RAD

This is the one I have.

I do not remember making anything up to plug the airtex into. Just bolted it to the bracket and plugged it in. Will check installation instructions. charging it now, will hook the fp guage up Thursday, and start it and check things out.

No on the cranking amps, will read up on that in just a bit. No fuel pressure yet, going to get one Thursday. Filter was changed the day after all this happened back in February. Was clean from when it was changed previously. Will do dave110. Will post up what I find Thursday evening.

I installed the airtex, wire/plugged into wiring harness. Want to get a FASS DDRP. That should work. I changed the sealing washer(relatively easy). Got good overnight charge on it, It cranked on up with just a little hiccup. Ran for a bit went through the gears, was backing it up about 20’ and died again. No LP sound. Let it sit, checked PDC relays, seemed kind of warm. Swapped out fuel relay with another and turned key on, LP sound.swapped them back to original, LP sound. Wouldn’t crank again. Batteries were down to 12.6. Both batteries are relatively new. ??????? keep an eye on the weather!! Sun came out here in LA!!

The bump starter worked, but once I turned it off, no lift pump noise. going to check fuel pressure later on with a better with a fuel pressure tester. Will post up what I see. ECM was done back in March or April of this year. I will find my receipt. it was auto computer specialist in south Florida/ ft Lauderdale area.

no trouble codes at all

MM suggested I post up after speaking with him on the telephone yesterday afternoon. this all started after some cold weather here. leaving work one day and just died on me a few times, hard to start and then finally nothing. here goes working on a 1999 2500 5.9 l . it is hi-line w/auto transmission. key fobs never worked for me. trouble is it is very very hard to start. finally got it to run yesterday, let it run for about 5 minutes and turned it off. it didn’t want to start again. then when turning the key to start and run position, no lift pump noise. i waited 30 minutes and cycled the key again and heard the lift pump running. wait to start light come on immediately for about 2 seconds then goes off. grid heater are not hooked up at this time before I have let it run till it warmed and shifted the gears and/or gave it some fuel and just dies. batteries are at full charge, 13.9v from alternator. I did have the alt. checked. checked out fine. mm suggested to take it out and have it checked again for bad diodes new rebuilt starter refreshed/rebuilt ecm new tpps IP been in it just at two years (blue chip diesel - stock) lift pump in it just at 2.5 years (airtex) have not replaced sealing washers at back of the head. going to do that later today as long as Michael doesn’t dump water on me. going to get a better fuel pressure gauge today and check that, again. was checking it with a HF pressure testing kit. all cable ends have been replaced, new military style battery clamps. have not combined grounds to block, yet.

Will a 99.5 Dodge 2500 flash ANY type of message on the odometer? With no key in, I am reading/getting NO BUS on the odoemter.

I recently sent my ECM off to be repared. Once it was installed, there were still issues with getting it started and staying running. the ECM repair technition told me I have issues with fuel delivery. I have narrowed the problen to PDC fuse #3 (circuit A14 RD/WHT) thru the wiring harness to PDM 1 on the firewall.With everything plugged in my test light lights up when I touch #3 fuse "blade". I can unplug connecter 1 at the PCM and the light goes off. The same circuit will also branch off to the connecter and connect to the ECM wireing harnedss which powers the lift pump. I have been able to get it started but will no stay started. I think there may be an issue inside the PCM???? Right now the ECM is unplugged along with connecters C125 and C126 only 1 battery is in it with ground hookd up. there are no fuses or relays in the PDC (I jumped fuel system relay to complete the circuit to be tested) O Once that issue is corrected I can continue to check "downstream" of C125 and C126 Any thoughts or suggestion need to correct/fix this issue will be greatly appreciated. New lift pump and new injector pump. Injector hot wire test will get it to run.

yeah it was all my fault!!! i had been working on it quite a bit and checked the wrong wires!!!! it was hooked up properlly. finally got i cranked, i let it run about 10 mun. rpm started fluctuating about 250-350 rpm. shut it off and hasnt started since!! no codes the diagram above and the grounding diagram are very very helpful!!

I received my ECM back from Auto Computer Specialist. Was told NOT to hook it up until I found the short to ground. Of the things I checked was the grid heater solenoids. My voltmeter was reading 12v across the big lugs on both of them. Thinking it was bad, I replaced them with OEM type, NO Ford solenoids. I am still reading 12v across the two bug lugs. TPS is NOT hooked up. ECM is in but NOT hooked up. The relay in the PDC is NOT installed. The two smaller wires on each solenoid ARE hooked up. I have found and cleaned up 4 grounds in the engine compartment. i have not had the alternator checked yet. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

ROGER DODGER

I received my repaired ECM back from Autocomputer Specialist with a note not to hook it back up until a find the short to ground. I started looking at known problem areas. Once I got around to testing the DTC P0382: INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #2 CONTROL CIRCUIT I hit a snag. From instruction item 3 " If resistance is 1000 ohms or greater, go to next step. If resistance is less than 1000 ohms, repair short to ground in Orange/Black wire between ECM and intake air heater relay No. 2." On my sweep Ohm meter set to the 10X scale I am reading 17 or 170 ohms. Without tearing all the wrapping off the wiring harness and looking for a short to ground does anyone have any suggestions on what to look for. I also checked the INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #1 CONTROL CIRCUIT connector at the ECM plug, following the same test and got the same reading on my Ohm meter. Any suggestions on a way to clean the holes/contacts at the ECM plug. I also checked and cleaned a lot of grounding locations.

I received my repaired ECM back from Autocomputer Specialist with a note not to hook it back up until a find the short to ground. I started looking at known problem areas. Once I got around to testing the DTC P0382: INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #2 CONTROL CIRCUIT I hit a snag. From instruction item 3 " If resistance is 1000 ohms or greater, go to next step. If resistance is less than 1000 ohms, repair short to ground in Orange/Black wire between ECM and intake air heater relay No. 2." On my sweep Ohm meter set to the 10X scale I am reading 17 or 170 ohms. Without tearing all the wrapping off the wiring harness and looking for a short to ground does anyone have any suggestions on what to look for. I also checked the INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #1 CONTROL CIRCUIT connector at the ECM plug, following the same test and got the same reading on my Ohm meter. Any suggestions on a way to clean the holes/contacts at the ECM plug. I also checked and cleaned a lot of grounding locations.

I received my repaired ECM back from Autocomputer Specialist with a note not to hook it back up until a find the short to ground. I started looking at known problem areas. Once I got around to testing the DTC P0382: INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #2 CONTROL CIRCUIT I hit a snag. From instruction item 3 " If resistance is 1000 ohms or greater, go to next step. If resistance is less than 1000 ohms, repair short to ground in Orange/Black wire between ECM and intake air heater relay No. 2." On my sweep Ohm meter set to the 10X scale I am reading 17 or 170 ohms. Without tearing all the wrapping off the wiring harness and looking for a short to ground does anyone have any suggestions on what to look for. I also checked the INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #1 CONTROL CIRCUIT connector at the ECM plug, following the same test and got the same reading on my Ohm meter. Any suggestions on a way to clean the holes/contacts at the ECM plug. I also checked and cleaned a lot of grounding locations.

THAT IS VERY HELPFUL!!

Got any leads on rebuilders? I found ecmoutlet.

Is there a way to test the ECM?

I am hoping its not the IP since its not that old.

No, not yet. Was hoping to run other things down and rule them out before doing that.

I found a picture of the codes from a while back, never shut off then like it is doing now. P0382, P0122 and P0216 I might add , the OEM positive cable end on the driver side failed/broke a couple of weeks ago and I replaces it with a bolt-on type. I would like to replace it with an OEM type.($$$$) Volt meter in dash reads just shy of 14 volts. No P0606 code. Yes there is a delay in the WTS light, In the past I have let it come on then go off, turn the key off then to run position and there is still a delay.

New to this web site. Ii am working on a 1999 Dodge 2500, 230,000 miles Leaving work the other day, this past Friday, my truck quit as if the key had bee switched off, hard to start back up but did. Soon after that it happened again. the third time, I just parked it. got it running this past Saturday. ran great for about 6 miles, quit again, didn't start any more after that, I had to get it towed home. Was able to get it started three times yesterday. First time it ran for about 30 seconds then just quit. Secong time with out TPS plugged in, revved up very high and I turned it off very quick. Third time, after plugging TPS back in read just under 15 lbs. of fuel pressure at idle. Dead pedal while it was running. Tried starting it again after that but never did start up. Turns over well. I should have made note of the two codes stored. will get them later today to better help with the problem. A couple of questions to help me out at first. 1. Would a bad TPS create a problem like this. 2. Should fuel pressure fall to 0 once the vehicle has been shut off? (pressure gauge on fuel filter housing) 3. Would a faulty heater circuit/relay cause this problem. New list pump installed February 2016. (Airtex) New IP installed November 2016 (Blue Chip brand - stock replacement) New fuel filter (this past Saturday) I will look for any responses/help in order for me to resolve any issue. Thanks in advance! Rad Duke