wh82

While continuing to track down leaks / bad hoses (I broke the one along the firewall) found a second check-valve right before it goes in to the HVAC. So I have one on the main line, and one on the HVAC. Cruise would be shared if I had any other accessories but I don't so I'm going to leave it how it is.

Not true. Mine works just fine after removing the screen, the box under the hood just stays on whatever settings it was on. Of course at that point you are right, no gauges. Some of the models of these for other trucks do break when the screen goes.. My neighbor has the older Edge JWA on his duramax, that gets completely in the way of all computer signals. And when it locks up, the truck dies, very dangerous driving down the road. Mine however when it has locked up does not change the driveability, I can reset just the screen by pulling the OBD II cable and plugging it back in as the computer driving the screen is a separate computer than the one controlling the engine. For the lock-up reasons alone I wish I hadn't gone Edge but at that time the Adrenaline either wasn't out or not well known. Edge was also much simpler to use and cost the same as all 4 guages I was looking at on-sale so I got it originally not intending to use the programming. Smarty didn't have a shift-on-the-fly model that i could find, any system that I have to pull over for 10 minutes to change power and eventually burn out the eeprom in my computer and/or leave a trace of such activity is really really unappealing. Edge's biggest flaw is their cheap under-powered touch screen as: 1) Locks up at least once a month 2) Doesn't always react in the right spot (does if you use a plastic stylus or tip of a pen) 3) Slow to react when it does 4) Pressure sensitive 90's style touch screen not the capacitive screens we've had for 10+ years on all other devices. For the price this should be a nicer touch screen that's way more responsive given whats available to hobbyists for cheap and that the CTS2 is only a few years old. The JWA CS (with buttons) reacts a lot quicker and smoother and doesn't bug-out.

A while back I created an article with known high-output alternators. @GSP7 at that time sent me a link to nations starters and alternators... and a lot of their website pictures have pictures of alternators from DC Power Engineering (I think they may resell and also re-brand them) So I excluded them from the list as they didn't appear to make their own. ex: https://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/13988-180HP-High-Amp-Alternator-for-2004-2005-Dodg-p/13988-180hp.htm I use DC Power Engineering alternators in all of my vehicles. only issue I've had is when they are cold, they sound like a supercharger whining on my gasers... (I wish)

Don't know how true it is but someone once told me that they have a better spray pattern / atomization of the fuel too.. ?

Thanks for the info / video KATOOM, had actually seen it, but again, this isn't a blow by discussion. lets re-focus on the question. "Where should the system hold the vacuum? after this check valve? Or should it also hold a vacuum if i were to hook the gauge straight to the pump?" Trying to verify nothing is wrong with the pump itself due to the fact the vac supply line doesnt hold a vacuum. even though its a brand new hose.

Funny you mention the blow by, thats what started me looking as one night while at a stop light I noticed lots of white smoke or vapor of some sort right in front of my headlights, pulled over to find my breather just spewing it as I have not extended that tube yet. Later while troubleshooting, found the disconnected vac supply. so now yeah, just trying to test everything to make sure its to spec, hence the question of where should it actually begin to hold pressure

Thanks @Dieselfuture That's where I was leaning too but wasn't sure if there was a check valve that's supposed to be on/in the pump itself. Seems like a lot of hose before the valve. Also, 2WD truck, so I don't think I have CAD? Anyone have a known good pump with a gauge that could confirm?

Hi, very specific vacuum pump question, have not been able to find the answer here or any other site / google. I've read a lot about failing vacuum pumps and re-sealing them, but what I need to know is this.. I do not have the vacuum brake booster, only thing my system feeds is cruise and hvac. After my supply line fell off the pump the other day (rotted hose) I hooked it back up. I decided to replace some of the hoses and noticed there's a check valve right before the input to the hard line on the firewall... was not working as expected so replaced. I also grabbed a vacuum gauge and tested. Several sources say the system should hold a vacuum well after the engine is shut down, mine drops fast. My question is this: Where should the system hold the vacuum? after this check valve? Or should it also hold a vacuum if i were to hook the gauge straight to the pump? If after the check valve, I'm good, if the pump itself should also hold a vacuum... well then time to move on to those re-seal topics. Thanks in advance!

General feedback for this harness... * IAT cables need to be about 6 inches longer and the coolant cables about a foot longer to follow factory harnesses. -Or- provide an instruction sheet of the intended run location. In exchange some of the inner cable could be removed if wire length for the signal is an issue. * For the $150 an extra foot, fuse, and ring terminals instead of butt-crimps should be provided to hook the led wires to the battery. Of course this is my opinion but I always do very clean wiring and have a method which may not follow the methods of others.

I think i'm gonna start a chart in a new thread with all the HO alts I know about.

No, didn't feel I needed it. So there are a few: * DC Power Engineering * Mechman * Irragi Many many others... I found them before I bought my Cummins because my Dakota was lowering blower fan speeds when running my AC at stop lights, until i accelerated, then the fan would blow faster... the stock alt on that truck only put out enough current at idle to run the computer and spark... after changing my truck actually seems to have more horsepower higher throttle response. so when i bought my Cummins and i found the AC ripple in my alternator and heard the heater blower sag when the compressor kicked in I immediately bought one for it. 200 Amps at idle is a lot of power vs ~30. However at ~650 bucks I still have heartburn over the purchase... The company has had mixed reviews, and it did take a long time to get my parts. The other companies have mixed reviews as well but some of them cheaper with higher claimed output. I just wish the Multiple alternator kits were available for our trucks and not only GM

Ouch Look at the link I just posted in my edit. evidently there's 2 ways of doing it.

When I bought my aftermarket High-Output alternator and had the option to buy an external regulator module that would allow me to adjust the voltage higher than the PCM would. Just found out that my 2004 dakota is PWM and my 2001 Cummins is field current as shown in the diagram @Mopar1973Man posted. Interesting info from the MFG of my alternator(s): http://blog.dcpowerinc.com/2011/09/09/how-pcm-controlled-alternators-work/ I am in no way saying that this companies alternators are good or bad... they definitely do what I need them to, but have mixed feelings otherwise.

I appreciate the info on the fuel and have read that dozens of times before. But what about the computer. I mean I still have fuel pressure, granted not enough, and I immediately break the 2000 limit in OD when using any mode on the Edge so it really sounds like the issue in the dodge TSB is effecting me or am I wrong? Does anyone know who can program my computers in the Boise area to make sure its solved vs saying 'Well it's solved in this version, and that's the version it says is loaded...' Or does that version not fix it on CA trucks..? which goes back to the question CA/Non-CA are they they same?

Yeah, that's why I got the Edge product, had all the gauges, after my first lift pump failure I got really Paranoid hearing how commonly they go out, and the part that really angers me is that the guys who installed it knew that I planned on upgrades in the future and didn't suggest an upgrade, that $500 could have gone towards an upgrade but still not wanting to spend almost another $1000 without knowing that the pump / warranty are 100% worth it. This stock pump idles at ~13psi and then drops to ~5 under load in stock mode. The pressure sensor is threaded into a banjo bolt (replacement style from edge) Still doing research, but the main problem I don't think a fuel pump will solve at the moment is the 2000RPM limit in this computer, and of course the question of if a CA / Non-CA truck are really any different?

Good afternoon everyone, forum newbie here. Looking for help with an issue on my 2001 5.9 Automatic. I've owned this truck for a couple of years now and had various issues fixed. But one that I can not get fixed is a complete lack of power towing. I have a 27ft 5th wheel thats only ~8000 Lbs. The truck alone with me and my passengers / family weighs 7980. So, I'm just around 16,000. Going down the highway, especially starting up any grades I rapidly loose speed. I've towed as long as I have been driving with other rigs and know that when you loose momentum its likely not coming back. But to the point... Even on flat ground or a 1% grade, around 65MPH, my choices are OD locked out and almost 3000RPM or OD on and 2000RPM, the 2000 though is the MAX, it will not go past that. While doing research I found TSB 18-024-00 which talks about an issue almost identical to what I am experiencing (my engine is in the date and serial number ranges mentioned). Armed with this knowledge I went to the dealer to have them flash the relevant parts to fix this issue. The technician stated the computers were already at the latest software and there was nothing they could do for me. But happily charged me. I didn't believe them so I argued and went back stating "I asked you to flash it, just flash it" he said "Its the latest version so the computer wont let me flash them" The only things that came of this interaction were getting the 3cyl/high idle software enabled. The technician continued to state "This is a California truck, we can sell you an Idaho truck, brand new"... NO! I've done tons of searching and can't find if there are any differences between CA and Non-CA for 2001, I know all the new trucks are the same due to the new emissions controls. I know I have the issue mentioned in the TSB, is there somewhere other than a dealer that I can get my computer force-flashed to the latest software to fix the TSB? (Without buying EFI Live or Smarty) ? The other claim by the technician was to just use the Edge Juice w/Attitude CTS2 that I had installed in the truck to override it and that it would not hurt the engine or the transmission. I had originally only installed it for the gauges (best PID coverage for the money at the time), but it came with the tuning features for only $100 difference, I originally had no intention of using them. I want my truck to be able to tow in mode 0 (stock-ish) without pushing it. But yes, surprisingly, changing to even mode 1 immediately breaks the 2000RPM limit. Lift PSI is 5 to 7 at this time. Extra info: Things I've fixed: Torque converter surging due to misplaced ground. Stock replacement fuel pump (bad decision I know) Things I've upgraded: BHAF. Edge Juice CTS2 Things I'm trying to fix: The Limit noted in this post (Lack of Power), Low boost / excessive black smoke even on stock mode... need to build the tester. Things I'm wanting to upgrade: Injectors, I read and hear a lot of opinions here +50, +75... I want fuel economy,and power, not trying to hot-rod this, its a tow vehicle. Fuel Pump.. Ive heard good and bad about many brands and am caught up in a brand war here in Boise, one dealer of both FASS and AirDog said they've pulled AirDogs out of the box that didn't work and can't get them warrantied even before install. The other dealer of both says the same about the opposite brand. My friends who's owned these and is a mechanic, but not diesel said just to go with the in-tank conversion and not an expensive setup...