Carbur8tr

I've tried it on a few with a few different versions and never had this issue. Stupid question, but have you updated your computer recently and what OS are you running? I read somewhere that there was an update that was causing this a while back. Are you hitting the Pause/Break button at any point in the process of getting to this point?

I've tested it in 2010, 2013, and 2016 and I've never seen this issue come up in the hundreds of times I've used it myself. Do any of the other buttons work?

Yeah definitely not going to work for you in Libre office. Needs to be converted first if that's possible. Are you importing a tune first? Looks like from the tabs below that you haven't used the import function built in from launch which is more than likely part of the problem. Just click no on the donate box and it will take you to the next one that tells you what to do next. Do not break the code otherwise it will fail somewhere. The import is vital.

@kzimmer can you do me a favor and confirm for me what you're seeing for the tab at the bottom of the page you're on. Also try this, go to the options menu and try to build the charts from the tab within that menu. I might have the references offset for some reason. I'll try to recreate it on my side. Yeah not sure, tried to play around with it for a bit but can't seem to recreate the problem. Try downloading it again and see what it gives you. If it still fails after that try one of the following: Repair Microsoft Office Delete Microsoft Office Cache

So essentially the same both ways. If the import fails or it does not bring up the right screen then you will want to make sure you have the right tune profile selected compared to what you're importing. This is where things will get a little tricky and again hopefully something we can help with here soon.

The warm up mode is debatable, but a good place to start would be at or around 140. Really I would suggest that you do not do any dogging on your truck until you've seen the thermostat open. Once you're up to operating temp you should be good to go. That's my opinion and it's served me well for the last 250k and trust me I beat on my truck quite frequently. I would run it up through the gears and maybe even into lock up (assuming you have an auto) just to see how it responds as you're accelerating. Goal is to squeeze the most power out of your tune while being able to keep it clean. @Me78569 and I have been working on a tool that should make this whole process easier. Hopefully we can have it up and available here soon for the community to benefit from.

With iOS it's a bit tricky. Sometimes it has allowed me to "copy to IQuad" through Google Drive while most of the time this fails. The best luck that I have had is importing from email. So same process above but once you've downloaded the tune, email it to yourself and open it up on your iOS device. From there you will want to click and hold until the menu comes up and from there you should see "copy to IQuad." I will try to get some pictures up for reference.

I guess in some ways I'm fortunate I don't live in Houston anymore but sucks for much of my family that have already lost a good bit. More on the way too. Regardless though I'm thankful for the community and Texas as a whole. Seems like everyone has stepped up from every direction you can think of. Incredible seeing communities come together. If anyone needs anything please pass it along so we can help out.

So what were you referring to by "misadjustment" then?

Any luck on getting your 4k box smoothed out a little? If you're still having trouble post the tune parameters you're running and we can try to help out.

I bet it was fun while it lasted, and are you referring to your valve lash just being too tight? Op, I've been running the Crower springs and drive my truck at minimum 60 miles a day and have for the last 3 years or so. Springs have been in for around 5 years now and no problems. Still on the stock push rods and no issues. As long as you don't plan to go above 3700 or so you should be fine with the stock pushrods.

How's everyone doing with their tunes? Any new discoveries or progress?

Do you have any other electronics in the truck that use blue tooth? Did you have any devices in the truck that might emit a blue tooth signal that might have caused interference?

Being under the hood shouldn't make a difference. Have you checked all grounds/power connections? See any corrosion anywhere?

Awesome job on the tune and I wouldn't worry too much about the idle if I were you. Mine has done it for years and can idle anywhere from 790-850 depending on the ambient temperature, truck temp, mood, etc.. Do you have an HO pump or an SO?

So sounds like this is common so I guess I'll be the test pig. Hopefully I can get a video of the issue soon just so everyone has reference to what the issue sounds like. Both the bushing and the clock spring seem to be about the same price so I'm going to attempt the bushing first and hope for the best.

Not sure a bushing is the solution. The issue is almost a pop/squeaking. It sounds to me more like a bearing of sorts or maybe a spring broken or twisting in a mount. And the issie existed before and after the trac bar was installed so unfortunately rules that out.

Seems that over the last year or so my steering wheel has developed a popping/clicking inside the cab. I've read a few posts in the past where people said it could be the clock spring or the bushing but both seem to be hit and miss fixes. Just curious if there's anyone out there who's actually fixed the issue and what worked for you. Doeant matter which way you turn the wheel the problem still exists. The noise is definitely from the column and it sounds more like a bearing when it's gone out. Any advice is appreciated.

@crf450ish are you running an iDevice?

@Mopar1973Man Hard to say on the injectors, if your theory is correct I have to wonder if the cylinder pressure is fatiguing the spring??? I've been talking with Nick a bit and agree that from the looks of the smarty data, the issue that we are having holds little water based off of the excess timing argument. I know of a few people running the smarty and no one has ever complained about rough idle. Still leads me to question though where this is coming from. My injectors are fairly new so I would be very disappointed if I had one trying to go on me. @TFaoro my idle can range anywhere from 830ish to below 800 when the idle is rough like described. I think I've seen as low as 790.

Very true, and mine are not that much bigger than yours. I'm also on an HO motor so there's that too. @Me78569 True, and using the same logic, one could imply that once the cylinder temp was up it would require less to ignite the fuel in the bowl and by pushing the fuel in early we could be causing excess heat.

Definitely and the throttle response is awesome but I can't help but wonder what the cost of that might be. For instance Mike and I now have a weird lope at times with timing just barely above what the stock ECM calls for. Not saying that we have a definitive answer on the timing vs lope conclusion, nor am I denying the timing use and place, but still leaves me to wonder if there was a purpose for the timing being low in the first place. Might be the nature of the beast and the pump itself, might not. I know that there are many Ppump guys running mid 20s for timing with no issues but then again different pump, slightly different injection event. So this would point towards the timing not being the issue. I agree, I guess my big question is cruise timing and just timing in general and what the purpose was to pull it down so significantly under load and acceleration. I wouldn't think twice but dropping timing by 9 or so degrees is definitely pointing to a purpose, not just random coding. Also to the cylinder heat, if the higher timing does indeed increase the amount of heat in the cylinder this could be why the timing, when cold, is so high. The engineers might have designed it this way to get the cylinder temperature up quicker.

@Me78569 I had a thought and also need some clarification with timing. Earlier you said that if I set the cruise timing to 0 that it would revert to ECM (default) timing. Is that true, because what I saw today was a bit odd. So while I was driving I switch from PL0 to PL2 and the timing was completely different and higher on PL2. Not sure if the max timing table was coming into play here but the quad was definitely adding some timing. So the factory timing seems to do a pretty good job of adjusting for load and the more I toy around with the timing the more I can't help but think that the low timing with a high load was intended for a purpose. EGTs can be throw out of the equation for the sake of this argument plus I have yet to see a large difference between the truck jumping around from 17-18 down to 12-13 while towing. @Mopar1973Man Back to our topic of high timing and injector/pintle wear, I would venture to say that we were on something a while back when we theorized that the higher timing helped with mpgs but also could potentially cause higher cylinder temperatures which was why we were getting a little bit of lope from time to time. I noticed the other day that the idle seemed to present itself after a short run around 85-90mph. Timing was up around 20-21.5 during that time and I ususally don't push the truck to those speeds, but speed limit was 85 so I figured why not. Coming full circle, @Me78569 do you think it would be possible to let the ECM do what it will for timing but design a low timing limit of say 14 so that the Quad will only allow the timing to be pulled down to the limit you set? After watching the timing on PL0 it almost looks like my truck bumps timing up quite well when pulling through the gears. Now obviously when I floor it things change but for the daily driving low throttle/low load acceleration I think the stock parameters would do an ok job of advancing timing. Thoughts for now but wanted to see what your opinion was. Also, with all this timing advance I have to wonder if maybe we could now benefit from a tighter spray pattern.

@crf450ish Timing is good to an extent. I think the generally consensus is 18-20 is about what you need to aim for while cruising. Too much timing just seems to cause some weird idle characteristics that we have not been able to explain. Keep it under 20 and you should be fine. To my understanding it's more of a set point rather than a limiter. For instance, you can set it at 30 degrees at 3k but it won't necessarily be able to attain that. I've seen it in the logs before but it gets rough above 26. Correct.

@Me78569 I have been trying like hell to get a tank where I didn't pull anything but haven't had much luck until today. Went on a 4 hour detour today running around 65mph and filled up twice with two different tunes just to see if I could get the truck to register some mileage. First tank with high timing, sat around 19.5-20 while running 65, averaged 14.6mpg. Now I was running into a little head wind but nothing that should have dropped me into trailer mileage territory. So I figured I would go the other way and run less aggressive timing and sure enough ended up netting 17.4 with timing hovering around 17.5-18. Still need to do a little hunting for the sweet spot but I have no doubt in my mind that I will be able to touch at least 18. Not terribly great considering what yall are pulling but definitely better than what I have seen. Still not sure if it's due to the HO motor, but I can definitely say that the higher timing hurts my mileage significantly.