portlandareae28

That 285 setup is sweet!! I think I am aiming that direction too.

2000 to work and cruise?

where do you guys buy parts? I want to start getting my list together.. Still debating on tire size for 3.55 gears and a manual.. Towing 60mph truck is at 1350-1400RPM which feels like it is lugging to me if I need to accelerate to get ready for a hill or to pass, but if I shift down to 5th it puts me up around 2000 which seems to not be a real happy place for the cummins. I am towing 10k, nothing crazy.

315's look great and tow fine as long as you want to tow at 70-75mph Wonder if the front dually wheels offset is different?

3.55's as well, and yes seems like 5th gear is on top of the torque curve and 6th gear is under it. What size tire are you thinking? I wonder if 265 needs a spacer in the rear? will the adjustable track bar and 3rd ten bracket eliminate the harsh outer edge tire wear? Can I run the 2010 T style steering without 17" wheels? Sorry, this is all new to me..

4th beer in, going to try this right now.. than I will try and figure out pictures too :-) it works nice, and I even wiped off the excess, pictures in a bit, sun is way to bright right now..

I have a 2001 dually currently leveled with a block and on 315/75/16's all the way around.. It leaves something to be desired from a drivers standpoint to say the least.. I am contemplating whether to go to a 285/75/16 or maybe even down to a 265/75/16. I like the way the truck looks leveled but have heard it could require some extra attention to keep it leveled and have everything be "RIGHT." She has 335k miles on her and it is time to go through the whole suspension. will likely start with the front end and I am hoping to gain some knowledge here on what stuff is a MUST replace (and what parts), what is a "I would do it if I am in that far" and what should be checked to be sure. I am definitely going to get leveling springs if I decide to keep it leveled and throw the blocks away. I am open to thoughts on the whole concept as well as advice on what I am in for.. Thank You!

should we start a new thread "education of fuel system?" I did draw straws and 5/8" fuel line to my prepump filter, pump and than final filter to a regulated return fuel system on the 7.3 I had. I like to understand what I am doing, but I do want pressures like you guys are seeing, so I am assuming that fuel tank is coming down huh?

OKAY OKAY OKAY I am an IDIOT!!!!! Since I wasn't going to tap the pump, when I tore it down I coiled up that harness and tucked it up toward the firewall/drivers side fender. GUESS what, the ground for the Edge is in that same harness......... COO KOO COO KOO, ALL is working great now.. Fuel pressure is 15-16 at idle, hard wot pull up a hill (empty truck) it gets down around 10psi, I will be keeping a close eye on this and start learning about real fuel systems.. THANK YOU guys for the quick responses and all the help so far!!

Hi, trying to finish up my gauge install, wondering where you guys tap into dimmable power for your lights?

So far I don't think my obd scan tool reads voltage on all of the DTC's... Electrical is not my friend. Ready to drive this thing down a boat launch backward. Come on, vp44 swap to what? I need to find a way to simplify checking these codes as at this point reading the threads is Chinese to me.

I am guessing I don't have multiple bad sensors, hopefully can check some grounds, etc. tomorrow.... I have codes pointing at 2 sensors side by side, and I have an intermittent oil pressure gauge which is right below those two gauges with codes.... Seems very suspect huh? Also no power to the Edge now. Its not tapped on the pump, but shouldn't I see lights on it?

fuel pressure is 16-18psi at idle, never saw it drop below 14 but it still can't get out of its own way. so I think it must be is some sort of limp mode. only codes I have is P0238 and P0237. Thoughts?

so it had stored codes of p0122, p0123 (remember I forgot to hook up the apps when initially starting up) p0237 and p0238, also had p0216 and p1689. I erased them all and turned the key back on and still have a p0237 without even running the truck (fuel gauge not quite done don't want to run it quite yet.

I will go through it with a fine toothed comb, I did pull the fuel bowl to clean it all up and change the banjo bolt so that I could add the sensor line for the gauge. I don't think the key trick reads both the PCM and ECU in this truck I had a p0122 and p1693 first, than plugged the apps back in and now just a p1693. Going to get a code reader and see if there is anything else in there. will report back any findings.

I will finish the fuel pressure gauge this morning, didn't even want to start it til it was done but I ran out of time (replaced all the intake plenum gaskets, so got further in than just doing the vp job) and had to move it out of the garage (won't fit all the way in).. I have the Fass DDRP (was on the truck when I bought it) I suppose it could have died, but even with the codes last week the truck ran great, so seems odd that it would suddenly just not make any power, but definitely possible. Is there any limp mode on these trucks? My oil pressure gauge started getting finicky last night too, would work/not work, loose connection or soaked in diesel connection maybe.. I am going to get the gauge in and rehook up the batteries after being unplugged with the key on all night. Will check the VP plug connection and calibrate the apps just to be sure.

yes I believe the boots on the intake are good and tight, I only loosened the top to get it off and was sure to check both when putting it back together.

pump is in the truck is a dog, won't make any boost, seems like could potentially not be getting enough fuel.. thoughts? Also oil pressure gauge has become sporadic.. Idles really nice and smooth, fires right up but won't make any boost when I drive it. Even free revving it in neutral its slow to rev. The key appears to be in good, I can see it in the slot and the pump went in very smooth, could have hand tightened the 15mm nuts on the back of it just about.. I left the batteries disconnected tonight, I did forget to plug the apps back in when we were bleeding and trying to get to restart, maybe a calibration issue? Share anything you might check please.. The truck idles and runs very smooth, just no power.

still happy with your 1/8" air hose?

so will the sender and everything fit right under the fuel bowl? DAP didn't mention anything about the remote hose kit that is in the isspro instructions, and I don't have it.

I have an isspro ev2 electronic gauge (not mechanical) do I still need to be concerned with the water hammer pulses? I got a fuel snubber needle valve too but I believe that is to fight pulsing in the gauge.

thats what I was thinking, so why subject the new VP to low fuel pressure if I currently have low fuel pressure? I know that I have to tap the feed to the VP44 so guessing a full bleed of the system? Is there a way to check without hurting the new VP if I change everything?

I will look into that. I have all of my parts here for the vp swap this weekend, got an isspro gauge (fuel pressure) as well. I was thinking about installing the gauge before I do anything to see what my fuel pressure looks like on the current VP, any thoughts on this? Also going to look for the Mopar1973man ccv thread so I can get all the oil off of the front of the engine, radiator, etc..

which brake do you have Michael? when my truck is down I drive an '09 dually with the turbo brake, but my dads old 01 I believe had the Cummins brake on it which I think he really liked. I would love to have an exhaust brake on my '01.

I am headed back to not "so cool look" :-) I think I would like to find a set of 17" wheels for the truck so I can put the 3rd gen front rotors on it. Would be nice to have a little more braking. How many hours do you guys figure for a first time VP44 R&R?