joeld79

replaced camshaft position sensor and problem solved, just my luck it crapped out at the same time the vac pump did and i found out after vac pump is back in. What a tough lil spot to get into -_-

nothing is jumping out as obvious so far tho, hoping someone has had a similar situation and resolved just took it for a drive -starts right up -tach works -lack of some power -bluesmoke still -turbo whistle is more noticeable than normal -idle around 850rpm think it was around 750 normally -some occasional knocking sound -code p1690 still present

ya im used to bluesmoke for maybe a min or so after first fire up, but im straight smoking out the neighborhood now I havent really started that yet, im under the assumption it has to be something more obvious than that considering it ran fine even when i limped it home with no power steering or power brakes. Im thinking it has to be something i could've knocked loose when i was replacing the pumps or along those lines

really need some help with this code/ rough idling/ blue smoke issue Truck ran totally fine before vac pump sheared off input shaft ears. its never thrown a code or check engine in its life with 190k it sat for about 2 months due to me starting a new job and not needing the truck for work I started the truck a couple of time during that duration just for love until i pulled the vac/ps pump 2 weeks ago put it all back together and fired it up to have those symptoms listed above really need my rig back in order, got laid off due to the bs coronavirus and picked a couple houses to frame in the mean time much appreciated

Also it blows blue smoke, the vacuum pump gear has nothing to do with the timing correct?

will get a better video today, but idle pops up in rpm slightly and weird clunking noise that sounds similar to clutch trying to engage or something I just went through the whole injector ordeal they are good approx 80k miles on them all new rings

Any ideas why the truck would run like this after replacing vac and power pumps? Video attached <blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/woPoAfy"><a href="//imgur.com/a/woPoAfy"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script> https://imgur.com/a/woPoAfy **** why is this being such a ***** to upload a ******* video

Any ideas why the truck would run like this after replacing vac and power pumps? Video attached https://imgur.com/a/woPoAfy

full on alarm or just 3 honks?

ya that's what i did essentially Just the long way lol

Wish i would thought of taking the switch from the CTM ground, less wire and soldering but oh well. I like that solution IBM but I also like the option to arm the alarm with the horn for parking in sketchy areas.

Does the horn work when the alarm goes off though?

https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Sport-headlights-Spinning-Bearing/dp/B016Z592I4/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Dodge|40&Model=Ram 2500|2780&Year=2001|2001&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016Z592I4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm gonna get a lot of hate on this post but here was my solution, budget friendly, single parent 2 kids. I went with LED bulbs, and aftermarket housings. I achieved all this under $200 and have a good cut-off, I do have some dark spots but the overall brightness trumps my other halogen attempts. What I did was find a LED bulb that has the diodes at the same measurement or with-in millimeters of where the stock halogen filament was located. Tested light scatter with some buddies and have never received a flash from on coming traffic. I can also see at night again.

Necro bump.... Thought I would add another solution to this problem since my foil double wrapped CTM was still giving me 3 long honks upon unlocking. For the last year or so I just pulled the horn fuse But......I live and work in Seattle, home of the worst drivers in the country, I NEED MY HORN So I came up with this solution....in cab switch from the fuse box under the hood, turn off at home at night, turn in the morning when I leave, neighbors don't hate me, stupid drivers get the honk......profit

well the one advantage to living in idaho lol

its just a simple micro solder procedure, mine works fine still no need to get worked up about it lol

http://siaelec.com/product-category/brake-control-module/ was like $60 when I had mine serviced a year ago

send the module to get repaired, module master or there are others

Got it fired up, I had the 1,3,4 injectors cracked but wasn't tightening them as they got fuel at first (derp) Drove it around after letting it idle for a while and she rips! No more dirty Edge injectors that looked like they'd been in about 12 different trucks and smoked like a chimney Started her up this morning after sitting overnight and she fired up faster than a ***** in church Thanks fellas!

So due to time constraints (single parent 2 kids) and against the advise given above I installed my old injectors. They looked in really good condition and I need my truck back for work. I primed the system via key bump 10-15 times and its starts to fire right away but then dies quick. I repeated this 10-15 cycle of key bumps 3 times with same result. Just curious if I should keep trying this sequence or if that is a sign something is stuck? TIA

Ya they been sitting for 7 plus years, maybe ill order some rv's

figured i wasnt alone on this issue thanks for the info, gonna look at putting the stock injectors back in anyway, let me tell you the looks i get from all these tree huggers in seattle

So far... checked all fittings for tightness and added extra fitting clamps or tightened put system on air and visually checked all connections (nothing found) replaced check valves at head and VP44 replace filters trouble shot with pureflow tech support to eliminate airdog pulled bed to inspect tanks and tank connections and air test fittings Have not replaced o-rings so does that fuel or air leak into the head?

Ok I have been trouble shooting a hard starting/long cranking issue for almost 2 years now, owned the truck since 2006 2001 24V HO AIRDOG the week i brought it home and ever since Edge Stage4 Jammers I think injectors Newly rebuilt NV5600 (ChaCh$$$ng) 196K nose downhill, no problems level, takes over night nose high, takes a few hours to require a priming sequence necessary to start the truck, worse in the cold weather Lots of informative helpful threads out there and I have been through them all Last night pinched just at the VP44 inlet and just after the T return lines from the head and the VP44 and closed the lines This morning it still would not fire until priming sequence Where would the fuel be going? Is this a sign of the VP44 going bad? No codes stored TIA Joel