Cumminz

IIRC even just 5 psi is enough to fully supply the injection system with fuel (recommended 15 psi). But point is that even if the lift pump was failing, the injection pump would start pulling from the tank (but usually is prone to skipping, missing, or bucking under this condition). I think you may have other issues. Injection pump, injectors...

Are the intake and exhaust pushrods the same dimensions (from factory)?

I personally think it should be pretty straight-forward... Someone else may chime in. Here's one from grainger (a place I trust). https://www.grainger.com/product/LUBE-Sight-Plug-Gage-1U924 That's about all I got other than let me know how it works. I may do the same.

I didn't know if that was what you were going to do or not. I see your angle now. Yeah that could be useful I think. I think this sight might help...? http://athena.industries/en/prodotto.php/57

Im confused. the fluid level should be flush with the plug hole. I don't think putting in a sight glass will allow you to see anything...?

10-4. So would that green wire be link the signal for the datalink connector to show a code then? jw.

Okay I think im overanalyzing here. Addictive mechanical mind...So all commands to vp44 are from ecm. No way to really test it other than the sensors or hot wiring it correct?

According to alldata its the Dk Green. So on ur picture there it says fault sync. I dont know anything about the datalink stuff. I know there is no way of testing that (i think). But I guess it the fault sync wire. Is that the signal wire from the ecm that controls the timing via MAP and IAT signal? And is there a way to test that one?

Im trying to figure out some stuff about this wire. Im pretty sure this is the wire that makes the pump work the way it does (utilizing the sensors, etc.). My question is is this wire taking a signal from the ecm to the pump or vice versa? What sort of integrity test can I do using a DMM for this wire?

Your truck should have both a crankshaft sensor (behind the starter) and a camshaft sensor (under the vp44). Which one did you replace because it sure sounds like a camshaft sensor...

If the batteries die, it is recommended to do an apps reset. However, in my own experience there have been times where they have died or been unplugged and did not get a dead pedal. If you get dead pedal, then it needs to be recalibrated. If you don't then I would say you are alright at the moment. Is your torque converter locking/unlocking? Just "Torque converter lockup" isn't really explaining what all the problem is and what the symptoms are.

Wow. I haven't seen that before. Does it happen at any rpm? random times? codes like previously mentioned? What all do you have done to the truck?

I recently replaced a hydroboost. I learned the hard way about the spring, retainer, and push rod. I disassembled it and noticed the retainer fell out through the end there where there is the little notch to maneuver it and pull it out with the rest of the stuff. (shaking my head). I didn't think that was what the notch was for. Anyway...learning experience. No need to take everything apart.

My only suggestion is getting a 180* thermostat (If you don't have one). I have had mine for about 2 years and it runs better than 190. I also believe I increased fuel economy by about 1 mpg too. I like it and haven't seen it really go above 205* too often.

Can air in the return line cause a hard start AND rough idle?

When i cracked the 4 lines open it did change the sound just not a change in the way it is idling/running. The mirror was still shaking. This happened AROUND the time i changed the injectors. They are industrial injections 40 hp ones. I bought them as slightly better upgrade for my truck and to hopefully smooth out the idle. Turns out mine are doing the opposite. It could be the haze is from the injectors dribbling too. Mine seems to smoke way worse than the neighbors 12 valve. The haze does go away when its warmed up so thats a good sign.

Make sure that you do the APPS calibration after you install it. I think that is in their instructions which are very helpful and easy as pie! Timbos apps is an excellent mod and shouldn't give you ANY issues. Have a volt meter handy when you adjust the idle screw to watch the voltage. http://www.dodgecumminsapps.com/Install_directions.html APPS SENSOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 1. Disconnect battery cables 2. Remove the plastic APPS cover. Next remove the six, 10 mm headed bolts that hold the bellcrank assembly on. When that is removed, you will see the sensor on the back. A T20 Torx is needed here.*Caution, these screws have loctite on them. So make sure that the bit is engaged fully into the screw head, so they do not strip, or you will need to use visegrips to remove them. NOTE: 2 new screws are provided. 3. After the old sensor is removed, take the new sensor and look at the side that bolts to the bracket. In the center, you will see the slot that engages in the tang of the bellcrank shaft. Next, line up the slot with the tang and push the sensor onto the mounting surface. *If a sensor does not mate flat to the mounting surface, the slot is not engaged properly, try again. 4. When you are sure the tang is engaged properly, rotate the sensor clockwise, until the screw holes are aligned, and start the screws. Just before the screws are tight, twist the sensor clockwise and tighten the screws. 5. Remount the bellcrank assembly to the bracket. 6. Next procedure is setting the idle voltage, using a digital voltmeter, and turning the idle stop screw clockwise. *Caution, the screw has loctite on it from factory. You will need a T20 Torx bit with a ¼ inch ratchet to turn it. Make sure the bit is engaged fully into the head before attempting to turn. Be careful not to strip the torx head! *If needed, a propane torch, VERY CAREFULLY, can be used to heat the screw; this will soften the loctite and allow it to break free. Only heat it for a couple seconds at a time and attempt to turn clockwise. Next look on the back of the 6 pin electrical connector, it is numbered. With the paperclip provided insert it into the back of the connector PIN # 3 (Green wire). Or insert it into the back of the factory plug(light blue wire w/black tracer) just make sure its PIN #3. This will get hooked to the positive lead of the voltmeter. The ground lead can be hooked to the ground terminal of the battery. Turn your voltmeter to the low voltage DC scale. Make sure paperclip does not contact ground. Proceed to plug the sensor into the factory harness and then hook the batteries up. Turn the key to the ON position. Now read the voltmeter, it should read .580-.700. Next turn the idle stop screw clockwise, NOTE you may turn for a little bit before the voltage actually rises. As soon as the voltage begins to rise, turn the screw backwards ½ turn and you are done with the idle screw. . To check the full throttle voltage, move lever by hand to full throttle. The voltage will be about 3.8V. Some voltmeters can vary a little so don’t be alarmed if reading are NOT to the exact tenth of a volt. 7. Turn key off, disconnect voltmeter, and pull paperclip out of pin #3. Last procedure, turn key ON, press accelerator pedal slowly to the floor and then let up slowly. During this procedure the ECM learns the new APPS voltage. If you have any problems email Timbom1976@aol.com or call 717-577-1464.

Yeah those codes... IDK. The Camshaft Position Sensor was replaced since i was replacing the injection pump. Well i was using the truck almost all day today. Noticed the rearview mirror shaking pretty bad. I pulled over and had a 3/4 wrench and cracked open 4 high pressure lines at the head and no change. I am hard-pressed this is not an "air-in-the-lines" kind of situation. I mean the thing sounds rough enough i don't even want to drive it. But its not as bad as like a diesel misfire (which is awful sounding). You guys (as well as myself) are kind of convincing me this is an injector (or connector tube) issue. I wish I had my old injectors to swap out to test it because i think it might be these new injectors giving me this MASSIVE headache. Thanks for all your input guys. Ill try to keep this updated. It might be a little bit before i can get MORE injectors/connector tubes.

My driveway does have a slant to it. and I have played with directions with the truck. No difference really. If there was drain-back im sure the truck would have a hard start if it was facing up but starts up instantly no issues (unlike the neighbors 12 valve...different story). Overflow valve was replaced with the midwest injection pump. Upgraded to timbos apps sensor. Ill have to check iat and map. If they had issues wouldnt they throw codes though? Ill check pcm grounds. Batteries are still in great condition and have checked connections. I need a video...bare with me guys. great input. I have also checked for alternator noise. Again lots of blue smoke even with high idle until really warmed up and real bad sounding idle. My truck even sounds weird when i let off the pedal cruising down the road... I also am not sure if this is relevant but i keep getting p0500 and p1693. I think i have cleared those codes like 5 times but keeps coming back. I am not spinning tires and my speedo does work correctly. Just fyi

I had thought about getting these injectors pop tested. I do suppose i am in denial that they are out of specs considering they are new from industrial injection. But it has crossed my mind. I would love to get this solved so this can help others. Great learning experience. Ill get them pop tested at some point here. Ill also check these crossover tubes for debris and that roll over valve. I was misunderstanding the suction side. How could i check that line? I also haven't messed with anything in the tank. this fass pump was already installed and has been "functioning" so it never crossed my mind to really check it other than pressure to injection pump and air from supply line. If air was getting in through that suction line wouldn't it show up in the supply to the injection pump though? or would those filters just trap the air? I have been draining those filters (fyi new filters). I suppose I have some things to look in to.

I have alldata so i printed out the procedure and did it. If you want the whole rundown youll have to give me sometime to go on alldata again. I might have to make a video but my phones camera doesnt work so ill have to come up with something. Its a rapid random skipping, not the grids. The skipping happens when truck is fully warm too. I only thought the seals if oil was leaking into cylinders. But if that wont affect idle then ill keep searching. jag1, intering you mention the vent issue. One week my tank leaked fuel from what i thought was the rollover valve above tank but it quit and hasnt leaked. Dont know why it started or how it stopped but no suction when i take off cap. when you say suction side do u mean return? If its supply side i checked supply from lift pump to injection pump with clear hose routed up to windshield with no air.

Thanks for the reply. You can definitely hear the motor going up and down slightly through the exhaust and it sounds terrible but not like a missing cylinder. My edge comp (although in my sig) I don't even have installed on my truck anymore. I took it all off to replace injection pump and to diagnose this problem. I know i scratched a couple tubes on the threads using the screwdriver method to remove them (but i did replace the o-rings anyway just because I was replacing injectors). The grid heater i know are working because the volt meter goes up and down when they are cycling (which i can also hear them cycling with the volt meter). I have not checked seals for valves. Would i just look if the seals moved up?

Do you have a stock VP44? The only things I can think of are hooking up a clear line between vp44 and lift pump and check for air. Other than that try the "Hot wire test" on vp44 for proper computer function. http://bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html#noStart3 Also the APPS signal is sent to the ECM and then goes to PCM. Cruise control i can't remember off top of my head. I think just to ECM. NO START TEST #3 HOT WIRE TEST - THE "FOR SURE TEST" TO DETERMINE IF THE VP44 IS WHY THE ENGINE WON'T START It is very rare, but possible, for a problem with the wiring harness or the CAN Bus wires to prevent the engine from starting, so if you want to be 100% sure it IS the Injection Pump causing the no start, follow the following directions exactly, to be sure of not damaging a possibly good pump. This test POSITIVELY eliminates the possibility of overlooking an electrical problem caused by other components that could affect the start or run function of the VP44, as long as you have verified fuel delivery to the Injection Pump. Remove the electrical plug at the back of the Injection Pump and hot wire the pins on the pump as follows. Get two wires long enough to reach from the battery to the VP44. Install an INSULATED ¼ inch female spade connector onto one end of each wire. Connect one INSULATED connector to pin 7 on the pump, which is the pin on the BOTTOM row of the socket on the Injection Pump, closest to the engine, to preferably fused (10 amp is fine) positive battery power in the PDC (Fuse box under the hood), or directly to the positive battery terminal if you like to take risks!. Connect the other INSULATED connector to the pin directly above the previous connection, the top row of pins, the one closest to the engine, and attach the other end to battery ground. Now try to start the engine and if it doesn’t start, you absolutely positively 100% need an Injection Pump! If the engine starts this way but NOT with the big plug installed on the pump, you know there is something in the harness or CAN bus wiring to the ECM telling or causing the engine to not start. Call me for help if this is the case.

My truck has had a random skipping idle with rpms jumping up and down slightly on tach. It skips at any rpm range and very noticeable. I recently upgraded the injection pump because of the computer issues. This didn't help it out at all. I have checked fuel pressure and checked for air in supply to pump. It seemed to have started when i upgraded my injectors to 40hp injectors. I have replaced all seals on injectors and tubes. I did scratch a couple tubes. I did bleed air from every line at head. I don't know if the tubes being scratched would cause this bad of an idle? I can firmly say that from the lift pump to the injection pump is good. Im thinking it is down to connector tubes, injectors or valve guides/seals? I would be surprised if the new injectors would cause this though assuming they were pop tested and have new parts to them. Also the blue smoke is excessive during start up and will last for about 5 minutes before clearing up. It doesn't sound much like a miss (Like loosening line at head), but it doesn't seem to be firing consistently. Could an internal leak in the head (i.e., connector tubes) cause a weird idle? Truck starts great every time. Seems to drive alright. What do you think?