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only getting one p-done. i have an obd-ll(inova). when i diconnected the apps, i did the key trick and did get the p1693 and p0122. i hooked back in, and erased the p0122. do i need to erase p1693? i thought this code went away once i erased p0122 code. i did it while in park. i took it on highway, as soon as i got to a steady 70, it quicklt stalled, pressure dropped to 8psi, then jumped back up to 12 psi. scratching my head here.

no codes. three key trick works on my truck, only p-done. Signature needs to be rev:shrug:ised, actually have +20, 000 miles. today i simulated apps failure by unplugging harness. i cleared codes again just in case. i reset APPS and Now the gage reads 14 psi idle and 10 psi wot(3000 rpms) any ideas?

: Did you try to follow what ISX recommended as far as checking the valves again? No visual damage to valves when I did the valve adjustment. Update on fuel pressure readings: Idle: 12 psi @55 mph= 10 psi WOT(3000 rpm)=8 psi Filter change-+1 yr. I think I may need to clear codes. Still having engine missing. When engine misses, no drop in fuel pressure. At idle guage fluctuates. Any ideas?

I will check this weekend and keep you updated. Additionally, narrowed down what the noise is. There are two locations. One is the boost and the other is that i think i might have a blown valve. My symptoms closely resemble what JohnFak was troubleshooting. Turned out to be a blown valve. thanks JohnFak for your details. this saved me a lot of time. I was wondering, would i do any damage driving the truck long distances with this issue?

:ahhh:truck died on the way home yesterday. just plain shutdown . just before it shut down, the truck started to sputter than it drove normal than . I checked stock lift pump by opening up testing port at the VP44 and bumped the motor to activate lift pump to verify if i was getting proper fuel delivery after the filter:thumbup2:. Than i cranked open injector line 3 & 4 and started to turn over motor. i observed fuel dribbling out initially, stepped on the gas peddle irratically until i finally observed the fuel shooting out of the injectors, continued to step on the peddle till it finally started running:hyper:. Tightened down the fittings and got home as quick as i could. What a mess!!!Gas gauge was almost at 1/2 a tank. I looked in the haynes book and noticed the PCM wiring diagram has an automatic shut-down relay. Does anybody know what this is for? Does this act as a protective device?Any and all comments are appreciated.

Performed the valve adjustment this weekend. Noise is still there, but now clearer. It sound like the stock lift pump when you initially turn they key on before start. The loud noise goes away once the truck has idled for a couple of seconds. Additionally, tapping sound can be heard. checked all gaps and all is within specs. any ideas? In regards to write-up, torque specs seem to be very high. Are these values from Haynes manual or manufacturer? I did not tighten to the torque specs due to not wanting the bolt to succumb to hoop stress.

trying to nail it down from feedback from the forum before i give out assumptions. almost sounds like a june bug or bearings going out. --- Update to the previous post... so i took a video and it almost sounds like a tapping sound. do you all think i might need a valve adjustment?

Okay guys, on friday as i started up the truck, there was this loud buzzin sound coming from the front end, then faded out. Truck ran fine on the way to work. At the end of the day, same noise, same result, but truck started to stall out. Any feedback would be appreciated.

okay, so the problem was the gasket after all. toughest part of the change was getting all the way back and removing the disel fuel return "tee" to get that bracket out of the way. thanx all for the feedback.

do i need to add sealant to the gasket when i assemble?

Finally got around to pulling out the valve. It takes 011 0-rings (3) locations are at the smaller end of the valve stem and two where the valve connects to the cannister bowl. The 012 O-ring (1) is at the larger end of the valve stem.

i will keep ya'll posted

oil leak coming from behind plastic cover. I suspect stamped-metal side cover is leaking. Any thoughts? Can i buy gasket at NAPA(cummins part number?) or need to special order from dealer?I thank you in advance for your feedback

The filter has already been installed. I will check on the next go-around.

no leaks, except thru the drain valve. i simply twist the lever and drip goes away. On my cannister, inlet on the right hand side and exits at the bottom and to the left towards vp44. i bumped the starter and fuel level rose within cannister and poured over. once it stopped pumping after the 25 seconds, the level in the cannister started to go down.

No Hard start issue, just curious as to where the fuel goes if nothing is present within the cannister when bumping the starter to fill the cannister. I thought maybe it goes thru the bypass line once the VP44 has been primed.

It's been two days since the fix and all is well. thank you all for your valuable input. this exercise has given me the opportunity to get to know the fuel system up close and personal. I think we can put this thread to rest. I know if i have any other problems, it's sure not going to be the fuel system, at least for a couple of years. So let's go over my original post. Symptoms:White smoke & Dead pedalDiagnosis 1:Replaced stock lift pump with new OEM Carter Pump and new filter.Result:No sign of White smoke & Dead pedal for a little over a year. Diagnosis 2:Replaced stock lift pump with new OEM Carter Pump.Result:No sign of White smoke & Dead pedal for about less than a year. Diagnosis 3:Replaced stock VP44 with new OEM VP44. Result:No sign of White smoke, but i did have Dead pedal issues for more than a year. Diagnosis 4:Replaced stock APPS with new TIMBO Apps. Result:No sign of White smoke, but i did have Dead pedal issues for more than a year. I don't think truck liked this so set off ABS and BRAKE light:doh:. Took it to mechanic and found ABS module failure:mad:. Mechanic cleared ECM with DRB III and all is well for awhile. Truck died with a 1/4 tank full:mad:. Diagnosis 5: Replaced stock clips from black hose nipple with worm gear type that hold together fuel line from fuel cannister and fuel line from VP44. I stumbled into this one. I tried to determine if i had air in the system, therefore attaching a clear hose that was smaller than the black hose nipple, which resulted in a tight fit. took truck out for a drive to see if had any air bubbles(none detected). noticed that clips could be removed with hands and not pliers:stuned:. re-installed black hose nipple, cleared out air from system.Result:No sign of White smoke, Dead pedal issues gone. Power back to normal. Symptoms:ABS and BRAKE light: Diagnosis 1:Replaced ABS module with one found in the junk yard with same year and manufactured at same plantResult:Took it to dealer and had them reprogram. My lights are still on. Mechanic finally threw in the towel. At start-up lights are off, but once i get going, they turn on:mad:. Symptoms:Truck died at 1/4 tank: Diagnosis 1: Under review.Result: TBD Hope this helps someone out there. Word of advice. Beware of the wooden nickels!

i thought that the cannister was under pressure when sealed and therefore atmospheric pressure would push the fuel down when cannister was open.

Replaced my filter not long ago and noticed when i filled the cannister (black cap off) the fuel level rose and than disappeared. I thought maybe the filter absorbed the fuel, therefore tried it again with the same result. Shouldn't the fuel stay within the cannister or does it return back to the tank? Any feedback would be appreciated.

Just thinking out loud here, but have you tried connecting the clear line between filter cannister and pump? If so, what did you find? Is there still a sign of air bubbles? You can for sure eliminate the possibility of it being the drain valve with this approach. I have a similar problem with the valve dripping on occasion. It would be interesting to see what the result would be. You might want to shorten up on the hose, due to the uncertainty of the NPSH(net positive suction head) of the pump.

No, i have drums. --- Update to the previous post... I just took it out for a drive at lunch and noticed something. At take-off as the transmission starts to go thru its shift changes, it shifts three times without any hiccups, than after the final transmission shift the truck starts to miss, like if it is being starved of fuel. I think if it was dead pedal, it would happen at the beginning when i am initially accelerating and not at the last transmission shift. CAJFLYNN - is this what happens to your truck? please explain your symptoms. It seems that you live with the same problem. Have you figured it out?

yes, i have already reset the apps on various occasions. I think i am going to diagnose the apps just to eliminate that area. As for the cruise control, it was working fine prior to replacing vp44 and APPS.

I have an automatic as well. I guess i read too fast and didn't catch the manual transmission part:doh:. Aren't the transmissions the same? i don't have an HO, therefore the tranny's should be the same, correct? It started at over 70, but now it seems that it happens within 30 and 70 and at sporadic intervals as well. I am definitely not describing a dead-pedal issue. Did this issue arise as soon as you switched out the vp44? I tried setting the cruise control and it did not want to work. I tried a few more times and then it worked. When i pressed on the brake to disengage, the engine rev'd up as if i was pushing on the gas pedal, btw cruise control has not yet disengaged, i pressed the brake even harder and then finally the cruise control disengaged. Does cruise control work on your truck?