rogerash0

Ocean, I've played with the programmer a ton. I play with it almost every time I drive the truck. I had it on power lvl 1 to get a lot of TV input, and it was shifting nice, but the truck was slow. I finally got that play out of my cable, so I can run lvl 6-7 how I am now again. With my small injectors I need more power down low honestly, but I can feel when low-end fueling is rich and slows the spool down up. Im running lvl 3 lowend now, I had it on lvl 2 for a long time. Its only with the lift pump pressure up to 24-25-26psi that lvl 3 on setting 7 feels do-able now. Brand new II SO VP ran exactly the same as my current. I run timing on 2 because the truck drives much smoother with a nice linear pull of the chargers. Higher timing feels like it makes a deadspot around 1600-2200rpm. Ive driven through Spokane a couple times. I definitely would have stopped by to see you, the truck used to drive a ton worse. I'll be out of here come 1 Nov, so unfortunately I dont see myself making it over there again (ive got a lot of packing still left to do) Thank you for the offer though, I appreciate it. Pepsi, it sounded to me like your TC locked at 43mph. I think your right that Im likely aruond 1300rpm at light throttle when it locks in 4th. I can push the pedal but its very lathargic and the whole time until it comes up 10mph, my EGTs are through the roof. Like 1400-1550 depending on how hard I push.

No, he's such a busy guy I havnt. Ive spoken to Rick and someone else. Every time Ive called that shop those guys are pretty barky on the phone and seem like they wanna get off in about 5-10 seconds, likely because everyone in the country is calling them all day long, they cant get anything done. I know how that feels at work. I did schedule a day to come by their shop on 6 or 7 Nov. One day is them, the other day is D&J. Hopefully they can help me out then. Im driving from Montana to Virginia, so I'll stop in Indiana and drive over there those two days.

Crazy. Im running the digital gauge setup /w sensors from Edge. Bit too spendy, but atleast they are good for 150psi or whatever it is. I can log them, etc. Not the best, but its what I got. Ill fill out my sig. Shouda done it sooner anyway. I have the Hamilton 182/214 cam. mid-range if I understand it correctly. I called Industrial and they sell the 0.70 AR tubine housing for the 68mm wheel for $550. Its special order only, so you gotta call it in.. Its their Viper housing, which they say this about:

@Dynamic yeah I agree. Its so hard to know who to go to.. I figured Firepunk was safe bet, plus Im from the midwest (Indiana) so thats why I support the boys over there like them & D&J. Still, seems like a lot of half baked good and schemers in the industry. Like every mechanic thats ever touched my truck, for example. @Dynamic Its a full Firepunk Comp I trans from their shop. Came on the pallet with the flexplate and TC.

I would shift manually, but every time I've done it if the truck is above idle rpm at all, it hits semi-hard. Hard enough for me not to keep on doing it. To roll out of the throttle for 5 sec plus for the rpm to be totally all the way down, zero zero power at teh wheels, then shift for a smooth manual shift, its essentially counter productive.

Crazy on the TC business. Good to know. That's probably the most tangible information Ive gotten out of reading/talking up on the TC. I wish my truck shifting in the meat of the power like yours at light/med throttle. I often wonder if it doesnt because they must compromise to make it shift like a dream (like it does) at WOT. It's always shifted like a bmf at WOT.

Thanks, Im well aware its a .70 T3 foot -- I cant find it anywhere from BW at all. Made me think the turbo isnt designed to run that housing. You saying the valves are the choke point for the intake really makes me want to put my stock elbow back on and test same day same conditions the difference. I will one day. Also makes me wanna run the 0.70 housing on the exhaust because if its not a choke point then there should be a lot of gains to be had /w that smaller housing. My drive pressure currently is highest around 50psi. My boost will be 43psi @ WOT while drive will be 43-45psi, and then drive slowly creeps up to 50psi, it hits that around 120mph (per gps), and boost will inversly fall at the same time down to around 37psi. Point being, with the 12cm housing, Im sure drive pressure will be up. What is safe on a stock head? What is safe with arp625s? What is safe with arp625s and o-rings? It was handy to see on CF that your running Infinite Performance injectors. I know you mentioned them to me before. I know TFaoro was talking about 115psi drive pressure I think with his 62/65/12 & a 75/83/1.10. Whew. I thought that surely would be enough to cause some kind of havoc. Btw I feel guilty for plaguing your thread but your a trove of information so its hard not to ask :x Btw, btw, thats a good proper burn out :D

Oh I see the title is Light Throttle on the first youtube vid you posted. You just wrote Medium throttle below it. I got mixed up there. Watched it a third time and u say small light throttle in the vid. What is small light throttle to you? To me its 10-20%. I could turn the tuner down and use more throttle, but then I dont have the power when I want it.

Under light throttle I get a bad bog between 50-60mph on the cluster when TC locks @ 50 in 4th gear. It's hard to overcome if I dont go from 15-20% throttle to 40-60% throttle to make it downshift. I only get stuck in this situation badly when Im at light throttle, 10-20% mentioned, and/or if the truck is cold. If I accelerate hard the truck may not lockup til 60mph and by then Im past this point. Remember my tach is a bit off, 50 on the tach is more like 43 or 45mph. When you say medium throttle are you talking 1/3 pedal? I've started to have my APPS % up on the edge display to verify the % throttle Im telling you guys is accurate. Its pretty accurate to what I thought it was all along. Your oil pressure looked to stay pegged even when you let out of your WOT run.

Ocean, I have one spring on the end of the TV cable down by the tranny. Im pretty sure the one spring I have is the correct orientation based off other videos and photos I have seen. I have been wondering about the VB all along.. 2k rpm shifts would be great, thats right in the meat of the power. Its been hard for me to tell, because its a Comp I tranny.. maybe its setup for racing primarily. I should have called in and gotten all my ducks in a row rather than ordering straight through XDP online. I ordered through XDP because it came to roughly $5000 for a $6000 transmission. Core return was pre-paid, I got 10% off, shipping was cheaper/cheapest, overall it was the best deal I could find par none. Nice post Me, I get what your saying, I suppose to what extent are the shifts shorter, is the big question? The only way to find out for sure might be just to change from my current stall to a stock stall without changing anything else to find out.

Unless someone buys these DDP 120's, which no one did when I listed them 2 months ago, its gonna be 6 months or more til I buy em. I gotta pay down some debt first so I can live with myself. Selling my AD165 and Edge JWA on FB was a joke, the edge guy returned it because of paypal, and the AD165 guy paid then asked for his money back the next day. Total waste of time and shipping

Oh ya, I very much received the sentiment you described based on his posting's. Thats why its a shame really. I hope you guys know I should be packing my house because I leave in two wks, but Im glued to the information here & there. The addiction is real! I see jlbayes is running infinite performance injectors. I sent them a msg

haha, well thats the question. does it just have to hookup nasty after a burnout & regain grip to go to hell, or ? I dont know how they typically break, quite exactly. @jlbayes - Seems like you are a big supporter of the 12cm housing on the s300's, because you have seen them perform and not bottleneck. I want one, Im sure it does do loads better under 2500 or 3krpms, but the only ones I can find for my SXE 62/68 are by DAP for $500 w/ long actuator or $550 /w short actuator. Why does BW & everyone else not make a 12cm housing for this turbo? Also it sounds like DAP may be taking SXE compressor covers off of SXE turbos and retrofitting older comp covers with the 2nd gen outlet. Sounded like JKidd acknowledged it and downplayed it. Is this the case? Cumminsdog was talking about it and hes banned. Imagine that.

@jlbayes - I read in TFaoro's thread on CF that you went thru an output last fall, posted on 09-15-15. Thats on your auto right? I sprung for the billet output when I bought my trans and have often wondered if that was money down the drain. At what HP did you break your output?

ty. i was having a hell of a time finding the thread. found your thread on CF with the mystery vp44 diaphragm and other interesting things tho.

Thanks Moparman. Ill find the thread. I found my paperwork, and they were 290bar from DDP new, set to 295bar later on. See attached

Ya, we were just on a fresh D&J motor with fresh "new" injectors from DDP. I assume the motor was built with the SO compression ratio, but honestly that one slipped my mind (sad to say). I know they used OEM pistons, non-coated. I do have pics of the pistons installed with the head off if its identifiable. When I stop there in 4 weeks hopefully I remember to ask. My injectors, 99% sure they were tested to 280bar, because they were recently set to 290bar by Lenny. They went back twice. First time they were faulty. Second time I was having smoke from hell problems and hard starts. I took a photo of the paperwork that came with them, and it may still be around here. It had the old pop pressure & new. But overall I agree with ya. However I was on the side of the road adjusting my lift pump pressure with the adjustable AD2 base and trying out another spring AD sent me, and the problem did cease to exist with higher lift pump pressure. I still remember the folks who stopped to ask if I was ok. I wasnt interested in running my lift pump pressure at >20psi, so I did everything I could to increase flow to the VP. No 90* fitting into the VP, high quality AN fittings, no T's for fuel pressure gauges, sump kit, etc. Even ran three different kinds of hose, all 1/2", just because I wanted to go with some high quality stuff second, third or fourth time around.

Cool Dynamic, I appreciate the info. Do you have a shop, company FB page, etc? My low end performance is always a struggle because it shifts out of 1st gear at 7mph, if I dont floor it the thing just doesnt rev out and was up-shifting so fast with the slack in the TV cable you mentioned. Even now without the slack it still jumps into 2nd gear at 1500-1600rpm, or maybe 7-10mph. Barely putt around a corner and its already in 2nd gear. That makes the smoke pour because ofcourse rpms have now dropped, and its keeping me from installing the 120hp injectors I have, which is keeping me from the performance I desire/expected/paid for if you will. So I appreciate the advice & insight dearly. Firepunk told me on the phone its "slightly below stock" stall speed. On their site they show for the TC I have, an option that says "3FP (1950 or 150 below stock) **Most Common**". Im surprised, from a novice's perspective, that 150rpm below stock stall speed makes that big of a difference? It does, or you were thinking I had a 1700rpm low stall converter, or ? Just trying to make sure we are talking about the same things, so my expectations of it being able to improve spoolup & smoke are realistic. https://shopfirepunk.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=81_83&product_id=120 I think my TV cable now has slight preload because the cable is tight, making my pedal quite (or should I say: very) firm. It seems the only way to adjust the cable's position is under the hood by the "apps box". It didnt look adjustable where it hooked up the to TV lever arm at the trans like I expected it to. Is this normal or did I fail to assess the situation properly?

Hmm ya. That's still compelling but I wasn't even at 50psi of boost when I had the problem.

FP told me I quote "yours is slowly lower than stock" . Phil told me mine needs restalled since I have compounds now, but wasn't specific as to what he would do... Gave me a weird vibe.

Thanks, sounds like I've always had a low stall. When I bought the truck originally we would drive 30-35mph down the main road if the engine was warm, with zero throttle. Thats if I got it going up to 25mph, but it didnt take much throttle input to do that in the first place. I say that confidently because 30 is the speed limit on base, and I would meet or exceed that from a dead stop at the ID check at the main gate every day. Now my truck does about 15-20 with no throttle input if the engine is warm. Goerend talked about the low stall being more efficient and so on.

I don't quite buy that theory moparman, no offence. Not that I'm ignorant or unwilling to change my mind.... and it makes sense, but the truck not dying with high vp inlet pressure told me it qas more of a pump problem. I was only pushing 43 or 48psi, I'd have to check my logs at home.

Interesting. Thanks for the good tip. How do others solve the cavitation problem?

Any way you can put into words what changing converters did for ya, from low stall to stock stall? In my mind I cant hardly imagine the difference in the seat of the pants feel.

I was using the drawstraw that came on the truck when it had the AD100 on it. Went to sump to see if it would fix, but to no avail.