cumminapart

This isn't ideal because I still get hammer pressure People run a grease gun hose and then the sender or a snubber valve to dampen the pressure fluctuations The fear is that the sending unit will fail but I've been this way over a year and I do know it still tells me low fuel pressure --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.773705,-84.595921

I think you can get a T connection from Vulcan which will go inline of the fuel line between the lift pump and vp44. It will have a threaded hole for your sending unit What I have with my big line kit from Vulcan is a tapped 90 degree JIC fitting I'll try take a pic in a little bit --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.773620,-84.595296

Are you talking about how to connect the fuel pressure sending unit? I believe the adrenaline would come with most likely a replacement for the banjo bolt with a tapped one for the sending unit. This is what came with my edge This setup isn't ideal because attaching directly to the vp44 this way produces fluctuating readings because of the hammer pressure from the injection pump I almost want to assume that the fass system will come with a fitting option to connect in a sending unit. As mentioned Vulcan definitely will have the right stuff but check to see if the fass system (which will run it's own fuel line and bypass the stock filter straight to the vp44) comes with a tapped fitting --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.773731,-84.595576

I got a timer late into last winter and have yet to actually use it As Mopar pointed out its been so warm this winter everywhere I think We Saw mid 50's last week for a day and supposed to be 50 again Wednesday Maybe we should all stop idling before global warming completely takes a hold Haha.... Completely kidding there --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.674964,-84.075705

What I mean by not much difference is that some people make a big fuss about giving extensive warm up time but what's the difference between loading the engine to make higher egts while idling or loading it by lightly driving until it warms up I just didn't think about how some energy is being kept within the engine using an exhaust brake compared to driving you loose a lot out the tailpipe --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.773605,-84.595496

Yea Mopar I suppose you're right the exhaust brake would trap a little bit more heat energy to warm things up.. Didn't really think about that

I think he means 280 degrees to shut off by egts I do the same 300 summertime 280 winter Normally it's already there because like said... You don't really need it most of the time --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.674844,-84.075546

Easy way to read codes. Cycle key on, off, on, off, on The odometer will read codes if it says p done its not finding any You don't want to hear it but replacing the injection pump isn't going to agree with the checkbook http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2627-P1688-Internal-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Controller-Failure --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.674866,-84.075813

I dont want you to dismiss it as just because of the edge programmer but did you recently install the programmer? Is it when using cruise or at all times? As for me, I never noticed it with just my edge but the injectors really kicked it off when using cruise --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.674917,-84.075710

My opinion is that loading the engine with exhaust brakes and 3 cyl high idle is no diff than lightly driving to warm the engine upHowever I also like to be comfortably warm when I get in to drive In my mind higher egts would mean that the cylinder walls get more of their heat energy for warming up from the burning gasses rather than friction and friction is wearAs u said the difference is going to be minimal As long as we dont get in and floor it everything should be goodI warm it up for a bit for comfort but I don't worry too much if I have to get going

I can get the fuse tomorrow how safe woul I be to run a straight link until then... I only have to drive a short ways

My 140amp alternator fuse is blown... Makes sense since my old alternator was overcharging .... Now i can't find the proper fuse --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.659692,-84.077418

Ok good to hear but also frustrating.... I guess the sticker that reads "performance tested" doesn't mean anything I assume they're rebuilt on an assembly line and only some are actually bench tested --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.661844,-84.073543

It's 12v and drops down a bit when what im assuming is the grid heater kicking on and then back up to 12v The alternator is remanufActured in china and another guy said he had two bad ones from autozone before the 3rd finally worked --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.593041,-83.937765

Ok after trying an external voltage regulator with no luck I had the alternator tested and it was doing some screwy things New alternator in and I've got only 12v reading in the gauge and after a few minutes it drops to Zero with no effect on brightness of lights --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.674987,-84.075746

while i was driving along today my battery voltage gauge suddenly peaked up to the maxwhen i pulled over as soon as i started getting slower it dropped back down to normal and the rest of the way home it stayed normalwould a short somewhere have caused this?i had been using cruise control but im not sure if i had it engaged when it happenedmaybe it was the cruise control and once i slowed down causing it to disengage it returned to normal?

ok i can wrap my head around thatbut it was in relatively the same temperature and i noticed it as a got closer to denver and my fuel temp was at 100-110 degrees after the truck had been running for closer to 20 hrsi started getting concerned that my lift pump was getting weaker so i cranked it up a bit til it showed 19psi at idle instead of 13-14psi and it was good for awhilethen i noticed a little seeping coming from the sensor and tightened it up a little i got some teflon tape thinking id find some time during the week to take it off and retape it but never got around to it actuallywell once i got closer to michigan my pressure is back up to normali wouldnt suspect that the air pressure difference at that elevation would allow it to seep a little and lose a little fuel pressure would it? or maybe the fuel temp being higher after driving so long allowed it to start seeping through? but that wouldnt make sense because it shouldn't have been back up once i got home to michigan

This doesn't make sense to me does anyone have any idea why my fuel pressure was reading several psi lower in Denver and up in the mountains than here in Michigan. It's an electronic sending unit. --- I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=42.474292,-84.887892

stumbled upon this and just have to say that the f-550 at MRC:shrug:....seems to get around 7-8 mpg no matter whatsomething to consider though is the pedal seems to be VERY weighted down for whoever drives it including myself (company dollars right?) another thing to consider is improper use constant startup/shutdown at times followed by idle running all day to keep the heaters on inside during the winter...... on top of about zero maintenance besides an oil change about every 15-20kjust within warranty this engine blew...... 97k:nono::hyper:i might add that the same winter that this truck got its engine replaced under warranty an older (f-550 that had been worked on several times) cant remember mileage but its engine went to hell very quickly also now that its been rebuilt :banghead:i guess the dump bed which didnt even work too well either... was worth enough to rebuild that damn thing????im not bashing on ford but im just saying that they cannot handle a work environment (from my experience)our gas silverados gave a good 300k with minimal maintenance before selling for $2,000they werent doing the heavier work though but once in awhile they got pushed

for example... mine are 7x9'swhich my understanding is 7 hole's at .009"you will be able to count the holes but good luck measuring on your own whether if they've been enlarged or not

i talked to peter this morning and he said even though maybe noone has heard of this on the forums they sell 40-50 clutches a day and here and there it happens though they didnt know exactly what it is thats different on some whether it be the hydraulic system or something in my truck or what people in the past have cut it down and it solved it because it shortens the throw... right now he said my throw is way too long he said cut half an inch off and if it doesnt fix it or anything happens he'll make it right i guess he said hes the owner of southbend? --- Update to the previous post... yep cut off 1/2in and my clutch feels normal again

so did you fix this?? and have you tested the leaving it parked downhill for awhile?does it do this if you start it shortly after turning off?if it starts better after sitting nose down, and shortly after being turned off you could have a torn connector tube o-ringafter the vp swap it could have happened but then you would think the shop who replaced the injectors would have replaced it and you would be fine nowim assuming the key was the whole problem since you didnt say anything more but maybe someone else may stumble across this with the connector tube issue

i think you would have to have a shop that does injectors check them out because any injector could have been changed up to be a bigger injector

okay yea i think it sounds like i definitely have to try what southbend told me tomine doesnt start until my pedal is just about all the way outi double checked to make sure my mind wasnt playing tricks on meyou guys are running single discs right? i wonder if the difference would be the extra thickness of a dual disc being the extra disc and the flywheel plate between the two it would make sense because cutting a half inch would compensate for the extra thickness theni would think that somewhere in the instructions it would mention something about it thoughmakes me kind of worry if my clutch is even fully engaging when i have the pedal all the way out??:broke:seems like thatd be doing a number on my fingers and throw out bearing real quick like:banghead:i'll call southbend again tomorrow just to verify before i do it

im not sure who i talked to but they asked where my clutch pedal sits in relation to the brake pedalit sits slightly higher... they asked how i had the master cylinder adjusted... i left it where it was which was a few threads out to compensate for floor matsthen he said i would have to take the slave cylinder back out and cut about 1/2 inch off because it was pushing too far and thats why the fork doesnt come back far enough until way at the top of the pedali thought that to be pretty odd considering one truck should be the same as the nextthe only other thing i can think of is maybe it only bothers me and everyone else just gets used of itjlwelding does your truck start to move just about right away when letting up on the clutch?