skyhigh4by

As far as I can tell the problem was the edge. I can’t find anything wrong with the truck. Plugging the edge in has no noticeable power increase.

It was next on the list after transmission which I just did. UPDATE ive been driving for a few days now with the edge disconnected. I notice no difference in the way it drives. Didn’t feel like any power was lost without it. No CEL but I haven’t had a chance to put the scanner on it yet. I also got stuff to rig up a boost leak test but haven’t had a chance to do that yet either

It was next on the list after transmission which I just did.

I unplugged the map sensor but left the factory plug connected to the EZ because I read a bunch of posts about the effect it should have. I noticed absolutely no change whatsoever. Power still feels flat and doesn’t even make the tiniest puff of smoke in any rpm/throttle position. Does this mean anything? I have ave also been suspecting possible boost leak but the whole zero smoke thing kind of debunks that theory does it not?

Okay I was leaning towards MAP or injectors. I have access to an OTC genisys scanner. What numbers should I be seeing from it? I assume wat hung it while driving in various conditions? I had my scan gauge hooked up a while back and I think if I remember it was reading pretty close to atmospheric pressure at idle but would stop going up around 20 psi maybe? (Can’t remember exactly)

My truck has 110k miles, edge EZ, 4” exhaust, FASS lift pump, Suncoast triple disk, dynamic valvebody, and an Oregon fuel injection VP. The pump has around 20k miles on it never seen less than 14PSI at WOT, always with the FASS, and always had 2 stroke. It recently FEELS like I’m losing low end power. Very very little smoke ever no matter what tune the EZ is on. Just feels like lately I have to push the throttle a lot more to really get going but once it’s wound up then it seems fine. No CEL. New fuel filter. Also my fuel mileage sucks (250-300 miles/tank) Runs great otherwise. Could something be up or am I just losing my marbles??

Okay thanks as far as I can tell it’s in. I read a couple procedures that noted to make sure that it’s not sitting in the wrong spot and is properly engaged but nothing that actually says how to tell if it is or isn’t

Just finishing up 47re build and I’m installing the valvbody with the trans on the bench. Is there any way to tell is the if park rod is actually engaged in the right spot or not without putting it all together and finding out the hard way?

Next time I have a scan tool handy all check it out.

Maybe a silly question but I'm curious if anyone can explain to me why my 98 24v is much quieter at cold startup than when its warm? Theres barely any fuel knock at all and its really smooth sounding. Once it warms up and during the warmer months it just sounds like most other 24v. I run 2 stroke oil in my fuel. It would be great if I could figure out how to make it sound so smooth all the time.

I already have an adjustable bar built on a Chevy that doesn’t need to have it so I’m hoping I can use that hence the need for measurements. Okay great thank you! Is your truck stock height or how much lift does it have?

Okay awesome thank you

I’m specifically looking for bar length when using the DOR/DT style mount. It’s a straight bar not the typical 3rd Gen conversion. I tried to deal with DOR but they didn’t want to do anything but sell me the entire kit. I ended up getting just the mount from DT which still costed nearly $500 after shipping and US-CDN conversion.

Can anyone tell me the length from bolt to bolt of a DT or DOR track bar on a stock to 3” height. I have the DT bracket and am going to make a bar for it but want a ball park measurement before I install the bracket.

Okay thanks. The one I found was for an 01 and mines a 98.

Looking at picking up a used tuner. I notice some tuners are year specific for 24v. I’m trying to figure out if the edge comp is or isn’t year specific from 98.5-02?

I was having the same issue. Once warm it wouldn’t start unless factory lift pump was disconnected. New VP solved that. Now I have a FASS on a relay but no delay and it starts up after one revolution at 15ish psi. I did the same thing wiring the pump up to a switch.

It might be worth your time to check/clean any grounds you can trace down too. I replaced diode in my alternator and cleaned up all my grounds and battery connections and it was suddenly like a whole new truck. I was having all kinds of driveability issues before that.

Thanks everyone I think I can be fairly positive it’s running through the converter. In 3rd lockup when rolling on the throttle the rpms will flare right up as soon as the turbo lights but wheel speed doesn’t follow suit. @DynamicI was planning to go with the DPC triple disk and your towing VB. Anything else that’s considered a must do without actually tearing the trans apart? The only future plans for the truck are possibly some injectors in the 60hp range. It’s my DD and I tow either a 3000lb boat or 25’ travel trailer.

Fluid seems good I’ll give that a try thanks

I am mostly worried that I will spend $2k on a TC and valvebody, do all the work to swap them out and then still be right where I started. I suppose that’s just the chance I take without fully building the trans. In theory it should be in good shape with low mileage and it has had a really easy, low effort life thus far.

1998 24v 47re trans. 100k miles on the clock. Edge EZ, bhaf, and exhaust. I am having some slipping which which I notice when I roll on the throttle at highway speeds in overdrive with the TC locked up. I was convinced it was pushing through the lockup clutch and I was about ready to order a TC and valvebody. Now I’m not 100% convinced that will solve my issue and thinking maybe it’s my overdrive gear that’s slipping?? Is it common for overdrive to slip in these trans? I can turn off OD but then I have trouble even telling if and/or when the TC even locks up. Does anyone have any tips on how to really narrow it down?

U joint would makes sense to me and I will check it again but I’m quite certain the noise is inside the cab. Also the frequency,speed, and tone of the noise don’t change at all with vehicle speed.

Thanks I’ll check it out. I kind of doubt that’s the issue though. It sounds kinda like a typewriter and doesn’t make any difference whether the blower motor is on full speed or not even on at all. Could be bumpy or smooth road, speed doesn’t make a difference either sceptic it won’t do it when not rolling and only when I turn the steering wheel to the right. I can basically make it happen on command. It is definitely coming from inside the cab also.

I have a rapid clicking noise that sounds like a relay coming from behind the glove compartment. It mostly seems to happen when I’m making a right hand turn.