rogerash0

our trucks can be funny beasts; loose battery terminals (even if not very loose) can cause this. Mine were tight and the problem you described was slowly coming back, so this weekend I put new battery cables on and the problem is mostly mitigated, again. It still could be a little smoother, I think. I have a stock stall converter showing up soon, so next thing is swap out the converter since that was on the agenda anyway.

I could make a video now of it @ less than half tank, go run it WOT, you'd see 8psi minimum, fill up tip-top, shoot again, and you would see probably 12psi min. It shouldnt vary, the same airdog 100 never varied on my truck before my 53 block cracked and I got a new engine from D&J Precision Machine (which btw has smoked oil since day 1), but my new setup has always had pressure fluctuation issues. Been trying to remedy it for a long time now. I've been able to sap the pressure really low, down to zero. Stalled the truck so many times had to buy a new starter. Bled the lines a billion times. Several new sets of o-rings on all banjo bolts, injectors, new injector tubes twice. Had the problems with 50hp injectors DDP 120s and F1 Diesel 220's. Sump or no sump (actually used 2 different sumps). Old harness or brand new harness. New II SO VP or old reman VP (ran identical). Gas cap on or off. Old airdog 100 that always held 15-17psi steady all day, new 165 4g & new 200 4g. Airdog 1 base or Airdog 2 base. Tried three different water seperators and filters 2,6,10 micron. Three different sets of fuel line. Three return valves, one brand new. Two different sets of fittings across the entire system. The problem was only mitigated somewhat with the higher rate pumps. Further mitigated by running high pressures like 30psi, however I could still drop it down to 8 with a full tank, and say down to 6psi with above half a tank, with the airdog 200. That was a best case senario a wk ago. Now after calling again and them telling me to lube up the rotor on the back side of motor, and having ran each of the three motors various times to say the least, with various different length pressure springs (cut or non cut), different check balls (viton or nylon), I took the motor alll the way apart and put it back together tight but not retard tight, and Im actually able to go full throttle at half a tank or less and not kill the truck with my tune set to Extreme. Odd thing is Im running their "30 psi spring" and im seeing 20psi at idle with the nylon ball. With the viton ball I was seeing 30 psi at idle. Both of those readings /w full tank of gas. That's systematically making one change at a time.

Mine is working better after I took the pump and motor (the whole assembly) completely apart, and cleaned everything with carb/electrical cleaner and put it all back together with the o-rings and bearings lubed liberally with motor oil. Something tells me the electrical motor attached to the georotor or whatever its called, the o-rings in there, put together by the mfg, is the source of the leak. Maybe the o-rings are old, maybe the supplier sucks, maybe they wernt lubed up, maybe the surfaces arent or wernt immaculate. Ive been fighting it for roughly two years now, and this is the first time I've been able to go wide open at half a tank of fuel and not kill the truck or damn near kill it. Lowest pressure I recorded today was 9 psi with my 200 4g pump, that was just below half tank of fuel.

My old AD100 has the screen. My 2 year old AD 165 4G doesnt have the screen. Me thinks they ditched it for the sake of people's troubles.

Mine bucks like a mofo when TC tries to lock at "50 mph". I quote because my cluster is probably 8mph shy of 50 when it reads that. Its the reason I want a TC switch installed. It would be great to cure this without needing to use a TC switch full time!

Ive got a 98.5 Auto with a Comp I trans, without TM does the truck fuel harder off the line in 1st and 2nd gear or are you primarily interested in disabling it for hard boosted launches, >10psi?

Makes me wanna drive up to see it when it's done and see how it drives

Taking my tablet inside made the vehicle profiles update. I had it linked to my phone prior, vis wifi, and was surfing the net on the tablet, but never saw the prompt. There was just one little grey icon to the right on the profile beneath the one I've been actively using, that I had to click to update that (irrelevant ) profile. Once I did that the profile I had been using also got the notification symbol to update, and when I reactivated it, it downloaded the update. I had never heard of or knew of vehicle profiles needing to update like this before. Thanks me

I know app and ver underhood are separate but wanted to letcha know I had updated it all. My tablet with the app is not connected to the internet, altho it was when I updated it. I have never seen an update prompt. I have reselected the profile after looking under the quadzilla only option. Just did a reboot and hooked it up to the net and still nothing prompting me to update any vehicle profiles in that menu or not in that menu.

On the vehicle selection lave the "v2 Dodge 1998-2002" profile still shows Version 2.5 under it when I updated my quadzilla box to 2.7 and the app to iQuad1.9.41. What gives? The only profile that days Version 2.7 below it is "V2 Quadzilla only test2"

Oh boy I don't know why I didnt think of that. Since u say that I don't think I can run it, lol. No way I could trust someone's library's for that device with my life lol. Basically today I stalled my truck by stomping it to maybe 50-75% (more like 50-60% I think) throttle, just 0 to 30mph, and I let out too quick bc I didn't think I was in it that hard and it died. No turbo flutter, but I had to crack the lines and bleed to resume driving. I've taught myself to let out slow, but it's pretty annoying .....

I'd like to incorporate this into my truck but I've never used an Arduino before. Any odds we could get a written statement or video on how go about incorporating the files in the downloads section onto an Arduino and onto the truck? Ie. Where & how did you mount your Arduino? I've downloaded the files but have never ran code on an Arduino before. Do I need to go Google basic steps and learn how with some simple code first or could you help me cut right to the chase?

Your not running a water seperator right? (curious as to why not) Also I thought the WIF was in the filter block, so any filter would slap on there, and plug the port or use it. No? Keep it comin

It sounds like your programming is outsourced to a third party?

Crazy, I didn't think the Json file would contain all that (since it would be static across all tunes).

Crazy, typically adding just textual information is a fairly easy/straight forward process.

I cant go out and tune the truck properly until I memorize what everything is (unlikely to happen relatively soon, which is no-bueno). Quite counter-productive when theres room to have a description of the function on its input page. Giving you a shout doesnt help me when Im in the streets needing to do back to back testing across a variety of circumstances & settings.

Even your dog knows how nice that filter housing is. I definitely wanna hear how that setup ends up working out for you. I feel like it'll be a great DD.

Way worse things could happen

Jacob I can't find a 76/87 t6 like u mentioned. Where are you getting your turbo from?

I've never seen the text box. The sliders drive me mad exactly as you describe. Glad I'm not the only one

Thanks Nick and dieselfuture, those screenshots help a lot to know for sure (what profiles to expect to see). Rebuilding tunes from scratch on the Amazon tablet bc they won't import sucks too, cause the sliders on across the entire boost table are really hard to get right in one go. There's no +/- button when your just one interger off from Target.

Driver signing goes back to XP days last I checked. Bugger with that anyway, host the files and throw a link from this site on how to do it. It looks like they rely on this site for all their guides and information, anyway. Ive made several suggestions to them thru their site since you previously told me to. The confusing part to me, is after flashing to 2.7 on the unit itself, is what profile do I then run on the phone. Both of the 2.7 versions have goofy names like quad zilla only, and do not use this. (my phone is dead right now so I cant look at the names of the profiles to quote verbatim) I just feel like the information on their website is cumbersome and not well documented. From the get-go the iquad and iquadBT is a ridiculous naming scheme. When I read iquadbt I still think apple because its got iquad in the name. I second guessed the product i was ordering & even again after I had ordered it.

I had no idea its not officially supported to flash yourself. That's a bit silly. The more power you give to the people, the better the product will be, the more popular it will be. Little things like the lack of custom tune descriptions drive me nuts. It tells you the max and min values, theres plenty of room on the screen, have a darn description of the setting's function there. Same with how small the text is, and how small the lines are to click on. The truck is a lumber wagon even with Carli shocks, I have to be at a red light to operate the tablet even on a 7" display. No, I didnt sign up to be a beta tester, I never saw that option. I have a suspicion last time when I updated to 2.7 Beta that that profile name was never updated from the goofy "quadzilla only 2.7" or what not, so I never switched over to it. Can you enlighten me as to if I need to reflash from 2.7 Beta to 2.7 Public? ie. we're there changes made?

Cool, thanks Nick. I wasnt sure if you were trying to save the pump 10% of its maximum capability for the sake of cooling or longevity. I havnt even gone 100% TPS on my setup because its pretty powerful and there's no dead roads around here. I need to solve some boost leaks before I can do that. It still drives me absolutely bonkers how I cant find APK's and update flash files for the unit under the hood on the official site. I got the 1.9.41 apk just now, off this site, but it sounds like there may be an even newer beta version with a handy feature you speak of? I cant tell by text all the time. Off to go find the update I tried to get months ago, with the status bar or what not.. All conditions must be met for wiretap to apply. This is a big help, thx