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I might have found my problem. I was running some diagnostics on the apps harness using the article posted on this forum. I have continuity between ground and blue/white wire. It says to fix short. How do I do that? Doesn't that wire blue/white go back to ecm?Any feedback would be appreciated.

Bueller?........Bueller?...........Bueller???Fry?

what about ABS light?

ECM code should be more like "666":evilgrin: code, man this little bug is kicking my arse. Do you know where the switches are located? Within the fuse box under hood? or within fuses located on drivers side? Appreciate your feedback

no luck, thanks for asking. yes, as soon as i reconnected the harness, than i reconnected the batteries and made sure everything was still working and the lights just stayed on. Do you think disconnecting the batteries for some time will reset the ECM & PCM? Or do i need to take it in and have them re-program? Additionally, I am beginning to suspect that maybe i have a timing issue with the VP44 i just installed, which is why my dead pedal will not go away. I think if i install a noise filter, my feeling is that it would only put a band-aid on the problem and not fix it completely. I have read in other posts that it fixes the problem, but the problems tend to come back. The noise comes from somewhere or something. Does anybody think that maybe i need to look into replacing the alternator?

yes, test at your own risk. I just spoke to John with ECM togo and he advised me that a better way to test your ECM is to pay the big bucks:spend: and have an authorized dealer test the ECM. As of right now he said that there are no parts whatsoever, therefore if you have a problem with your ECM, you are SOL . as far as the break light and parking break light, was that due to me unhooking the pcm wiring harnesses? Why would this happen i disconnected the batteries? Any feedback would be appreciated.

I looked at my history and i did not get the ECm check from DTR. i got the information from ECMtogo website, which had the following information on diagnosing ECM functionality (insider tip for chrysler vehicles), which is as follows: First assess your symptoms. Is your car starting and running, but stalls or seems to not idle right. If so, is the check engine light illuminated MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) on intermittent or all the time? If so, what are the MIL diagnosis codes? Try pulling ECM and looking and smelling for burns. Have your ECM tested to be sure it is functioning properly. If the ECM is bad, have it repaired or replaced with known remand or new unit. see www.ECMtogo.com If ECM is OK, then follow the error codes it gives, and check the appropriate malfunction (i.e.: check engine light coded you had bad oxygen sensor, try unplugging it and restarting car to see if any change in running or the MIL. If no change, try putting a known good used unit in, or buy new unit if in your budget.) Have ECM scanned in car by authorized tech with proper scan tools specific to application (only after installing or verifying you have a good ECM). Most manufactures have specific tools to there equipment even though there are many scan tools that can do basic diagnosis. This scan should show what elements are giving you the problems. There are some ways to check error codes without scan tool. Refer to manual for key to specific application. This insider tip is for Mitsubishi & Chrysler Vehicles and is quite helpful for diagnosing or testing your ECM. You need a analog volt/ohmmeter, put the testers on pin 1 and pin 10 (top right & bottom left pin) of diagnosis ECM scan cable harness. This harness is inside the cab area, usually in drivers side upper left of drivers kick panel. The sweeping motion left to right means ECM is OK. Sweep right to left means reverse testers to pin 10 and pin 1. A movement to the right without bounce or return means bad ECM. Many models also have ways to check the MIL codes including Honda, Acura, Mazda etc have an indicator light on the ecm or will illuminate the check engine light in series indicating the first digit then the second digit will follow and the indicators will repeat. Any comments?

:doh:Where did you hear that from?

I finally had the chance to do some research on the net. I found this thread on DTR where this guy gave direction on how to check the ECM using an Analog meter. My ECM is okay according to his direction. Additionally, i cleaned the grounds next to the battery, man that was pretty bad. I also cleaned the ground at the PCM. I unplugged the PCM harnasses to check for corrosion, which i found them to be okay. I now have the abs light and brake light on. I peformed the above tasks after i checked the ECM and unhooked the batteries. Any ideas?

dripley, Did you get a code? How did you know that your ECM went bad? Has anyone ever looked into how the ECM communicates with the other components?

do you think that was your problem? do you still get dead pedal? I think its a computer communication problem. The two computers need to be sync'd. Do you know any diesel techs that can confirm this? I was told the ECM needs to be re-programmed so that it can communicate with the VP44, due to the new fueling standards for emissions. How much of this is true?

Did the ECM go bad? It would not throw a code correct? How do i check it? I pulled a wiring diagram from GENO's Garage. I noticed that there are some datalink relays between the ECM and the vp44. Is there anybody out there that is familiar with how they communicate?

Any additional feedback? Anything else i need to check or should check? --- Update to the previous post... BTW, i am still having dead pedal issues.

I used to live in Pacoima, sold the horse, got married, and now i live in pico rivera. I thought maybe there were guys out in this area. i see a lot of trucks out here that have diesel bomber stickers. Have you guys heard of that?

Anybody on this forum near the Los Angeles area of the woods?

dripley, yes, it is running. It hasn't given me any problems starting up since friday. any ideas? Mopar1973man, yes, it looked like a power washer had been under the hood. All,I have eliminated the TIMBO Apps Sensor. I am getting all the correct voltages. I am at square one again. I am now noticing a strange sound coming from under the hood. It kind've sounds like those ticket eating machines at chuck-e-cheese. Am i just paranoid and think everything is wrong with my truck? Any feedback would be appreciated, including any comments regarding my state of

I had to adapt to the situation. I thought i lost pressure as well, but i loosened injector 3 and 4 and the fuel spewed out. I am perplexed. Does anybody know why this would happen? Why would adding carb cleaner to the intake to the booster allow the truck to turn on?

Dripley, the liftt pump is no more than two years old I had some help in getting it started with carb cleaner. The guy told me it happens to him alot when he doesn't let the truck warm up. Any ideas?

cajflynn, i called him but kept getting his voicemail. I will try again this weekend to troubleshoot my problem further. okay, so i reset my apps. i checked the old battery and it was at 12V disconnected and 13 V connected while the truck was running. I think i can rule out the battery. I also cleared the codes yesterday due to obtaining the P0122 code. This morning i turned the truck on and it was having a hard time trying to start up as if it was being starved of fuel. The truck eventually strated running fine. I let it sit idle for about 10 minutes. On my way to work, i was still experiencing dead pedal and now the truck felt like it wanted to turn-off on me like if it was running out of fuel (i still have about 1/4 tank of fuel left). I was about a couple of blocks from my work when the truck finally died:ahhh:. I tried turning it on, but no luck. Any ideas?

dripley, thanks for your response and greetings. i stand corrected. there is no rpm change. your description is accurate. I am going to assume that since these heaters have a very large amp draw, than it is possible that my apps sensor(TIMBO or stock) is seeing low voltage at the time, therefore resulting in the gear-out of gear feeling. Is this correct? Are these heaters on all the time or are they only on at initial start-up? At the time i took the measurement using a DMM, the batteries were not connected. Should i re-connect and take a reading? TerryC, thanks for your response. No, i did not use an ANALOG meter. I used a DMM. No, I do not have any fueling/ timing box on my truck. It is a stock assembly, with exceptions to lift pump, VP44, and TIMBO Apps. Thanks again!

i still get dead pedal. I am back to square one. One of the things i am noticing now is that when i initially start the truck and i am idling in "D" at a stop light, it seems like it gets out of gear and then gets back into gear as the truck is switching back and forth, do you know what i am talking about? it is when the truck is initially turned on and during warm up, there is this loud click that changes the rpm of the motor to really high, then clicks back really loud to low rpm. can someone please explain?

Sorry about the delay! mopar1973man, thanks for the response. I did not check the pressure of the lift pump when i initially replaced them, my bad. I did check the lift pump pressure this weekend and it was above 10 psi. Ini regards to the TIMBO Apps, i started from scratch and re-installed it as instructed. The Initial voltage was fluctuating between .604-.605 volts and never stopped. I turned the idle stop screw until it changed to .606. I proceeded to 1/2 a turn and got back to .605, than added an additional 1/2 turn and ended up at .604-.605( fluctuating). Please explain why there is fluctuation or do i need to turn till it get a solid .604? ISX, thanks for your response. I had the battery on the passenger side checked and i am still at 12V. Terry C, thanks for your response. I did check to see if my voltage would fluctuate using a digital voltmeter and did not observe any numbers jumping around. I did notice that i started at .604/.605V (fluctuating) and ended up at 3.09 volts. Is this correct? I read another thread that said they started at .5V and ended up at 5V. Is this why i am getting a P0122? cajflynn, thanks for the response. I will look into this further by reading other threads pertaining to the ground isolator. I thank you all for you patience in advance.

Hello all, I am new to this site and wanted to kick something around maybe get some feedback and troubleshooting help. When i would turn on the truck, i would usually let it idle for awhile. I would put it in “D”, push on the gas, the truck would start to travel, than it will suddenly get the case of the "dead pedal" and then kick into gear. This started in a sporadic fashion. It then led to a daily ritual to get to work having to rev-up the engine in order for the truck to move. I have briefly explained below how I got to this point. The beginning of this story is as follows: I initially replaced the fuel lift pump when I first got the signs of white smoke coming out of the tailpipe and the engine stalling out with my check gages notification on the dash (5 years ago). I replaced the lift pump, the problem went away for about 2 years (no codes). The white smoke eventually came back, so I replaced the lift pump again and the white smoke went away again and lasted for 2 years (no codes). I replaced it with a third and changed out the filter (1 year)(no codes). I finally got the case of the dead pedal and replaced my VP44 at 189,000 miles (figured it was time since I did not get any codes and read bluechip diesels overview). I installed the VP44 and finally got a companion code P1693 when i tried to start it up. I finally pulled the codes from the PCM and got the P0122 low voltage APPS code. I replaced the original APPS with a TIMBO and I now I have intermittent dead pedal. I also have the loss of power like if I am towing something at take-off. I punch the gas violently than the truck finally starts to sputter and then go away and begin to function properly and picks up speed. On the interstate, the truck runs fine once I start traveling at a constant speed. This behavior only occurs initially at rest or when I slow down and then punch the gas. I have questions that may or may not relate to my problems, which are as follows: [*]When i replaced the VP44, did i somehow take it off its timing? [*]Does this mean my ECM is the culprit and not the VP44? [*]Can i rule out the transmission due to not pulling any load? [*]Did i purchase a bad OEM VP44? When I installed the TIMBO Apps, I smelled burnt plastic that eventually went away. I am attributing it to that new plastic smell. I also noticed that when I hooked up the voltmeter, I got a reading of .510. I followed the instructions and when I turned back to ½ a turn as instructed, I ended up at .510 again, is this right? (the original apps has .521 VDC) Do I need to set it at .521, .498, or leave it at .510? I have recently replaced one of the batteries (drivers side), but still have the original battery on passenger side. Can it be related to the problem that I have? Do I need to replace that battery as well? Any and all comments are welcome. I thank you for your feedback in advance.