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I wonder if thats the same on a 12v, the 9999mpg thing. I know the fuel pump would still be running and everything but does it just pump it all straight to the tank when I'm coasting? What happens if you push in the clutch while moving, does it give you a mpg reading since it is now using idle fuel? Think I got some good mileage on the way home behind a wide load steel building, based on how I was doing 65mph at 500F the whole time with winter front on and 45F out

Might be good stuff, but it's hard enough to find the dirt bike, let alone oil for it. Yes I ride a KTM I think the oil would be pretty pricey too. They do like to run pretty lean on the oil though, they load up if you run a ratio that all the other dirt bikes run on. It might be really good stuff but it would be so hard to get. You would have to order it and have them UPS it to you or something, most of us anyways. That's the basic reason why the walmart supertech is so sought after, it is everywhere.

You have more motivation than anyone else I know. Keep working on it! Be neat to see those pics. Take your time and make it all look nice.

I'm thinking it would take as much time rewiring it as it would to find this interesting problem. Not to mention I am not an automatic trans expert by any means so there could be more causes than I am thinking that cause this problem. Your truck is very simple though so I think theres just some bare wires somewhere. I still can't understand the only when you floor it or gets to operating temp thing. Still thinking though..

So if you floor it, or if it gets to operating temp, it screws up? Hmmmm

You mean before it screws up, and only when you floor it, it drops to 12.1?

Those wires are corroded enough aren't they What voltages do you get when the truck has sat all night (drained residual voltage)? What voltage do you get with it running but not messing up?

I am just trying to figure out why the voltage drops. You should unhook the 2 positive grid heater leads, wrap them in electric tape, and see if that makes any difference. Make sure truck is halfway warm If the alternator stopped working, it would just drop to 12, the grids are the only thing that has a big load like that. A short would do it too but I assume you don't see any melted wires, or leads touching each other. If you can figure out whats pulling all that load, it would probably solve all the problems. Not sure why the engine temp does something but who knows if the wiring is all homemade.

It's not really that hard to keep it from smoking. Normally the smoke screw keeps the fuel rate low enough to not smoke, but when you adjust the smoke screw, you are adjusting the amount of boost needed to give you full fuel. It loosens the spring tension so it's not as hard. So instead of 5psi, it might only take 1-3psi to give you full fuel, since this is insufficient boost pressure, it can't burn all of the fuel being shot in, then you get your black smoke. But you also have to give it the fuel to make it smoke.. Basically you floor it before the turbo is building boost, and it will puke your smoke, but if you drive it normal, it won't smoke. You can see all the gauges here scroll down a little http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/manufacture/manufacture.htm Not sure if you can buy them too easily from those sites. I know a lot of people get on http://www.summitracing.com All the gauges on the first link manufacturer list are good. I don't like stacks cause they draw unwanted red and blue attention.. Some of them look good but yeah, mine points at sidewalk

The smoke screw is for pre 5psi boost. To keep the truck from smoking with no boost, it uses that to limit fuel until you have enough boost to allow for more fuel without more smoke. The power screw is what you adjust after you have boost. Getting liquid black isn't too hard if you adjust the smoke screw, it will roll it out until it builds boost. After that, it gets harder to keep up the smoke since the turbo is doing all it can to provide enough boost. Stock, I doubt it would even smoke after boost builds, the injectors won't flow enough fuel to achieve that. Basically to achieve what you want, you have to spend money. The sled pullers trucks didn't smoke that much before they took out a loan.. Lets say you got bigger injectors and all the fuel necessary to do this at full boost, you will only be able to do this for maybe 5 seconds, as EGT's will be soaring. Mine gets up to 33psi and I barely have any smoke and it will reach upwards of 1400F within 5 seconds. I know your young and want smoke like all the other people that have it (which I know since theres about 10 trucks around here with stacks ), but it really isn't worth it. Just do the smoke screw thing and when you step on it and it starts to build boost, it will be smoking.

I got to thinking about all this and remembered my ford. It has a tube going up the valley and then 90's into the intake. Interesting idea but the whole intake was of course, coated in the crap. Definitely would keep from leaking oil until the truck flipped over. Not that it would matter since it never seemed to contain more than a quart at any one time.

That looks like it would work. I haven't messed with that screw on the rotary pump I have but I'm thinking the solenoid would have to be very strong to over come the spring. We are talking about the smoke screw as shown in this pic right? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/1stgen/inc-pump/inc-pump.htm

Well the grid heater thing just saves your alternator and batteries from being overused when you restart your truck and it's already warmed up. Like moparman unhooks his entirely all summer to save on his, but you can also just put a switch on the wire that energizes the grid heater relay. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1278-Switched-Grid-Heater Thats how I did mine. All your ideas are really good and the fact that your planning it all out like you are is also very commendable. Your last thing about the smoke screw is very interesting. You will have to go into detail a little more on that.

Geeez! Lets hope you don't forget the tackle box

It really has to be that or just cavitation keep the valve from doing its job. Not sure how much fuel actually cavitates the valves though. Definitely some water hammer going on but, never read into it. Let me know if it works!

If it's mechanical like that then I bet something is going on with the reducer or needle valve. I wonder if the needle valve got crap in it and isn't shutting as far as it needs to go.. Might take it and the reducer off and loosen the needle way up and shoot some brake cleaner or something in there to clean them out. Bout all I can think of. Changing the fuel filter might have pulled the fuel back and particles out of the needle valve, then when you drove it they got pushed right back into the valve. Bout all I can think of.

Well I was just reading to see what gauges do when they die, thought they just, died. From what I can find out, this is true. They don't give erratic readings or anything. I been thinking about cavitation eating things up in there too. Is the gauge mechanical? Or does it need power to work? My EGT gauge needs power and it gives erratic readings when the power wires aren't getting a good connection, but I think yours is mechanical so this wouldn't be part of it. Let me know if it does need power though. I've never messed with a fuel pressure gauge but should the be same as oil pressure gauge, or any other gauge, but if yours needs power to move the needle, that might be it.

It could. Everything else seems to check out fine based on what your telling me. Not sure why it would bounce around though when it should have a constant tension from the constant pressure. But it seems to be the only thing left in the solution box.. I keep thinking the needle valve could have an issue but, doesn't seem to be the case. Let me do some reading on some things.

Now I'm not sure what you mean. If the gauge fitting is loose, it should be leaking fuel.

The only thing I can think of is either a leak somewhere along the line or the needle valve is loosening up while your driving. The needle valve could also have something going on with it. Pretty fail proof but so is the fuel pressure gauge so have to think outside the box on this one. I'm betting its backing off a little while driving though.The pressure in the line behind the gauge should be rather constant, so the gauge wouldn't give those readings, the guage should either work or not work. There is just something going on with the needle valve.

Those aren't stupid, very smart of you to be thinking ahead like that. Only other thing I can think of is grid heater override, but you being in Canada, not sure it's that big a deal.

Dang Russ! Looks like you guys have had a lot to deal with lately. Good to see that everything is working out. Someone I know in Michigan said the water table is so high that his basement flooded (no sump), said he hadn't had an issue for 20 years, then he had 2ft of water in his basement. That was a few months back. We have definitely made up for being below the average rainfall around here. But things are looking up, all that ice already melted off my truck

Ah, didn't think of that. I didn't fish all last summer either. Went down to the pond a week ago and watched the million bluegill nibble at it. So overpopulated that it doesn't support any of the slower bigger fish. Need to get one of those gar I always catch down at the lake and throw it in there This is the biggest thing I have caught thus far. Nobody else was out but me, 30F end of November.. Broke my line when I finally got it to shore so I had to jump on it and try and get it in the bucket. Hard to do when you can't feel your hands Was 22" long, not sure how much it weighed. Caught a few more stripers after that one. Usually go for crappie.

Don't get ahead of yourself, might not have anything to do when summer hits :lol:This kinda evens out our averages for good and bad days though. We had a couple freak 70F days in december and january.

So here is the outlook on this years spring season. BLEAK!What's worse is it was almost 70F friday, looked like this when I woke up today It's like walking through corn flakes because it is right around 32-33 so there are thin layers of ice, then snow, then ice..