sleezy

Yes, now that I've seen your setup I think that's right. Switch and relay are on their way, and I just ordered the connectors for the back of the bulbs. No idea what the "truck side" connector might be, but I'll just cut it off and use my own. Making my own harness will take 10 minutes. It's crazy how much time I've spent searching the internet for this answer and apparently we are now the first people on earth to have solved it.

Thank you, @dripley! Yes, that is the same connector I have, and that picture makes it clear that the fog lights are simply wired in parallel of of it. That's exactly what I needed to know!

Gotcha, well that would make sense then. Would be great for it to be that simple. Any chance anyone on this thread has factory fogs and could check to see what exactly runs between that connector under the radiator and each light?

Yes I do have the plug at the core support, but it's only a single plug in the middle of the truck. Obviously a harness needs to go from that to the two lights. From what I've been able to find, that harness isn't just a parallel connection to the two bulbs, it looks like there's more to it than that from the drawing I found above. I guess if I run LED bulbs it probably won't matter if there's supposed to be another relay but those three extra wires really have me confused.

"Starting to crack badly?" Your dash must be in way better shape than mine!

Wow the dash looks great. I've been happy with my dash mat for years, but if it's an easy swap I might be tempted. I always assumed there would be hidden fasteners or a bunch of other stuff would have to come out first.

I think I have everything either in hand or on its way. Except for the harness that goes from the connector behind the front bumper to each fog light. Part 8 on page 28 in here: https://mopar1973man.com/external-media/pdf/2000Ramparts.pdf It's discontinued everywhere I've seen online, which should be fine because I can just make my own harness, but maybe someone could help me with a couple things: - How do I pin out the relay? - Why do I need a relay in the first place, since there's already one under the hood? - What is the second pigtail for? What would those three wires connect to? Perhaps it's for early 2nd Gen trucks or maybe Sport trucks and I don't need to worry about it? If it connects to the battery, wouldn't it be just one wire? Thanks, guys.

I guess I could have done that before ordering a new one from Rockauto. It's not aftermarket, I pulled it from a truck in a Pick-n-Pull. I did play with both switches and my original switch definitely has one extra detent spot at the top vs the one I salvaged. Turned out a brand new switch from RA was only $30 before shipping, so it's on it's way. There were options for with and without fog and with and without cargo, so I guess it's a thing. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,electrical-switch+&+relay,headlamp+switch,4472

This is what the light in my cubby (in front of the shifter, where the cup holders are for the auto trucks). It looks like it should just pop down. I guess the truck I spent some time with at the bone yard was an auto, so I must have been thinking of only the ashtray light. I don't need a light in there anyway. Nice! I've got some of those laying around from other LED projects. Whoa, I just realized that the switch I picked up doesn't have the 'cargo' position... dang. I guess the truck I pulled it from had a brake light only and no cargo lights? Guess I'll have to drop the $60 at rockauto.com for a new switch with fog and cargo. Dang.

Yep, ordered from SBL a couple days ago! Got LEDs for my cluster lights, pillar gauges, headlight switch, HVAC controls. Dome and map lights I did years ago, as well as everything exterior. I'm going to leave the ash tray and cubby in front of the shifter alone since there's no good way to get to them without taking the dash board ALL THE WAY APART. I just realized I forgot the glove box

Thanks for the clarification, IBMobile. Dripley, that's the kind of thing I like to hear. I'm hoping it's the same for me. Silverwolf, sorry, I should have been more clear. That's my original headlight switch still hooked up, and the empty bulb socked is directly behind where the foglight indicator is on my replacement switch with fog light pull out: Michael, always great to hear from you! I've spent many hours trying to figure out what my end game will be for overall front lighting. Currently I have reflector housings that I like the look of, but because they're reflectors I've not been able to find a set of LED bulbs that don't make me feel guilty because I might be dazzling oncoming traffic. So for now I stuck some halogens back in there and luckily I barely ever drive my truck at night. I think ultimately I'll end up with projector housings. I've read Me78569's "Better Headlights" thread and I may go that route. I emailed these guys but they never got back to me, which isn't encouraging: https://thehidfactory.com/product/dodge-ram-94-01-1500-2500-pre-built-retrofitted-led-projector-headlight-assembly-w-harness/. I'll probably put some driving or flood lights in the square holes just inboard of the fog lights on a dedicated switch so that I can make it daytime in front of me when I want to. For now, I've always wished I had factory fog lights, ever since my dad bought this truck brand new. So that's what I'm working toward. It's more about the satisfaction of doing it than anything else. Other upgrades are certainly going to happen as well. I've been running switchback bulbs in my corners for years and I love em. A while back several of the diodes on one bulb failed, so I bought a replacement set. These new bulbs turn off the white entirely when the blinker comes on, so it alternates between yellow/off instead of yellow/white with the blinker. It's more modern, since all new cars do that, but I do miss the alternating yellow/white. Once I'm done with my dashboard and driver seat project I'm going to take my front bumper off to install the larger-hole fog light inserts and fog lights, and while I'm at it I'm going to powder coat both bumpers black (to get rid of the last of the chrome) and fix the busted tabs to get rid of the saggy plastic.

I know this has been discussed at length, and believe me, I've been through (I think) all the threads on this on multiple sites and just can't seem to get a bead on exactly what's going on with the non-factory-foglight trucks' wiring. I'm in the middle of a pretty extensive interior rehab and figured it's time to finally dive in. I have a 2001 (manual trans, I saw one guy claim that matters?) without factory fogs. I've picked up factory housings/brackets, bumper inserts, and a fog light headlight switch. I do have the harness down by the front bumper. I pulled the headlight switch today, and it looks like the harness runs to the dash too. It also looks like it's plugged into the switch?? Maybe it was just easier to have one housing for both switch types? What's funny is the bulb socket (that I assume is the fog light indicator) is empty. Can anyone confirm whether that two wire plug is in fact for the fog lights? I think it must be because the back of my old switch is identical to the back of my new switch with the fog light pull out. I'm hoping that means I can just plug in a fuse and probably a relay and get power to the harness at the bumper? Just so it's out there: yes I know I can install a toggle switch. I already have lots of toggle switches throughout the cab. What I'm going for here is factory fog lights with the factory switch.

No check engine light. Only when I started the truck up with the board disconnected from the harness. I was weirded out for a few seconds before I realized I'd left the board on the work bench :doh:

There is plenty of space behind the switch, although it is possible there's a wire pressing against it from being coiled up in that same space. First thing I'll do is take the switch down and re-try each setting with the truck idling. On 6 cylinder the IAT is right at 30*. When I switch it to 3 cylinder it starts bouncing up and down between 160ish and 180ish. When I turn the switch off, it stabilizes, last night at 112* at idle. Oh, and on MPG mode IAT is steady at 145*

Gotcha, that makes sense. I'll check the resistance. Do you mean with the extra cat5 from what I used, or to expose my soldering connections and go from point to point there? Actually, I guess I'll do one then the other...

Ok, I'll check that first. Probably tomorrow. Does 6cyl mode fool water temp?

Colorado, we have a problem... Using my ScanGauge, I verified that the switch was working perfectly with the wire run into the cab, holding the board in my hand. After adding a few feet of stranded cat5 and hooking everything back up, it's acting weird. MPG still works fine (145* intake), 6cyl I think is working fine (123* water temp, 30* intake), but 3cyl stops altering the water temp and the intake temp starts bouncing around between 150* and 181*. Turning it off showed intake temp of 112* This was all idling at operating temp. I soldered all of the connections carefully, so I really doubt I have any bad connections, and there't no way it's shorted to itself. Could the extra length of cable have thrown the 3 cylinder mode off? Or is it more likely I damaged the board somehow? I never dropped it or forced anything though. There was a couple feet of extra wire once all was done and in place, so that's coiled up loosely behind the board where the computer would go. Maybe it's interfering with itself?

Actually there's a red pin now less than an hour away! I'll reach out to that guy! Thanks Nick!!

Thanks for looking out! Thing is, I simply don't need a Smarty. I may as well pay the $90 at the dealer, because it's the only time I'd ever use it. $400 is a lot to spend on something that's going to sit around not being used. Nick started a map last year on CF where people drop pins on their location, with different colors representing whether they've got tools, shop space, or a Smarty. No Smartys near me last I checked.

Yeah, we're big on night skiing out here. But the snow out your way is sooo nice. Oh, I was thinking you were in Vancouver also. Yeah I don't think I'll make that drive for a $90 dealer visit. I don't know of anybody remotely near me who has a Smarty either. I can't justify buying one just for the high idle. Guess I'll start visiting the stealerships.

Which dealer did you go to? What'd they charge? I sure hope so. After a lot of back and forth the wife and I bought Fusion Passes again, even though last year was so bad. At least it can't be any worse this year, right?

We'll see how often I end up using the high idle once I actually get it enabled in the ECM. (You don't have a Smarty by any chance, do you?) I just meant it's not a big rush. I don't think we hit 32 out here once last winter. Hopefully this year though! We need that snow pack!

Finally got the write-up posted on CF. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/1841457-new-high-idle-switch-available.html#post21191873 Let me know if I should change anything or add anything. I do have pictures of my ScanGauge showing the IAT and ECT reading as designed, but I figured the post was getting long. I can throw em up if somebody asks. Nick, I think your videos are the way to go over typing everything out and getting the stupid pictures to all match up!

I guess I'll let you know . . . I think I'm going to make the new wire go down to the pedals; much easier to run just wire than trying to get that connector fished up through the A pillar.