leathermaneod

Thanks for the info! I don't know much about the 12v, guess I should have kept my mouth shut lol. Thanks again, always like to learn!

Thanks for that @notlimah. I have stock wheels so I guess I'm sol lol. I might as well just go with synergy because till I guy wheels and one of these other kits I'll have just as much into it.

@dripley I wonder if you could have somehow got a defective clutch kit? Mine has not been grabby at all and feels just like the LUK clutch that came out of it. I also asked the guys at DAP when I bought it if they'd had any bad feedback and they said no, so it mustn't be a common thing....the throw out bearing going bad at 70k doesn't surprise me though after hearing Katoom's failed at 5k. I tried finding out from Valair who makes the one in their kit before I installed mine, and they said they get them from multiple different suppliers and that they didn't think they were US made. They told me that it's very hard to find any bearing that are made in the US? Anyway I took Katoom's advice and picked up an SKF throw out bearing when I did the install.

I don't know anything about BD transmissions. Hopefully someone else here can give you some feedback on them. I'm not sure if it's the same for a 12v, but on a 24v a 5 hole injector would be a not as efficient one. So if you looking for fuel economy or don't want too much smoke, I think you'll have to plan on changing those. $16,000 sounds really high to me unless the truck is super super clean....sounds like he knows he's got the holy grail of years and is trying to get a high price just because of that. All just my opinion of course.

Ok so not to hijack, but I'm confused on this. Is there any T style steering upgrade for a stock height 01 with a build date of 2000? I've read so much conflicting info on this. I was waiting for the new synergy system to come out in August, but it's gona be $750, so I'd like to find an alternative if I can...I know my tie rod ends aren't gona last much longer....

Sounds like you've found the holy grail! And with relatively low miles too. The Cummins exhaust brake sounds nice. How much is the guy asking? And manual or auto?

I appreciate everyone advice and opinions on this! I finally got the loctite Klean and prime but didn't get to do anything yet because I had a very long day at work. I'm not sure yet what I'm going to do, but if anything more than just loctite and nut, I will use a needle noose and try to Cush the threads as @IBMobile suggested. I don't really wanna go banging with a chisel in there. I also really want to agree with @TFaoro on this one. Between loctite and locknut I don't see how it could come off. But then I also do tend to think that Murphy will get me any way he can so I see where the rest of you are coming from lol The other thing that does worry me is the fact that Gravity is acting against the nut since it's upside down, and unlike the top nuts on the horn, it may not be tight against anything if the old threads hold the stud at all. My only other concern is the heat from the grid heater since it's right there, but the loctite is rated for up to 450°. I don't think the grids will get that hot. Anyway I will probably try the needle nose idea first and if that doesn't work maybe I'll try a punch. Thanks again everyone. Even though I really think we are all over paranoid lol after all the nut stayed on there for the last year and I don't think the shop used anything special on it. It came off way to easy for my liking. It felt about how a normal locknut feels, and it was also only into the nut about 3 turns...

Got another question related to this temporary fix with the nut on the stud. Supposed I tack weld the nut to the stud, then I'd have no more worries about it coming off. Do I need to do anything special to protect the trucks electronics while I'm welding that? Like disconnect the batts or something? Also, if I were to buy a used head off c list or something, what should I look for or try to avoid? Should I look for one with similar miles to mine? What all do I need to have done to it before installing it? I found one on c list that came out of a freightliner school bus. Guy wants $250...this is the head number 245394362703 here's the link http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/pts/5629924402.html what do you guys think? Should I jump on it for that price?

I do not have any info on the LUK kit, but I'm sure you can find everything online or by talking to Napa. I pretty much looked between Valair and SB and decided on Valair. The only thing that was kinda weird about Valair, and I believe I've seen the same thing with SB in pictures, is that while the clutch material has a larger outer diameter(13" upgrade), it also has a larger inner diameter so it gives the illusion of having less clutch material. But I don't think that's actually the case. I hope that makes sense?

Roflol! No big deal. I wouldn't be too quick to get new fittings though. Make sure they are good and tight...I had to get a bigger wrench for mine....don't forget those seals on the T too....

Sometimes those JICs can be a bugger to get sealed, especially if they are steel vs brass. Im scared to ever take my big like off between my filter housing and vp44 after all the issues I had last time. At least I had Eric at Vulcan sending me new parts and and helping me get it worked out!

Man you guys are gona have a blast! This is the first time I ever wished I lived on the west coast

I certainly agree that in many instances you get what you pay for, but sb's prices seem a little over the top to me. Plus I think the "upgraded hydros" are pretty much nonsense. All they are is the 94-97 master and slave with a stainless steel line, and they are twice the price of a set from autozone. Time will tell how well my valair holds up. Fred at DAP even told me he prefers to sell Valair because he likes dealing with them better for warrant issues. I don't have any first hand experience to back this up, other than the short amount of time I've had my valair, but it just seems crazy to me to pay SB prices unless maybe you are sled pulling or hauling heavy non stop with your rig. Then we also have Katoom's example of the throw out bearing that came with his SB clutch failing at 5k miles. Again I don't mean to put SB down necessarily, just seems they are way over priced for most guys applications. Honestly if I had it to do over I probably would put a LUK 13" in mine just because it would have been cheaper lol. I say that because the clutch that came out of my truck was a LUK and I know had been used hard and it wasn't even worn out, pilot bearing was bad though. Again, these are all just my opinions and what I've observed going though the research for myself with this stuff.

First of all, I just want to point out that the antifreeze smell in the cab could be your heater core leaking. You can check the passenger side floor and firewall to see if you can find anything wet with antifreeze. As as far as gauges go, there is nothing wrong with an edge monitor or something like the quad that have gauges and all kinds of bells and whistles, if you like that kind of thing. Keep in mind though, you still have to drill and tap the exhaust manifold for your pyro probe, and you have to tap into the fuel system and install a pressure sender for fuel pressure, and install a boost pressure sender as well. I believe the juice w/attitude does give you other features like a turbo timer and the ability to read an clear codes though and I think, so does the quad. You can confirm all the specs on their websites though or you can call. Most of these companies are pretty helpful. The downside to a monitor with gauges is, if it stops working for whatever reason, or if you want to try a different tuner like a smarty or edge comp that doesn't have gauges, you have no idea where your at and if your parameters are safe or not. In my opinion, it's good to have the three big ones(fuel pressure, pyro, and boost) as dedicated gauges on the a pillar or in the dash or wherever you like. Fuel pressure is a must at very minimum with pyro as a close second especially if you have any power mods like injectors or tuner. Boost is more just handy for diagnostic purposes. Whatever you do, don't get glowshift! Get something from a reputable company like Autometer or Isspro. Both have very good customer service. Also, if you are looking for a pillar pod, you can pick up a cheap one of those on eBay than add gauges of your choice and of course it never hurts to have gauges and a monitor Also, just a though, the juice with attitude is a powerful box. If you don't need all that, you can do an edge ez and gauges, or if you want the power but not the monitor, you can do an edge comp and gauges. Of course just because you have the power doesn't mean you have to use it. So far I've had a Smarty and Edge Comp. I like the look of the triple gauges on the pilar.

Looking good!

Forgot something else I wanted to mention. If you are doing all the work of a auto to manual swap, I would seriously consider either the NV5600 or, better yet, the G56.....

If I'm not mistaken, you are doing the relearn for the ECM wether you have a Timbo or any other APPS. Either way you are telling the ECM what the new maximum and minimum voltages are. I could be wrong so hopefully Mike will chime in again and clear things up, but I would say if your set in the .4 range and the code is saying voltage too low, but the edge is saying your throttling, then the sensor is junk because the IVS is thinking your throttling when it should be seeing idling. I don't think raising your voltage is going to help because that will just push you from 2-4% to a higher percentage....like I said though, let's see what Mike says. I'm not totally sure if I understand all this correctly yet lol At the same time I don't think you will hurt anything by adjusting your voltage higher and seeing what happens, but it sounds to me like your in need of a Timbo APPS....

I have a Valair that I am happy with so far. It's not grabby at all. I've only had it for about 8k though. It is a 13" upgrade and the one rated for 400hp and 900tq, I don't remember the model number. I Believe the reason @dripley had issues with his is because of all the heavy towing he does. I remeber talking to him about it and he had the same clutch as I got. It's not a towing clutch. Not to say you can't tow with it, but it's not meant for constant heavy towing. I talked to DAP about it and they like valair better than SB over there. Just my btw please correct me if I'm wrong dripley

Well I'm very thankful to you for sharing all your knowledge on this stuff! I'm always glad to learn and understand new things about these trucks. Funny I was thinking maybe this would be the case right before you replied. I'll have to try it when I get it up and running again. I was planning to do the apps relearn anyway

Well I'm sure everyone will be very greatful when you figure this out! Although if we all just took your good advice and went with Timbo we'd have nothing to worry about. I hope mine lasts at least as long as the oe did and doesn't die at a super inconvenient time....at least I know I can fix it on the road if it does. Makes me wonder if mine would throw a code if I took it to WOT? I'm not sure if I have since installing that. Although since I have it set low, I would think it would be ok....

Very helpful info here Mike! I had no idea it was wrong to adjust via the screws in the rear. It seems you may have learned some new info since we had our phone conversation about this....I'm confused though, how do you know where to set the sensor in its oblong holes when you replace it if your not going by voltage? Or does it not matter? You are saying to just install the sensor, and then adjust via the setscrew until the voltage is where you need it according to the Wells instructions? Is my WOT voltage set too high now with my idle voltage at .505? What exactly happens if WOT voltage is too high? Will rev limiter no longer work? Sorry for all the questions. I'm starting to see now why you are such an advocate of the Timbo APPS. I didn't realize there were all these unknowns when you go adjusting that voltage. I guess it would be even more troublesome with an auto trans. Hopefully I don't have anything to worry about with mine since high idle still works....do you think I do?

Oh ok now that makes sense why Wells tells you to set it between .5 and .6. Also explains why mine, set at .505, works just fine, although I wish I hadn't been talked into lowering it, by that person on CF, from .55 where I had it originally. I like to have some wiggle room. Makes me want to go back and adjust it again, but it's such a pain in the butt, I guess as long as it works I should just leave it be. Then when it stops working, I can order up a Timbo

The only thing I still would like to know about the wells is, why mine works correctly even though it is set slightly higher than the .497 that was on the sticker for the original. Mine is set at .505 and idles fine. Goes into high idle just like it should and the scanguage indicates 0% throttle other than the occasional blip that others have confirmed is normal. I tried to talk with bigfish about it on CF the other day, but he is convinced that as long as it is below .519, your are good to go, which doesn't make sense with the sticker voltage, but it would explain why mine works just fine...

Thanks @notlimah. Sweet it works! Lol yeah now that I know how the different apps' work, I'd go with the Timbo. Seems like that would be super easy to set especially with something like a scanguage or edge monitor that tells you the throttle position. And even without you can't really go wrong. I had one heck of a time getting the wells set where I wanted it!

Agreed, plus its already held for a year. It was about a year ago that the shop put that nut on. Only thing is, if that nut were to come off and actually make it into a cylinder, I think I'd have a major rebuild on my hands. I really don't see why it would come off though with this loctite 272, plus the Klean an Prime, and the locknut, and deforming the threads if possible.