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Not necessarily. According to this article posted here, www.allpar.com/model/ram/1994-ram.html, it seems that electronic cruise control was added and i quote, "Finally, in 2001, the company added electronic cruise control to the manual-transmission diesel, made four-wheel antilock disk brakes (with dual-piston rear calipers and electronic variable brake proportioning) standard on Ram 2500 and Ram 3500." How can i find out if i have the vacuum or the electronic version?

Yes, brand new one installed about a month ago. Came straight from the factory inventory where the truck was manufactured from.

[quote name=' So now the situation is that i am having dead pedal above 70 MPH. I can punch the gas on the highway, tranny goes thru its automatic gear shifts, than if i try to accelerate above 70, nothing.[/quote'] Okay, so i checked the lift pump by performing the lift pump diagnostic (TSB 14-002-03 Diesel Transfer Pump Diagnosis) procedure. This procedure tests the "Flow" capability of the transfer pump. It states that if sufficient fuel reaches the injection pump from the low-pressure system, then the cause of the engine performance problem(s) lies elsewhere. The results are as follows: I bumped the starter and the transfer pump was activated, which resulted in more than 45 fluid ounces, therefore low-pressure fuel system was okay. I observed foam within the container. Is this the bubbles that the procedure is refering to? If not, any ideas? I tried to use the cruise control, but noticed that there was some fuel delivery issues. Has anybody out there run into problems with cruise control immediately after replacing VP44? Can this be the root cause of my fuel delivery to VP44? If i were disable cruise control by means of removing fuse, do any of you foresee a problem with that? Any thoughts?

Update!, so i installed an ABS control module which i will call "new" within thread. The module that is on the driver's side, which i got from a 2001 manufactured within a couple of months at the same facility that my truck came out of, small world at the junkyard. The lights remained on, so i decided to take it to the dealer. They hooked it up to the scanner and found an ABS control module failure. The dealer mentioned that the "new" module was from a 97 truck. The tech also mentioned that it was not recognizing the control module and asked if i had replaced the original one. Of course i told him that i had taken it into a shop and had it worked on, but i was still having problems. He told me that he reprogrammed the module with my VIN and wheel rev's, which resulted in the lights turning off at ignition, but once it was driven for about a block the lights would come on again. After three hours of them trying to re-program the "new" control module, the tech finally threw in the towel. They only charged me 60 bucks for hooking it up to the scanner. Does anyone think that the control module i purchased at the junk yard($15) could also have been damaged, due to the truck being in a traffic collision? If not, could this be a sign that maybe there is something else going on? Maybe PCM went out? Any feedback would be appreciated

Hey ya'll,i am back with an update.:banghead: So after a year of having no symptoms since 1/28/11, i am having symptoms again. Not really sure what is going on. I have not gone thru any of the routine troubleshooting steps just yet. I am back for some more schooling!!!! So now the situation is that i am having dead pedal above 70 MPH. I can punch the gas on the highway, tranny goes thru its automatic gear shifts, than if i try to accelerate above 70, nothing. --- Update to the previous post... please read other thread!

Hey ya'll,i am back with an update.:banghead: So after a year of having no symptoms, i am having symptoms again. Not really sure what is going on. I have not gone thru any of the routine troubleshooting steps just yet. I am back for some more schooling!!!! So now the situation is that i am having dead pedal above 70 MPH. I can punch the gas on the highway, tranny goes thru its automatic gear shifts, than if i try to accelerate above 70, nothing.

Warning two dumb questions:?!What if one of the sensors has gone bad, therefore setting the fault that the DRBIII found pertaining to the ABS control module. Does anybody think that this may be the case? I have been told that the control modules(ABS&CAB) rarely go bad. There is a greater chance that the sensors go caput. If switching out the sensors only, does the system still need to be reprogrammed?

Mike, please clarify.When I took my truck in, drbIII found that ABS control module faulty(not the CAB that is in the dash). It is the controller that monitors the two front wheels. Does this one also need to be programmed or can I just replace? I found a replacement (2001).Do you think the sensors would go bad before the abs controller? Any feedback would be appreciated.

Will a 1997 work on my 2001? Falls in the 2nd gen right? Is the chassis diagnostic within the fsm? I would need to re-program, right?

DieselD24, yes, i know i broke my head trying to figure this :banghead: out and i knew that was going to happen. Yes, it was the dead pedal problem, but because there are other items that make up this ingenious fuel system, it was pretty tuff trying to narrow down what system was actually the failure point. i am no diesel technician, but i believe that the ECM stored the codes and the DRBII scan tool could not clear the codes, therefore still allowing my system to go throught the motions of having dead pedal. I think that once the DRBIII scan tool was connected, this tool cleared the error on the ECM. correct me if i am wrong, because i am trying to make sense of it myself. I think i ran into the ABS/Brake light problem due to having the dead pedal. I noticed that i needed to rev up the engine continuosly just to make the truck move, therefore always peeling out the rear wheel once the gear kicked in. It probably overloaded the sensor module. Is this possible? Other than that, you're guess is as good as mine. Okay, so i need answers on the read/write and checksum codes the ECM had stored. I have a DRBII scan tool, which i feel is not capable of clearing the codes completely. I feel that although i cleared the APPS failure, the ECM still needed to be "re-booted", which only the DRBIII can accomplish? Does this make sense? I am trying to justify the money spent on just having those two codes cleared, which i am assuming was the crux of the problem.

Update! Got back from mechanic. Had two codes. Read/write and checksum. Ya'll ever heard of this? I also got a code after a pinpoint test and found abs module failure. I am assuming the codes got cleared cuz now my truck runs awesome!!!!!v:woot:

an ECM for $1400! I went to autozone and they can get me a programmed reman for $400. Does this sound right? It's the troubleshooting Apps article posted on this site, but I still need to verify if it is the ECM that went bad. The Haynes manual states that if the ECM is suspect in failing, the only place that could diagnose it properly would be at the dealer. my plan was to take the truck into a mechanic's shop to diagnose my problems ECM, ABS light, fuel sender, & Brake light. I am hoping that it is just a matter of replacing the sensors(ABS, Fuel, Brake). As for the ECM, i am hoping that he has some type of a process or machine that he hooks up to diagnose it. I will find out on friday and will get back to you all.

I followed the P0122 APPS troubleshooting article posted on this site. I got to step six and had continuity, therefore directing me to replace ECM. I am debating what avenue to proceed. There is a shop out here in downey, ca that will charge me $250 just to plug in the truck and see what's going on with ECM, abs, and brake light issue that i have. I might have them check the fuel sender sensor as well. or take into the dealer and have them diagnose the problem. what do you all think?

I would like to personally send a full round of THANKS to all of those that put an effort into resolving my issue. thinking i need to take it into dealer to check out ECM. Has anybody out there been through the process? I sure would like to know before hand, so as to not be jerked around:spend: any feedback would be appreciated.

Yes, it was infinite ohms. I checked again this morning and I don't have a short. The bad news is that according to the apps diagnosis, my ecm is bad. Sure wish there was a way to correct. Going to take it in ad have them verify.:banghead:

Update! I checked all pins as directed. My findings are as follows:apps to ecm test (pins 1-6): all had current (.3) thru them(batteries not connected)apps to ground (pins 1-6): all had 0 ohms, even the one that should have currentChecked all sensor harnesses connected at s165, which all led back to pin 11 on ecm: all had a reading of. 3What am I doing wrong?

you didn't by chance get the o-ring size? It looks by the image that it is pretty small. [ATTACH]2436[/ATTACH]

Will i still be able to get a voltage reading?

, man they can never make it that easy!

That assembly should be listed within the manufacturer's manual. It should have a blow-up of what that assembly part is made up of.

I am having the same problem. Just noticed it a couple of days ago. I thought the leak was coimg from the banjo fitting below. I initially twisted the top nut that has ridges thinking that it was leaking from that point, which did not solve the problem. I pushed down handle and twisted the valve around till i found a spot where it would not leak. I noticed that it fixed it for now but i am also curious if it just needs a new o-ring. Have you had a chance to take apart and see? I would rather pay 1 dollar for half a dozen o-rings any day.

i meant the 1-25 pin numbers on the left. I am just trying to figure out what wires are related to the APPS harness so that i can trace back in case everything is okay within the APPS harness. Than i can move on to the next item that is in common with the S165 and see if there is a short on that connection.

Mike,Do you know what circuit numbers 1-25 correspond to? Do they correspond to previous circuit diagrams postings? Can you please send me what those circuit numbers correspond to? I thank you in advance.

Mike, the s165 on the circuit diagram, is that another cicuirt that ties into it?