Alexio Auditore

Thanks for all the replies. I have one more thing to ask,( for now at least) I am thinking I have a issue going on with my edge ez. It's been doing some weird things I notice under light acceleration where the pedal almost becomes dead but when I give it just a hair more throttle, it's like I'm giving it a lot more throttle( this is with it turned onto 3, the highest setting which it's always on) Also had a couple times cruising freeway and the motor surged for a sec then went back to normal. I am thinking it's the edge, I turned it to one and acceleration seems much smoother. I am probably grasping at air, could a faulty edge cause other electrical issues to flare up?( I'm probably really grasping at air to be honest)

If its dropping speed signal it triggers a p500 code right? Doesn't tell you heat one but at least let's you know it's one of them? Would the bad bearing cause the MOSFET to keep failing tho and have to get repaired?

Ok. So I called modulemaster and they said they could try it again or just give me a refund. I took the refund and they said just let them know if we find something that is causing it to keep failing and then repair it afterwards. So that was pretty awesome. But now I got to keep looking deeper into the truck to maybe find out the problem. They said sometimes they get modules that do what mine does and they just don't know what to do. So the speedometer, odometer, and cruise control all work through that module, and they all work fine,( I did notice on Friday I was traveling highway with cruise on at 65 and the truck bucked(( sputtered quickly in rpm I guess is a better description)) twice, which I've never had happen before). What other things go through the module that could cause the MOSFET to fail? Been a long week, sorry for the late reply.

Well, I called modulemaster and they said to install it and that maybe it was just a bad MOSFET( I may not be using these terms correctly, is the MOSFET also the transistor you are talking about Chris 0.?) So I went ahead after I got home from work and installed it. Started the truck, no lights, no noise, literally drive 100ft and look down, abs light on, shut the truck off and the abs pump motor was running again. I called a relative who is a mechanic and knows a bit about the Dodge abs. He said besides ac noise, a bad sensor or failing sensor wouldn't cause it to do what it's doing. Sometimes the parts they use to fix it are junk, you don't know till you try it again, and if it fails, there is your answer. I'm calling modulemaster in the morning to see what to do next, but maybe my unit is just shot or the truck is doing something funky electrical wise. Might have to go to a dealer and maybe the scantool you guys were talking about may pull something up? Would you say that those are higher quality parts? I don't know what MM is using when they repair it. Thank you everyone for all the help so far.

Lol I'm the same. Electronics are my weakness, I don't have a bunch of knowledge about them.

Ya they honored it for me, didn't charge me for fixing it again. The thing is, even if the abs goes out again, it's not the end of the world. Everything else works. it would be nice tho to find out what is causing it to fail and have to be repaired. The other thing could be that the module is just bad and can't be fixed properly, but haven't hit that point yet.

Right. That's what I ended up doing was testing the alternator on Thursday. .03 with no electronics on, .06 with the air conditioning, radio and lights on. I sent the module back a week ago and just got it back from Module Master in Moscow, Idaho yesterday. I will call them tomorrow to see if they have a idea what happened, but the paperwork said they replaced the MOSFET in it again. The .03 is passing right? .06 seems a bit high but I remember reading here that with electronics on the ac noise goes up too. Ya that's what happened. I got it back from being repaired a couple weeks ago, then while driving, the abs light came on and the pump was running again, even with truck off.

Ok. Ya I heard buying a new one is ridiculous. Well, I'm guna check the tone ring just to make sure it's ok still, but then I'm not sure what else can be done. I just don't want to put it back in the truck and have it go out a short distance later.

Good to know. I learn something new everyday on this site, thank you for the clear up. if it's not getting the correct reading from the tone ring, I'd get a code that only the dealer can read (which I read on here was like 6000 dollars to buy one myself). So if it is a bad tone ring, it will cause the mofet to fail in the module then?

Ok. I'm going to have to look at it then. So if a tone ring is bad, would that cause the module to have to get re-read repaired then? I got the module back today and they replaced the mofet again. ( I think it's a relay inside?) I'd think if the the sensor wasn't getting a correct signal from the tone ring, it would just give a code and abs light would come on. I'm just trying to understand how this all works, I appreciate all the help you guys have given.

Ok. So there will be a total of 4 then, one on each wheel?

I'm not familiar with the tone rings. Are they on each wheel then? What's the best way to check them?

Well I got my multimeter today and tested my alternator. 0.03 was the reading I got with electronics off. 0.06 with air conditioning, music, and lights. I'm banging my head against the wall trying to figure out what else it could be. I don't want to get the module back and put it back in the truck just to have it go out again. I tested voltage and it was 13.7 at the alternator too, so I think the alternator is ok. What else do you guys think it could be? I don't think it had anything to do with the repair either, it worked for a few minutes and then the light came on.

Passenger wheel tone ring? What is that and what can it do? The ac noise can fry other things too right?

Ok guys I need some input. I just got my abs module back from Module Masters and put it in the truck and what do you know, no abs light, motor isn't continuously running, Yes! So stinking happy. Drive about two miles, getting off the freeway and look down and see the abs and brake light on. Crap. So I get out of the truck,open the hood... The motor is running. So module Masters says they will take of it, they didn't hassle me whatsoever, which is nice. But my question, could something be going through my electrical system and causing that relay or whatever it is to fail? I'm guna order a fluke ( either 114 or 115, not sure what would be better) and test the alternator for ac noise. But can it be another issue? Two years of the abs light staring at me, I want it gone for good.

So the only quad I'm seeing for sale is the adrenaline iquadBT. Is this the one you are running @Mopar1973Man? Or is it the v2?

24 to 25!?! I have tried all I can to get good mpg. Best I've seen is 21 going 65 from CDA to Payette. I'm definitely leaning towards the quad already, not sure what else to do for better mpg either. But look forward to hearing more results.

I see. Did you get a hot rod vp44? And what are the injectors your getting?( Not sure what the 7x .008 means) I feel the same way with the smoke, I honestly could care less about rolling coal, in fact I'd rather not have it smoke, but rather would have clean horsepower and good mpg. I'm just curious because I'm probably guna get a programmer when I get my fuel psi fixed, (using the edge ex now)and the comp was my first choice. But I'll just keep an eye on your thread and see how things change when the warmer weather hits the inland Northwest and summer diesel is out.

I don't know if someone already asked this, but has the quad been worth all the headache @Mopar1973Man ? Were you seeing better mileage and performance on the comp? It seems like it's been a pain.

is the pick up tube different from the draw straw? if so, do I need to get a bigger one then? I was also curious if the fuel lines between the lift pump and injection pump should keep pressure after the truck is shut off? no problems with hard starts what so ever, but I notice there is no pressure that the gauge is picking up just before I start the truck? Maybe I should replace the fuel return valve just because, though I understand they don't go out often? As for the fuel lines, are the quick connect ones any good or should I just stick with the normal push lock ones? Sorry about the overflow of questions, I want to know all I can about this before I tackle this project in the spring.

thanks for the replies. ill take a look at performance supplies and see what I can find. I think I ordered a 3/8 line from the filter to the injection pump last year from Vulcan, but that didn't make a difference. I have 234000 on the stock ip pump, I want it to last as long as possible for sure.

do the half inch lines come with it? fittings and all from tank to pump?

ok. ill start pricing things out then, ill come back and post the results when its done. thanks for the help.

what pressure do you see with the new pump now? could the 100gph just not be enough for the power I'm putting out?

Thank you. So what type of pump did you upgrade to and did you keep the stock size fuel lines through out? did it come with the things to mount it to the frame? I'm debating on upgrading from edge ez to the comp box, but I think ill wait till I get the fuel pressure thing resolved.