Zacharynels

Oh OK I understand what you're speaking of now. I could see how cotter pins would work good in that situation then. Drilling and replacing with a castle style nut? I just feel like when people talk about tig welding the nut on there has got to be a better way, but from what it sounds like. It may not be to bad.

Mmm I see what you're saying about it being like an air hammer on the nut. Why would welding be the only other option? A good thread locker and maybe something beyond the nut to keep it from coming off? I'm sure this has already been thought of over and over though. I am gonna read that article tonight and find out a little bit more, because On my nv4500 and my getrag I have never had any issues with 5th. Personally I really want to get to get my transmission gone through but am scared I wont be able to tackle it, once it's dropped and open on a bench in front of me. On the other had though, $1,500 doesn't seem that expensive in the long run. I will have so much money in this truck just to get it back to stock factory reliability, before i start my real build. Mine is 4wd and I try not to but will admit I have had it under 2k a lot thinking about getting that perfect 45-50mph economy. For the most part though it is more high end 5th gear. You said you can fix you're 2wd nut in half an hour, is this with tranny knowledge or just working on your own? And, how much different is the 4wd as far as the fifth nut goes? I am interested in trying to tighten mine. Hmm that is interesting, I have not really heard much about the purple besides people are running it more and more. And, trust me I am NOT interesting in anything breaking either ha It is definitely well worth the money, just have to take care of some other expensive parts first.

How many miles have you been running the royal purple? Just curious. And, what does everyone recommend as far as flywheel and pressure plate?I think I will be going with A Valair clutch as of right now, single disc most likely.I have never had any issues with losing fifth gear or even driving in fifth gear. In fact once in gear, fifth runs just as good if not better than any or all the other gears. The only thing that kind of bugs me with my 5th is: While in Neutral (or just not moving) the gear shifter will not go into fifth at all. When I am driving and shift into 5th it works ok, still doesn't feel all that smooth though. What does this sound like?And, as for the Torque King I would have already ordered mine if I had the extra cash or knew I was going to drop the tranny at all. So far I can't afford either :banghead:

I have heard a few guys talk about running this. What is the advantage? Besides the fact that it's 10 bucks cheaper, which is nice. I've also read a lot that, changing the oil weight from Mopar part # 4874459 75W-80, to 75W-90 has a negative effect on the Carbon fiber synchros? They are not actually brass they're bass stamp stainless steel on the nv4500. --- Update to the previous post... I somehow missed this post in the bustle of replying, I just checked out the thread and those look extremely nice and well done. I know a local guy who does some real good fabrication work for these trucks I don't know how much he charges though. 275 is a good deal. I want some

This isn't a MOPAR product, I repeat NOT mopar but this is direct from the Amsoil site, if you insist on running mopar lube it'll be 23 still: http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?GroupID=213

Huh. I don't understand why they added the can then. Maybe it was because, when I first got the truck, the A/C only worked if the RPMs were climbing. I knew there was some sort of vacuum leak. I followed the vacuum line that goes under the battery for the cruise and found that the line was eaten away, that fixed all vacuum leak as far as I know and the A/C has worked ice cold and perfect since. I just ran a universal T to fit all those lines, I will try to find the actual part for it soon and trim up those lines. Now the cruise control does NOT work. I am pretty positive it is a busted clock spring and I'm sure it is also the cause for the Airbag light, and the fact that the horn and cruise do not work. That is another thread tho I spose haha.

So then the way, I have the lines Ted is the correct way (minus all the line slack)?

Does anyone have a good link for some tranny fluids? Cheapest I found was 4 quarts for 54 bucks.Liquid Gold is right.

Ah, I see. I am going to do a full brake job on the pads and shoes, and take the calipers apart to replace any worn piston seals or get rid of any residue; I think on one side the caliper piston maybe be sticking. Does anyone have a picture of a 95 under hood, what is in place of that can then?

Front main looks to be bad, timing cover gasket bad, injectors leaking a little, ect. Oil hitting the harmonic balances and flinging off the fan pulleys, hence the oil mist everywhere. Just got back from my mechanics, he's gonna price out a day of work, that includes A LOT of engine oil cleanup and getting the radiator out along with alternator. Once, it's DE TARED we will continue on with the oil leaks, fixing and making sure there are no others. Then front axle is getting all new seals. $$$ Labor $$$Hopefully the writeup on the bill wont be too harsh. Need some money for that CLUTCH!

Ah, well I am not sure what to do, because I'm pretty sure that can just hold up vacuum so that when the A/C is on and I hit the brakes my brakes wont be hard, as a rock, to push. The vacuum is supplied for my CAD, Cruise, Brakes and HVAC. But, to be honest this is just what I was told by another 2nd gen owner/mechanic, I cannot say anything for sure. The vacuum works fine the way it is now, but the brake pedal tends to get hard like there is not enough vacuum and I have had some close calls, even STANDING on the pedal, once the vacuum builds the wheels lock though. And, as for the numbers thing I wasn't sure if you tried uploading a pic and maybe it wasn't showing on my computer or what. That's why I posted those pictures to see if those numbers were in relation to the lines I had showing in the pic. Thanks for keepin up on this so far guys! --- Update to the previous post... I'm pretty sure it stores vacuum, It is bolted to the fender wall and has only vacuum lines run to it. The one's Ted up in the picture were all attached to the fittings on top the bottle.

I know what you mean, mine drove about as straight as a mountain road before I got everything fix. Still need to adjust steering box a little.

I can't tell what these numbers are referring to. This is a picture of how my setup currently is, I can't tell if these lines were put on correctly or not. Into the vacuum bottle.

I think it is about that time i dive into the brake systems on this truck. There are a few issues I have and have not addressed. Firstly: My front brake pads seem to be wearing unevenly, unless the previous owner changed one without changing the other... I want to get all new pads and shoes. I also want the brake lines all flushed and bled with new fluid. I do not own any brake tools, at all. What does everyone recommend I do about this? Should I try to tackle the brakes all myself, or should i take it to a flat rate shop?Secondly: I noticed that my ABS module, that runs into the metal lines on the driver-side of the truck, has two wires that currently are NOT connected to anything. When I bought the truck the previous owner had it on a toggle for some reason... I don't know why he would do this but he did. I removed the toggle, the power, the fuse and the ground he had rigged up.I know this pulsates to activate the ABS system in each wheel. And, that is about ALL I know about it. Does anyone know where and how this should be hooked up and what i should do to check to make sure it's operating correctly?And, lastly: My brakes and my A/c were both out awhile back and I finally narrowed it down to the vacuum line underneath the driver side battery, which had been eaten away by battery erosion. I did a temporary fix on the line, that goes into the rubber elbow but I need to know how to properly fix this vacuum line. Any advice? In the process of fixing that I had to T up the 3 vacuum lines that go into the vacuum reservoir, upon putting them back into the reservoir I noticed something didn't look right. Can someone please show me a picture or direct me on how to properly connect the hoses and where they come from and go to, because I feel like mine are not right.

I recently had to replace almost everything in the front end of my truck.Are you doing any kind of front end lifting or overall suspension lifts? If yes then i strongly recommend getting an adjustable track bar.And, not a stock style adjustable bar.Doing this job without an impact wrench could be very difficult also. I did a lot of the work without any airtools but when it comes to pressing the old BJs in and out, you will need it. Lots and lots of penetrating lube and anti seize will do good for this job. I used a really good, online, step by step set of directions. I tried locating it, with no luck. I will keep looking for you.Also, you can get a tool loan from Advanced Auto or other autoparts shops. They lend it out for long as you need it, with nothing but a deposit on the tool. You may need to get a little creative when repressing the new BJs in. schedule 40 pipe works well for making custom presses.

Interesting, I have no fuel pressure gauge and no means to test my fuel pressure, without the help of my mechanic but I think I may be having some low pressure issues and think it may be my overflow as well. I made a writeup on cummins forum awhile back about the Tek Tork valve and everyone seems to love it and Don is a great guy from what i have heard and will help people get their perfect overflow parts. I will be ordering the adjustable overflow, as this is what i made the writeup on. I will post up how it works out for me. Still wanna get my gauges and make sure everything is where it needs to be yet.Need more $$$!

I don't think it is blowing the dipstick out of the tube. I was just looking at everything. There were a couple loose timing cover bolts. I hope the other ones aren't loose, that cannot be accessed without pulling things. Checked the oil pan bolts most were tight. I vent tube is very dirty on the outside I can't see through it, it's clear red tubing. When the truck was warm and was idling I looked down to see that, there was something coming out, I could barely see it at all, until sunlight hit it, then I could see a slight haze coming from the tube. Cleaned up some more oil, gonna watch the same spots to see if I can pinpoint this a little more... Damn oils supposed to stay IN the truck not get all over everything! :banghead: Haha

I just realized we share the same last name Mike ha. The previous owners of my truck painted it this color... (yellow) and had a flat bed on it. I'll do a before and after on members rides, and will keep updating it. My paint makes yours look GOOD I can't access the members ride thread because of my limited membership. So here it is. When I bought it from NC: Cut the flat bed off, I brushed on muriatic acid to the frame then painted it. Got leveling kit, tires and everything else on, one more fender to replace then painting body. Work in progress. And, here is my old one. http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b92/KillerDestroyer/DSCF0302.jpg http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b92/KillerDestroyer/DSCF0308.jpg

Ha that is exactly what I thought. Seems strange that I cannot find a seepage or drip in reach of the fan, but it could be very minimal and just over time collecting. If you ever find out anything more about the vacuum pump causing change of pressure in the crankcase let me know. I'd be interested in finding out more about that. Something that is irregular? Either way tomorrow I am picking up some parts and will be working on it; I will check everything at the same time and see if I can't get smart or get lucky! Appreciate the info ISX --- Update to the previous post... I will check that as well tomorrow, sometime. What would be my worst case scenario here with this vent, anyway?

That is what I'm all about! I love working on these things and can't get enough of it. Thank you for the warm welcome and I will post up a picture of Project FUGLY this weekend. All the body work and hopefully paint is on the way. Seems like a shame to post before then...

I am just hoping there is no internal components that are worn to far. I wont be doing anything reckless until I have a spare truck anyway . Mine is at 237k and so far the tranny is the only thing I've yet to replace fluid in. That will be done this weekend for sure. Ha must be nice to plug and Southbend or Valair are looking like the two most promising as well as affordable companies. Does anyone have the exact fill amount for the tranny fluid, because I hear there are a few variables that can change that. Any word on that?

I am skeptical about doing a rebuild as far as money, time and experience with transmissions go. I am not a transmission tech by any means, I'm sure I could handle a nv4500 with some good direction though. I think I am going to go with a 13" single. Long as it's 400 peak and decent drive-ability. Any brand model ideas?

I scrolled through the 12v forum looks like you're pretty much the post commander Got the 6 new write ups pulled now for the afc videos. I will be sure to try and get some people 12 or 24 valvers over from other sites to contribute to the forums.

That is actually why I asked about the tube. Because I have read a few write ups INCLUDING one or two by Mike about vent tubes causing oil to hit the fan and get up in the radiator and clogging it with enough dust and dirt to cause cooling issues. I obviously don't have the vent bottle because it's 12v anyway. It's very frustrating because it is causing things under the hood to get a slight "film" of oil residue. Yeah it is dropped on the back left side it looks like. HMMM

So after much frustration and $$$ My front end is all squared away and the steering is as it should be. Tie rods, ball joints, Sealed adjustable solid track bar, leveling kit, wearable joints ect. Along with all the interior and body parts replaced. Would like to do control arms to match the 2.5" leveling spacers angle but back to the point on hand... I can finally start spending on the tranny/performance. First off, my Nv4500 is in decent shape, drives very well. But is not brand new anymore... Before I go out and try to find a clutch should I be dropping the tranny and checking everything before thinking about a clutch flywheel or anything else? I read this http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/drivetrain/129_0608_rebuilding_nv4500_transmission/index.html writeup on rebuilds and talked to a guy I know, he said I'd be looking at about $1,500 for rebuild. Plan on making this a 350-400horse daily driver truck could possibly pull a few trailers maybe 5th wheel too. I need to get some suggestions on what I should do to this tranny so that It wont clunk out on me! Haven't lost one yet and would love to keep it that way