rogerash0

Sure enough, level 7 remains useable. Pressure drop from 24 idle to 15-16psi WOT on level 7. Also a big deal was with the lower VP pressure, I was "snuffing" out the truck with DDP 120's. I would go WOT then let out real fast, and the truck would die. I had to crack the lines. Did this enough to burn through a starter. If I was real easy getting out of the throttle it wouldn't die. I've been getting better at not snapping the throttle closed, I seldom do it anymore, to prevent turbo bark & its a smoother ride. But I even killed the truck in traffic one day from a corner stop to 40mph; let out of the pedal and she died right there just short of the intersection. Really sucked. I dont remember my VP pressures from then, but I recall they were sub-20 at idle. I have photos showing 10 and 12psi at WOT with those injectors on the mechanical gauge to pease AD.

It drives me insane. On my old motor (53 block that cracked), with the AD100, Old school monochrome edge jwa, these same injectors im running now 8 hole "50hp" (dont rly know), --- all stuff that was on the truck when I purchased it --- The pressure never dropped until I went to Colorado Springs where it was 6k altitude. There it was 13-15psi. Otherwise it was rock steady 16-17psi no matter what. Thats the reason why I bought the AD165 4G rather than Fass, because the AD pressure never dropped. Not my new one, even utilizing the old base like I am. Even with a 200 motor on it. And a 10 micron filter, no difference (Im back to running a 2).

Agreed, I took a long firm look at that in your post. If its 25 at idle, it'll be 22-23 whilst I drive with a full tank (under moderate 10-25% throttle), another 1psi lower at half tank and below, and my Edge gauge reads 1 psi higher than one from the hydralic store that was $25. So, I'm going to call it close enough to 20. I have a spare II VP SO that I bought and its just sitting, because it didnt fix my hard start symptoms I was troubleshooting. It also didnt run a lick different than the VP on my truck right now. So if this one craps the bed, atleast I can use the other one I paid for. We should find out on this 2400mi journey I have coming up. I put the II VP on, and back off, so I've done it twice recently, should I have to do it on the side of the road. Dont want to, but I'll be prepared.

I found the big CF thread with all the arguing about pressures, the 14psi fuel return, your youtube videos, and your page "Fuel Pressure Specification For Bosch VP44 Injection Pumps". I didnt get all your replies until just now. I threw in the 30psi AD spring and it was running 35-36psi. I have driven on it by mistake at 40psi for hours previously, because it shipped /w a 40psi spring in it, and the guy that installed the motor never checked the pressure & I didnt go through the Edge to check pressure until I got home from his shop some 2 hours away. Point is, I test drove the truck at 35-36psi just now, figuring if it didnt blow prior @ 40psi, it probably would be ok now. Results: The truck no longer has a choppy surge/buck when I let out of WOT on lvl 7 Edge Jwa Comp. It was bad enough I never ran level 7 as a DD tune because of this. With the 50hp injectors in, and the trans working loads better, and smaller tires on, Im burning pretty clean now. I have been running at lvl 6 as my DD tune for a number of months. I got the AD at 25psi at idle now. Im going to go see if I still have the surge on lvl 7. It did seem to run a tad bit better or smoother, but it was so minute it could have well been my imagination. I did drive teh truck for about an hour today, prior to doing any AD spring changes, to ensure I knew how the truck was driving exactly, today.

Thats neat, I had no idea it had a reference line.

Haha, that's pretty cool. Sounds like the only way to get CR-like performance out of a 24v (ok, I know, it wont be like a CR). Since you got yours running so well, can you comment on the amount of effort or time it took you to make it what you wanted? Do you think there is more to be gained of the VP by not letting WOT pressures drop down to 10-12psi? Mine drops from 18 to 13-12 at WOT with only 50hp injectors. Even lower around 1/4 of gas. Even lower with 125hp injectors.

Agreed; I dont know a lot about it, or how they run, but based off the mass of reading I've done, they sound like they run a bit rougher and smokier overall, and a ton harder. I was surprised to hear jlbayes say it ran cleaner off idle, but Im sure it's all in the pump setup. I like to think dynamic timing is my friend and the vp44 is a good DD.

My radiator hoses stay hard as a rock, without a doubt even if the truck hasnt been on in 6 hours. I always wondered why. Once while my motor was still fairly cold, not up to temp, I turned into the gas station & popped the rad cap to check coolant level because I was going on a long trip. To my surprise coolant went everywhere like it was hot, except the coolant wasnt hot. Maybe luke warm at best. Does this mean I have a head gasket leak on my new motor with the arp 625s and o-rings? What's a p-pump conversion typically cost, and who's the best to get parts from? I know you probably have circles of people with the parts, so you wouldnt go through a distributer, but if you did I assume it would be someone like Sheid

My truck came with the noise filter and tin foil over the ground wire, then I started reading everything on this site, prescribed to your methology and took off the noise filter and tin foil, set to put all wiring back to normal. This was some years ago. Started going thru all sensors and relays, theyre all new now, and all for good reason. Latest alt on the truck now tested good 3 times over at Autozone. It also tested good at Napa. It was a 'brand new' reman from Napa maybe 6 months ago. The brand new, brand new 136amp Bosch crapped the bed and wasnt charging the truck, so this is a something reman 116amp on it now. It's all they had in stock that day, and I was facing limp mode with the trans and all types of crap around that time, so I took what they had to get me going agian. I tested 0.056vac or so off the back of the alternator at idle. Altho the brand new Bosch 136a that lasted 9 months or a year did test bad when I took it into Napa, it took a new ASD shutdown relay with the new alternator to get the truck charging again. Oddly enough I tested the original relay per the FSM and it ohm'd out correctly per the manual, but still a new one did the trick and had me making 13.7-14.3v again. I never thought the ASD relay would be to blame for a lack of charging power, so it took me awhile to figure that one out. I dont have writing on the sticker of my apps sensor, it got rubbed off when I cleaned it with a rag that had mild carb cleaner on it. I may go back to autozone and have the pull one off the shelf and see what it says. I was reading the board heavily last night and I think someone said the highside limit is 3.6v. I was getting 3.8v if my memory is correct. The wells instructions dont talk of a high side limit, so I didnt think much of it. Cant say Im gonna go buy a Timbo when Ive already spent piles of money, on a new apps sensor already. I'll go clock the sensor and see what it does or doesnt do for me. Update: Getting the truck to display 0% apps on my edge tuner required unscrewing the set screw until the voltage was 0.347v. The clocking of the sensor on the back affected the high range, which I set to 3.6v. It was at 3.8v (driving great). Wells menions nothing in their documentation about the high range, only clocking it to set the low range. I noticed no matter how I clocked it, clocking it wouldnt raise the voltage sufficiently to the 0.5-0.6v their documentation calls for. So I set the high side to 3.6, low side was was 0.55v, drove it, it drove about the same. Set it to 0.347v for 0% apps sigal and it drove about the same yet again. Cant say anything changed. I didnt reset the ECM calibration by leaving the negative battery cables off though. I can give that a try, and report back if it makes a difference. I suspect it wont, but who knows. Got home and even with the voltage below spec at 0% throttle, a code was not thrown. Only drove 5-10 minutes though.

I'm really a special case hut I don't see what measuring vdc across a ground and neg cable does whilst starting or grid heater. Even measuring it across a POS to neg terminal, what's it being compared to? I suspect you guys may suspect my cables are going bad. After installing the bd noise filter and driving for 45 mins, the truck drives the same. After pulling over, taking the alternater mounting top plate off,pulling the black ground wire with brn stripe down it, in front of the alt all that I could, over the radiator recovery tank and over the air filter -- rather than over the alt and under the air intake -- the truck now uses third gear. I had done this before, used alu foil before , and done many things before, but it's not until now that the truck is suddenly using third gear all the way up til 55mph under 50-60% throttle. It can still hit 4th gear @ 30mph crawling in town in traffic, but overall it's no longer stack shifting like it always has. All I did was move that ground cable, I did it on the road after driving 45 mins to be sure I could tell if it had any bearing effect at all . Also, the apps is retiring 13-14% throttle with no foot on the gas pedal. At one point up until I restarted the truck it was at 23-24% apps with the truck resting in park. Is it worth clocking the apps sensor and letting out the stop screw to fix this? I don't know if they the IVS still applies without a timbo? I assume so but the truck appears to be driving night and day better now. https://m.imgur.com/a/oeKGt

Here's what I got. 40*F air temp, 8 Oct 2017, Truck never fired up for the day, Resistance test (good for nothing? I forgot we wanted vdc at this point) Fluke set to ohms, neg on grid heater ground by intake elbow, positive on passenger batt ground: Readout was all zeros prior to key on, grid heater on. Key on, grid heater on yielded: 1848 ohms, dropped linearly to 1648 ohms, then grid heater turned off. With grid off, key on, I measure 0.11-0.8ohms which fell over the course of a roughly a minute. Final resting ohm readout is 0.8ohms. Passenger side resting showed 0.11-0.8ohms, with final resting resistance of 0.3ohms. Same test but in vdc, truck never started for the day: Passenger side batt: Reading zero vdc with everything off. Key on, grid heater on, 0.202vdc to 0.187vdc with a slow even linear drop. When grid turns off, vdc drops off to zero. Drivers side batt: After letting the grid sit a minmute or two, still havnt started the truck: 0.208vdc drops down slowly, evenly, linearly to 0.193vdc, then drops to zero as grids turn off. Batteries showing 12.90vdc after firing the grid heater four times during conducted tests above. I dont know if I did much right or that can conclude anything.

Yep, been here 5 1/2 years, and the AF is making me move permanently to Langley AFB, VA very soon. I will hit the road 1 Nov. Just need to finish packing the house. I have a 28' enclosed trailer I purchased after selling the camper I had. So I'm going to the coast where its 0 ft elevation above sea level; we are practically on the water. It's going to be quite a change. The truck felt tons better driving around when it was 32*F outside, so I am excited to see what the lower elevation feels like.

Copy, Im on it. We had an inch or two of snow maybe 5-6 days ago. We talked about my location previously when I mentioned stopping by Rocky Mountain Cummins, which is a good shop in my town. They've helped me a lot for free with ECM swap, full field test on the alternator, by passing relays, printing out wiring diagrams, etc. You have one by the same name in your area.

Funny, my drivers side ground was loose enough on the battery to wiggle around and pull off, so I did tighten that up so that it was tight tight. I wonder if that really was the cause for a lot of the fix. It was firm enough to stay on whilst driving for the last several months. There was a point there where I was taking them off so frequently I left them firmly on there enough to stay on, but able to be pulled off. I dont quite follow how your getting a voltage (drop) testing from bat ground to grid heater ground, esp with the truck off. Tomorrow morning my grid heater will cycle on, we are calling for rain and snow @ 36*F by 8am says Accuweather.com. Reading your post twice or thrice, it seems like yours saying I should see a vDC load on the ground cables from the batt ground to grid heater ground, when the grid heaters are cycling on. So lets say I see that reading, then they turn off, what is my comparative voltage (delta) to measure the loss or difference? To follow the article posted, I need a second person to start the truck as I use the fluke. I dont have that right now. The wifey will be back by the end of Feb. Edit; Also I think I was seeing 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift around 1600 or 1800rpms under normal acceleration. I cant recall which it was. That's probably around 15-25% throttle, perhaps settle in the middle.

Well I hope 3k rpm isnt too high then. All I can say is it feels like its hauling the mail, running strong. It seemed like the trans wasnt taking on as much heat as I continued to drive around for an hour and "test it out" or "beat on it" however you wanna look at it. I loosened the TV cable up a bit by adjusting it inward just a tad from max out, and went back to max out. Second gear is actually holding until 28mph when it shifts to third, and it seems to be going into fourth gear at 40mph. So I am much happier with that. The downshift to accelerate hard from approx 30mph called for the cable to be as tight as possible (adjuster max outward) to get that thing to downshift to 2nd gear as promptly as possible. Im not sure about testing ground cables for a vdrop test. I think I did read something akin to that somewhere, at some point. I have added a ground cable to the frame using a battery cable from a farm store. It goes from the passenger side battery to the frame. I did clean with a wire brush all grounds on the truck, carb clean em, and use diaeletric grease on everything. That was one of the very first things I did to the truck some years ago. Including the one underneath the drivers side battery tray. Including the two big connectors underneath the drivers side door by the frame. Including the connections by the bumper. Including adding a ground strap to the ECM and making sure the PCM has it's ground strap. Bed has its ground strap. I was testing for continuity & testing for low resistance to ground across surfaces like alternator body, engine, this ground to that ground, etc some time ago and concluded things looked good. Sounds like I probably need to do what youre talking about. That and I havnt opened up the inside of the fuse box and completely gone through it to clean it out, from the inside out.

Ya mine is definitely smoother the more I tow or harder I accelerate. When I say harsh I mean a nasty audible clunk, jolt, bang, or seat of the pants jerk. I just managed to mess with the TV cable more and the first thing I noticed when moving the accelerator pedal rod under the apps cover, was that there was about a 1/4" of slack in the TV cable before it started to move when pushing per-say on the accelerator. So I figured when Im at 10-15% throttle, the cable wasnt moving at all. I took the clip off, and only saw the slack disappear with the TV cable at its full outward position. I pulled it out until I saw a red spring in the assembly, then seated it back in at the very end of its outward adjustment, and now the truck is holding first gear at 3000rpm at WOT, and 3k in every gear after that minus 4th gear TC lockup. Becasue under light acceleration it actually holds first gear until 1600rpm now, its already on the chargers when it goes into 2nd gear at 10-15mph (depending on how much pedal I put into it). This has reduced the smoke immensely. It also seems to be holding third gear for an actual 5mph now, around 30-35mph, rather than shifting right through it. Still speaking, at light to moderate acceleration. I'll have to drive the truck more to see how it does at purely light acceleration, driving slow around town. Also the TC lockup almost makes no metallic sound now. Its still there but its very faint now. TC lockup feels more like a smooth shift's engagement, quick like a switch switch, smooth and almost instant with no bog. Before the rpms would rise a bit, then it would bog rather badly, and the truck would have a light shudder. Like it took a solid 2 seconds for TC to lock. Also, before, its behavior would be erratic, sometimes not bad, occasionally great, generally terrible. But how terrible lockup shuttered/bogged/sounded/how long it took seemed to be different almost every time it engaged. Now it feels consist, quick, smooth, no terrible bog, and good. Overall its night and day better. I also adjusted my APPS again, because the truck has since been through 3 alternators and now I know my batteries are fully charged and so on. Its been something Ive been meaning to check for months now. It was sitting at 4.6v with cold engine/batterys that havnt been driven at all today. Wells class for 0.5v to 0.6v. So I set it to 5.08v, drove it, came back and checked it and it read 5.65v. I thought the voltage would go up with a warm engine and batteries that had been used recently. I noticed the voltage it would land at would be close to 5.65v every time, unless I did WOT, then it would drop much lower down to say 5.01-5.25v somewhere in that range, not consisantly. I set it back down to 5.10v without a WOT snap (so it would be under 5v with a WOT snap), with the truck being warm now, and it was hitting gears hard and downshifting hard. Put it back to 6.01v at the side of the curb, and it was shifting much better. I adjusted the stop on the accelerator rod rather than taking the APPS assembly off and clocking the APPS sensor. Essentially Moparman said to adjust the stop, dont bother with clocking the APPS sensor in his write up, but that was for Timbo I do believe. Would this still apply to me Moparman, with the Wells hall-effect sensor? It seemed to work well, and saved me time, so I was content with it. Im going to go let the TV cable inward a bit more and see what it does for me, because my pedal is ultra stiff, and the cable is very much taught/tight. I'd like to see it have just a tiny tid bit less tension to it. Overall its driving night and day better. I dont know why I had 1/4" slack in the TV cable... and it seems I have to be almost max outward adjustment to get rid of it. Now the TV cable is actually moving when the throttle moves. Its a night and day difference driving the truck. Runs faster. Pulls harder. Doesnt shift into 3rd gear rolling. Rolls at 14mph in 2nd gear, or 20mph in 4th gear if I slow down to 15mph it will downshift from 4th to 2nd. It will actually roll in first gear instead of upshifting to 2nd gear right away at idle when first put into gear and foot off the brake. It also downshifts into 2nd gear much more promptly, with about 25% throttle now rather than me having to mash it 50% to 100% throttle to make it downshift under hard acceleration. This saves a ton of smoke from pouring out the tail pipe. When I need to get on it and the stupid thing is in 4th gear because Im doing 20mph and havnt slowed down to 15mph, its a big deal. Theres so much bog and hesitation waiting for it to get going when you expect to move "now", I think the 2nd gear downshifting much more promtply now with less pedal is a step in the right direction. Also saves the truck from loading up on fuel, increasing "go" time due to bog. To show, heres a video. Im assuming these have been working for you guys. I cant see any # of views or anything. You'd think I could. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8_XcOA-iWW1ZWNoNDBfQWhSekU Video is Edge on 6, lowend 2, timing 2. 55*F air.

Thanks for the cool review. Sounds like I really need to get on the train. How far have the tune revisions come year after year? Still improving year on year? I assume the tunes in the DL section here are only made by members. Are the member's tunes considerably better than what's on the official site? Probably dumb questions so ignore if you will.

Thanks for the good description of where the vent is, JAG. I'll clean up there and see what it does for me.

I've played with timing a lot; I'll up the timing and see if it makes a difference but I played /w it so much and used to run high timing so Im 99% sure it wont change it. I had a Smarty too, which I think did have my speedo calibrated at one point. Since then I have sold the Smarty. I've ran the ADII 165 4G and 200 4G, both with pretty much the same results. I've tried three different relays, old relay from original AD harness, new one from the store, and the one that came on the new harness. I had an AD100 that never dropped pressure as you describe, but that was on my old motor, too. I do believe the pump is grounded to the battery properly.. Ive visited my battery terminals about a million times. Also I originally ran the AD100 harness, had this problem, so I put the new (same but new) harness on and no different. Tried 10 micron filters, bought new W/S of different brand and different brand 2 micron filter at Napa. I run 1/2" from a tank sump all the way to the VP with no T's or obstructions of any kind. I also leave my fuel cap 1/2 turn loose because I was getting some vacuum in the tank, even with a vent on top that I saw fuel come out of when I filled the tank all the way up. The vacuum would make the AD motor whine and I would get a loss of PSI worth a few "points" if you will. I would also hear air woosh into the tank when I opened my tank. It would probably start to play up after driving the truck and sucking down 1/8 tank, and certainly by the time I had gone through 1/4 tank. I think if I just drove 10mins to work it wouldnt make a difference, but on long drives it did. The motor whining, and stopping whining when I equalized the pressure in the tank to the atmosphere as I heard the woosh of air entering in it --- made me say OK I do have some kind of vacuum problem. Since then I leave the cap 1/2 turn loose and no such thing any more. Edit; I also bought a new fuel cap and no change.

Ah yes, you put your shifting/TC concern in much better words than I did. My speedo surely is off; if I look at my GPS speeds, my shift points are within 5mph or less of all of yours listed. The greatest variance being at top speed. This is why I'm stopping by Firepunk on the way to VA in a month, I really hope they can help. With my alternator not charging, running around at 12.8v or whatever it was, and with the grid heater lowering the voltage to 12.2 or 12.4v when its on, and cycling off, can say I have consistently watched a linear drop in fuel pump PSI delivered by the Airdog in coordination with the voltage readout. I agree that it shouldnt do this, but it seems it very much does. I also have a 6psi loss on WOT, and I have tried everything under the sun from sump kit to bigger fittings, to original AD base, to lower pressure for "more volume", etc. I have a 30psi spring on the kitchen counter right now that I would like to try out, to see if I can feel a performance increase with the VP not dropping down to 12psi at WOT. I've got a brand new II SO VP44 on the shelf after all, since even a new one didnt change my outcome. I wasnt really sure what the brake boost test was set to achieve or determine; my power comes on exactly as you described. I didnt go jump in the truck to confirm that just now, but I know well enough that that's when the powerband likes to come on nice & juicy. I would drive around with OD off but when the TC locks in third at 30mph its just ugly, especially with a cold engine. Smoke output increases, and I hear something metallic. Im still convinced there's something wrong with the converter, because it didnt do that when new. Also my 2nd gear has always had a fairly nasty hit when it engages ever since new, unless the TV cable is set just right. Right now its back to being a bit grumpy and hitting hard, I think the cable is easily adjusted when I work in the engine bay by me bumping wires (I swapped out an Edge tuner for another, then put the original back in). Even with the clip in place. Grated typically when I adjust it I feel a difference in pedal tension/pressure, due to the cable, and my pedal feels the same, but it seems a bit finicky where the only difference in the outcome I get from messing with the TV cable is how smooth the shifts are -- getting rid of that nasty hit of a clunk you can hear through the whole drivetrain when she goes into second gear. The truck also, with the TV cable mysteriously out of adjustment like I mentioned, will shift into second and then third gear just idling down my road. Its going maybe 15-20mph by then. No pedal at all, or I'll gas it enough to get up to 10mph because I drive slowly around the neighborhood, and she just motors on up and shifts up by herself and Im doing 20mph+ in third gear before I know it just a block away. I know just a wks ago I had the TV cable set so it wouldnt go into third gear idling, and it wouldnt hit hard into second. However I suspect the tire swap going from 35" tires to stock size third gen 17's may have something to do with the truck rolling faster on its own now. Perhaps not so much the TV cable getting bumped out of adjustment. I apologize, somehow I forgot about the RPM tid-bit. It looks like 1700-1800rpms to me in this video I took of a WOT from a stop. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8_XcOA-iWW1Mk5BN0JUa0o3Szg

Awesome. Tell me why you run the stock intake elbow. I left mine on originally, figuring I'd get better charge distribution into the intake runner with higher velocity through the smaller intake elbow. Greater pressure drop from the elbow to intake runner. How is that valve cover breather working for you, not too much oil coming out of it? What did going p-pump do for you initially, and what did it do for you after you got it dialed? I saw you sent it to TX for a 13mm spec. Looks good

Yes sir - I knew its a 2500 heavy duty truck, diesel, it surely came with E's on it. I've only ever seen E's on my truck, and only ever bought E's for it. So I calibrated it for the E size 245/75/r16 as the stock size. Those numbers are from discount tire's website, not the door sticker.. for some reason I didnt think to look there. I also got out and read the size of my current tires right off the side wall to be sure I inputted the modified tire size correctly. It seems like it makes not a difference in the world. Prior the calibration Im speaking of currently, it was still loaded for my 35" tires, so I thought it would fix the problem, but it did nothing. Perhaps I can call Edge about it tomorrow, but something tells me they wont be able to help (I've called many a time). I'll go calibrate the stock size as 265/75/r16 as you suggest and see what it does on a a short little drive. ----------------------- Back from the drive. No difference. Turbo timer and all other functions seem to work properly. I havnt used the gas mileage function it. Also did some repeated testing, and saw that it doesnt downshift from 4th gear until right at 15mph per the dash. I thought it may at 17, but 15 was right on the money. When it does downshift, it goes right from 4th to 2nd. Is that normal? Same way that it shifts up, essentially.

Ok lads, just got back from doing some road testing. Im giving all this extra data, some of which you may already know, just to be clear and concise about the exact conditions, so that you may address any thoughts/concerns/advice as accurately as possible. Hopefully its not a chore to read; if it is let me know. Edge juice with attitude competition (7 power levels) 13.7-14.2v @ idle and/or whilst driving. Typically see 13.9-14.1, which makes the fuel lift pump pressure vary. I dont know why it flucuates so much. This is not with an external voltage regulator. I never did take the wiring harness (capacitor or resister?) mod pictured around pg 3 of this thread out. Not yet. Airdog 200 4G motor on non-adjustable AD 1 base. 17-18psi with truck in gear. 18-19psi @ idle. 17-20psi overall due to voltage fluctuation. Saw a max of 41psi today @ 63*F, saw a max of 43psi when air temps were 32*F the other day /w my 62/68/.80 + S475/96/1.32. Banks 4" intake tube, big horn intake (CNC ported to 4" on the inlet), the stg2 porting by D&J on intake & exhaust /w billet runner + bar and plate intercooler by Mishimoto. I only see max boost when I think it is locking the TC in 4th gear around 92mph on the dash. This is at WOT throttle. Prior to that in fourth with TC unlocked (or is this third with TC locked? Im not sure) I see around 36psi max at WOT, until that big 4th gear locked load is placed on the engine. I am running a set of third gen tires, 275/70/17 wheels & tires. 63*F according to my phone, my outdoor gauge is within 2*F in the shade. Very windy day. 3330' elevation. Stock/reman VP44, 50-75hp injectors not sure which. For some reason my dash's speed tach (whats that called again?), even with the edge juice with attitude set to correct stock and current size tires, is off typically by about 5mph in town driving. I am going off of my phones app called DigiHUD that uses satellite GPS to get my speed. Here were my findings. Again this is with the 17" third gen wheels and tires, which Edge showed to be 31.6", the stockers being 30.5". I got the stock tire size /w E rating from Discounttire.com. The D rated tires they listed were 225, the E rated were 245 (stock sizes). Edge on lvl 6 fueling to 3200rpm, lowend 3, timing 2 Dash showed 20mph, phone showed 19mph Dashed showed 30 mph, phone showed 36mph Dash showed 51mph, phone showed 45-46mph Dash showed 80mph, phone showed 71 mph Dash showed 90mph, phone showed 79 mph. Im assuming the dash is wrong. This truck got new calipers/rotors/brake lines & wheel speed sensors in my aginst to fix the ABS light coming on. It had the whole front end rebuilt with new ball joints. New trans speed & rear diff speed sensor. The only sensors not new are coolant temp sensor, brake switch (not a sensor but I have it, but its not in yet) & engine oil pressure sensor. The engine oil pressure sensor is going out and ill be here next week. I need to find another GPS to verify which reading is correct, the dash or my phone. Shift Points: I called out each shift best I could from a total stop to WOT /w Edge on setting 6. I had the truck on a road or hwy with minimal to no traffic. Took me a few tries to be sure I was calling out the shift points correctly. With trans @ 165*F; these readings are all off the dash! I couldnt look at my phone-- I was flooring it and staying in it. 1-2 Shift - 20mph 2-3 Shift - 45mph 3-4 Shift - 80mph 4th to TC Lock 4th - 95mph When the TC locks at the dash's reported 95mph, I can feel the power to the ground increase, and the needle start to drop even faster. Trans @ 179*F, second test 1-2 Shift - 22mph 2-3 Shift - 42mph 3-4 Shift - 82mph 4th to TC Lock 4th - 95mph Im sure my readings are 2-4mph off just from glancing down a fraction of a second late as I felt the shift. My eyes were primarily on the road. I did a brake boost for the first time ever. Video'd the dash whilst doing it. Trans was at 123*F, fuel pressure was 17-19psi depending on voltage, edge on 5, lowend on 3, timing 2. IAT 107*F. EGTs at 345*F to begin while truck is parked, idling. Likely applied 75% throttle dropped to 50% after it was smoking like a siv at the stall. Tach stalled at 1400-1500 momentarily, I looked in the rear view and smoke was pouring out, then the truck overcame this stall point and quickly climbed to 2450rpms. I let out of the gas because I felt the enormous amount of torque being held up in the brakes. I could upload a video if it would help. It climbed very quickly after surpassing the "stall point" if I dare call it that. Here's a video in case its worth more than words, hopefully it works: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8_XcOA-iWW1UkJmakxYX2NwUVE When it was over I heard a hissing which was intermediately audible whilst the brake pedal was (still) depressed. So I dropped her in drive and rolled on down the hill, down the highway to hopefully cool everything off under the hood. Things seem fine.

I agree 100% on the TC theory, Pepsi. Im sure there could be improvements as the lads suggest, I dont doubt that, but why on earth is it shifting into fourth at such a low rate of speed? It should be in third gear imo.. fourth gear would make sense at 45mph, and I get bloody TC lock at 50mph, which ofcourse just bogs the truck down to 1200rpm Im pretty sure. When it's hot and/or Im at elevation, especially on hills, or the motor is cold, it smokes and bogs like hell at 50mph when it locks. What do you mean it will eschew your smarty testing? Ofcourse now with a belt thats not slipping when I turn the alternator nut, the valve lash double checked, the tires back to third gen 17" rims & tires, and the air being colder, its running a lot better. I also tin foiled my brown striped ground wire going over the alternator and I honestly believe it did help "a tad". Im gonna go run the truck and get results for the previous posts. I have never brake torqued the truck. Do you mean hold the brakes and step into the pedal until I see what the maximum RPM rise is? I know this is hard on the converter, goerend's website said not to do it. Ofcourse its what guys doing boosted launches do. I'll do it once and see how it goes. I'll get the engine warm and tranny temps up to 150-175 first.