The_Hammer

I've never heard that before. Do you have some links?

The reason I was thinking about going with DOR is that the build quality of the track bar I got form them is outstanding. Also, I may go to 37" tires in the future. I've also heard about the lead times, best bet is to call and check before ordering. I'll more than likely do the factory HD upgrade and see how that goes. I'm all about saving money if I can but also believe in "buy once cry once".

I'm definitely going HD, just not sure if I'm going with the factory HD or DOR's. http://dodgeoffroad.3dcartstores.com/DOR-Heavy-Duty-Steering-Kit-Drill-Out_p_25.html

Seems that what I've heard is true then. I'll either try to find the Raybestos Pro parts or cough up the money for the DOR HD steering kit. I've already upgraded my track bar to an adjustable DOR piece, it's seriously heavy duty to say the least. In case anyone was wondering what the difference is between the LD and HD factory steering on these trucks:

I agree with Mike. I would test with a mechanical gauge just to be sure it's not actually the oil pump. I've seen it happen before and the results of an oil pump failure = $$$$

So I'm planning to upgrade to the 98-99 HD steering in the near future and was wondering about the current quality of Moog parts. I've heard that Moog's quality has really gone down the crapper in the last few years but I don't have any first hand experience to confirm or deny it. I don't want to spend the time and money installing new parts if they're not going to last.

I'm keeping this truck for the long haul so anything I can do to improve it is worth the time and effort.

I wish I had known about it sooner. It made a very noticeable difference in how the truck steers, it's much easier to turn my 35's now. Also replaced the seal on the sector shaft and flushed out all of the ATF +4 with actual power steering fluid. I'm also going to adjust the over-center screw as per the TSB to see if I can take up the minor amount of play I have.

This is why I love this place! The quality of information given is second to none. That's definitely proof that I need to be adding 2-cycle oil at every fill up.

Thanks for the input guys. How much fuel lubrication did we lose when they switch to ULSD?

I know it helps save the VP44 pumps but what about a P7100? I think it would be beneficial but I would like to here from those with more experience on the matter. If it is a good idea, what ratio of oil to fuel should I use? Just for clarification there is nothing wrong with my pump, I'm simply looking at preventive maintenance practices.

I wish I could have given more right now but my wallet is already begging for mercy.

Having a solid understanding of how this transmission works and knowing what upgrade parts are actually in it has given me the confidence to move forward with the fun stuff. With all the problems it was giving me I was afraid to add a bigger turbo and injectors, or even a GSK.

Figured I'd update this in case this thread comes up in a search. I hate it when people never post what the solution to their problem was. Long story short I installed a new valve body and my trans works better than it EVER has. The full story can be found here.

Just a final update: I finally got the T/V cable adjusted and my shift timing is very nice. All of the issues that I had before stopped once I installed the new VB. My shifts are quick, firm, yet smooth. My converter used to lock so hard that I would always back off the throttle right before it locked, now it locks up firmly without feeling like I'm going to twist my trans apart. I'm also enjoying having full fluid flow in park, I no longer have to put it in N to fill the converter (check valve is removed). All in all I'm VERY happy to finally have this sorted out

I'm not sure what do think about my truck addiction lol. $1k later I have my transmission finished and working right but now I have a leaking steering gear, worn out ball joint, and leaking inner axle seal. I dropped $400 back in Oct for a DOR track bar. Then I tabbed the KDP, replaced the front main seal, advanced the timing to 16.5*, and replaced my evaporator and heater core, boom another $200. I still need (want lol) to get a 4k gsk and valve springs. Other things on the list include a new top dash, DOR shackle flip so I can remove the factory blocks, DOR control arms, 3" progressive coil springs to replace the 2 1/2" spacers, a 65/62/12 or 14 turbo, 5x12 injectors, and the list goes on. The problem is I'm far from being a rich man lol.

I just donated. I've learned a lot from this site and don't mind helping to support it one bit

Now I see it, thanks! Time to go back and put some thanks in lol.

How do I become a paying member?

The "+" is a multi-quote thing. I'm not a paying member yet and yall' are, maybe that's the problem?

This is all I see.

Isn't that the truth and then some. On a completely different note, how do I "like" someone's post on here?

Maybe it's just me but I think it's absolutely retarded that I to have order Spicer ball joints because not a single damn parts store carries them.

I ended up pulling the input shaft to see what it actually was. Turns out it is in fact a billet two-piece made by TCS. I installed a billet 4.2 apply lever and billet anchor, there was a billet strut already installed so it stayed. Bolted up the new VB from HTS, installed the trans, filled it up, and was off for a test drive. The VB made a noticeable difference, (besides actually working lol) it feels like I'm really putting the power to the ground. I just need to fine tune the T/V cable to get the shifts where I want them and I. Idle pressure should be around 95psi and WOT about 180psi.

Finishing my dash is going to have to wait since I just dropped $800 on parts to finish up my trans.