CAMG3X

Ya I had trouble in the past with debris getting in the the return valve holding it open. The strainer alleviated that. Really like the system, just need to get the return valve in order

Think my return valve spring was weak from the get go and has gotten weaker over time. Use to sit at 18 idle and 16 wot. The drop happens initially around 1800rpms and climbs back up in the higher range. The drop slowly got farther over time till I put some more shims in and slightly stretched the spring a bit. Think I'll keep an eye on the pressure so it doesn't get any higher. Wondered if fueling from hot rod VP44 and 7x012s had anything to do with it

I was having some lower fuel pressure with my fuel boss: 16 idle and down to 10 full throttle. So I added a couple shims to the return valve and now I'm at 22 idle 17 full throttle. Contemplating taking a shim out, is that pressure too high? Thanks

Does he slam the throttle at the end or did it really take that long to spool? Pretty nuts either way

Interesting about the oil temperature vs coolant temperature. With the Quad I'm usually cruising around 208-212 degrees oil temp, but my coolant is from 194-204. Have a napa thermostat and seems to open at 201ish. Does this mean my timing is too advanced then? Thanks

So I installed the new fuel pressure sensor system with about 5' of air lines, needle valve + snubber, and PTC fittings. Everything appears to be back to normal! Pressure is steady around 17-18psi cruising around. Definitely not fluctuating as it use to from the pulses. Thanks Moparman for showing your set-up. Mine is definitely not as clean/organized haha

That's a pretty sweet set-up MoparMan! What size PTC fittings are you using for the male PTC going into the snubber and female PTC connecting to the sensor? 1/8" NPT to 1/8 tube diameter? Looks like I'll need a male PTC to come out of the snubber then a female PTC for the Quadzilla sensor. I went to test my pressure with a mechanical gauge that I have, but it is unfortunately broken when I pulled it out to the tool box. Started the truck to see what the quad sensor was reading and now it is up to 95-100 psi, so I'm fairly certain that the sensor is shot at this point. Will build up a system like yours for the new sensor. Thanks

Then my sensor may very well be the problem! I'll check it with the tester first and start planning a new fuel pressure system. Think I'm going to bypass the electric pump at some point and solely run the fuel boss. Been fine priming the system by manually spinning the pump on fuel filter changes and not sure how much the electric pump really helps with start up. Should I just cap the ends going from the T to the pump? Would like to keep it somewhat intact incase I need it in a bind + close the system off to not expose to elements. Plus disconnect the electric harness to the pump. Betting it will throw a code though...

I suppose the other possibility is that my Quad fuel pressure sensor has taken a dump. Though would assume it would not read at all: the pressure does fluctuate with fuel demand as expected (45psi down to 30's on mild acceleration). I do plan on testing it manually when I get to working on it. Ya I wonder if the bypass valve spring becomes weak over time, slowly dropping idle pressure. I've found all it takes is a minuscule flake of rubber to hold it up, thus dropping the pressure. I wish I blew the hoses out and added a strainer from the beginning, but I did the install in a parking lot haha.

I'll give an update next week, had to park the truck out of town and borrow a rig for the meantime... I don't have any filtration/separation pre-pump (boss pump) . I think the most allowed for the system before the fuel boss is a strainer. I do plan on upgrading to a new filtration system once it warms up here. Think I misread your question, yes I have the original stock fuel filter assembly.

I tested the valve before putting it back in, seemed to be ok. Polished the inside cylinder a bit with a dremel too. Perhaps was a lil more stiff than I remember. Ordered a new bypass valve just in case. Most of the debris that I'm seeing is small rubber shavings. I should have put in a strainer when I installed.

Good point, I'll check the T before the bypass valve. I know I've put the valve in the right orientation, have had to clean it out a few times now. Time for another diesel bath lol. I did notice diesel running through the hose before the bypass valve when I disconnected it. I thought about running it while disconnecting the valve from the tank end up to make sure fuel was going through piece by piece. Hard to think an obstruction would cause fuel pressure to go that high, guess I assumed the bypass valve was probably fairly closed at idle.

I have a fuel boss mechanical pump and I had an issue with some debris being stuck in the bypass valve, causing the fuel pressure to plummit. I cleaned it out and put it back together and everything seemed to be as normal around 18psi. Though, today when I went for a drive the fuel pressure jumped up to 45-50psi. Thinking the valve was stuck closed I opened it up to find all was normal. I know I've installed the valve in the correct orientation as well :/. I'm at a loss at this point, can't figure out why the pressure is so high! Any ideas? I drove for about 10 miles, how much harm could this have caused at 45psi? Thanks

I noticed a cruise psi @ 70mph go from 2-3psi to 4-5psi when I installed a new map sensor (quadzilla). Feel mechanical is the best bet for monitoring.

I had a similar issue. No boost, Quad reading zero. Checked voltage on map sensor and was ok. Though I also noticed my oil pressure readings were not what they use to be. Ended up changing both oil pressure sensor and Map sensor and all is well. Kinda wished I did the oil pressure sensor first to see if it was the culprit. It appears both sensors are linked by the 5v supply.

My oil pressure sensor harness has 3 wires including the orange 5v, so I'm assuming it is linked to the MAP 5v. The double wire must be only with the 2002's. I replaced both the oil sensor and Map sensor. The P0237 code cleared right away and the oil pressure gauge is acting normal now. I should have probably done one sensor at a time to see which was the culprit. Did notice that my oil pressure sensor was not in very tight at all, probably could have undone it by hand, replaced the new one nice and snug. Thanks for the help guys! These trucks confuse the heck out of me sometimes

I'll take a look when I get the new sensor in. Will I be able to access the oil pressure sensor without pulling the fuel filter housing? Looks like it might be a tight squeeze.

I checked the wiring diagram, see that both sensors have a 5v power link. When the oil sensor goes does the MAP fail somehow? I tested the orange wire at the MAP connection and it was ~5.03v. Guessing I'll have to order a map and oil sensor from genos in hope that it resolves.

The code is constant, I'm unable to clear it with my OBDlink Mx. I returned it to stock by removing the Quad and drove for a bit. Code remains as well as no turbo function besides spinning with RPM's. Can R/O the quad Going to attempt to get a voltage off the orange map wire. Hoping it's in the 4.7-5.3v range with the sensor as the culprit. Not very electrically inclined and messing with the ECM resistance testing is a bit daunting... I also noticed my oil pressure gauge rests at 30 when it use to point in the upper range when cold and descend as the engine got to temp. Thanks for the input

I'm working on diagnosing a P0237 code. I installed a fuel boss and primed the system by cracking the injectors resulting in fuel down the side of the block. Wondering if that could have caused it or I bumped something out of place. I removed the MAP sensor and cleaned it, appeared in good condition. Attempting to follow the steps : Though, my OBDlink mx is unable to read MAP voltage. I'm getting Mass air pressure readings, could the boost on the Quad be at fault? Going to disconnect the harness and see if I can get a voltage reading off the plug with the multimeter tomorrow.