portlandareae28

- Truck has no codes - The truck is making 17psi fuel pressure at idle, but drops down into the 10psi range on a good run. It has the basic fass replacement pump. I know that long term it will need a real fuel system, but in the meantime is there anything that can be done to try and squeeze some more out of the current setup? - Steering looks pretty good except it appears the box may be leaking a little, it does have that intermittent option of the power steering going away and if you blip the throttle it comes back to life. - I would guess the injectors have about 150k on them, If I do them I would want a little more towing power. Maybe just a modern day amount of power if that isn't asking too much and won't require 10k in modifications to hold up to it. - Oil and trans changed by me already, will tear into the axles next weekend and hopefully can find 2 good seals for the Transfer case it appears to be puking a little out of the front and ALOT out of the rear. (underside of the bed is really clean back there) - Brakes feel good, will tear into them as soon as I can to get a closer look. - AC noise I still have alot to learn, electrical is not my forte' but with enough reading here I think I can get it done.

Is there a checklist if you will of things specific to the 24v that you guys would start checking off when taking on a new to you truck? I am thinking start with the most basic of basics. thank you in advance!

I am talking to a buddy of mine who is telling me to put an nv4500 in it. Workhorse and easy/cheap to maintain thoughts?

Yes I am over filled

I am now contemplating spending the money on the tools and making the time to do it.

Oh boy... it’s always something ?

Worth it to go southbend with fairly stock truck (nv5600)

What should I plan on spending for 3rd and 4th gear syncros? I will need to have a trans shop do them as my life currently doesn’t allow me the time.

I have an edge comp box already, not tapped currently. Truck on 5x5 untapped can hit approx 18psi of boost on a hard run, problem is fuel psi dropped to 10 on that run. So fuel pressure needs to be addressed before anything. But seems like it should make a little more boost than that, no? I did look and there is no boost elbow. It is stock air box and 4” straight exhaust (nv 5600). Does the comp box need a boost elbow? Or if i am tapped will it fool the boost? Sorry for so many questions but coming from the 7.3 I don’t feel I have a good grasp yet on all of this.

So are you thinking 1/2” the whole way mike?

To clarify also than, where all will I be changing to 3/8” fuel line?

Seems I should also be learning what fuel lines are in the truck. Even with DDRP should I be going to 1/2”? And is that from pump to stock canister and from the canister to the vp?

Ok, so my truck has just the upgraded fass (or air dog can’t remember which) stock replacement pump. Clearly it’s not enough. I don’t foresee this truck ever having more than maybe a 75-100hp injector if it even gets that. Which fuel systems should I be looking at? I am editing here because I found Mike’s write up that explains it all. So I believe my pump is the DDRP but I don’t know which version, is there a way to determine this?

Guess I better start with more fuel pressure. I see 10-11 on a wot run.

So what is the routine to avoid the big 4?

Is there an overall consensus on tapping the vp? How does it affect longevity, etc.?

Yes they will fit, and would allow you to upgrade to third gen brakes if desired

My seat heater for the drivers seat just flashes the high light when I try to turn it on, I am sure this is telling me something. Does anyone know what it is telling me?

When you say brace for gearbox, are you talking steering gearbox or transmission?

well, driver's side shock is loose at the top, definitely needs to be replaced, everything up there is seized up, maybe I can put a pipe wrench on the bottom and the impact on top and tighten it up until the weekend

I guess I am not knowledgeable enough to understand the benefits/differnce of the T vs the Y steering, why do most prefer the T?

bumps Per suggestion I hjave rolled the truck back and forth with the front wheel and not seeing any play in control arm bushings, though do see some compression of the spring and the shocks I would be money are done. I am hoping to tear into the shocks this weekend. Not a master at all of this so hopefully something stands out

Thank you, I may do that to the trackbar I just pulled out, but the truck literally has a new track bar in it currently with about 200 miles on it. Fighting a clunk in the floor and I can see the loose steering components that need to be addressed so I want to address what I know needs to be addressed for sure and than attack the rest. I am just quickly tiring of all of this so I need to be learning and attacking to get the steering/clunk dealt with and back to liking my truck again :-)

Okay, are you thinking stick with Dodge Parts? or is auto parts store/moog a good replacement in this situation? Also I bought all new bushings for the front sway abr and links. I pulled the links off the bar and the bar is out from under the truck but the links are IN there and don't want to be removed. Is there a method to getting them out?

I just took all that off of the truck :-) so since I am new to alot of this, do I need the whole tie rod for any reason or can I just do the ends?