mossyoak71

I think you would have to p pump it. Not really sure though as the pcm controls other parts of the truck.

First and foremost let me say this site is awesome and second I'm a dumbass. So in my signature you'll see I put this motor in my F250 and had to build a wiring harness so I contacted the guy that I bought the engine from because it was supposed to come with the harness and he sent me one. Evidently it wasn't an O2 harness or a 01 so it had a crankshaft position sensor plug which is exactly like the Cam sensor plug so when I looked up the wiring to do my harness I reference what wires were in there instead of going to the 2002 wiring harness for the engine at this site. Well after ordering a computer and putting it in and still not working I decided to rip my harness completely out and print out the schematics so I could go through it. Well what do you know I found the issue I didn't have the cam position sensor hooked up so this whole time since I've been driving the truck it has never worked. Well I redone my harness, reinstalled it, and put my old computer back in. Works perfect so now I'm stuck with a new computer or I can just send it back and lose 50%. Either way it was sort of an expensive lesson. So I guess my question is now with the cam sensor never hooked up and the ECM never reading it then how did my tack on the Quadzilla work? Was everything based off of the vp44's own timing? Now I hope this is the last bug I've got to chase down. I've only got two other things to do and that's to hook up my AC and do the cruise control. Thanks for all the replies and all the help I really do appreciate it and my knowledge is vastly growing on this motor.

This past weekend, I put the stock ones back in and it did it bad, then I have a set of DDP 125's and I put them in and it still did it. It only throws the one code, so I just ordered a reman ECM. All I can say is we'll see.

So I've been dealing with this all week and today I hook it up to my trailer that's normally hooked up to it every day and it's not doing it but if I unhook it and drive it without the trailer load on it and start bulking so I don't know what the deal is. But it's still there it's just not as prevalent

Well I went and bought a new CPS and installed it. Took all wiring loose from the alternator and the charging cable loose from the battery. Went for a drive and it was still doing it. I really want to just drive it off a cliff at this point, and would if not for all the other work I have put into this conversion. Now looking at the schematics for the ECM, the only thing that is left in the circuit is the ECM. Now when the truck is cold, it will not do it. Once it is warmed up then that's when the issue starts. Sometimes worse than others. When I pull the codes, it only gives me the p0341. So I guess I'm going to try and get another ECM. All my grounds are good, I rechecked them and double checked them.

So my theory is to buy a sensor and put it in. Unhook the alternator and drive it. If it is good, then I know it's the alternator. Now I just got off the phone with Leece-Neville alternators and I asked if they tested for ac noise, he said never heard of it. Now XDP carries this brand, so what brand would you recommend? Thanks for the help.

Okay so yesterday afternoon I left off putting everything back together I was so frustrated so this morning driving it has really gotten bad but yesterday when I was driving it really didn't buck. but the code to keep coming back every time I reset it so I'm just wondering if the alternator has messed up this sensor and if so my only option is to buy another alternator and have it tested before I buy it and another sensor I'm willing to try anything right now

I purchased it at Napa. Think it was a BWD sensor.

Ok, so today I pulled everything off the alternator, and it still did it. So I took the wiring harness off and tested the wires and they ohmed out at 0 pin to pin. So the next step I checked the voltage on the 5v pin and it was there. So I did some more research and my understanding is that when a closed portion of the cam gear passes over the sensor it closes the loop and let's the 5v through. Then when the air gap passes it goes back to an open circuit. So with this I took the original one and wired it up on my bench and supplied 5v to it. As I passed a metal object in front of it the circuit closed and allowed the voltage to pass through. Then when the object was pulled away sometimes it would go back to 0 and other times it would stay closed till I passed 3 or 4 times. So I checked the new one and it was doing the exact same thing. So I am at a loss, and the only other thing I know to do is to buy another sensor and bench test it to see what I come up with. It still throws the CPS code.

Well it lasted all but 1 1/2 days. Now the bucking is back. Some where I saw a trouble shooting guide, so I guess I will try that step by step to find the issue. I wouldn't think that the new sensor went out that quick, but who knows.

I cleared the codes and drove it today, still acting up. So I checked the codes again and they came back. Of course the heater grid will always be there. So I called around and got a cam sensor, and installed it when I got home this afternoon. What a PITA to get to. So I took it for a drive after I reset the codes, and it drove great. Now I didn't drive the 30 miles like I do 1 way to work, so we will really see in the morning. It also seems to idle better and doesn't surge when I put it in gear, I thought that was a byproduct of doing the conversion. Hopefully, and I have all my fingers and toes crossed, that I can enjoy it now. Thanks all that replied.

Ok, well I finally got an OBD2 port wired in, and pulled the codes. P0341- camshaft position P0380- heater grid which is deleted P0382- heater grid which is deleted So I did some searching and everything I found said something about the tach going on and out. The tach on the quadzilla app has always been spot on with the aftermarket tach that I had to put on in order to make the Ford computer happy. So my question is what and how do I need to go about figuring it out.

ECM and PCM and the ECM is automatic.

So I guess my next step will be to put the DDP or stock ones back in and see if it clears up. If not then could the VP be going?. I have yet to get a obd2 port wired in, so I guess I need to do that also. Dang man it never ends.

Why would it run ok in stock?

Yes it is a surging issue, my convertor doesn't lock till it's in od. Try to get the tunning on the engine figured out before I try locking it in other gears.

So I was just over looking at the threads on 24v section, and noticed the one about AC noise interference with the ECM and VP. Since I have a conversion, I'm using the Ford alternator and charging system. I also deleted the heater grid on the Cummins. The reason I bring this up is I am still having the bucking issue. When I run it on level zero, it happens very slightly, mostly at 1500 - 1600 rpms, 25% load, and 55- 65 mph. Mind you the timing is stock. As soon as I take it to level 2 or 3, the bucking gets more prevalent, and I'm down to 14.5 in the timing. Now as soon as I hammer the throttle it seems to stop the bucking, or should I say it comes out of it. Now on levels 4 and 5, as soon as the wire tap starts to come on it really bucks, and puffs smoke. Not a steady stream of black. Then the turbos start to clear it up and it runs ok, not great. So my point is, this issue seems to have just started little by little, is there anyway I can check for the AC noise? Could I unhook the big wire from the alternator and see if that helps? In other words just run off the batteries. This gremlin is really kicking my arse, and also it is a reman vp44, I got from XDP. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated, and thanks!

Swipe up on the screen. On a good note, I had DCS redo my tranny tune and he sent it this afternoon, so I will try it over the weekend. I think 50% of the issue with the bucking is the transmission. (Ford 5r110). Just alot of bugs to exterminate!!?

So the other tune seems to be working good. Could it also be that the gear ratio in the Ford automatic is different than the Dodge. I know when the engine gets lugged down in slow traffic it will buck. I'm still working with DCS on the tranny tuning.

Well by doing the things you said to do, it has helped the 1st tune alot. I will try 5he other this afternoon.

I will, thanks

Nothing special, just what is in my signature. Like I said, I have been banging my head, and it hurts. So I will try that. The only thing special is the fact that it's in a Ford, mated to the 5R110W, and 3:73 gears. I just wonder if the ratios in the transmission have anything to do with it. When you say fuel load timing, what is that, cause I don't see it in the quad?

Ok, so I took some pictures of when it does it. This is the tune that you sent me, which I had to start it at 80 instead of 70 because it would die when I pressed the pedal. Also cruising along at 70+ and stab the pedal and when the wire tap comes in it really bucks. I attached the pictures and the tune. Now the street tune that I attached will buck at all rpms above 1500. But when you stab the pedal, it will get up an go. Wiretap will cause slight bucking. This is the tune I made with the tune program. All the tunes that I have done with it will buck. So I just want to know where I am going wrong. iQuad-scott1-2017-12-07-04.06.45608484781.json streettune.json

I will get more info and tune tomorrow. I used the tune builder tool, and they started out ok, it would buck a little, then it just started getting worse. It will also buck ever so slightly in the stock tune.