Rogan

cool. let me know what you want for it.

I was reading about the 029 last night, and how it 'can' slow down with a 20" bar on it.. Then started reading about how so many people are 'modding' their 029.. Here's one such post:

Guess what quit on me 20minutes after I hit the woods?. Yep, you guessed it. On the good side, I picked up a used (well cared for) Stihl 029 18" for $150 from a buddy of mine. Came with case and 3 new chains, fresh tune-up. From the Galaxy S3

Thanks . I thought about that, but I'd rather stay away for using any type of sensor that I rely on its radiant temp, now, and go with something that actually samples the fluids temp. Derale has one that is 1/8" npt. The switching temp is a little higher than I'd like but it is the only thing I've found thusfar. Most coolant fan switches are rated around 205*F and that's too high for trans fan, IMO. From the Galaxy S3

From the Galaxy S3

It's actually a water heater blanket. I was trying something for heat retention. It worked wicked good! From the Galaxy S3

Trying a new mod on the grill. [ATTACH]4544[/ATTACH]From the Galaxy S3

that's how I roll :)I've got pictures of another one of my 4500s where 3rd gears hopped up on top of each other and mashed every tooth on both gears FLAT... I'm trying to find the pic now..

taking all you guy's advice, I pulled the saw out and went over it with a fine-tooth comb.. I cleaned it up, cleaned all the oil + sawdust and stuff out of the clutch cover and surrounding areas. Took the bar and chain off, examined the bar as instructed. I did not see any burrs, wide spots, or anything that looked to be a culprit.. I have (3) 20" chains. 2 need work, the one on it is the sharpest, but could use some sharpening, for sure. I flipped the bar over, and installed the sharpest chain. All I have to sharpen them with is a dremel bit, and it's either the 5/32" or 7/32" one (I can't remember which, off-hand, but I bought it with the chains.) Problem is, I have a Dremel attachment somewhere, just can't find it.. :banghead: The following is the chain info [TABLE=class: selguide_producttable, align: center] [TR=bgcolor: #DDDDDD] [TD=align: center][/TD] [TD=width: 231, align: center][/TD] [TD=width: 56, align: center][/TD] [TD=width: 51, align: center][/TD] [TD=width: 51, align: center][/TD] [TD=width: 62, align: center][/TD] [TD=width: 84, align: center][/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #FF3333] [TD=colspan: 6, align: left][/TD] [TD=width: 84, align: center][/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #FFFFFF] [TD=class: sgd_selgde, width: 123, align: center]H78 [/TD] [TD=class: sgd_selgde, width: 231, align: center] MICRO CHISEL® (20BPX)[/TD] [TD=class: sgd_selgde, width: 56, align: center]78[/TD] [TD=class: sgd_selgde, width: 51, align: center].325"[/TD] [TD=class: sgd_selgde, width: 51, align: center].050"[/TD] [TD=class: sgd_selgde, width: 62, align: center]3/16"[/TD] [TD=width: 84, align: center][/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

Thats great info guys. I appreciate it!From the Galaxy S3

I wished I could step this thing up to a bigger toothed chain.. it's currently a 3/8" .325 chain. I think it's a 72 tooth? I know the sprocket is like a 6 tooth.

Ok, so I'm looking to replace my current saw with something a little more substantial.. Currently (and for the past 4 yrs) I've been swinging a Homelite Pro 20 in. Gas 46 cc saw. It originally came with a 16" bar/chain, so year 2, I bought a 20" bar setup for it. It cuts like a champ, albeit sometimes hard to start. It doesn't like to idle for more than 20 sec. or so, but it has cut many a cord of wood. The downside I have with it, is that 1) it wants to curve the cut when going through anything bigger than 10" diameter.. 2) it tends to stall the chain if you apply any real pressure to the saw when cutting. I don't want to spend $1000, or even $500 for that matter, on a better saw, as I only cut wood for supplemental heating of my home. What is causing this thing to curve-cut when going through larger diameter wood? I've tried really focusing on my cuts to ensure I'm not doing something wrong, but it seems to do it even when I try not to..

My uncle is part owner of Cold War Air Museum in Lancaster, TX. I've posted pics of some of the aircraft here, before. There's some neat stuff to see there, if you're into older aircraft (winged and rotored).. http://www.facebook.com/Cwamtx

Welcome to the forum. As to ease the assistance in troubleshooting future questions, please remember to fill out your signature with your vehicle specifics, so we all know what year/mod the truck is

A VERY GOOD read.. http://gizmodo.com/5950763/holy-fcklook-at-all-these-sr+71-blackbirds-together

My old 4500..

That's actually a lot more affordable than I was thinking..

In all honesty, I think you definitely need to just get a good scanner on it.. I'd definitely lean towards an ecm issue. Are the Fords still batch-fired injectors, like they were back in the EEC-IV days?You've replaced most everything related to spark control, with the exception of the ECU. Given the fact that you've replaced the wires, I know it's not a COP ignition, so that really only leaves the ECU.. Are you running the Ranger or Taurus ECU?

^^^ Troof!

Your insurance rider may vary, as I am in Virginia, and (ironically) insurance is fairly inexpensive here; I pay about $800/yr full coverage for a 2007 Nissan Quest and my 97 3500.I think my rider (when applied) raises the monthly cost about $30-40. I don't carry the plow rider all year.as for springs/bumps, I just went with the bumps. Springs will help, too, but remember, when you're not carrying the plow, you have the added stiffness of the spring as you ride around 'empty'..

As everyone else has stated, that's one of the dumbest things I've heard in awhile! :)There's no back pressure, because there's no 'front pressure'.. It's just spinning.. It's spinning no more or less than before the straight pipe installation, it's just probably a lot more noticeable (read: audible) now that there's no muffler to 'muffle' the sound.That guy doesn't deserve to drive a 2011 Dodge. He needs a Yugo.

Ok, it's done. YAY ME! lolI got the CTS swapped this past weekend. Actually, Ryan, it was quite simple.. sorta.. LOLI disconnected the 3 pcm connectors, the AC drier sensor connector, pulled the harness off the cowling, and threw it over the driver's side fender..Then I removed the intake horn thingy..Then I pulled (2) 15mm bolts and removed the LR engine lift hook. BOOM! there was the CTS, in the wide open. The intake horn had to come off merely for ratchet swing clearance..

Having had both the 4500 and 5600, I like the 5600 better for towing. The 4500 has a huge rpm drop between 3rd and 4th. The 5600 bridges this gap, while maintaining similar 1st, 2nd, and 6th (like the 5th gear), rpm-wise.

So I wrote this long post about my plowIng experience as an income and just as I started to hit submit, my computer died.. I'll write it again later.. From the Galaxy S3 - - - Updated - - - BTW, the auto-save feature here on the forum is DA BOMB!!! (thanks, Mikie! ) I'm by no means a 'professional snow plow guy', but I have plowed for businesses the past couple years; both of those were with my 2001 2500 QCSB 6 speed. The key is maintenance.. Be diligent about it, too. Clean, tighten, clean again.. Don't hot dog with the plow attached, whether it's up or down.. And remember, when it's on the ground pushing (even if it's a neighbor's driveway) you're ___ had better be making money. As previously stated, it increases wear and tear, magnified many times. Here's my advice: [*]TIMBREN.. Get 'em, install 'em, enjoy 'em. [*]Know what you're plowing.. Know where manhole covers are, curbing, speed bumps, railroad tracks, etc.. [*]Plow slow and steady.. Hauling ___ and throwing the snow 20ft away is stupid.. Cool looking, but stupid. [*]Whilst driving with the plow up, monitor coolant temps closely.. You may need some sort of deflector to force air into the grill, as the plow will cause a serious blockage and coolant over-temp issues. I usually carry the plow about a foot off the ground. [*]Ensure you carry about 3-400lb in the bed, behind the wheel-wells. This will aid in a couple ways: 1) takes some of the load off the nose when the plow is up, 2) adds rear tire traction when the plow is up/down. [*]Insurance.. You'll need the plow rider on your vehicle insurance. Last thing you need is to have to use pocket money to replace/repair something even as simple as a curbing piece, let alone a manhole or train track.. Or worse.. My 96" plow weighs in at 744 lbs, 830 lbs when you factor in the frame brackets, lights, etc.. The blade and A-frame assembly is 698lb. And it's 1/2" thick poly blade. Charge accordingly, and factor in your fuel expenses, maintenance and repair. This includes driveways for residents. I remember telling a senior couple in my neighborhood "whatever you think it's worth" when she asked if I could plow her driveway. It had a steep incline, was curved, 8" coverage, and took me about 45 minutes to clear, as there was a layer of ice underneath the snow from freezing rain prior to the snowfall. When I finished the driveway, she asked if I could shovel the sidewalk, so I did. Another 25 minutes later and I was finished.. She gave me $20.. LMFAO.. Needless to say, I haven't plowed there again. I have several contracts that are 2" minimum, and a couple zero-tolerance accumulation accounts. The 2" minimum accounts are also 2hr minimums. So every time I plant the plow on those accounts, it's 2hrs pay + travel time. The zero-tolerance accounts are a littler cheaper priced, hourly, as they require a more frequent cleaning, but they bring in the bucks.. One account is generally a 3hr job, each time I touch it.. It's a strip mall extravaganza, so there are tons of curbing and islands in it, so it's quite a technical plow. Stacking/storing also proves to be tricky. This is something you need to plan out ahead of time, as well.

[ATTACH]4530[/ATTACH][ATTACH]4531[/ATTACH]From the Galaxy S3