Nor_cal_Angler

Dave, I purchased my Turbo from my mechanic (who happens to be close friend) so it was local, he knew the truck knew the milage and condition, if you can find one local that in my mind is best...but as mentioned Ebay works, CompD, DieselTruckResource etc..usually have them in the classified. As for Manifold, I will not be using the 6.7 that option is reserved for Manual trucks...because it set's the Turbo down (towards the ground) for us 2nd gen guys, which confilicts with Auto trucks and our Transmission Heat Exhanger. I will opt for the Adapter method, there is a guy on Ebay that currently makes an adapter for the T3 to T4i conversion. The Turbo Exhaust housing is funky on these turbos..it is a "cross" or "hybrid" flange...they call it a T4i I have a CAD for sizing it...upon request. You could also seperate the 3 sections and then have the Exhaust Housing (turbo) plugged, machined, drilled and tapped for the T3 bolt pattern. For me it will be less expensive to go the adapter route as I do not have access to a mill to machine or drill press to re-drill and tap. Other parts are with Links.... These two links are for Coolent hook ups...you will need a hose clamp..it isnt perfect but will work w/o leaks. Obviously you will need 5/8" Heater Core hose. TWO EACH of these M16x1.5 adapter: From this website use PN 9919EFJ for -8AN http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index...p=&dept=Metric Then barbed -8AN fitting PN FBM1440 is an economical choice, there's several -8AN here http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index...ck!_Hose!_Ends HX 40 Down pipe if your not using the 6.7 Exhaust Manifold. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Diamond-Eye-4-Flang-HX-40-Down-Pipe-Without-Clamp-1994-2002-Dodge-Cummins-Truck-/110761201763?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item19c9e1d063 Exhaust Manifold Adapter from this guy..I have spoken with him on the phone..VERY nice guy..we may try to come up with something a bit slimmer as it sits...with gaskets and both pieces to the adapter it pushes the turbo away 1 9/16" away from stock location...which causes problesm with the shock tower. http://www.ebay.com/itm/VGT-HE351-HE351VE-Turbo-Flange-Adapter-T3-manifold-/140609674441?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20bcfd5cc9 Obviosuly...a Fleece controller...from Fleece Obviously a TURBO... Oil Lines will work STOCK...what you have already... I think thats It...I will check my work bench and make sure thats all that I have.... Other items that will need adapting are the SHOCK TOWER and Shock....if your an AUTO 4x4 and I will cover that once I get it figured out for myself.... Jake Already found other items....IC boots....You will need... 2.75" to 3" 45* bent boot http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=14&products_id=904&osCsid=a5c66b92981e0436dc23e5ae00fc4245 A Joiner... http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=9&products_id=114&osCsid=a5c66b92981e0436dc23e5ae00fc4245 3" T-bolt clamp http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=104&osCsid=a5c66b92981e0436dc23e5ae00fc4245 2.75" T-bolt clamp http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=103&osCsid=a5c66b92981e0436dc23e5ae00fc4245

Hey guys, I havent posted in quite some time and don't regularly (sorry) but I maybe able to shed some light on some of the questions that have come up.This swap is viewed by some as good and some as bad, I think that if your after huge power gains and have heard that it will provide that, you might want to consider a single more suited for the precieved goal or go to twins if you can afford it.Most of the negatives that I have heard of are related to TURBO issues, ie...collar sticks with heavy soot build up so if your running larger injectors that don't atomize as well or you consistanly roll coal, you will need to consider this. Also people have experienced snaped shafts with hard pushing of the turbo and or quick snap or letting off...mostly with "high HP" mods...Also people with stock motors have said that while spool up is like a HY without some fueling it is pointless...no drop in egts, no power gains either on a dyno or seat of the pants. Like was mentioned, I feel that keeping the electronic's incorporated is better than not...but that brings us to another issue...INSTALL.There are at this time no other options that I am aware of other than Fleece...which I purchased (I guess now would be the time I say I have EVERYTHING needed to install, I just have not put it together) AH is correct (althougt it is VGT not VNT, V Geometry T not V Nozzel T) they (fleece) access through the MAP to gather throttle position, boost, load etc etc...and he is correct they do have access to 0-100% sweep of the collar...the factory preset from fleece is 95% of max exhaust brake closure which is where they felt it was best suited for our trucks...you can access the tables via usb and an excel spread sheet but you must contact them in order to do so (most likely to explain why, as they don't need warrenty claims based upon opperator error) AH is also correct in that you have access to on the fly adjustment up to 20% (thats the number you were forgeting) for loading or not..ie if you wanted to build boost sooner increase it or if you want to drop boost lower it.OK off track...back to install...this is where it can get troublesome and where I have or had hit my snag...If you have a 4wd your gonna have decisions to make...Our trucks can take advantage of the 6.7 exhaust manifold which is nice because it lowers the turbo and electronic actuater but the problem is our heat exhanger sits right there so that blocks it...a Manual will not have the heat exchanger so if you have a manual your golden..the preferd method is get the turbo with exhaust manifold and DP it will all fit you just need EGR block off's which can be had anywhere or you can make them. If you have a 4wd...boy oh boy...you can either remove your heat exchanger and get a different one (expensive, a lot of plumbing) or you can like me...keep your 24v manifold in place and either plug and re-tap the case exhaust housing of the VGT to match the T3 bolt pattern, Purchase a T4i to T3 adapter (T4i also have heard it as WGMT or WGMT works not sure) In either case, you will need a few other things, like a HX40 down pipe becasue you cant use the 6.7 anymore (or any other 4") you will need new boots and reducers for the inter-cooling, you can use the factory oil feed, and you take advantage of the cooling through the heater core lines right there (you will need to purchase more HC line 5/8")Also and for the big finish...if your using the 24v manifold and you want to use the electronics to contoll the EB function you are gonna be to close to the shock tower for it all to fit..so your gonna need to mod that as well...most of the guys are (I am too) slightly clocking the exhaust housing (no more than 15* off verticle for oil draining) and clocking the compressor housing to line up the intercooler piping but the actuator housing is still to close so we are removing the shock tower and building a flat plate drilled to the 3 bolt pattern with a center hole for a new shorter shock...or like me (possibily) removing the passenger side shock all together, I have a dual shock due to my lift and with the outer 2nd shock I will be able to retain proper travel even without an inner shock. SO....CLEAR AS MUD right....All in all, if your after a HIGH HP turbo out of this I suggest spending an extra 200 dollars and do it right with a good single....becasue right now i am into this turbo, boots, reducers, AN fittings, Fleece controller, Down pipe, Exhaust Manifold Adapter, Gaskets (new T3 and T4i), heater core line about 800...and I most likely have another 100-200 in fab work to go...Shock tower mod needs to be finished and I may purchase a shorter shock (thats the extra 200)If your after a Good turbo that will produce a proven 450 HP truck with a box and injectors...plus a EB to help with towing, and want it for under a grand...this might work.Thats what I am after...I know and went into this knowing I am not gonna reach 600 hp, all I wanted was a good turbo that produced a EB...I couldnt have gotten an EB for under a grand, and as it stands I am getting a better turbo than the HX I have now....Any Qestions please feel free...I will since posting this check in on it....I am not a mechanic, and have little knowledge of turbos, but I do RESEARCH something before I step in it.Jake

Larry B's... Very easy to deal with, Phone call...price quoted...22.95 He said he has them listed on E-bay for that price which included shipping and that is what he would charge me... Placed the order at around noon on Tuesday...they were at my house on Thrusday....:thumbup2: NCA

Well, didnt do it yesterday....I decided to push the luck and do it today...only needed to start the truck once in the morning (going to work) and once in the evening (leaving work) and she fired up both goes... So I felt good about doing it today... Got up around 8 this morning, had my cup-o-joe and toast....strolled out to the truck...looked her in the eye and said..ME AND YOU BIG GIRL....:tongue: Started around 8:45 and finished cleaning the tools aobut 30 ago..sat back and had another cup while cleaning... 2.5 hours isnt too bad (and I found a fuel leak, drip, drip at the inlet on the filter housing :mad:) No wonder when the starter came out there was an unusual condensation comming out of the weep holes.. fixed the leak (I hope, gonna give it a few days and check back with it) Loose male to female (banjo) I think...it took a 3/4 turn freely:nono: Anyways...opened up the starter and she was BLACK and contacts were pitted, one contact Agressivly more worn than the other, but I have read that is common.. Good electrical contact cleaner, cleaning and slammed her back up under the truck... Test fired 3 start's in a row and she fireds right up.... Thanks for the help and well wishes.. NCA

not a member of Cummins...cant see it, locked out. NCA

orderd mine from Larry... I guess mechanical parts do fail for different reasons and at different times...the most common miliage I found was between 90-110K miles and people started noticing starter issues (for those that had them) obviously there are many more out there without issues than with.... kinda like the VP...some get it some dont....my 1999 when I sold it had 165k on the clock with the origional VP....added a GDP Walbro at 132K and when I sold her she was putting out strong 18 psi and 14-15 psi WOT. my 2001 is at 88ish on the origional and a Raptor behind it and who knows how long this one goes...could crap on me tommrow... NCA

yes sir eeeeee bob.... I am really only looking at it for the Forced High Idle, to prevent cyl wash and charging purps...dont need 3 cyl cuz I dont envision myself being in subzero temps... ohhh and I envy you not having to put up with a Wal-Mart every two exits on a freeway.....lol GOTTA GET HOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PNW... NCA

Gotcha...just giving you a hard time... So if I have a radio shack 5 min. down the road..and already have 25-50 feet of 18 ga. and only needed to order the connectors.... would you be willing to play COACH....lol NCA

Wish me luck.... I have yanked a starter before, to replace my CPS on my old 99...So I know what thats all about but opening it up is gonna be something new... doesnt seem that hard...I got the new contacts and plunger in the mail today, have poured over threads about it, and it doesnt seem that hard. Starter had been been clicking a few times here in the last month, off and on..and yesterday the starter hung on me for a second...truck clicked, then I tried again, she fired and the starter stayed on...shut it down and the starter stayed on...quickly started it again and the starter shut off...no damage to the starter it all happened within about a 20 second window...but I am glad I ordered those new contacts on tuesday....cuz she is on her last leg... any tips or advise on once I get her on the bench to open up... thanks NCA. PS..88k on the origional starter...everything I have read says starters are lifetime and contacts and plungers are good for around 100k...seems about right to me.

Mike, You figure 150 to install this on a truck.... I just downloaded the smarty software to prep for this and sent you an email a few weeks back.... is that 150 if you ordered parts, put it together and then mailed it to us... would it be cheaper if we ordered it ourselves??? and then PM'd the heck out of you for guidance......:tongue::lol: NCA

agree with the two above... but I dont have to worry about gelling the fuel down here....he-he what I have to worry about down here is, well how do I put it nicely...forget the fuel gelliing causing me not to be able to drive my truck...I have to worry about the Government not allowing me to drive my truck....can you say SMOG and CARB trying to remove my truck from the road little by little...(sry for the thread hijack) NCA