ISX

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=173 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=174

I think a lot of people would be switching to macs, IF it wasn't for the fear of not knowing how to use one. I have only messed with the ones at best buy and they are still too "different" for me. Plus I have all this PC software that would become useless. But I have a fast computer now, I can't seem to get a virus, so why switch. But if you managed to make the switch, then that's great. I wish I could get into macs but I seem to be tied to all the PC crap.

I open anything and everything. Can't seem to get a virus. Brother can do it without even getting on the computer. :confused:

How does a battery reading 12 volts only drop to 11.2 and yet mine are all at 12.65 and drop to 11.1, all FOUR of them mind you! Now I don't know what to think. Jumping voltage seems so weird. I only took a 2 week crash course on motors, only learned parts. So I don't know, bad voltage regulator, bad brushes, belt slipping, :confused:

Well first off, you should check your voltage with the truck off and the grids on.. :wink:I don't know if I would jump to conclusions about the alternator. I run mine hard all winter and it's still stock and yours is 5 years newer. Are you sure your fancy overhead lights aren't turning on and off from a loose connection giving you a jumping voltage? Not sure if you can see them from inside the truck during the day or if this was at night or what. :confused: Does it jump with everything off driving along? I coulda sworn mine was at 14.2 no matter what but I'm only 95% sure.

Alright I added a ton of pictures. Instead of flood this thing just go through my album. Hope this link gets you there.. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/album.php?albumid=19 Didn't know cummins' were built so tight that they didn't need any gasket to speak of between the oil pan and engine..

All I got left to do is find the cherry picker. It is completely done and ready to be pulled. So it took me, about 8 hours. So that means the average diy'er can do it in 4. I am completely covered in oil/grease/antifreeze. I can't wait to put in a CLEAN engine.. :eek:

Heres what I got done so far. Bout 3 hours worth. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=98 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=99 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=100 Those damn timing cover bolts were finger tight. I have seen that out of a lot of 12v's so if you ever get in there, lock tite the hell out of those bolts!

Guess you type "o" a lot. I wouldn't be able to work with that thing. I finger peck, though I kinda made my own style out of it. I only use my index and middle fingers for letters, pinky or ring for backspace and thumbs on spacebar. Somehow still manage 60wpm :confused:

I coulda sworn someone had a writeup on making the brights and normal lights both be on at the same time. You can see how much brighter it is when you have the brights on and pull the turn signal level back to turn them off, but hold it back and both are on.

You have an auto so I would expect a little more brake wear. I assume it acts like it's in neutral when you let off to slow down for a stoplight, instead of staying locked and dragging you down like a manual does. Not sure if yours is like that or not, never drove an auto cummins. I always leave it in 4th gear and let off and that will get me down to 25mph, then I hit the brakes. Never changed a brake pad on mine, had it for 70k now.

I think if I retract all the legs and the arm on the cherry picker it will be fine. I got the jack on it on the farthest out hole so it should be perfect. If not, I just remembered we used the front end loader on the tractor to pick the 6v53 detroit out of my truck bed (which is a supposed 1400lbs). One way or another it's happening. I am going to take a million pics for you all. I don't know about anyone else but even on the huge forums, I seldom see much deeper than whats under the valve covers, so I am going to attack it with cam in hand and take a million pics since it's hard to get a good shot of things when it's still under the hood. If you guys got anything in particular you want a good shot of let me know. :thumbsup:

I'm sure I could do what needs done without taking it out, but I'm just dieing to see it in all it's entity. Plus I can clean the chassis and motor mounts much easier.

The hell with it. Engines coming out! Went and looked and I think it will be easier than taking out my 7.3, which took less time to do than it did to set my valves last weekend

At least he can fix his leaks easily. I got a leak around the last 2 valve covers that are shoved into the dash. I'd like to just pull the engine so I could get to everything but not sure I want to tackle that kind of task yet. Not sure the cherry picker will even pick it up, much less the front end loader on our small tractor

I have gallons of simple green but oven cleaner sounds better. Wonder if it will eat my valve cover gaskets :confused2:

I've got some oil leaks and such and it's built up into grit and grime and I've never had a chance to tear things apart and fix them until now. I have an entire week that I have nothing to do and won't be needing my truck. So I was wondering what the best thing is that will melt all the greasy residue off of everything. Let me know what other tips you have for making it spotless are.

Hmm, guess I need a truck with dynamic timing

From what I can tell, you were expecting more power from cleaning those sensors. The IAT sensor only determines when the grid heaters turn on, so your not going to see any power difference there. The MAP sensor does more but just because it was dirty doesn't mean it wasn't doing it's job. I don't believe any chip overrides these sensors as they are a vital part to determining certain factors of the engine, without them, the computer would just be guessing with things.. People do unplug the MAP sensor for more smoke but it does not gain them any power, think it actually loses power.

Was it the speed sensor?

There we go. And keep that truck off! Drain them batteries :biggrin: BTW, with nothing major on and truck driving down the road, what voltage you get? I get 14.2v no matter what when driving.

Alright I still am curious, cause it seems you have a charged up voltage, a running with grids going voltage, and a voltage of it running with the grids off. I wanted to know the voltage of it when the engine is off and the WTS light is on with both grids going, that is where I got my 11.09..

Wait wait, your telling me, you have been making me wait, dieing to know, and all you had to do was turn the scan gauge on and turn the key! How old are your batteries?

Not sure about the letter codes, the 1693 comes on if there is any other code, but the 0720 suggests your output shaft speed sensor is messed up, or has a loose connection. P0720 (M) Low Output Spd Sensor RPM Above15 mphOutput shaft speed is less than 60 rpm with vehicle speedabove 15 mph (4-speed auto. trans. only).I'm not much on 24v's but I think that means it messes up over 15mph, and I take it thats as high as 2k rpm in first gear is letting you go?

How much power does the block heater use? According to my meter, I get exactly 6.25amps/120volt/19.2ohm/750watts. So to figure how much it would cost you, take 3/4 (750watts/1000watts) and multiply by the amount of time in hours. So 5 hours x 3/4 equals 3.75. That is how many kWh you used.. So just take 3.75 x price of a kWh. If it's 7 cents/kWh, 5 hours would cost you 3.75 x 0.07 = $0.26. If you have any other questions, I would prefer you post to the forum. You can also PM me but it is nice to have other members jump in on threads and have them fill in gaps that I might not have seen..