ISX

I went to georgia pulling a trailer and around 40psi I ended up blowing out the intercooler boot and jesus that thing smoked The stock clamp is stripped out at a certain point allowing me to only get it so tight and now it only holds about 25psi before blowing it off again. I found the boots and stuff for $$$$$$$$$ but just the high tension spring loaded clamps are only $7 each so I was wondering if the stock boots really need changing. I know a lot of people switch to aftermarket ones but I have never read anything about the stock boots having issues but wondered if anyone on here knew anything about them. I don't really see a reason to upgrade but I think the aftermarket ones are thicker, I wonder if the high tension clamps will have issues with the thin stock ones

On cummins quickserve if I put in my CPL it shows no rating for exhaust size but the same engine in generator configuration is supposed to have 4" ran from it OEM. It's not like we don't see WOT just like a generator so somewhere it got reduced to 3", maybe just because of the service factor (when do you run WOT 24/7...). They could easily detune the engine so it wouldn't melt at WOT. The 3" would also cut down on drone (like 4" even has any but still). They do a lot of things as a selling point. Not everyone wants a truck with stacks and a turbo out the hood.. It's much better to make something for the common man who just wants a truck to pull his fishing boat to the lake and relax. For those wanting more, buy a cutting torch.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/909-3rd-Gen-Error-Codes http://www.newenglandturbodieselpower.com/Forums/showthread.php?t=924 http://store.dieseltruckresource.com/cofaco.html

They make FM transmitters that you can plug into that jack, then you set the radio to a dead channel and set the transmitter to it and there you have it. XM was nice, will be much higher quality than the cell phone. I notice if I use headphones on the cell phone it sounds like crap. I can't hear all the crap in the truck with that god forsaken cummins being so obnoxiously loud all the time, it's like it thinks its funny.

For some reason my phone came with "sprint radio". I have an audio jack on both the phone and the radio so I can play it off the phone just like satellite radio. Somehow the thing never skips a beat even in the most desolate of areas that I somehow can't even get a text in, yet the radio still plays Sounds like you go in places that might have absolutely no cell phone signal at all so XM might be the only option. My brother got a free subscription to it for a year for fixing a guys truck and he didn't want it so I used it. It was nice, never lost signal even in bad weather. The songs weren't as "in tune with the world" as FM stations though.

That's a 160hp pump. If you search the whole number you can find them but I will see what I can do about a complete list. I found out the other day that the rv ppumps from 94-97 had 235hp and 605tq stock, would be nice to find all the other pumps they made and their ratings.

Alright now I see where your coming from. I even put a needle valve at the pump and at the gauge in the cab, so there's 2. If you almost sinch it off it starts reading high pressures but that is so tight that it is just holding the peak pressures. It needs to be a little lower (some needle movement). I know it is bad for the gauge but that's just the way it has to be. These lift pumps pump too slowly to work like a 24V. If you watch Mike's vids on his 24V you can see his needle goes insane but I can leave my needle valve loose and the needle on the gauge just vibrates but isn't exactly insane. This means he can do it a lot easier than we can. I also noticed the overflow valve doing it's thing. You can get to about 35psi and then watch it fall to 25 then build back up. On a downhill left in gear coasting I can hit 43psi or so, I take it that is only because there is no fuel being used and the overflow is jamming out as much as it can but it's still not enough to regulate the pressure so it spikes to above 40. I have it semi-permanent in my truck, last time I did just a quick run and that's all I did this time as well. I am going to play with it all week and see what it does. I wasn't able to get under 30psi at WOT but I am not sure if the needle valve was too tight so I will continue messing with it and eventually get some video. I drew a picture showing the differences. The center line is what the gauge is doing with the perfect needle valve setting with the other lines being the pressure pulsations of the lift pump. It shows that even with it perfect, there is just too much time in between pulsations on the ppump lift pump to show a solid gauge needle, it will go up and down. This is idle speed.. As RPM goes up, it becomes possible to get the thing to stay solid, in theory, need to see if it works out through the week. The 24V pump is electric, so it's basically like we were doing 3000RPM continuously (maybe faster) so they have no problem with time between pulsations and are able to get the gauge to hold steady.

Got everything I need now!

It didn't sound like an exhaust leak, I got lots of leaks down my exhaust and my forsake exhaust valves never sealed, that was more of a choking backpressure sound.

Yep, I redid their chart if you scroll back up to the first post (I edited it). Their table is a little caddywompus.

You would look on the side plate for the number 0 402 736 ---, the last 3 digits dictate it. Look at this website and match it up. http://www.chathamfuel.on.ca/generic.asp?pg=appl_59&ti=Applications - Cummins 5.9

I've been finding a lot of stuff across the web lately but geeeeez its a pain to find it all. I'm compiling everything I have found into this thread. What I have found is really good info and tells just about everything about the p7100. This concerns specs/teardown diagrams/all kinds of stuff. Clicking on these "[source]" takes you to where I found it. I don't like stealing people's info without giving them credit. Pump Specs There are 2 number plates on the P7100, one is underneath the throttle plate on the drivers side of the pump so you have to take the 3-10mm screws out and take that plate off to see it. That number plate concerns the front half of the pump. The other plate is on the very back of the pump and dictates governor characteristics. The numbers on the back of the pump will be something like RQV400...1150PA1172K Which decodes to: R = Governor Q = Transverse spring V = Variable speed governor 400 = Rated minimum speed (idling speed = 1/2 engine speed, engine idle 800RPM) ... = controlled range 1150 = Rated maximum speed (= 1/2 engine speed, engine max speed = 2300RPM) P = P series pump designation A = Modification letter 117 = Type code 2 = Suffix K = Torque matching by characteristic. [source] The numbers on the side of the pump (under the plate) will look like this: PES6P110A120RS7213 0 402 736 906 96628 08721 The first one can be decoded like this: PES6P -Denotes number of cylinders and Basic Pump Model 110 -Denotes Barrel & Plunger Size in MM A120RS -Denotes Cam rotation direction (Cummins is Right) 7213 -Denotes Pump series (2000, 3000, 7000, etc) [source] The next line of numbers seem to be a cummins lookup thing, but this website has put together a list of them, among other things. http://www.chathamfuel.on.ca/generic.asp?pg=appl_59&ti=Applications - Cummins 5.9 Here is that chart in a little easier to read format. Timing Lift values are found here. Timing Lift values expanded version. Injector Size Specs. Delivery Valve Flow Specs. Diagrams/Pics Big article on how the P7100 works (PDF) P7100 Dissected [source] [source] [source] Delivery Valve Dissected Injector Material Injector Dissected That should do it for specs and diagrams. More stuff to come another day..

He has a banks power something or other. He is on 35's that are a foot wide and 20". Also has 4.56 gears so he does 70 at 2500RPM. It's jacked up and all that other stuff. I just have a hard time understanding how that effects mileage so much yet I can pull our trailer and never scratch anywhere near 10mpg. I guess there is ton more impact on how you get the power to the road than how much power is actually needed. As in, I could probably pull his truck behind me and get 15mpg because of how I get the power to the ground. I guess you should change configurations until the engine output to ground output (dyno rollers) are as equal as you can get them since it seems that is the biggest factor of mileage. I really can't see any other thing happening other than that. You can't tell me a truck sitting up high but still a lot more aerodynamic than a trailer front, can lose all the mileage due to being jacked up. I think the angles on the driveline have an adverse effect on it but the lift itself I don't think does as much as everything that goes along with it that increases losses from engine to the ground.

I rode with a guy the last couple days in a 2002 7.3. Anyhow, it gets 10mpg and the usual powerstroke woes. I went to some forums cause he wants to get the mileage I do so I tried to learn some stuff and basically I'm still without any info. There is nothing that says "this truck uses this fuel pump which is a rotary fuel pump which does this and this........." and lists all the details of how the whole truck works. I know I can find each thing, one at a time, through hours of searching and piecing together... This brings me to exhibit A *brings out poster*, which is to have a sticky in each forum on how these damn things work so when powerstroke guy converts to a cummins, he won't be lost for months trying to piece everything together. I know nobody likes to be the one to initiate these kinds of posts (not sure why) so I will try and get the ball rolling on them all. I'll be honest and say I am not too sure on the CR trucks. I know the principles but there are a lot of sensors on there I have no clue as to what their true purpose is. I don't think it needs to get tooooooo detailed but I probably will get carried away with the 12V section, actually, let me get that one done and use it as an example, though it probably won't have to be that detailed. --- Update to the previous post... Alright here ya go, I'll play with it more tomorrow. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4700-Getting-up-to-speed-with-the-94-98.5-12V-engine

To help those who are new 12V owners, this will give you a rough, possibly detailed idea of how this engine is set up. I made this so people won't have to read for months trying to understand each part and understand the engine, or other brand diesel owners wanting to know how these work so they can help someone else. First we have the specs from the factory of the 1994-1998.5 12 Valve Cummins. There is already a good/complete set of specs for these trucks. 1994-1995/1996-1998 There were hardly any changes from the 1995 to 1996 power differences, mainly just different fueling to provide more power and a slight change in pistons. Year to Year changes can be found here. Here is the part layout of the engine to get familiar with. There is no ECM (Engine Control Module) on the 12V Cummins. The chip on the firewall is a PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and serves only to provide sensory information, it controls nothing about the engine except some timers for the grid heaters and such, the engine does not rely on it at all otherwise. Any error codes from it will concern pointless sensory things which might help but it will tell you nothing about any engine issues. I think there are only 17 possible codes that can be thrown if that gives you an idea.. That list is a full list, most won't apply. If you haven't figured it out thus far, the cummins is an inline 6. The pistons are set to where they have running mates, which are pistons that move together, though on different strokes (one is on compression while the other is on exhaust). Running mates consist of 1/6, 2/5, 3/4. Knowing this will help you understand when adjusting valves since you watch running mates a lot to find TDC. The 12V uses an inline injection pump called the Bosch P7100. It uses 12mm plungers to push fuel much like a "mini" inline 6 engine. Each plunger (piston) is for each individual piston. The plungers are forced upwards by a cam that pushes the plungers up individually based on firing order (153624). Above the plunger is fuel which gets there by means of a little hole (spill port) on the side of the barrel (cylinder wall). As the plunger comes up, fuel is initially pushed back out that hole. The plunger itself eventually covers that hole and because it is sealed, fuel is compressed and after reaching a predetermined pressure, shoots out of the injection pump's delivery valve (high pressure check valve really) and into the injection lines. As line pressure exceeds injector pop pressure, they pop and fuel is injected into the engine. There is a lot more to how it works and how fuel is metered which can be seen here. The injection pump is "turned up" by means of adjusting a fuel plate and AFC settings which allow you several means of fine tuning the power and smoke output. I have articles on this since it is always asked about. Fuel Plate/AFC~Starwheel/Smoke Screw. Fuel is returned from the injectors straight back to the fuel filter, keeping them at lift pump pressures. The only fuel that gets returned is the fuel from the overflow valve in the front of the injection pump. The injection pump's internal pressure (not injection pressure) is regulated at 25-36psi, though up to 45psi is fine. Pressure is regulated with a overflow valve which is just a spring that seats a ball until pressure overcomes the spring and pops the ball out of it's seat, relieving pressure until the ball reseats, thus regulating pressure. The injection pump is driven off the cam gear in the front timing case. The injection pump itself has a tapered shaft that goes into the gear that drives it with just a nut holding the gear on the shaft. The most common way of of timing it is to take the #1 delivery valve out (which takes a special socket, or mess up the teeth with channel locks), and sticking a dial indicator into the hole so you can measure plunger lift. Here is a table showing what lift should be based on CPL number and timing desired. The engine is barred over until proper lift is seen on the dial indicator. The nut holding the gear onto the injection pump is then taken off and the gear is popped off the tapered shaft with a gear puller. The engine is then barred over to absolute TDC since that is what the plunger lifted is based on. The gear will turn but since it is not bolted to the injection pump, the injection pump will remain at the same lift as before. You then tighten the nut on the timing gear back up and confirm you are at TDC and at the lift desired (timing desired). Here is a more detailed writeup of this procedure, remember to refer to the aforementioned table to get lift specs. Fuel is delivered to the injection pump with a mechanical lift pump. It uses the engine cam to push a lobe on the pump which "pumps" fuel into the engine. This is seen as a pulsation of fuel and the pulses get faster with engine RPM since the cam is pumping it faster. It has a manual primer button for bleeding air out of the fuel filter. A fuel heater is right next to the lift pump and consists of a fine mesh filter (bug screen) and the actual heater element. The heater is typically trashed since it never seems to provide any benefit. There are 2 types of fuel filters. The first few years (94'-95' I think) used a spin on fuel filter. The later years (96'-98.5') used an element type fuel filter that goes into a canister. To change the canister version, you look at the yellow lever on the front part of the filter housing, this lever is a valve. Under that valve is a long shaft going to a hose (should be a hose there anyways), put a bucket under that hose as the entire contents of the fuel filter will drain out of that hose. Move the lever towards the engine and it will open the valve and all the fuel will dump. Loosen the nut centered above the fuel filter canister which will lower the canister as it it loosened. The nut will not come out/off, it just spins and is kept in place by some means of connection. At the bottom of the aforementioned valve and maybe off to the side a little is a sensor wire which can be tracked to a connection and disconnected, that is the water in fuel light sensor. Now you can loosen the nut completely and the canister drops down and out. The element pulls right out and a new fuel filter can be installed which should have had 3 new o rings, 1 for the outside lip of the filter (squared edged o ring), 1 for the inside of the filter, and 1 for the inner ring of the canister. Get clean oil on all of these so they will seal correctly. Reinstall and prime the filter using the lift pump primer and by loosening the bleed screw which is a small screw on the top of the filter housing that screws into a larger screw (banjo bolt). Bleed until the air bubbles stop and the fuel is continuous. Loosen slightly injection lines 1, 2, and 3 and crank until it tries to start or fuel comes out of those injection lines, then tighten them back up and start the truck. It will run rough until the air bubbles completely purge out of the system. The fuel shutoff solenoid is the only thing that lets the engine run or stop. It is the only thing controlling it since the engine is entirely mechanical. Aside from the usual glow plugs, the cummins' use grid heaters. This is a coil in the intake manifold that gets hot so all air getting sucked in is heated. How long the grid heaters run and cycle is determined by the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor in the intake manifold. These trucks use a wastegated turbo called the HX35 (WH1C on 94's). They are wastegated in the range of 15-23psi depending on the model of engine. These turbos should not be used for anything over 35psi. They all use 12cm exhaust housings. The wastegate line runs over the top of the engine and tees into the AFC. Being a 12 valve, there are 2 valves per cylinder. They are not hydraulic or anything thus they must be adjusted every 25-50k miles. 15k is better of course. Intake lash is set to 0.01" and the exhaust lash is set at 0.02". Here is a writeup on how to adjust them. The power steering pump is below the injection pump and is driven by the vacuum pump in front of it. The vacuum pump has a gear on the front to mesh with timing gears as it's means of getting powered. The vacuum pump runs a number of things like the HVAC, cruise control and 4wd axle engagement. Leaks will cause the HVAC to default on defrost vents only. The cruise control unit is under the drivers side battery. It works off of vacuum pressure and is a pain to fix once they have gone bad, though cleaning the actuators does help or even fix the issues. RPM sensor is on the front of the engine above the damper. It is a PNP type proximity sensor I believe. The engine itself is direct injected with the injectors off to the side a little. They did not put the injectors directly centered in the bore until the later 1998.5+ 24V's. This means the pistons have a cone that is to one side of it to accommodate the offset injector. That's it for now, let me know if you think something else should be here. I might get some pictures in here.

If I did then I don't remember it. I usually work on everything hot because I hate messing with battery terminals. Every time you touch them they stretch a little more and then they don't grip as tight so then you gotta spread them and file them so they will grip tight again.... If it were me I would reset it but only go to half throttle so then you don't gotta push as much to get full fuel I still want more details on why exactly I have to do this. If you reset the pedal, then disconnect the batteries, then hook it back up, your telling me that the limits will be screwed up like the ECM can't remember anything? I don't see why it would ever have to be reset in the first place, not like the pedal travel ever changes, unless you smash it into the carpet I guess.

It might be a while before I can do this. Working long hours this week :banghead:

What happens if I don't reset it, I just leave the battery cables off, then put them on, then jump in the truck and go..?

What marks on the pulley are you talking about? The intake and exhaust are closed on #1 for a long time, a degree is like 1/16th of an inch and the duration they are both closed is several inches. Here is how to find true TDC. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3758-Finding-Absolute-TDC Just remember to do it EXACTLY as it says, I don't care how stupid you might look for checking the procedure 10 times before doing each step, one mistake can cost thousands. I also don't recommend doing this if you don't have a way to tediously bar the engine. You use the engine barring tool from cummins to do it. You need to be able to go forwards and backwards anyways so the alternator won't allow that. I am not gonna be able to do the fuel pressure thing today so maybe Sunday.

Hmmm, you pose a good point. I used a crappy valve that isn't really even a needle valve. The lift pump pulsates pretty slowly at idle so I think some variation would be necessary, but up higher it should pulsate fast enough to keep the gauge from dancing. I am curious now, 12V guys never really put fuel pressure gauges on their trucks so I haven't seen hardly anything on what the gauge is supposed to do, it's a 24V thing but their pumps are electric so they pulsate fast the entire time. Let me get a real needle valve tomorrow and some better hose and see what happens. I know mine was around 35psi floored iirc. We might just have to use some sort of baffle rather than a needle valve. I gotta look into it more, this is really interesting. I've never read about people saying anything about this issue and assumed mine was just the rigged up setup I used. We will get to the bottom of this tomorrow (hopefully, I only got a 3 hour window to buy the stuff and do it, but I think I can pull it off lol). If I can't get it tomorrow then Sunday I should be back and can do it. Explain what goes on when you loosen the valve up and let it dance, does the pressure go way up when you clamp the line? When you turn the truck off the ppump isn't drawing fuel so the pressure can raise. What does the pressure do once the truck is off? Hold constant or bleed down? If you look in my signature, you can see what my other truck is...I know what your talking about with the dual tank setup For the record, I would put the cummins in my dodge into that truck if it didn't seem like I would waste a dodge in doing so, so don't think that your conversion was a waste because I woulda done the same thing. --- Update to the previous post... Alright I dug and dug and found out a bunch on how to identify that pump. First off there is a black tag with white lettering on the back of the pump, riveted on. There is also one on the side of the pump that will look the same. The numbers on the back of the pump will be something like RQV400...1150PA1172K Which decodes to: R = Governor Q = Transverse spring V = Variable speed governor 400 = Rated minimum speed (idling speed = 1/2 engine speed, engine idle 800RPM) ... = controlled range 1150 = Rated maximum speed (= 1/2 engine speed, engine max speed = 2300RPM) P = P series pump designation A = Modification letter 117 = Type code 2 = Suffix K = Torque matching by characteristic. [source] On the side of the pump is a more meaningful tag. Numbers will look like this: PES6P110A120RS7213 0 402 736 906 96628 08721 The first one can be decoded like this: PES6P -Denotes number of cylinders and Basic Pump Model 110 -Denotes Barrel & Plunger Size in MM A120RS -Denotes Cam rotation direction (Cummins is Right) 7213 -Denotes Pump series (2000, 3000, 7000, etc) [source] The next line of numbers seem to be a cummins lookup thing, but this website has put together a list of them, among other things. http://www.chathamfuel.on.ca/generic.asp?pg=appl_59&ti=Applications%20-%20Cummins%205.9

Your setting of the needle needs to be one spot.. It's either bouncing around or it isn't. It needs to be tightened up until it stops dancing and no tighter. That is the only needle setting that is valid. Kinda like people saying they get 99mpg in a semi truck [on a downhill].. The overflow valve is a ball on a spring, the spring holds the ball sealed until it is overcome by fuel pressure which a new one should open at around 45psi, maybe a little less, you really don't want to run over 45psi because the fuel filter can only handle so much pressure. The spring in that overflow valve gets weak overtime and opens at lower and lower pressures. That valve should remain closed until operating pressure is reached (45psi per new one). When you clamp the line, you are simulating a valve that is shut, so the pressure should build and will keep building until something gives which is why you try and just restrict the line rather than clamp it shut. At idle the pressure is lower but you will still see fuel coming out because the instantaneous pressure is hitting 45psi, but it is taking longer to get to that pressure, therefore the average (needle valved pressure) will be seen more like 20psi because the fuel pump is ran by engine RPM and at idle it isn't pumping very quickly. As speed rises, time between pressure pulses decreases, raising the average PSI you see. I am a little interesting in EXACTLY how the fuel flow goes on your truck. The stock setup goes from the tank (no fuel filter), gets sucked into the lift pump, then goes to the fuel heater, then the fuel filter, then the ppump, then to the injectors, then returns from injectors to the fuel filter. Or the fuel leaves out the overflow and goes back to the tank as a means to regulate pressure since the lift pump does nothing but pump, not regulate. Are you getting all this? I'm trying to get you to understand the logic of how it all works because I am not personally there and you are seeing what everything does that might not make it to the forum so you can diagnose it better yourself, I'm just trying to guide you to be able to do that. It's a very simple design just hard to grasp at times.

It shouldn't be going through the return unless the pressure is at overflow valve opening pressure, try clamping (not fully, remember) the return and see if pressure goes up. Don't clamp tight enough to go past 45psi, if it can get that high.

I would have timing around 15* if it were me. Those pressures are very low. Either the pumps aren't working right or the overflow valve is weak, though you shouldn't be getting 30psi at idle if it is. The stock lift pumps do go out, new one is $75 at cummins. I haven't messed with them enough to say how they go out exactly, spring inside might get weak or something. If I park on a hill my truck will drain a lot of fuel back to the tank, leading me to believe the lift pump does allow return flow, though I am not 100% yet.

I think I can figure out a way to figure out what pump you have since you have a dial indicator and can crank the engine and measure plunger lift. I just have to figure out how to derive it from that chart. How are you determining TDC? The CPL (Control Parts List) is basically like a model version. Kinda like ford (bosch) f150 (p7100) lariat (CPL #).. I didn't know Fritz had this page but it shows you everything http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/Cpl.htm But your have no label on the drivers side of the timing cover case at all? --- Update to the previous post... As for understanding the chart, it is using plunger lift and port closure measurements. The barrel has a hole in it called the uhh why does it allude me. Starts with an S Swash plate is all I can think of for some reason. Oh, SPILL port. That hole allows fuel in above the plunger, the plunger goes up (pushing fuel back out, so nothing happens) and then the plunger itself covers the hole, this is the start of compression of the fuel (or start of injection). At THAT exact point is how much lift the plunger goes to get to that point. That is where all of their charts are derived. I made a video on this a week ago so you can see what exactly happens inside the pump. The groove (helix) in the plunger only varies where the injection ends, the starting point is always the same (unless you have a 215Hp pump and are to the floor but thats for another day lol). http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3S65hqFaUo

It doesn't really matter since they have the same specs as far as timing numbers are concerned. They must have adjusted the plate rather than anything else to be able to get that 15hp bump. I think your issue seems to be more with this fuel pump ordeal than timing, though you should get that fixed as well.