idahocountryboy

Yep same issue here.... way over due anyways

Yeah I plan on testing more this weekend when I get back from Dallas. Has anyone had a Edge Comp go bad on them like this, or fry from any other reasons? How much would it be to have Edge fix it (and unlock it since it's there)?

This is Copy and pasted from Cummins Forum, thread I started. I even called Mike and we talked about it... This is too educate all the if the VOLTAGE is bad, the INJECTION PUMP will not work. This I did not know, but learned. Hope y'all find it helpful in the feature. But I have a question at the end. Please read and info will help. Two days ago: Sitting at dq, for a few hours waiting on some guys to meet me. After they left, I went to start my rig. No battery, so got two guys to jump me at same time. -After a long crank, it seemed to no be getting fuel. -Cracked lines 1, 3, and 4... then let the raptor 150 bump start run for 30 seconds 2x - cranked for 30 or so several times, no fuel at all came out of the injectors. - after all this, im waiting to be picked up by my wife battery Is dead again, Windows wont roll up. History: (truck has all in my Sig) - been cranking more than usual to start, thought it was injectors - fuel press, NEVER below 15 psi, 15-18 hwy speeds ideals @ 18-20. - injection pump is about two years old and is a S.O. Yesterday: Well it's in the shop now, they did all tests on the batteries and they where SHOT!!! So, that is where we are now. It threw codes but not for the VP44, but for the MAP sensor? Not sure about that... So what we are doing now is going to get new Yellow top batteries in there, and for from there. Good news tho, they got it to run with a good long charge, with no VP codes after that either. So praying its just the batteries. Today: (At the Shop, info from mechanic) Well got the truck back, new batteries NOT a Injection Pump, Thank God. Check Engine light is on Codes PO238 and P01475. I know the P 238 is a MAP Sensor voltage is too high reading, the P1475 Aux. 5 Volt Output Too High ... not sure what that means. So when it drives and the light is on, the truck kinda falls on it's face, just not the same rig. But, when we took off the Edge Comp at the MAP Sensor, and just connected them together, basically taking off the Edge it runs well. All I can think is when they put the charger on it last night, they first did it to jump the truck, maybe there was a voltage spike and did something to the Edge? How can I plug in the Edge and get that light to go away and run on the Edge like it was before? (Home, info from me) So got it home. When I got home I did not have the MAP sensor plugged in the Edge. Ran Stock and the Edge would not turn on. Plugged in the Edge. MAP to Edge harness, Edge Harness to MAP plug in on the block. Then turned on the truck. When the Edge was plugged in the MAP sensor and the truck turned on, the check engine light came on, and the Edge Comp would not turn on! I didn't have time, or the tools, but I was going to check the fuses. Why would the box not turn on? I am guessing, but is what is throwing that check engine light and those codes? (No codes with the Edge unplugged, and no light) More test after Thanksgiving for fuses and connections. Question... When the charger was put on the truck last night, highest setting, Start mode, would or could that back feed in the Edge box and fry it? Something I noticed when the charger was on the truck last night, the Hi beam lights were glowing very dim. They lowered the charger setting and they went off... and there seemed to be a buzzer like noise in the cab... They kept the charger on the truck all night, low setting. Just trying to see if the Edge box is fried? The truck was running 100% (except batteries) before all this.

Lol yeah go for it, love to help the cause

Well thanks to Mopar1973mans web site I got it fixed... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/39-transmission-systems/80-central-axle-disconnect-cad-system-troubleshooting This is the reference that is VERY good on how to follow/fix this issue if you don't have time/funds for the Posi lock system. once again... Vacuum leak! It was on top of the switch on the T-Case, Black (4x4) supply line. Cut it off right behind the brake put it back on, put the hose pod back on the direction I found it, and every thing works!!! Here you can see I took off the Pod (cap thing) with the four tubes going in it, and saw the broken tube. If you want to know what the pod looks like (like I did, and couldn't find a pic) here you are... NOTICE... Two notches on two adjacent sides of the black pod... those tell you which way it was (is supposed to be) facing. It just pulls off the switch, pull upward and wiggle it'll come off.

Ok... Researched this, but to no avail. This site is not working for me, but I want to see it http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummin...d/vac-diag.jpg So, in Texas, it rains and when it does it POURS!!! and when your 4x4 doesn't work it's not good in this odd soil. Started at the vaccum pump, has good suction there, tracked it too the T section on the fire wall (the grey/white line). This line has suction that is lookin like it goes to the T-Case... Then kinda disparages but I haven't put a lot of time into finding it from there. It's hard to get to the top of the T-Case... So then I went to the CAD (actuator) on the front passenger side of the axle. The CAD has no suction, so fallowed the lines to the drivers side of the transmission where they run on the cross member (steel tubes connect to the plastic tubes) No suction at the plastic tubes. (all test done with the truck running) So... how do I get a test to the top of the T-case? Any other ideas? Second... The CAD was rotating pretty essay, is that good?

Thanks after all this issues with my rig it was well worth it. Yes I did get moving again... It was a short in the wiring harness... guess it over loaded the Raptor, toasting it, and was just after the fuse, it never blew... So on the road again... New question though. Why will my new Raptor not hold at 20 psi idle, 17 driving, 15 under load? I bumped it up to 20 psi Idle. then driving my rv its down to 12 - 15 psi...? Now it idles at 18 psi? tighten the lock nut down more?

All the other ones where normal. Boost: 12 psiEGT: 900*Volts: normalEngine temp: 195*Oil Pressure: normalSpeed: 55 +/- 5 mphGear: 5th Tach: about 2,200 - 2,000 RPMFuel pressure: 15-5-15-5-15-0-0-0-0

I didn't think to do that, and it's in pieces now

Got my new Raptor 150 today... took off the old one, put on the new and.... nothing :confused013: I am at a total loss. - no fuses blown - no apparent power going to pump - no fuel pressure - new pump on truck (with old wiring harness) Now, because I didn't change out the wiring harness, it could be that, but, I would not think so with no blow fuses. I didn't re-wire it because of time, and frustration. :banghead: Tomorrow it goes to the shop, I'm done working on it now, I'm tired and don't know what to do now. I tore apart that old raptor... It did look pretty bad, smelled burned too. And, there where some very noticeable differences. The back of the Raptor where it mounts to the brackets. The Left is new RP, the Right is the old RP. The new one doesn't have that sliver screw thing in the back (sorry I don't know what it is but it's not the same as the old) The inlet port, has NO FREAKING SCREEN!!! I was like WTF?!... and no i could not get the one from the old one in the new one. I called PF but no answer, after Easter Time. Very curious about that one. This is to try to show the screen on the old pump... not very clogged at all... tiny little stuff but nothing big. This was after I had rubbed on it a little trying to get something done, but that copper, was covered in that black soot like stuff...:confused013:

I was hoping for this, but... did not see a blow fuse anywhere.

Did all this on the road I pulled over on... still no movement from the Raptor, nor does it fire on, or anything. yeah I said the same thing about FASS... 3 of 3 of my buddies all had issues with FASS so, yeah... electric pumps are just that... electric. As far as the pump itself, when working, I have had nothing but good things to say about time, and would get another in a heart beat on any other rig I get. Just one of those things I guess... I just hope it's this simple in that the Raptor locked up... and not something much bigger.

Ok y'all.I'll try to get to the point, I'm on a 5,000 mile RV trip (to my wedding, in N. Idaho from Texas), now I'm on my honeymoon, on my way back to Texas broke down in Gillette Wyo. Here is what happened. I was driving I-90 E. Relativity flat rolling hills. I have been watching all my gauges like a hawk. My fuel gauge vibrates and always has when I drive but not at idle. So I am driving at about 60 - 65 mph, 15 psi fuel pressure (normal) I see my gauge go... 15- 5 - 15 - 5 -15 - 0 - 0 - 0... I pull over in the matter of less than a minute. Pull over, shut her down. BUMP the starter, NO Raptor noise for 20 - 30 seconds like normal. Did this several times. Not even the initial prime of 4-5 seconds from the Raptor. Pop the hood, check electrical hook ups, fuses, Relays I can't really check but yeah they are there. All seems normal. Call a tow truck, get towed to Crazy Woman RV park, and ordered another Raptor 150 over night from Wyo Diesel. Supposed to be here from 11 am -1pm. I think the Raptor just quit. I have mechanical fuel pressure gauge, and because of the way I actually saw it happen, i don't know what else it could be? I have had this Raptor for about 2 - 2 1/2 years now, never an issue. Never got me below 12 psi WOT. Idle at 18 - 20 psi, drive at 15 - 17 psi. The truck will start and run, I did that to move the rv in place 8', and unhook off the rv if I need to get towed again, but I'm done doing that. Going to call PureFlow here soon and talk to them, I don't remember sending in my card, but I think I did, I am usually good about that type of thing, even so, I'm in Gillette, my mail is in San Antonio. Any Ideas? Like what happened, when I rip it off I will crack it open and see what might of happened. So until then, I get to wait. __________________

Pulling my 15,000 lbs RV 5er, I see 750-800 flat Texas roads at 65-70 mph1000 up hill in 5th, 2,100 rpm1,100 - 1,200* up hill in 6th *(down shift time), or accelerating uphill in 5th Avg. I'd say 800-900* at 10-15 lbs boost

I am actually from Sandpoint... I am heading back there from Texas to get married then back to work in Texas... Base camp i guess you could say Sandpoint. I know I know... But time and money, as you know... Thanks for the help the other day, always nice to get a good opinion in a pinch. Maybe this fall I'll head up there I usually make a trip to go duck hunting in Boise.

yeah, when/if it comes off again, i'll go in the rv get my wifes hairspray and try that. Does it go just on the outside or on the inside of the boot, the hair spray that is? When I finally make it to Idaho, I'll go look for a 100 lbs clip, where did you get yours? Napa? I THINK (not positive) I'm blowing it off at 30+ psi... Since I got my Rad fixed, its been game on and yeah, can now pull this beast at 70+ mph on the flats (at 190 - 200*), 55-70 mph on the rolling hills (depending on the hills), and 40 - 55 mph on a grade (200-210*). THIS DOES NOT MEAN I DO PULL AT THESE SPEEDS.... BUT JUST THAT I CAN PULL AT THESE SPEEDS WITH THIS WEIGHT. So I think I got a little over zelous, and will just slow down and watch the boost psi more, and try not to go over 25 psi... I usually try to down shift at either 1,200* (pyro), 20 - 25 psi (boost) or below 1,600 (rpm). What ever comes first. So All is well just a lot of driving ahead... with this load a fiance not feeling good, 3 dogs, and what ever wind I come into contact with. Hit a 20+ mph head wind in New Mexico, not fun. Tried to tail some semi's and that helped but they tended to pull away. There was a Duramax that was pulling a 28' 5er, I'd guess about 10,000 lbs, that I tailed at 65 mph. I was impressed, for my expectations of a Durapad. Until then, from the Grand Canyon through Utah, through E. Idaho into Montana, BACK into N. Idaho... I'll just watch my boost gauge, pyro, engine temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, bag pressure, tach, Speedo ... and oh yeah, the ROAD ... but that is why we have these gauges to monitor our rigs.

Well I finally found my problem with tis whole thing, I had to pull the radiator out, it was only 15% oil covered and for 240k I didn't think it was too bad. However, I had about 50% blockage in the interior of the rad. Got it rodded out and now, not breaking 210* at 70 mph!!! Night and day difference. This was after a new 190* t-stat, and clutch fan (which is either not engaging or my truck is to sound and can't hear it, but still haven't heard it in traffic). Next ill be doing Mike crank case fix to keep oil off the radiator. Now, if I can just quit over boosting and blowing the boot off my turbo, I'll make some time pulling at 60-65. that same boot from before in this thread has come off 2x this trip (Texas to the grand canyon, Sandpoint n Idaho, yellow stone, mt. Rushmore, dodge city Kansas, San Angelo Texas) and I'm just now at the grand canyon pulling my 38' 5er.

So, does the mod get in the way of your fuel lines if you need to crack the lines if you run out of fuel?

Ok, got some rough info. http://www.rvcountry.com/IRV/Files/205988_1.pdf GVWR: 17,000 (the 7,000 lbs axle) Hitch Weight: 2,400 (2,650 in all honesty what I bet it is with my load.) Unloaded Weight: 12,050 Lbs. (7,000# axles) [i got a bunch of empty rear axle weights off this site and Cummins Forum and the avg. is about 2,800, so i'm using this number as my rear axle weight until i hit a scale] Tire formula: Empty (2,800/2)/3415 x 80 = 32.79 PSI???? (2,800/2)/3085 x 80 = 36.30 PSI???? These psi seem VERY low, but buy this formula this is where they are supposed to be. Tire formula: Loaded (2,800+2,650 / 2) / 3415 x 80 = 63.83 PSI (2,800+2,650 / 2) / 3085 x 80 = 70.66 PSI The second one seems closer to what I would think than any of the others... maybe 55-65 psi in the front. So with this I am way under load max for my tires. - - - Updated - - - What did you mean calculate for a dually, is this a formula for a dually?

What is the formula to calculate pin weight when I get my trailer weighed?

Ok that makes sense.But what about the single / dual ratings an.d which one to use and why

Yes I realize I don't have the numbers, the scales I stopped in at where broken.So those are figurative numbers. But my question, is do I add the weight of the load to the formula? It sounds like I do. Second question was, which of those rates do I uses and why? Dual is for Dually? Single for single tire? Sill wondering on that. When I get my rear axle weight empty and my trialer pin weight, i'll adjust to my tire psi. However, I am guessing 75 - 80 psi is where I need to be with 2000-3000 lbs pin weight, and I bet my axle is more like 3,800 lbs but i don't know. The reason I bring this up is I see people towing heaving with only 55 - 60 psi in tires and that doesn't seem right. So I like the formula, and when I get hard numbers I'll put them in there and find my psi, but i needed to know if i add the load weight to the formula, and which of the two ratings to use, and why.

Mike, I saw on Cummins Forum, your/the tire pressure formula. (Axle weight / 2) / Tire Capacity weight ) x Tire Max Pressure = Infation Pressure. So my 'normal formula is: Dual Rating: ((4200 /2) / 3415 x 80 = 49.19 psi Single Rating: ((4200 /2) /3085 x 80 = 54.45 psi My question is do you add the load weight over the axle, ie. pin weight, or w/e weight is on the axle? If not, why? The tires still bare that added weight to the truck. So would the the formula look like this with pin weight of 3000 lbs.? Single Rating: ((4200 + 3000 /2) / 3085 x 80 = 93.35 psi? Dual Rating: ((4200+3000/2) / 3415 x 80 = 84.33 psi? Second, do you use the Single rating or the Dual Rating and why?

this is me to a T! Loved 1,000 but could see 1,400* if I wasn't paying attention. BUT I SHOULD OF KNOWN BY THE NOISE! I have pics but I'm on my phone in the middle of nowhere Texas.

Well went to San Antonio to Sonora. Hill country. And it was 106*. Did MUCH better. 10 mpg though but that is an improvement. 190-210* most of the way, dis hit 220ish once 3/4 in the tripPulled in these settingsedge comp:5x55x35x13x33x22x3Hay to say my favs are 5x1 and 5x3. 5x5 did fine but thought 5x1-3 was a smoother pull. Settings did not seem to matter for temp or Egt s. Believe it or not! Today on my way to work I found a boost leak. Did either on this pull or the previous pull to San Antonio. My Egts were getting hight driving w/o the trailer. Tipping in at 1000*-1,100* going up and ramp at 65 in 6th. Never sewn that before. (Now fixed) so... all in all it was good. Like y'all said, slow down, 5th gear is your savior pulling, 2k-2,100 rpm is were its at, and temps controlled by your right foot.Sent from my C771