burb31

Ok...I replaced both front hubs a few weeks ago. I have only driven it once since...Iv'e been waiting to get the money for the tie rod and drag link...blah blah. Well, I noticed I had diff fluid coming out of the axle tube on the pass side...leaking all over the bottom ball joint. I took everything back apart and cleaned the best I could in the tube before putting the axle back in. I put it all back together but I don't know if it will seal this time. It appears there is a seal close to the diff that seals around the inner axle. Hopefully it was just some debris keeping it from sealing properly. If not...I guess I need to change that rubber seal...anyone ever done this?

there is a used smarty here for sale locally. They are asking 450. I looked it up and it looks like it sells new for 650 or 699. I dont have a tuner and have been undecided which to get when ready. But if this is one that is of good quality maybe I should ****** it up. It says you can do "stacking". I understand this means use with another box that will advance the timing. I'm not sure what the exact deal is with that. Why isn't one box designed to be enough?....maybe that's a dumb question....I just noticed I posted this in the wrong section...

Also, It's my understanding that the accum/drier is the last step, not the evap. It starts at the compressor then to the condensor, to orifice tube then evap then accum/drier and back to comp again. If you cut it in half...it's the hot side from comp to orifice tube. cold side from evap to comp.Maybe this is what you were saying and I read it wrong, my apologies if that's the case or I'm mistaken.It's been quite a few years since I worked on a/c.

cool ..thanks. probly be a couple weeks before I got the funds. I want to do this right tho....hate hearing about guys replacing these front end parts every 8 months or so....

sure....any info would be helpful.There is play in all the joints you mentioned. However, the tie rod is what looks strange. I'm used to looking for play in these things ...I work in a semi truck/trailer shop. If you turn the steering wheel the tie rod will flip toward the front of the truck or the rear(depending on which way you turn it) before it will start to turn the front tires. I'm goin to change it...i'm just used to seeing play in the joints with side to side movement in them......this is the whole tie rod flopping to the front or towards the rear.

Anyone know the torque spec for tie rod ends? You can grab a hold of the tie rod with your hand and flop the thing back and forth....not the normal kind of play I'm used to seeing, but I guess I should replace it...def feel it at the steering wheel. Probly go ahead and do the center/drag link also. I hate to get the parts at autozone....but they are open and got it in stock.

ball joint are good actually....no play at all....i have to go by a 90 degree grease zerk though....the top ball joint is the only greasable one and whoever replaced them last made it to where you cant get to the fitting. They seem tight however.

great....thanks everbody. Soon as I get the $$ I'll do the other side. Plus I need to replace tie rod ends....I have alot of play at the steering wheel.

awesome...thanks. I suppose it would be the same or close enough if there is any difference between the years on mine and yours. This is the dana 60. is that what these instructions are for? also, when setting the torque on the main axle nut...do you think it's ok to put it in 4wd hi ...in an effort to keep it from spinning?

good idea....its ready to go back together now.probly wouldnt hurt to anti seize the 4 12 pt bolts either....I had a heck of a time getting those out and that was with a 1/2 impact. --- Update to the previous post... hey the 180 for the main nut....Does that go straight on with 180? Or is there some kind of preload first?

wow! 180? really? figured around 120...ok. Thanks

does anyone know what the torque spec is for the main hub nut that is on the front axle for the wheel bearing assembly? Also, might be helpful to know the spec for the 4 12point bolts that bolt in from behind and hold it on.I had the driver side seize up on me Friday night on the interstate. Yay! Not bad though..no one got hurt.

Dang it...put the pressure on him...the sale on the ats is only good thru tomorrow. I'm joking about putting pressure on him....well, maybe not

how much do they run? I was looking at the ats for 425 and was thinking about getting it coated....not sure..usually 470 but they got it for 425 till tuesday

So are you getting a new one? Or you just got some engine work your doing? Heck, if your getting somthn else I could just buy that one from you if it is still good.

So, how long did that black coating hold up on the ats before it started lookn bad? Ever start rusting?

Yeah I know but my stock one is cracked bigtime and I don't necessarily think i should get another stock model. Now I'm looking at dps or ats. Some of these sites are advertising that the dps has a ceramic coating....I'm kind of doubting this. --- Update to the previous post... Well, my truck is def stock....I haven't even beefed up the trans yet or added a tuner. I was curious if anyone has an ats on here and does the port for the probe come tapped and plugged or not. So, you think it's a good idea to port one of these aftermarket manifolds as well?

yes, who wants to pay 500 bucks, still have to port the thing and have it coated....not to mention after searching some of these forums I have learned that people are still having probs with the after market ones cracking like htt and ats.

well, I just was looking at an htt and found it for 425 and it comes with all the gaskets....one thing I'm undecided about is the hight temp black coating. HTT doesn't come with that and ATS does....i mean I imagine the htt will look bad in a few years unless i paint it. Then again, will the paint all cook off of the ats anyhow?.....hard to say but its nice not having to buy gaskets with htt.

Anyone have any input on the exhaust manifold I should get? I'm undecided between the BD and ATS. While the BD has two ports driled and tapped and the ATS has one. The ATS also comes with a high temp black coating and won't look like crap after a few seasons. As far as quality between the two I have no idea. Currently the best price I have found shipped to my door is $425.00 total.

everything your saying makes perfect sense. It's just that I know people who have the same truck basically (big tires and lift) that claim much better fuel mileage than I am getting. i know what your saying is true however.I do have a airdog raptor 100 lift pump,fresh fuel filter,oil change,fresh K&N air filter. I am not seeing any burnt fuel out of the exhaust at all. I dont have a tuner yet either.It's hard telling when the valves have been adjusted if ever. adjusting the valves and replacing the manifold is my next step I guess.

ok....I know I'm running a lifted truck with 315 tires and 4:10 gears but doesnt 13mpg still sound really bad? 120 miles of the 200 i just drove was highway at 57 mph. the rest was in city and some extended idling for warm up before driving. also, my exhaust manifold is cracked...but I don't know how much this would affect it. What do ya think?

a/c clutch is cycling when heat is on. I'm not talkin defrost just regular heat.

I am showing 17 to 18 on my fuel gauge....dont think I ever seen it drop below 15 while driving. Is 17 or 18 ok....at what point is it too high?

I got everything except the needle valve....pickin it up from napa tomorrow.I think I'm gonna mount the gauge in the cubby hole next to the radio. I picked up a plastic plate from Geno's garage.....I hope this doesn't end up lookin cheesy...thought about the steering column mount but it looked like it would obstruct the view of the speedo a bit