ISX

The second vid is the same as what I do on my dirt bike in the woods, cept the rails are trees. Nothing like the feeling of scraping the bark off trees on either side of you at the same time and wondering what woulda happened if they were a 1/2" closer We should all plan a big enduro thing, bring your 4 wheelers and what not. Thanks for the vids Moparmom.

If you had a banjo bolt that goes into the supply line on the side of the pump with 1/8" NPT threaded into it for a fuel pressure gauge, would that solve your problems?

Alright its 97-99 that had that style filter. Before was spin on and after is those snazzy ones.

Most common leaks that I have noticed are the tappet cover, timing case cover, and oil pan. The bolts on the bottom of the timing cover come loose a lot. I put some "never come out again (so my brother says)" stuff on those bolts and I think they are still tight but I'd have to check. I have my ppump off so I should probably finally take care of the tappet cover gasket.

I just calculated and if this mileage per say was at 2200RPM (guessing since you have 4.10's) and 55mph and 8mpg, vs. 18mpg....thats a 4 GALLON an hour difference.... That equates to 64 cups, meaning every minute you could take a cup of diesel and just dump it out the window.. Now you see why I don't get it. It's almost like one injector is just puking the fuel into the exhaust and not burning it and the exhaust heat is just vaporizing it. But then you have no miss... I mean to me it's like if everythingggggg was a little off canter, mayyybe it would accumulate to that kinda loss. But to have that and no symptoms other than a symptom that says it's not getting enough fuel... Definitely the truck of my dreams. A problem that doesn't make sense

It's just this pump of mine lol, the rest have a flat top plunger. There is one thing I just noticed as I measured everything to see if I can actually calculate the degrees. The area past the end of the retarding notch has no helix under it.. The helix stops at the end of the notch. Meaning if you did the rack plug mod, there is no "end of injection", just an end of the stroke So then you can say you are truly maxed out

Across the internet, the common myth is that the retarding notch is never used on a stock truck unless you do the rack plug mod (you'll see what I mean by this if you don't already know) which lets the rack go further and into the retarding notch. Because of this, people say never to do the rack plug mod on 215 pumps. The problem with the notch is that it retards timing at high RPM for emissions reasons. Retarding timing at high RPM has its own drawbacks though, including high EGT and less efficient burn and stuff. With that said, the 215 pump not only gets to the retarding notch, but is ALWAYS in it. In fact, the few people who did the 215 rack plug mod had more power and boost and everything else. I say few because it wasn't long after that the retarding notch myths came up and people were told it was stupid to do on a 215 pump because it moves the rack further and finally reaches the retarding notch which supposedly retards 4* (haven't tested for actual degrees yet). So here are PICTURES showing the damn proof, once and for all. This is straight from my 215 pump straight out of my truck which runs fine etc etc. I even took out the delivery valve on barrel #2 to make sure #1 wasn't set wrong (I had messed with it's calibration before). Here is where it is at idle. Now remember with all these pics that the spill port is not closed until it is completely closed...meaning the very top of the port determines start of injection. So although parts are in the notch, the top part is the determining factor. My retarding degree guesstimates are based on the 4* supposed difference and how far up it was on the taper (so halfway up the taper is 2* retarded...). The green line is the center of the spill port, so match it to the plunger and thats where the timing is regulated. The red line is the edge of where max retarding starts. Then at WOT with the stock (#2000) plug in. Then at WOT with the plug removed (max rack travel). And here is what I am talking about when I mention this plug stuff. The aftermarket one is deeper to allow for more rack travel. You can see it actually goes out of the timing notch and advances timing. Meaninggg the rack plug has nothing but benefits on a 215 pump. As long as you have the boost to match the fueling.. So that explains why the timing is all over the map. If you set the timing and the throttle moves at ALL, since the spill port is right on the taper, any movement causes a timing change. Meaning you ideally want it mid throttle. Now I measured all of this on the 160 pump and it does not bottom out the rack on the stock plug so it has no issues with bottoming out. Though it's 0.005" from hitting

The thing that gets me with all this is that 8mpg is dumping fuel... to the point that you might just look for a fuel leak. The lift pump might also be bad, that's why I said fuel pressure gauge rather than changing stuff yet. I just find 8mpg so far fetched without having smoke. If it's being dumped into the combustion chamber and seemingly burning it completely, you should be flying. The fact that it isn't and runs perfect, albeit with low power, is pretty odd. If it was leaking fuel and relieving pressure while it did it then that would explain everything. Might only be leaking under higher pressures or something, but I would definitely spend 5 min looking for anything soaked.

You ever had one of those snorkel lifts rotate and hit the glass? I've used several different ones from the rental place some up to 150' and mannn, some of them you hit the button and they move a foot at a time. Pieces of crap. Others think turtle speed is the same as rabbit speed.

Physically it all stays the same. The top of the plunger is FLAT (cept for my retarded 215 pump but we will ignore that) meaning it always has the same start of injection. They vary the end of injection to change fueling so the duration is longer but always starts at the same spot. This is why everyone is constantly messing with 12V timing... Trying to find that sweet spot between startability/drivability/power/etc.

No they are completely static. Timing is always the same.. Thats why I was thinking fuel pressure since low fuel pressure is noticed higher up when it needs more fuel. That is the overflow valve, don't touch it (for now, it might be the culprit though). It has a spring and ball in it which come out if you take the bolt inside the other bolt out. The one I am talking about is on top of the fuel filter, though looks a lot like the overflow valve one. Maybe you have the old style fuel filter. What I did was took the banjo bolt on the side of the ppump and put it in a lathe and drilled and tapped it for 1/8" NPT.

Got the pump out of my truck from hood open to having the pump on the floor in 40 min. First time I have ever timed doing it. Still just as heavy as always. That thing needs to go on a diet.

That's why I said worry about the fuel pressure gauge for now. The pumps without the retarding notch are easy enough but theres a hole that the delivery valve seat covers and I think it's just a return for fuel that leaks out around the delivery valve but I want to understand it more. I have a bunch of books from bosch that I am still going through and have just started getting to the pump section. I am going to take the pump off my truck today and then go back to my place so I can study it some more. In other words, I'm not blowing you guys off I'm holding out for the ability to explain it more. These aren't like CR's where you just change the number

Personally...if you work less than 10 miles away and its not over 60F all year and you don't pull trailers much, get a little 4 banger gasser car.. These trucks are made for work, not menial tasks like towing a single person to work. I mean you're starting it, killing the batteries with the grids, drive 2 miles to work, drive 5 miles pointlessly to charge the batteries back up, get 15 mpg while driving under these cold engine conditions, and yeah. OR you could get in a little car, start it, floor it, turn it off, go to work, get 30mpg with the 75 cent cheaper fuel. It's a no brainer to me. I'm not talking a brand new honda accord either. I'm talking a $1-2k honda or toyota....cheap, small, simple.

Well that was a little too easy. I set his timing in 15 min. Now if I could figure out my stupid pump. Retarding notch really screws everything, I want to make a plot of the timing from idle to WOT. Rogan, work on a fuel pressure gauge

Forgot I had it set at 20*. It's still dead nuts at it though, but this retarding notch is doing some weird crap. The transition to it causes crap to happen so I'm taking it off the track and taking it to my apartment for further study. The pump I have there is not a 215 so does not have the retarding notches. As far as the valves during TDC on the valve overlap, the intake is down 0.02" and the exhaust is down 0.016". This is with the valves set at 10 & 20 which I set right before measuring (since I had to mess with them to confirm TDC). So it will work with calipers but that's pushing it. It would be close enough to examine where the timing is. Alright on to set the timing for this guys pump, easy non notched 160 And its on an engine stand so it's gonna be niccce.

Well this is turning into a teardown of my whole truck as usual. I confirmed TDC again and it was exactly the same as before so I got that down pat. So I then centered the timing tab thinger in the portal and ehhh I just figured it out :banghead: as I sit here thinking of it. Hard to think of it in my head when I'm out there I guess. Anyhow, my data tag says 13.5* and I measured how far I was from the TDC point with the pump centered (I advanced it before) and it comes out to about 15.7*. But........I then wanted to see just how far off it was from actual spill port closure. So I rotated the engine backwards and it never closed. I took the delivery valve out as well as the seat it goes in which I believe seals off another hole because I had this problem last time when I had it out, so I put it back in and all was well. However, that was then and this is now and I took that stuff to my place to do a video and therefore do not have them here. But aside from all that, I noticed the retarding notch in my 215 pump is part of the scheme a lot longer than the people on the internet claim. Most claim it doesn't even get used with the stock rack plug. I took the delivery valve holder completely out so I saw nothing but the barrel and the plunger. I then rotated the engine to where the spill port was above the plunger so I could see for myself. It is almost ALWAYS being used. This means that only very low fueling has regular timing and any higher load is always retarded. Not only that, the thing also seems to get to the end of the notch and start to get back to the advanced portion. All of this completely goes against what everyone says and I might just take the pump out of the truck and take it back home with me to study it more. I have a guy who wants me to set his timing right now though so I am going to get his delivery valve seat then run back and test mine again then go back and do his timing. I already have everything apart and want to see how far that pin is off.

Do this now since this pump is here. Now this timing tab thing isn't the gospel it can be off a degree or 2 but all of this is a crude but close enough way to see just how far off the timing is. I mean we should be able to get it to +/- 2* of the stock 12.5* or whatever is on the data plate. And I mean that tab only comes into view at #1 TDC COMPRESSION/POWER

Somehow it's going to be 70* here (and of course drop down to 15* the next day) so I'll go back home and do the valve thing and even video tape every thing you need to do to confirm stock timing. Show you where my fuel pressure stuff is as well. Among other things.

Thanks man!

Interesting. Thanks for that!

I really just need the mm3 thing on the tag on the side of the block. You have the only engine I dont have specs for that on.. Very interesting window sticker though! Now I gotta go through it and see what options I missed out on

I'm still working on all this so it's a mess but you can see some things amidst it haha. On the very right hand side (injection crap) the first column is my truck and the second column is variables if my truck had 50% efficiency. Bigger engines are pulling off 50-60% efficiency...so its not impossible! Now the issues I'm running into is I have no way of knowing the HP of my truck based on mpg and other things. Just because I get XX mpg doesn't tell me anything as to how much power it takes to go 60mph even if I stayed at that speed the entire time. You might think it sounds easy enough if I used BTU content but I have no clue knowing how efficient the engine is at that time (how much of this BTU is being thrown out of the radiator...) I have to use the data plate information to get an efficiency and all of my calculations are based on THAT efficiency. So my 25mpg at 60mph is based on 33.4% efficiency, which means it is using 40.52HP. However, 12 valves are completely static so it is wrong to assume it is 33.4% at every RPM/load, but I have no other way to measure it unless I was on a dyno ANDDDD measured fuel rate at the same time. You MUST have both. The fuel BTU/lb is also an assumption based on what I found on the internet, different fuels have different BTU contents so theoretically the fuel you use should be tested as well. This all sucks because obviously a guy getting 20mpg and 25mpg with identical trucks is going to have different efficiencies, but I would need the HP as well. I have no clue how the scangauge measures HP but until I find out (from one of you if you know) then I will be very weary of it's accuracy. This is too big for the forum so you guys will have to click on it. http://www.mopar1973man.com/isx97/Efficiency/Efficiency1.jpg

No you put it where all the fuel is going to dump out of the injection pump. After the fuel filter..

Top of the fuel filter you will see a screw on top of the banjo bolt (screw inside a screw). You just crack it open half a turn and watch the bubbles like you did in pre school when it was nice out.