WesHawkins

The owner of the truck is going to do that.

Bingo!!! Took the Banks Ottomind off and hooked it all back up to factory harnesses and it run great. No more surges or missing.

I had a headgasket leaking in the same area on a friends truck that you describe here. In fact its the same truck I have been posting about here the last day I'm working on now again. If its coolant leaking I wouldn't wait to long to change the headgasket, it will just get worse. The're really not that bad to change, actually one of the easier headgasket jobs I've had to do in the last several years.

I think you hit the nail on the head. Going to put it all back to stock and drive it. The thing is I have a 2000 Dodge and I after driving this truck with this power box I see very little difference in performance over my stock truck. The only thing I have done to my truck is a FASS lift pump, a Fleece cooling system bypass and a 4inch exhaust. Its runs great.

Well well well guess what I found. I had a little more time to spend on it today after finishing another job and what do I find, a Banks Ottomind power control box stuffed under the dash. Can I see a show of hands from those that think this is probably the problem. Now I will probably have to disconnect this unit and go back to factory to rule it out.

I also started digging around it and found wiring harnesses that aren't factory that tap into the APPS and go under the dash somewhere. Looks like he might have some sort of power adder on this after all. The only scanner tool I have that will do runnning live data is an Auto Enginuity program that uses my laptop. My old laptop crashed a few weeks go and I still have to reload the program onto my new one. I haven't used it that much and don't know what the information its sending me should be so I'm not sure what to look for. This will be a learning experience. Glad its on someone elses truck.

This truck starts fiine an runs fine at idle and it runs fine when accelerated heavily. It misses and surges just off idle up to half throttle with little or no load on it. I tested the APPS sensor and found using a analog volt/olm meter at about half throttle the needle on the meter stops moving with the throttle movement then starts moving again. Going to check a few more sensors tomorrow and will probably take mine off my truck and put it on this one and test drive it. I'll post what I find.

On an earlier post I was considering swapping my pump out to a friend and then ordering a new/rebuilt for me. Now that I have his truck here at my shop I am glad I didn't jump and do that. Upon driving his truck its misses and surges at initial throttle and at light driving conditions. When you put your foot in it, it takes off and runs great and doesn't miss or surge. It even does it going down hill holding it in third gear with very light throttle. The best example I an give you is it feels like a gas engine with a bad spark plug or spark plug wire. Differenece is Once you get past half throttle it runs great. As long as it has a strong pull it runs fine. I'm going to check lift pump pressure and for air but I really don't think that is the problem. I would think if the problem was with either the lift pump or IP it wouldn't run so well under heavy pull and throttle. I'm leaning toward a APPS or Manifold pressure or Map sensor. It is a 5 speed manual. Haven't checked for codes yet, the light is not on but did come on for him a couple of time but goes off after within a minute or two or after cycling the key off and on. Ideas??

Ya the kit came with a new elbow to fit the 4in pipe. I don't think I would that much performance by using the Pacbrake elbow..

All of the the exhaust, turbo, on the engiine is stock except for the 4 turbo back exhaust pipes. It is a 5 speed manual so that makes things a little easier also.

I've kinda been leaning toward the pacbrake but I need to find out if they make their elbow to fit a 4in exhaust. I know they have one that fits down stream in the exhaust pipe that is 4in but I'm concerned the farther down stream in the exhaust would delay braking. Got to get on the phone I guess. Tax return will go toward this.

Guys Didn't know where to put this post, trailer/RV or here. Sorry if this is the wrong place but I am thinking about installing an exhaust brake on my 2000 dodge 3/4 ton. Looking for suggestions on which one to get. I already have a Banks 4inch exhaust with the power elbow. Thinking about a BD or a Pacbrake. Any thoughts?

What I was going to do was charge him the core charge for my pump and turn his pump in for the core for mine plus charge him the labor for the installation. I would end up getting mine payed for by almost half but now I'm thinking of leaving mine alone until it goes out. I might get a lot more miles out of it than I think especially since I take care of mine and don't abuse the truck. This truck is really spoiled.

My thoughts on getting a IP for my rig even though I don't seem to be having any issues right now is these fuel systems are now 13 years old and I worry that they will be harder and harder to come by as time goes on. I don't drive mine a lot, mostly for towing and hauling. It had 42,000 on in 02 when I got it and now only has 92,000 on it. I plan on keeping this truck for another ten years, no plans on getting rid of it. I just want to stay ahead of problems.

Ya when I get his truck I'm going to check the lift pump pressure and APPS. If its a lift pump again, he had one already at about 110,000 miles and now has 235,000 on it it probalby damaged the injector pump also. I'm going to sell him my pump for the cost of the core and then use his as a core for mine. I want to get the best pump I can get for my truck and it sounds like a CPP from industrial injection would be the best bet. Thanks everyone. Wes.

I'm just concerned with mine because when I replaced my lift pump with the FASS the truck had about 85,000 miles on it, it now has 92,000, so most of its life was spent with the factory lift pump. If his is the lift pump again its probably already damaged the injector pump. Does anyone know if other rebuilders sleeve there pump housings like Blue Chip claims to do.

I have a gauge in my cab. It runs about 14 to 16 lbs at idle and around 12 to 14 at hwy speeds. I don't know what his is. He is convinced his problem is the injector pump, me not so much. I'm going to do some testing on the lift pump in his before changing it. His surges at hwy speeds and he says now its shuting off going down the road and then will fire back up.

I have replaced my lift pump a few years ago with a FASS and my friend has had his replaced with an intank lift pump. I don't know what brand he used. Again I replaced mine to stay ahead of potential problems that a bad lift pump will cause.

Well I have to say I wish I had found this site years ago. I have a quick question and hope it doesn't open a can of worms. I have a friend who's VP44 has gone out. He is looking for a replacement. He does not have a lot of money to spend so I suggested to him that I would sell him my pump out of my truck for the core cost and get a new rebuilt for my truck. Nothng wrong with mine but I like to head things off at the pass before I have problems. I have almost a 100,000 miles on my 2000 Dodge 2500. If this were your truck Mr Nelson who's pump would you go with. I'm looking at pump from Blue Chip Diesel. Cost is not an issue and I don't want a hot rodded pump. Thanks everyone. Wes.