burnt_servo

does anyone know how many degrees injectors fire at lets say 280 bar , 290 bar , 300 bar , 310 bar and 320 bar ?

i've been meaning to update this . so i shimmed the bushing with shimstock , then pressed it into the housing , i can't remember off hand the clearance but it was tight , around 2 or 3 thou . i then drilled and tapped the the housing with a grease nipple , and i give it a shot of grease when i grease the other u joints . but there was still a bit of a vibration ..... and i think i figured it out today , i've had a 216 error on my injection pump for a while , this controls timing advance . well now right when the vibration would normally appear , the engine is starting to misfire slightly .... the vp 44 isn't long for the world , but i strongly suspect it was doing this before , undetectable , but just enough to set up a harmonic to create a vibration . i'll know when i finally get the new vp44 installed

it isn't the injection pump that makes the fuel millage , it is the cam shaft . they changed up camshaft profiles in the 24v engines to reduced cylinder pressures and reduce nox emissions .... this had a side effect of reducing mileage . change the camshaft and watch your millage be comparable to the ve engines . the most reliable thing to do with your engine and truck is to leave it as stock as possible . a ve or p pump isn't a magic cure and both introduce their own issues equal the vp 44 .

it has been -20 here the last few days , today it warmed up to around -5 , so I started tinkering . the bushing I got was the wrong size . not sure if the part number is wrong , or the part was mixed up with a bag with the right part number on it . so I measured the clearances on my parts truck and my truck . parts truck , 8 thou clearance between yoke and bushing . my truck , 13 thou clearance . so I installed the parts off of the parts truck , and the vibration was cut in 1/2 . as for drive shaft angle . zero'd it out on the tailshaft , then measured the pinion angle , and the pinion is 0.2 degrees down ...... which is almost perfect . so what is left ? I haven't touched the mechanism the engages / disengages the front axle for 4x4 . I'm going to get the rear drive shaft balanced just for the heck of it . and seriously thinking about putting balance beads in the tires , again just for the heck of it .

I checked the run out on all 4 of the brake rotors and they seemed good , checked the wheel bearings front and rear and even set the rear wheel bearings up with a torque wrench . also no change in vibration with 2 different sets of rims and tires . when I pulled the rear tail shaft out my parts truck I measured the angles of the shaft in the transmission and the pinion ..... now this is on the parts truck .....with the angle finder zero'd on the transmission , the pinion was 2.5 degrees high ( high as in away from the ground ) ...... it should be 0 or 1 degree low ( as the pinion will lift under acceleration , this is according to the shop that balances drive shafts ) . if you take the zero off of the pinion , the end of the tail shaft is 2.5 degrees low .( the transmission needs to be lifted ) so pretending that the transmission mounts do settle with age , it is entirely possible this the issue . the more I google this , the more I am seeing this as a issue that is either unsolved or has many possible solutions . I have a bushing and seal coming in tomorrow , so I didn't get too carried away with my truck today .

it isn't leaking , but I am going to see if I can swap the tailshaft out from my parts truck . I'm running out of things that might be the issue . also the part number is this 18172 . type " 18172 bushing " into google and that is the bushing .

for anyone interested here is a great page on driveshaft angles http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pinionangles.shtml

after doing a bit more digging I've come up with a couple more things to chase down once it warms up a bit . the tail shaft on the transfer case could be worn enough that the one end of the drive shaft is essentially spinning in a larger circle and dynamicly unbalanced . the other thing that might be happening , and worn transmission mounts would makes this worse , the springs could be settling enough and the pinion angle could be in a slightly more lifted position from stock . and I have replaced all but 2 of them , and the 2 left alone where very closely examined . what I'm thinking now is a worn tail shaft would cause a similar type of unbalance .( the drive shaft turns a larger circle than it is supposed too , a worn dry cup would do something similar ..... in other words the dynamic centerline of the shaft isn't the same as the static center line ) .

feel exactly like a dry , slightly worn u joint cup would .

do you replace the whole tail shaft or just the bushing ? is this a dealer only item ?

so this might be a bit long , please bear with me . working of a 2001.5 quadcab 4x4 diesel 2500 automatic ( single piece rear drive shaft ) less than 150,000km I'm getting vibration around 80km +/- 10-15 km ( starts around 70km , goes away over 100 km ) it feels like a drive shaft or bad u joint . ( but drive shafts are good ) started off with swapping the rims and tires over to another balanced set ( both sets of wheels where clean , no mud , and weights where in place ) .... vibration still there went through the rear diff and rear drive shaft , all good , replaced rear brake pads and joints in drive shaft ( joints where still good )..... vibration still there went through front axle , ended up replacing upper and lower ball joints ( lowers where wore out ) , brake pads and put a lukes link in track bar . wheel bearings are good , u joints next to wheel bearings also good . tie rod ends are tight , track bar really didn't need the lukes link . previously installed a steering box brace ( steering box is still tight ) ....... vibration still there , but less intense . removed front drive shaft ..... vibration still there without front drive shaft ..... rebuilt the entire shaft , 3 u joints and centering pin joint .( it needed it ) . put front drive back in , and no change in vibration . put truck on axle stands and could not get it to vibrate while powering the drive train ,even spun everything up to 180ish km ...nothing . I had previously installed a switch to lock up the torque convertor , the vibration becomes more noticeable while locked , but I am assuming that is due to the lack of damping effect when the convertor is locked . switched out the harmonic damper on motor , things got smoother , but I think this was due to the balance holes in damper filled solidly with gunk . the original damper was in much better shape than the spare I put on . I also changed the rear drive shaft out to my spare , thinking it might be a balance problem on the shaft ..... it made no difference . vibration does not change with engine rpm , only changes with vehicle speed . it also becomes slightly less severe when you lift the throttle . any ideas ?

working on a 2001.5 dodge diesel quad cab 4x4 . I want to replace the convertor , is there enough room to slide the tranny back and swap out the convertor , or is t going to have to be dropped to the ground ? If I do this I'm working outside under a tarp and I was hoping to just sling the tranny to the frame and pull it backwards .

that is what I figured ... thanks

i was just going to post something alone those lines ...... one multi meter is reading 28 - 30vac , another one is bouncing between .01and .02 volts ac .

hello guys ....... working on a 2001.5 dodge diesel 4x4 auto . been driving since 2010 ...... anyways while chasing drive line vibration , I ended up chasing a rabbit down a hole . short version , my multimeter on dc reads 13.8vdc ( reverse the wires and it reads -13.8vdc) , then switch it to ac and it reads around 28 to 30 vac , switch the wires and it reads 0000 . so I am assuming I have a leaky diode . now has anyone thought to add a external rectifier bridge in addiction to what is inside to alternator ?

hello guys here is a question . anyone know if there is a way to identify a unknown 24 valve injector ? i have a 2002 dodge diesel as a insurance write off that i have been using for parts for my 2001 dodge diesel . the 2002 had a 4 inch exhaust , a hx40 / hx35 turbo ( hx35 exhaust side ) , a aftermarket airfilter ( i think it is a "afc" ) , some sort of "tuner box" ( it is missing , but the vp44 does have the top cover replaced with one with a "wiretap " ) ...... there was also a boost guage and a egt guage in the truck . ...... there is also a " PDR Diesel " emblem on the tailgate .... ( i emailed them with the trucks serial number , no response so far ) . the truck is a automatic , so the original turbo would have been a hy35 . given this info , what do you guys think are the chances that the owner put a set of bigger injectors in ?and is there an easy way to identify the injectors once i get one of them out ? ?

for the last year and a half i have been driving my truck like that . ( 2001 , automatic , fas 150 lift pump ) hard to start when warm , eventually really poor mileage , various engine codes .... code 216 was consistant . when i replaced the pump a couple weeks ago had code 1689 come up . and the truck had next to no power , got around 4 mpg and still hard to start . check your codes and see what come up . if i recall corectly the hard starting when warm is a indication of computer problems on the pump .there is suposed to be a power transister that has a poor conection to the main board that gets worse over time . i haven't pulled my old pump apart yet to confirm this , but i have seen pictures in other forums dealing with european pumps similar to the vp44 hope this helps some