wh82

Yes, couldn't really get to or see the gasket surface, thought this would be easiest to just 'clock' it at the time, I was wrong, turbo ended up coming off for repairs because the bolt snapped with no effort. Yep, put oil in the top of it, spun the turbine a bit, did again a few times till the oil quit disappearing in the feed hole.

Hoping someone with more experience knows what to look for here. Last Feb I replaced my turbo, didn't get a chance to change the oil line so it had a slow leak, finally got around to replacing that, however to get the gasket remnants off, I attempted to rotate the turbo, should have just pulled it off instead. One of the bolts snapped. not a warranty-able item so I paid the shop I bought it from to fix it (drill/re-tap) During this process, I changed the exhaust manifold gaskets because one of them was leaking. After all of this, I suddenly had a howl at 2-6psi... thought it may be the exhaust touching the frame, so when it was in for other service, I had them bump it over while they were under the truck. Didn't drive much since with all of the weather... but the other day I drove it, and not only do I have the same howl from 2-4psi, but at around 3 psi and 1400 RPM I get what sounds like when we were kids and put an index card in the spokes on our bicycles... Of course my exhaust has that Cummins fart sound of a straight pipe but never heard these howls and fan-ish sounds before getting those exhaust manifold gaskets done... are these just normal sounds that I'm only now hearing because of the increased flow?

well yeah, you're not going to have the concern I had which nobody has really answered except maybe: I didn't want my small little 75's to not have enough velocity to spool my turbo because I increased the manifold's size... For now I fixed my leak, noticed the stock has shrunk a bit, but not enough to cause a problem just yet.

Just cause it's a stock part doesn't mean it's original ;) I have no idea to be honest its got 1 bolt in the back that doesn't match and is the one that came loose causing the leak... so seems like previous owners did something. Running ~180k miles.

I'm ok if the performance stays the same, just don't want to hurt it. higher reliability parts are always welcome.

I see a bunch of debate topics about this brand vs that brand, but I have a more specific question. It looks like I'm needing a new manifold Currently stock, looking at the ATS 1 piece PulseFlow. Of course as sales points they claim: more performance, faster turbo spool, lower egts etc... My question.. which of these are true and which are false? Anyone have any real data? I see on a couple of posts that people claim actually spooling slower and loosing overall power using a more open manifold over stock? At what injector size does a larger manifold actually make sense? Runnin DAP +75hp injectors and an S300 turbo. Should I just hunt for a stock replacement?

Ended up going with Mishimoto due to a lot of people complaining about the difficulty of install on the Vulcan ones (less forgiving on the bending). Ended up not being able to get the spring compressed enough on the bottom clamp on the drive side of the intercooler... so put the nut on without the spring :| all other springs are on. so far so good, holding boost at lower RPMs now.

Forgive me if this has been asked and I can't find it. I am having trouble with my blend knob... Starting at around the 12 o'clock mark, one 'click' to the left and it will freeze you out, one 'click' back to the right and you get roasted out. Very Cold or Very Hot! no 'blend' at all... 2 different controls do this, really always has since I got the truck but I'm getting annoyed by it.

Since DAP added on this response feels sponsored

Recently been doing a lot of work to my truck... Most recent, new 62/65 turbo to match my injectors, doing really well. However when the engine is hotter. I have a boost leak that's not there when cold. Found a pinhole leak in 2/4 of the intercooler boots. Rubber heats up and lets more air through that hole I guess. Anyway tried epoxy on them, temporary fix, then found new hole. So I'm looking at new boots and see that there are a lot of options. VPMAX - 219 for the boot kit silicone Mishimoto - 264.95 for the boot kit (looks rubber?) crazy carl has a whole boot and pipe kit for 265 which I was considering since plastic pipes seem like they will eventually be brittle AFE Banks, Pusher all have options, full pipe kits from 376 up... I've searched (although search just broke on this site when I tried to look up intercooler boots) and found a lot of information and opinions on the pipes.. metal is always better than plastic over time. However, what I really want to know is about quality of the boots, are any of these brands better than another? What do you guys (who've replaced theirs) run? Thanks!

Just be ready for looks from the Prius, Tesla, and Subaru drivers as your truck keeps running while you walk away. Can't count the Karens that have yelled at me. I just roll my eyes and keep walking.

What was this? the Answer to what mopar1973man is running or what you put in? I thought you ordered that GXE Screaming Eagle...

What do you have for turbo / exhaust on that again? I don't see it anywhere. and yeah, admittedly I was also pushing it a bit keeping at the 80mph speed limit, slowing down cooled it down obviously. but used to pull my 5th wheel at 90ish with 1300 max on the old stock injectors.

Please keep us posted, after my +75hp injectors I was hitting 1350-1400 for 30-60 seconds on i84 between mountain home and twin pulling only 2000lbs, now I'm afraid to throw my 9000lbs behind it. I have yet to change exhaust and turbo, I want compounds or VGT, but everywhere I call really keeps recommending that screaming eagle you got. I tell you what though the +75's woke my truck up, no more stuttering from a stop, just goes even without the boost.

So is the gxe actually worth replacing the hy35 for?

Man cement is hard to find right now, I just got a guy to finally give me a quote, and he starts next week, but my project was tiny. My injectors were $350 (I didn't do new, I did rebuilt Bosch bodies from DAP, I hope I don't regret that) I Desire more info! It's either that or the GXE... I don't plan on breaking 400hp, its a towing truck, I just don't like saying 'go' seeing a huge cloud of smoke and waiting for the turbo before I can even move, which somewhat went away with the new injectors.

I wonder what turbos all these guys are using on the trucks around here that scream boost at idle and instant acceleration even towing with no smoke at all? Thats what I'd like.

This is where I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with you... squeezing 270A out of a small case, maybe (bearings and heat), but a properly designed large case alternator is not going to drag that much. It's waaay more efficient especially at smaller loads. I had one on my Dakota, going from 136A to an alternator that puts out up to 180A at idle and 270A max made that truck have way more power! Why? Well, 1) more power available for spark (yeah yeah diesel doesnt have that) 2)more power to run the things like the 2 AC fans (inside/outside) but 3) LESS DRAG at said load. My truck went from the AC blower inside dogging down at stop lights to blowing really strong, could bump my stereo as loud as I wanted (yes I love my music) and could burn the tires. Now that that alternator went back for repair (don't EVER disconnect the battery lead on a PCM controlled alternator, did it by mistake and the PCM full-fielded it frying everything) my replacement from the box store just isn't able to keep that truck running and I'm back to charging the battery every damn night. GRRRR I don't have near the amount of toys on the diesel that I do on the Dakota, but still a good upgrade (maybe not for my wallet). And on both trucks I have 100% LED everything except headlights on the RAM Anyway, what I'm saying is that increased load increases the drag, and a bigger alternator designed right will have less drag at the same amount of current. Did you know if everyone turned on everything in their houses we could actually stop water flow through a dam... well, in theory, we pop other components of the grid first... (don't come at me for over-simplification) It's all about the load you actually put on the alternator, not the mere presence of the higher capability alternator, it actually goes the other way. Anyway, what would a mid-life crisis engineer who missed the same damn ground 6 times know? LOL

Gotta let me know how that GXE works out, that's the one DAP wanted to sell me but I keep looking at the ATS A3000 or a compound setup... I want instant throttle response vs the turd off the line.

My freshly installed 7x.0085's from DAP just passed emissions at 8 out of 40 (used to be 1 out of 40) in Ada with the Edge JWA CTS2 on 0.

I have lights, big stereo, 2 way radios and when pulling, 2 extra batteries... Really should get myself that 270Amp I've been putting off. 180 doesn't seem like an upgrade but my original Bosch also wasn't putting off any more noise than the replacement so may take the duralast crap back and throw that bosch back in. My ground mod that I did years ago killed the minor AC noise, also did bigger grounds "Big 3" minus the bigger alternator lead.

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2001/dodge/ram_1500/body_mechanical_-ar-_trim/winter_and_bug_grille_screen_kit.html https://www.amazon.com/WF923-1-Custom-Winter-Front-Screen/dp/B000766T5M Winter cover with little doors for keeping it warm in the cold, and a screen cover for those summer months for stopping the bugs. It doesn't fit perfect on 2001s, i questioned their measuring ability, but doesn't look horrible, and works just fine.

fortunes are relative :D Got a new $250 alternator and a new APPS out of the deal, and all I wanted was injectors cause the truck ran like poo lol.. I guess the alternator can go back, I was looking at an upgraded at some point, but that requires new charge leads as well to support a 270AMP... I'm being told, the truck runs, don't touch it... which is sensible, but yeah

So... for those that follow the 'W-T' mod, that one... mines a bit different as I did mine years before his write-up but the same, all those wires that used to merge into the single 8 guage flowing across the top of the alternator were merged into a connection to a bolt that is more direct to the driver battery. That happens to be the one that has the ECM ground and I believe the VP ground and a couple others in it... the loose ring terminal was jittering around from the vibration.

so, uh... yeah, I *THINK* found my issue and uh... its embarrassing seeing as how I am one of the people preaching the importance of grounds... one of my hard to reach bolts had come loose and me being in some strange health states lately had to actually force myself to find the end of that specific wire... just drove it hard for a good hour, so far no hiccups, so I'm going to assume I found it. Also, no more APPS jumping (pretty sure the old one was still questionable) but the new Timbo is a solid 0% occasionally hitting 1% but not all over the board... I'm going to do one final calibration now that i fixed the ground as the APPS can only hit 95% full pedal right now. How was that bolt loose and how was one of the ground cables completely disconnected? ಠಿ_ಠ