somewhat related: If I turn my wiper switch all the way off my wipers stop right where they're at. Nifty if I want to stop them at the top so I can grab a pine needle or break up some ice, but usually annoying. Any chance replacing the motor would fix that? I've always figured there's probably some bad connection somewhere that feeds power to the wipers to let them finish their wipe after the switch is off, but I've never tried to track it down. I did replace the multifunction switch, which fixed my high beams but not the wiper issue.

It probably is something to do with that metal band. Like if you put it on a truck where the pedal sits a little lower then the brake lights stay on because it's been "calibrated" for a taller pedal (similar to what Tractorman experienced). Obviously they can't recommend taking a component apart, especially on a safety device. That big warning makes sure that it's not their fault if you mess with it and it stops working.

I've always wondered about that as well. The "DO NOT REINSTALL" warning is molded into the entire side of the switch, but I've never understood (or explored) what would prevent it from working just fine if reinstalled. Always figured it was just a liability thing. I also have no memory of whether I replaced or reused after replacing my booster 10 years ago. But my brake lights work fine.

I think that's probably right. However, the alternating yellow/white is a far cry more visible than the factory dim yellow / bright yellow. Maybe some rules got changed for new vehicles and the new bulbs are in line with them.

I agree. I was disappointed at first. But I got over it. It is kind of cool that it behaves like the new cars.

For what it's worth, the new switchback bulbs from SBL no longer alternate white/amber when blinkering. I had that style and one of the bulbs partially failed (after many years) so I replaced them and the new ones turn off the white altogether when the blinker is on. So they're white as corner markers, and then yellow/off when that side's blinker is activated. When the blinker is cancelled the white turns back on steady. I assume they made this change to be in line with modern vehicles that behave this way from the factory.

What's the advantage of not lighting up the tail lights?

I have something like that. Good to keep in mind. Also good to know. Ok, new dash is officially on my "to do" list. Behind the rest of my interior rehab, front bumper lights/refurb, airbags w/ onboard air, and probably some other stuff I'm not thinking of at the moment...

I just looked at Geno's install writeup, and it's kind of scared me off. Remove the windshield to get to screws under the dash? https://blog.genosgarage.com/wordpress1/2016/03/98-02-dodge-ram-dash-replacement/

-sigh- all right, I'll add it to the list, I guess... It's a Cummins... how would you ever know if there are rattles in the dash?

Haven't gotten that far yet. To install the lights the bumper has to come off and apart to replace the plastic inserts that they sit in. And while the bumper is apart I'm going to have my buddy powder coat the steel in black. I'm hoping to get this done in the next few weeks. The interior project has actually been a pretty major overhaul and I want to wrap it up first: - Replacing every single dash, gauge, indicator, etc, bulb with LEDs - Installed new double-din stereo with Android Auto. Had to trim out the sub dash to make the larger head unit fit. New custom (and not broken) dash bezel for the larger unit. - Installed a backup camera in the tailgate bezel looking down at the hitch so I can hook up solo in one shot every time. - Swapped the top cigarette lighter for a USB port for Android Auto. Looks factory. - Replaced driver seat cushion foam. - Relocating a couple switches and installing a couple new switches for future on board air and air bags. (And exhaust brake, hopefully.) It's been a lot to take on a couple hours at a time as time allows and parts arrive.

Switch and relay arrived today. Got power to the connector. Completely plug and play.

That occurred to me. So did that. Yeah, where is everybody? I don't mind at all spending ~$100 to replace 20 year old rubber with braided SS, it's a no brainer. But beyond that I don't wanna spend the money and wrench time tossing parts at it at random.

Mine is proportional. It fades off as I come to a stop and once completely stopped for a second or two it grabs hard to hold the trailer until I let go of the brakes. It's smart but in this case is working against me. This is my controller: https://www.tekonsha.com/product/90195_trailer-brake-control-proportional

Yeah the only time it's an issue is if I'm too quick letting off the clutch after letting off the brake. Typically it's if I'm starting out on an uphill. And again, ONLY if I'm towing with electric brakes, which my new 33' toy hauler has. And they're new and very grabby and it's a jolt when it happens. Definitely not my problem. It's just the stupid tail light delay that causes the trailer brakes to stay on longer than I want. Brakes themselves perform perfect.

That makes sense. Now that I'm thinking about it, I don't love that my stopping is relying on 20 year old rubber hoses, so I'm going to take care of that first and if the delay is still there I'll look at the hydroboost. @Silverwolf2691 did you say that you have the same thing going on, where your brake lights stay on for a bit after releasing the pedal?

Ah ha, brake lines make sense. If the rubber gets swollen it could restrict fluid travelling back up. Sounds like a good place to start. I'm not sure why it would be hydroboost? Wouldn't a failing booster make it harder to press the brakes and have no affect on releasing them? Maybe this? https://www.sstubes.com/collections/complete-brake-hose-kit/products/hsk0050ss-97-01-dodge-ram-4wd-with-rear-drum-complete-brake-hose-kit-3-pcs-braided-stainless

So here's a weird one (or maybe it's not) and if it's been covered already, please point me to the thread because I couldn't find it. For years my brake pedal has been slow to return to full "off" position. Whether the truck is running or off makes no difference, if I push on the pedal even a little bit, it'll take a second or two for the brake lights to turn back off. It doesn't affect the way the truck drives at all, the brakes definitely release, it's just that last tiny bit to where it catches the brake light switch. The only time it matters is when I'm pulling a trailer with electric brakes. I have to remember to let the brake off a second or two before starting to let the clutch out or else the trailer fights back and it's a violent take off. I've not done one bit of troubleshooting. For the most part I remember the delay when towing. But I curious: what's worn out? At 200k this truck has only ever had pads/rotors/drums/shoes (and the Chevy 3500 rear cylinder upgrade) so I'll have no trouble believing any brake component is worn out. Same time, I don't wanna just throw parts at it for no reason. It's not the switch, if I press in the pedal just a bit and release I can make the brake lights go on and off as fast as I want. It's only if the brakes have engaged at all. I'm definitely due for a brake fluid exchange, but I can't imagine old fluid could be causing it. Any ideas?

Yeah I have a pack of good weather proof connectors like that. As much as I love trips to salvage yards I've got everything on hand to make a wiring harness, even the ribbed plastic wire loom. Thank you everybody! A bunch of parts are still on their way but I think I have everything ordered to finally have factory fog lights like I've always pined for. I don't know when I'll get the time to tear down the front bumper but I'll at least be able to confirm power is getting to that front connector soon. It's funny how excited I am for something so simple given all the other bigger, more impactful, projects I've completed over the years on this truck. I've just always wanted those factory fogs and it's always been more trouble than it's worth. Finally just doing it with y'all's help.

But how would I ever match up the shape of a 20 year old plug? For some reason I can't seem to put up pictures on this thread anymore, but it's a male plug with two flat pins, plus 20 years of road grime buildup. In general, I don't like cutting harnesses, but in this case I don't think it's a big deal. I've got weather proof connectors laying around, I'll just use one of them, splice back behind the existing wire loom, and heat shrink before re-applying the loom. It'll be better than new.