Sycostang67

I’ve been running a pretty similar setup for about 2 years now, S357/S475. I have studs and my transmission was built to handle 650hp, I opted for the billet input. Also have a billet single disc low stall converter. The Quadzilla never lets my boost get too high on my daily and tow tunes, usually keeps it under 30psi. Honestly I don’t like letting it get any higher than 40 which my party tune would do if I got crazy. My main concern is my original head gasket with 265k miles, even with the studs. I usually drive like an old lady anyhow. I would think as long as you aren’t beating on it that it would hold together ok.

I’m running a moog track bar, beefier than the OEM unit. I was told it had a tiny bit of play but wasn’t in need of replacing yet. I swapped it anyway while I was tearing everything else apart last weekend. Lifetime warranty ftw.

I had scheduled an alignment the week prior. I get one done anytime I mess with steering parts or anything that could affect the alignment. The shop I prefer is about 20 miles away so I mainly didn’t want the truck to behave poorly during that time. I took slower back roads as well, just in case. No issues though, got it aligned this morning. Truck is quieter now and takes most bumps a lot smoother. Just pulling into my driveway is so much better than before.

I’ve had to do that before but my control arms are so far out of adjustment now that I’ll let the shop handle it. I had planned to reinstall the adjusters in the same position I removed them from as I marked them beforehand. After the sawzall, torch and grinder, the marks were lost. Rotating the alignment bolts also made getting the upper arms back in easier as well.

I got a set of OEM style control arms from TRQ. My truck still drove fine, but I could hear something knocking around under the front when driving. I couldn’t feel anything loose though. I figured the bushings were all 24 years old with 263k miles so they were probably due, same as the sway bar bushings. I was told my track bar had a tiny bit of play and I knew my damper was leaking but I had replaced those parts before and used the lifetime warranty to get new ones. It goes in for an alignment on Tuesday, I got the cams out of whack from having to cut the one bolt. The truck still drives straight but my steering is crooked.

No worries, I totally understood where you were coming from. I’ve come across plenty of posts like that where someone was trying to sort a problem like mine and there was no resolution. We got everything done today, did have to sawzall one of my alignment bolts out due to it seizing in the bushing. Thankfully they are stocked at most parts stores. As for my grid heater, found power to the relays but not the heater. I swapped in the new relays and I think it’s working now. I am once again seeing the random voltage drop on the battery gauge after starting the truck. I can also hear the relays clicking in accordance with the voltage drop.

Haven’t gotten to it just yet, the truck still starts which hasn’t helped to light a fire under my butt yet, lol. I am planning on working on it today though. Got some friends coming over and we are replacing the control arms, track bar, steering damper and the sway bar bushings/end links. I figured I’d pull the intake tube and check the relays while I’m at it.

Not yet, but I will when I get the tube removed. Thanks for the diagram, I was also wondering where the fusible links were so that’s quite helpful.

I checked the connections on the heater and everything is tight. I did pick up some new relays as they weren’t terribly expensive. Took me a minute to find the ones on the truck. I’ve had this thing almost 10 years and never noticed them before. I’m gonna have to remove my intake tube to swap them out though. My dark horse boots are a huge pain to remove and install, more so when they are cold. I’ll wait for a nicer day and then drive a bit to warm things up and hopefully not have to cuss at the truck too much.

It’s a two wire hook up, grounded it on the floor by the seat and ran the power wire to my extra fuse block under the hood. I wanted to hook it to a switched power source so I could leave it on and it would warm up when I used my remote start. I need to clean up my under dash wiring though, got some fuse taps and such and don’t even remember what they are for. It’s on my expanding list of things to do to my truck next year.

My new Mustang has spoiled me with its heated seats but unfortunately I can’t drive it in the snow. I found this universal seat heater at work and decided to give it a try. It was pretty easy to install as the factory covers kind of snap on. I didn’t even remove the top cover, just opened the bottom and had enough room to slide it up inside. There was plenty of space on the switch panel for the new switch as well. It works great, I put it on high and it heats up quickly. I usually drop it down to low after a bit though. It costs about $70 and took less than an hour to install.

It didn’t so much as stall as I let go of the key as soon as I heard the first sound of combustion and it wasn’t ready to go out on its own yet. It started the first try today as I made sure to hold the key a little longer until it was practically running. There was no voltage drop though, initially or even after it was running as I know the heater continues to cycle until certain parameters are met.

No, I was standing outside the truck reaching in to start it so I didn’t see the gauge. I’ll check it out tomorrow.

When my truck is plugged in and has sat all weekend, it will fire right up. I went to leave work today, the wts light ran for a normal amount of time but the truck fired for a second and died. It did that 3 times, the 4th time it fired up and ran a tad rough for a moment and then smoothed right out. I figured if I was losing fuel prime it would do that all the time, especially when sitting for extended periods.

It’s at LMC truck, runs about $80.