rogerash0

Your tune felt good today but I only got to mildly drive it to and from work. Going to work when my fuel temp was 98 degrees, I had ok fuel pressure at 15psi @ idle and 10psi @ max drop. Driving home, when I wanted to test the tune out a bit, I had 10 psi at idle amd it fluttered down to 5psi at 40% throttle/2500rpm. So, I wasn't able to really get on it. Right now it's sunny and 89 outside with a realfeel of 98. I feel like I'm the only one with these bad fuel pressure drops, which definitely seems heat related. I still had 13.5 volts today whilst driving home. I know the trucks voltage changes with temps too. Torque was up a lot at 2500rpm, I liked it. Torque was also up off idle, that felt nice. Smoke was up, primarily from wire tap being on from 0% tps on up. I think wire tap min set to 32% would help keep smoke down closer to zero in daily driving situations. I'm starting to think I need a battery booster pack at 15 volts or something to wire into the airdog's power wire.

I suppose that makes sense; Im just wondering why not cut the canbus and keep wiretap? perhaps wiretap fueling is messier or harder on the injection pump? Have you ever gave thought to if the quad's low throttle timing advance and high TPS input timing retard is hard on the timing piston in the VP44 with all the changes? Do you think its possible to move it too much or too rapidly? I've often wondered this and its a reason why I never tuned with those settings. Sure, it'll probably be okay, but is the gain worth the risk? (hurt pump, stuck timing piston, etc) PS I get an error when I try to hide your signature. The image isnt loading right now, and I have a 1920x1080 res laptop screen and your sig seriously takes up the entire page when I go to scroll past it.

Oh very interesting. Im surprised its wiretap cut up and not the canbus table scaled down. Does this mean the wiretap fueling accounts for a considerable portion of the total fuel delivered to the engine? Because to me wiretap was substantial but I wouldnt estimate that it accounts for over 25% of the total fuel delivered. I know I'm probably wrong, though.

Level 4 made more power in a recent dyno video of a VP truck on Firepunks dyno. I've been curious as to what level 4 does, since this guy made something like 80 or 120HP more on level 4 compared to level 5. Also the power levels are so aggravating to press because they're so small and finicky, be it on my phone or amazon tablet, I generally dont touch them.

Ah, very interesting that it utilizes the 0 psi fueling setting during warm-up mode. All along I've wished great information like this was simply on the screen when you went to input the value. There's loads of room all over the screen when you input the values, due to the way it brings up a new blank screen with a single input box. I'm familiar with the red bar coming online like you mentioned, but I still thought level 1 was valet mode. Right now Im really curious when my airdog will act right and give me proper fuel pressure. I'm tired of diesel baths after messing with that thing forever in the past. I bet if I crank it up tomorrow when its cool out, all the pressures will be normal. I threw in a new 40a 4 prong Bosch relay from Amazon tonight, and the fuel issue still exists. My pump isnt scorching hot so I dont think its on its way out.

The bucking I experienced was always related to high timing and high rpm from say a pull in 3rd gear with OD off. I have none now that my timing is low. We will find out when I run your tune.

I went to a Stainless Diesel spring wastegate. I recently ran through its paces (yesterday), testing it again at 2 turns out, 3 turns out, 4 turns out, 5, 6, then back down to 2, 2.5 turns out, 3 turns out, etc. and I write down notes and pressures observed at every setting in my phone, to include how torque feels. I think its setup best, currently. The best numbers I can get out of the S475 are about 12psi when Im making 30 overall, but the truck gauges like to move fast so those are ballpark but fairly accurate numbers. If I went out and did a full highway pull at 60psi, I think I would still see 30psi from the S475. That's what I was seeing prior messing with the WG again. Im very close to where it was previously set, so thats why I think the S475 will still make half the overall boost. -- Well there won't be any driving today probably bc the airdog makes 10psi at idle and 6-8psi barely pedaling it. It did this yesterday and I swapped the autozone relay with an old oem relay and it came back to 15psi at idle and 10psi under WOT. Now I just tried another OEM relay and same problem exists. I suspect it's a heat related issue in the harness or pump.. making a new harness from scratch has been on the to do list. Their fuse folder used to melt the plastic casing around the inside use too, so, i don't have much faith in their harness. I have all new 10 gauge wire to make a fresh harness. Fuel temp is still 112 after driving the truck for an hour, 4 hours ago.

Im loading your tune into my phone as we speak. Im on 2.8.4, which I looked in the Downloads section on here, it looks to be the latest. I dont know where I input lvl1 power/"power reduction" but I suspect its not a big deal. I set Valet to 70% in hopes that it runs that setting when my coolant has not come up to the set temp yet.

Not sure what this is. Valet power? What you said sounds good. I will add timing up top. Having too much down low is what I was really concern with avoiding due to cylinder pressure and smoke and jerkier boost characterstics.

Oh, I misunderstood the no less part. Hopefully you can see that my current setup with stock stall converter, small chargers, no boost leaks, said settings is burning mighty clean for a heat soaked summer day. In the past the difference in smoke between hot summer days and cool spring/fall/winter days (it doesnt get that cold here!) is astronomical. So right now Im bent on giving the truck more fuel, because it feels healthy but its like 450rwhp healthy, not 600rwhp healthy. It looks to me like canbus reflects that. Hopefully with the 100% tps setting I can utilize more pedal and get that other half of the fueling curve I desire. If 50-100% TPS input makes the truck blow over 3k rpm Im not sure what I'll do, pull fuel I guess? I can tell the powerband with the small .70ar housing doesnt want to exceed 3k rpm. Its wasted hot air past that. If I put the .80ar housing on then it can take hell; even Drew at D&J said the VP is done fueling past 2800rpm, and I believe him, that's where I feel it sign off/start to get weak, beyond 2800rpm. That was prior to him even driving my truck, he said that when I dropped it off.

Oh okay, I didnt realize what the ECMs fueling equation was and that it was still being utilized. In my head I thought the quad was taking over completely. On the contrary, your tune you told me to try above with heavy throttle input still has a heavy fueling table. Never the less, its going to run very similar to what Im running now, it just wont be as powerful because wiretap wont come on very strong. I'll see if it permits me to use all the throttle however, without making the truck self destruct/fall flat on its face/smoke like a train. I understand, but why can I not get 100% wiretap at 100% throttle?

Is this possible without the bottom end being lazier? Hopefully your gonna say by pressing the throttle harder the bottom end will get more fueling, and wont be lazier. I feel like more pedal doesnt matter because it will still be set to fuel XX percent at at X PSI, however it sounds like you have stated that more throttle input will increase canbus fueling.

I want to say that its still the OEM/stock map sensor. I had replaced it with a NAPA one for good measure whilst troubleshooting, and the NAPA one failed so I got a refund for it, and stuck the stock MAP sensor. I used to run fueling down around 75% starting out, and 92% starting out, and so on. I found that it made the bottom end lazier and not light as quickly, and it didnt save any smoke at all. Infact less fueling almost made the smoke worse because it would take longer to light the turbos and spin them up. That was when I had the smokier 220hp injectors and may have had a minor boost leak where the billet intake plenum met the very back bottom corner of the head. Still with the .70ar exhaust housing on. Changing my signature is some goofy procedure on this site, so I havnt updated it to the mach5/200hp injectors that smoke 60% less than the mach6/220hp injectors and are down about 30hp on the mach 6s.

I would actually like to use more throttle because it will make my trans take longer to shift, which will make each gear wind out further with higher RPM, which will reduce smoke. I have some 35" tires that are like new, and my small snow tires are getting towards the end of their life, so this will be especially useful with big tires. When I knock out two tests in the next 2-3 hours I will input your tune and take it for a spin. BTW I ran wiretap at 0%, 12% and 25%, 32% for a long time. Adding wire tap in later doesnt make it any surgier or harder hitting at all, all it does is add some power and torque. Adding it in at 32% keeps the smoke below that TPS to almost non-existant. Adding it below 32% didnt feel like it added torque or power. I have it set to 32% because by the time I step into the throttle and hit 32% the chargers are spun up, and it brings the fuel in at the right time when it can be burnt instead of wasted. Its to reduce the smoke show. Drew at D&J said my bottom end seemed unusally weak. I wonder if its because of the cam; they dont make or sell it anymore. Im confident I dont have any boost leaks due to 60psi max, very low smoke, and very strong off idle TQ at say 1300rpm. Do you want me to capture your tune on camera, or no need? If so, do you want the dash or the rear of the truck?

I made a ton of edits to my post because I was an "expired" member. I bought a silver plan though, so I can post like normal now. I figured the help on the site was worth the money. Prices were reasonable. I feel like my edge JWA comp was smoother fueling. When I get this quad dialed in as much as possible I will re-install the Edge JWA Comp and compare. I'd like to get them both dynoed back to back at Firepunk too, perhaps this winter around November or something. I've got a ton of homework due soon so I dont have the time now, but I can find my chest mount for the Go Pro and wear it so you can watch my manual gauges of Boost/Drive/S475 boost and see that the turbo does light pre-1800 RPM. The boost sensor is just very laggy and reports low. Hence why I am now a fan of manual gauges. Lavon is the first person to tell me that they dont always trust the electronic boost sensors and that it probably wasnt right. At his place a long time ago, the manual gauge read 55psi when the electronic gauge read 52psi, as a max boost pressure on the dyno. However that's just at max, its during transient that the electronic boost gauge on my truck is way slow and low reporting. Ofcourse my transient boost is even more reactive/faster with compound turbos.

Me, I agree, id rather use 100% of the throttle, but shamefully ever since I've had my truck in a single turbo config with an old edge, it's never used more than 50% of then pedal (i don't think). Unless I remove the tuning completely, then it's slow and it does. I've never posted a data log, and I've never graphed it in excel like you do. I'll go make a few pulls and drive it some. I had some slight timijg changes to try out: I had timing set to 15/18/21/23/24 the entire time. The pull in this video is a pretty standard "full pull" up to traffic speed that I will do if I dont have slow people in front of me, the truck is up to temp and Im feeling spunky. Its healthy and strong with good torque but its not that fast compared to the .80 ar housing, pulling hard in OD, that's a lot faster. Especially with a slightly lower than stock stall torque converter. I put a stock stall back in to help reduce smoke. Truck is also on small snow tires, 235/75?/16. Speedo is 10mph fast when it shows 65mph. At 35mph its fast by about 5mph. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoBjdU62Kps Data log of this short pull that didnt even hit over drive, with cells of 46% tps pull highlighted in orange: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oyjwZzxE2evJqAtdSxfjTydy41F14s8v/view?usp=sharing The video shows 46% throttle. If I go over 50% pedal it goes over 3k rpm and doesnt pull any harder, it just moves the engines output out of its powerband. The burn on this run was exceptionally clean, thats why I have the fueling setup so hard, because it has all the air to take it. I saw no smoke what so ever; there could have been a small cloud when I first laid into it, but it would have been really really small because the trans shifting is well setup, so it would have been in 1st or 2nd gear when I laid into it, causing low smoke. I could tune the powerband to go a bit higher with the spring wastegate I have, but its not worth the well setup bottom end torque and low smoke output I have going on right now. Data from this video pull: 18psi fuel pressure at idle, 13-14psi at 46% throttle, 25psi boost per quad (35 psi per manual gauge), coolant 203, engine load 46%, intake air temp 152*F, max rpm 2745rpm, vehicle speed max 58mph, CanBus Fuel 1838, timing 24.42. Those are the stats of the Data Logging page on iquad after the run. Edit; Here are some more videos of the smoke output so you believe me its running clean and wants more fuel. Me - you always say I need loads more timing. Please believe me when i say I have tested extensively, ran absolute MAX timing allowed (up to 30*) for a long time, all up and down the timing scale. Where I have it is the smoothest, fastest, cleanest, and will more than likely save my HG. Yes I could run more timing but I find the results to be not worth the downsides. Torque goes up, smoke goes up, the engine gets louder, and worst of all it hits really hard and when I let out of a hard pull it decels REALLY hard. Not worth the nasty manners, or a blown HG. I have 625s and an o-ring head, fresh from D&J with a retorque done on it. My iquad tuning from the videos: This is a shared folder on my Google Drive that anyone with the link can access: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1XYJMhputgBftW43dtXkaMkF63MjENdRQ?usp=sharing Me78569 - I'd love to go full throttle, but if I go over 50% the truck is probably going to try to rev out to 4k rpm and go all over the road. I havnt done it becasue its already pulling maximum at 50% throttle. If I lay into it more it will fall on its face like the VP is emptying or something. If I apply more throttle it goes over 3k rpm and you feel power start to fall out/off of its happy spot. I want to say that every time I try to go 100% it hits the max tps value and spits and sputters and defuels and smokes and bucks like crazy. Bad enough that once it popped out of gear. Because I still see 10-14psi (depending on how hot the fuel is) on my fuel pressure gauge, I feel like this is the programming bug of the truck throwing a fit when my throttle reaches the max TPS setting for wire tap, that was the original reason for the thread in the first place. Going to 24* at 2500rpm is probably the right call. I know I've done that in the past and adding timing up top seemed solid; it didnt affect spool or smoke negatively. As long as when I let out of the pedal it doesnt slam me forward Im good with it. I'll give it another shot. A photo of inside my quad box showing the jumper in the correct position: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xmhqx5OIcTdOPOIxQfK7ZH405DZwk0Uj/view?usp=sharing Go Pro seems to take the sound away when it gets too loud. I hope you can hear that the truck is very smooth and not jumpy in the video. Videos to show how clean its burning on a heatsoaked motor showing 140-150*F IATs:

I forgot all about pump low scale psi, I stopped using it because by using min wiretap TPS i can stomp it and get all the power when i want it. If im racing a guy i don't want it to cut out wire tap until X psi. Thus I started using min TPS. I seriously don't want 100% wiretap at 100% tps. I want 100% wire tap at 50% tps. I seldom ever go over 50% throttle.. shes burning clean and full steam, 40psi of boost (15psi from S475, 25psi from 62/68 SXE), at 2800-3000rpm if im 50% throttle. Once I hit OD I can put enough load on the engine to achieve 40-60psi of boost. I'm running some new clean injectors and it needs more fuel at 50% tps, thats why I'm trying to give it ALL the fuel at 40-50% tps, over 7psi of boost. I dont know why canbus doesn't show max fuel (4095) when I've done a 50-60% tps/30-40psi, 0-60mph pull onto the hampton roads parkway, because my fueling is 150% from 7psi on up with 65% max wiretap TPS and 32% min wiretap TPS. I'm also at sea level.

Thats not what I want moparman, I want all of the wire tap fueling by 40%. I dont want it until 30% because it adds smoke. I need to be able to step on the pedal to make it rev and shift correctly, about 32% TPS to make it double down shift and 35% tps to make it rev out to 2000rpm off the stop light so smoke stays minimal. I live in a racey east coast area with lots of stoplights on a 50-60mph parkway. People race around here. I also am burning all the fuel by 40% TPS. I could make a video of it to prove it maybe (technically that would take 2 cams at once). The truck has a lot of air and needs all the fuel because this 200hp injectors are burning clean and its not pulling nearly as hard. My opinion is its too slow right now. With fuel temps at 110-120*F my idle fuel pressure is 17 and it drops to 10psi under sustained max throttle/fresh filters/airdog 200. 13.6-13.7v ** even if I have TPS min set to 0 or 10% it will still cut out and smoke and fall on its face if max TPS is 40, 50 or 60% and my throttle percentage hits that max number. Same applies if i set it to 1800ms andor 30psi boost scaling. Thats why i feel like it may have been an isolated problem/programming bug. I even tried setting max fuel down to 130% , in conjunction with a of the above, to help mitigate the possibility of the VP emptying. When the truck was falling on its face smoking on a hard pull and had 10psi of solid fuel pressure, only when max tps was 40 or 50 or 60% and my pedal went that far down, again it made it seem like a programming glitch.

Also, ill do a 40psi pull and the quad will read a max of 32psi with a max canbus of say 2800. Im set to the settings i posted above which is basically max fueling (150%) after 7psi. Any idea how to get it to fuel harder? Thats why I have my wiretap set to as kill as possible too.

Am I the only one who has a quad that makes the whole truck stumble, buck and shake like the VP is emptying when the throttle reaches the % you set max TPS to? I'll still have 10psi of fuel on the mechanical gauge right before the VP and after extensive test driving i worked out that if my throttle applied percentage equals or exceeds the max TPS it acts like the truck is running out of fuel. Lots of smoke ensues and it cuts out and bucks. I see 2.8.4 ADR is still the latest version. Am I the only one? I'm running aggressive settings without min of 32% max of 40, 50, 60, and 65 as a final setting so the truck doesn't fall on its face. Boost scaling is 20psi, 2100ms (it stumbles and does the same out of fuel fit if I use 2200ms), 150% fueling from 6psi on up. 200hp f1 injectors 62/68 .70ar 475/96/1.32 New Industrial Injection SO VP New head gasket and no boost leaks, makes 60psi max. On the street 42psi is usually the most I see because I can't play in overdrive without speeding. Airdog 4g 200 with sump and full gas tank. New filter and water seperator. I have a drive pressure gauge, s475 boost gauge and an overall boost gauge. Drive is 2-3psi less than boost until 60psi has been sustained for a few seconds, then drive climbs to 80psi eventually (on a 100mph pull).

Ah that makes sense now. I suspected it didnt flash the ECM but didn't know for sure. Thx

Can the quadzilla tuning on a v2 fall out of the ECM if the truck sits for a long time, battery cables got disconnected possibly, and the tablet that the tunes are on hasn't been fired up? My trucks been at a shop and I'm trying to see if the tunes may have fallen out of the ECM.

My injectors aren't worn and I can kill mine from taking my foot out of a wide open pull. I have to ease out of the gas or else it kills the truck. That's because I have compounds though, making 55psi. Your probably running out of fuel pressure. I solved my fuel pressure problems a great deal by putting the airdog on a fuse block from Amazon for marine applications, instead of directly hooking it to the battery. And I tore the entire airdog harness apart and made sure every connection was 100%. My pressure still goes down to 8-9psi with a full gas tank and a 1/2" sump, and airdog 165 or 200, no difference. It's at 17-19psi at idle with a hydraulic gauge hooked up to monitor it full time. My quadzilla fuel gauge lasted maybe a year before crapping out. A manual gauge is easier to look at. Quadzilla doesn't give a good warning when it drops down low anyway, just that little yellow bar that you don't even notice when your actually driving.

Mine bucked to high hell no joke with the TPS Pump Max set to 0. I was towing and trying to quickly turn off wire tap by setting it to zero, and it bucked so hard I'm surprised nothing broke/The engine didn't fall out. My truck also bucked hard when lockup engaged at light throttle. Jacob thinks it's a big injectors issue. Solution is to turn fueling down to mid to low 70s at low PSI ... So when it locks the TC and I'm light on the pedal & low in the boost that solves the problem.

Excellent, my fueling problems past 3200rpm /w iquad have been something I have been struggling with. Thank you