WesHawkins

I’ve had a PakBrake system on my 2000 for several years now. Tow a 7700lb TT and it’s work great.

Thanks.

This truck is just stock.

Ya, the HPOP.

It's a pump for a friends 97 Ford with the 7.3. It's all stock.

Thanks. That's my opinion also but it helps convince others when more people hold the same opinion.

I have a relatively generic question. I posted another on the Ford section with a little more specifics. Just curious as to what company to get an injector pump from, who would you go with?

I have a friend who is having problems with his pickup. We have come to the conclusion that it needs a hpop. I gave him two companies to go with, Industrial Injection and Therobred Diesel. I told him if it were my truck I would go with Industrial Injections pump. He wants to know what the difference in the two are since Industrial's pump is about $220 more. Who would everyone else go with. Thanks everyone

Ya, changing out the starter with a new replacement took care of the starting problem. Both he and I would better be safe than sorry when it comes to the fuel pressure.

Well this truck actually has two problems. One is the starter is dragging on the initial turn of the key causing very slow initial cranking hot and cold. With that repaired and checking his fuel pressures, are only 8lbs at idle and only 6.5 to 7 going down the road at light throttle. According to the factory manual pressure should be at least 10psi. I hope the injector pump isn't damaged. I have talked the owner into installing an aftermarket lift pump. I have a FASS system in my truck and am putting the same in his. His will be a little more work since he has already had the retrofitted in the tank pump replacement about 8 years ago. Just waiting for the parts to arrive.

Thanks guys. I didn't see any bump in pressure when the key was initially turned on so we my have a bleed back and or failing lift pump. I also have no fault codes. He doesn't have an aftermarket pump but does have a dealer installed in tank pump after the original one on the side of the engine block died. He later had to put a new vp44 on it also, probalby because of the failing lift pump. The truck runs fine after it starts. I know when I installed my FASS system I had to wire in a relay that shut off power to the pump when cranking the engne because the vp44 didn't like all that pressure at start up. I hate air leaks, they are so damn hard to locate. Oh well at least its not my truck and I'm getting paid.

Guys, I have a friend who has intrusted in me to fix his truck. It is a 2001 CTD. This truck use to start when you turned the key right away, hardly would crank over a half an engine revolution and start. Now it cranks two or three complete revolutions before it starts, usually after a hot restart. He lost the factory lift pump years ago and had the dealer install an intank lift pump. He had the injector pump fail shortly after that pump was replaced. I'm wondering what the lift pump pressure should be when the key is turn to run but engine not started. I have none at this time but it starts and has presure of about 7 to 8 psi when running. Should there be initial fuel pressure and go off after a few seconds? I know my FASS fuel pump on my truck initually gives fuel pressure then shuts off and starts up once engine starts. I'm not sure about a factory system. Thanks, wes.

A little update. The past couple of weeks I installed a new clutch in my truck, put the Edge box in and just completed installing a new Pacbrake exhaust brake system. All made a very nice change for the better in this truck. The edge box and the exhaust brake will be a good addition when towing our travel trailer. I'm just a little concerned how the ehaust brake might negatively effect the internals of the engine. I don't think it will cause to much harm since it will only be used when towing. I would like to thank everyone on this site for there opinions that they have provide. Very good information and good help. Thanks.

I had the boost and fuel pressure gauge already on the A-Pillar and liked them. I added the temp gauge to them with a new three gauge A-Piller mount. My new clutch showed up today so I know what I will be doing this weekend.

That's good. I can see this is a important gauge to have and should have had one a long time ago.

Took a step closer and installed an EGT gauge. Seems to work fine but I'm not sure how they are suppose to work. This shows temps around 300 degrees at idle after warm up and goes up between 500 and 700 degrees with various levels of thottle to 60 mph and then back down to 250 to 300 at idle. Is this normal for an EGT guage?

Its all coming out my pocket eventually anyway but its the thought that counts. lol

Well my wife heard me talking about this and has gone and ordered an Edge box for me for my birthday. What a good wife. That gives me an idea, start looking at clutches.

Thanks Mike. I think you changed my mind , Edge Comp it is.

Oh, Ok that makes sense.

Yep the smog testing is a big pain in the butt. Its all about revenue and nothing to do with polution. That's one consideration I have to look at is the ability to be able to take it off and put it back to factory when I smog it. The Edge EZ looks like the ticket for me. I have an 88 jeep cherokee that I built a 4.7 liter stroker motor for and have larger injectors and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and had to make a voltage regulator for the MAP sensor and it runs so clean it wiill pass smog without the cat on it. I keep it off until I have to smog it then I put it on, smog it, and take it off. Ok on another note, what is a boost elbow?

Its a five speed and I was planning on putting a new clutch in it. Truck only has 92,000 miles on it but I have only put 50,000 on since 02. Budget isn't really a problem.

Nick Ya know I'm not really sure how much more I need. I don't want to push the factory drivetrain to much but want to make sure I get enough. The trailer is 6000lbs empty and 7700lbs gross and I live in Northern Cal and pull mountain passes and long grades.

Thanks Mike and Mike, I was looking at the Juice line. I've got the factory gauges with after market additions of a boost gage and a fuel pressure gauge for tha FASS lift pump. I dumped the factory lift pump before it failed just to be safe. I don't plan on installing any high performance injectors or injection pump. I just want to get little more out of what is there when towing our travel trailer.

Hello guys, haven't been on in a while but now that the house repairs are done for a few months I thought I would do some things to my 2000 CTD. I am thinking of getting a performance tuner and this will hopefully not open a big can of worms and arguments, not my intention. I have a 2000 Dodge CTD that is stock with the exception of a 4 inch exhaust. Thinking about installing a exhaust brake for towing our travel trailer. I am also thinking about installing an engine tuner and am looking for ideas and suggestions on which one to get. I'm looking at the Edge tuners. Any thoughts? I don't want to install any high flow injectors or a high performance Injector pumps as we have to smog these trucks here in California. Thanks, Wes.