ISX

Hook your TT on and do the same test... Without any real load the engine just ends up using more fuel to turn more RPM's since it isn't using any actual power to move the truck 55mph, just using fuel to turn the engine faster. The EGT's would be even higher but 4th gear has more leverage so it keeps them just a little over 5th gear's EGT's. The turnaround point comes when you hook on to a load. When the truck is in 5th gear pulling 20k lbs (drastic to get the point across) up a 7% grade at 55mph, he is gonna be pulling maybe 1600RPM's, black smoking like crazy, melting pistons, everything, but the turbo will be maxed out at wastegate pressure. Exploring this deeper as to why his EGT's were high enough to melt the whole engine, we get to a simple formula that states that more air going into the engine means more air going out of the engine, which means more heat expelling out the exhaust. The other part of the formula states that fuel quantity does the opposite, raising the combustion temp as more is added. If we come up with a chart showing how much fuel it takes to move an unloaded truck a set speed at different RPM's, you will get a baseline. You will see engine turning horsepower is exponential, starting low and then getting steeper. Engine flow rate based on just cylinder displacement will increase linearly. Boost will be relatively low (remember we are talking constant RPM's, not acceleration). Because there is hardly any boost, the only way to remove heat is with RPM, but with no engine load (no TT), the engine isn't making much heat and therefore the effect is not seen much, if at all. With this baseline, we can compare it with trailer towing and you will see something completely different. The engine turning HP (with TT and all) will look the same (though it will be higher numbers), the engine flow rate will be more because you are adding more fuel, more fuel means more heat which means more expansion and therefore more flow, why else would you get more power from more fuel. If you think of a steam engine it would be like putting a drop of water in or a cup of water, obviously the drop won't do anything but make you think someone let the air out of your tire. Because you get more flow, you get more boost, which loops around back to the intake and gives it more air to get hot and expand more and get even more flow until it all equalizes out. The boost will be much higher than baseline because of all the expanding air from the fuel combustion. Now what does this mean for changing gears. The key here is engine flow.. The effect seen with an unloaded truck is reversed when loaded (though the principle is the same just not seen much, as I stated). In 5th gear the RPM's are low, so there isn't much heat removed solely from engine flow itself, the boost helps it out and allows that hot air to be shoved out. The fuel injected per power stroke is high. The high fuel and low engine flow can cause the black smoke if boost isn't there to make up for the loss in engine flow. Stick it in 4th, now you have engine flow. The pistons are shoving all the hot air out, though boost isn't as much, it is overcompensated for by engine flow. The fuel injected per power stroke is lower, further helping the EGT's remain lower. IF you were able to raise boost to the point of making up for the loss in engine flow, you could remain in 5th gear. Obviously as load increases, boost will need to increase, because you will be using more fuel so need more boost to compensate for....... Most of the issue is getting it to make boost during any situation/load. And so the VGT was born, the rest is history. If I'm wrong let me know

Must explain the .299 exhaust compared to my .263. Hmmm, thats very interesting. Another thing if you look at post #12 of this thread you see my valve duration is much longer than what they post for my cam, I wonder why that is. I set them to the stock 10/20 values for my test. I definitely need to redo that and measure the other side of the rocker. I might have a stage 6 cam and not even know it

Yeah I saw you posted that somewhere else, maybe earlier in this thread and I was wondering why I was seeing a lot more lift, it just hit me after seeing that site and looking at my avatar that the cam lift and valve lift had different relationships. I'd still like to measure it on the other side of the rocker and see lol.

Yeah I am not really seeing too much of a difference on "once spooled" running. I drive really consistent but I need something like a generator with a set load to see if there is any difference while its running, it is just too tedious. That is cam lift which is different than valve lift. The cam goes up .235, but the rocker is not a perfect teter totter, it changes the lift by putting the fulcrum closer to the pushrod (look at my avatar). I measured the lift and although I didn't get a set value (calipers weren't as accurate as dial indicator), its within +-.010 of 400. It was the same lift for the intake and exhaust.

I think you are talking about when the valves hit the piston? I measured during the exhaust to intake stroke..valve overlap. I went both ways making sure I was at the right spot where the valves and piston were closest. I realize valve lash is next to nothing compared to the .400" lift (or around there) that I was seeing, but it does have an effect, I am just trying to make it obvious that it does. When you go from one drastic setting to the next, differences are seen very noticeably. Still testing though.

I'm working on it, keep your pants on. Have to research it more so I don't spew off a bunch of inaccurate crap, dealing with injector design and injection pump design...all the nitty gritty of it.

Don't make it sound like something that it is not. Whether the air is cold or hot the mileage should remain the same, the fact that VP44 trucks like to do their antics during winter is not the same thing. As for a heat shield, I have a temperature probe zip tied to the BHAF. It seems that if water freezes outside, there is basically no difference. As ambient rises, there starts to be a difference ranging from maybe 5-10* higher than ambient when ambient is 50-80F. 80*+ gets around 10-15* rise. Pulling a trailer will yield 5-10* higher than the unloaded readings, maybe even higher. EGT's and the BHAF temp correlate very closely with each other as the exhaust manifold seems to radiate a lot of heat which is seen in the BHAF temps. Consequently, pulling a trailer raises EGT's which in turn raises the BHAF intake temp. As for engine operation, I notice when temps get to 10 below my truck really flys. When it gets really hot, my truck is obviously not as happy. If I had to guess, I would say -10F produces 10 more HP than at 100F. I really don't think it is noticeable enough to make a note of and go out of your way to make intake temps as cold as possible. A 20* difference isn't going to make a difference big enough (or at all) to offset the cost of whatever you did to make them lower. I calculated it once and there is hardly any difference in the heat of compression when comparing even -10F to 100F, though the air at -10 is more dense so you get more air to burn the fuel in. Don't mistake that for why it won't start in the morning, the engine block is freezing and takes all that heat away..

I'm afraid mine does the same thing. It's air getting in the lines. Park on a downhill and the problem is cured. Park on an uphill and the fuel drains back to the tank.

This is becoming interesting. With the intake at 6 and exhaust at 30 I am noticing that boost is of course slower to build giving off black smoke for a lot longer period of time, but it seems to still build the same amount in the end. I thought of something that sort of ties with all of this but its too big of topic to just add to this thread.

How much vacuum does it take to move the filter minder?

Search for dirt bike/4 wheeler areas. There are a few around here that are pull up and park in the middle of the woods type deals, free (though you might have to listen to dirt bikes and 4 wheelers all day lol). We did that last time and it was much more fun than the $30 campsites, though I drove down a washout of mud and still dont know how I got turned around and got back up the muddy hill. Musta been the exhaust pushing me

Right about what? All I can think of is I told you I go a lot faster when I pull the trailer so that I am never anywhere near lugging it Works really good for me. Maybe you noticed your EGT's never become a worry when you do that. When I do 70 (2000RPM) I can hold it at 70 up any hill and am lucky to see anything over 900. I would do as you but 2000RPM in 4th on mine is not exactly moving lol.

I should make a section for hills, cept that seems like it has too many varying factors. I went towards branson yesterday and measured the grade and came up with 6%. Made a video of it because it always sounds neat going up them, of course driving faster helps strain it Was 91F out. It starts recording at the bottom of the hill before I start getting into the throttle. No I don't drive like that all the time, I got 24.5mpg on that tank (went 800 miles!) so you know how I drive the rest of the time

So all systems are go!

Where is the return line? All I see is a little hole above the thing the tubes go in.

I am not so sure it does have much effect on it anymore. I just took one out with nothing but penetrating oil and my 1/4" drive set. Figured I would be pretty safe with no leverage since the ratchet is only like 6" long. Measured the bolt, wire wheeled it, put some antiseize on it, stuck it back in. Can't believe it's only 32ft lbs. The bolt was a little warped though. I took out the top one on #3.

I've been looking into this a whole bunch and it's becoming a tossup between ss allenhead and regular 12.9 black oil allenheads. I would like to use the SS ones everywhere I can, but they are not as strong as the 12.9 ones, and some bolts such as the damper bolts use 12.9 so that will be a no go with SS. Some areas might get the bolt replaced with just the SS version, like the oil pan since I am not sure about getting at the bolts over the crossmember thinger with an allen wrench, though if I can get it in there I will make them all allen. As for stripping, I have read countless times that hitting the center of the allen bolt with a punch will make it easily unscrewable, though I plan on using some good antisieze. Then there is the exhaust manifold.... Would love to change those rusted pieces of crap out before it becomes too late, though it might already be too late. I don't know what grade they are or if SS will work there. Not sure why it wouldn't but need to do more research. Just found this site http://arp-bolts.com/ They have high strength SS bolts! Not allenhead but 12 point will work, anything but the 6 point Only problem is I have to take 1 bolt out of the manifold to get a size :banghead: Guess I got all day.

I can't say I gain any speed either. I know for a fact the brakes on the trailer don't work at all, same with the truck brakes. I've never had a dragging brake condition, don't even know how it would come about. You let off the brake pedal and the thing lets off the brake calipers, if its still holding them then I would think you got bigger problems.

Next thing I know that guy got an 04' powerstroke :cookoo:We do need a writeup on all this in here though...

I don't like the fuel filter there. I have tons of room on the fenders where it could go and then it wouldn't be such a PITA to change. Thinking of doing away with it completely and just having an in line fuel filter under the truck. Now you see my problem with the injector returns..

I have been wanting to do some reworking of my return line setup (stock 12V setup) and it's just a little weird. Now my question is, do the 24V's have the return for the injectors going straight back to the tank or do they somehow end up back in the inlet side of the VP44? I don't even remember seeing any return line things on the 24V injectors so did I miss something or what? The 12V engine dumps the injector return fuel straight into the fuel filter, so the whole return line setup remains at inlet side pressures. The only return line that has no pressure (goes to the tank) is the one on the P7100 that dumps excess fuel from the lift pump. Basically I want to get rid of the injector returns going to the fuel filter and dump them straight to the tank instead, but don't know if it will cause any issues since they supposedly need that inlet pressure for some reason, though the 24V uses the same injectors (with different top part) thus getting to my question above.

I use it 24/7. I can't pivot my foot back far enough to keep it at a constant speed too easily. Was a lot easier with the ford since you just floored it. Right now I put the very front tip of my shoe on the very bottom edge of the pedal, that way my foot is almost flat, rather than bent all the way up to my shin. I use it even more with the trailer.

I had that status as well so I didn't manage to go out and pull the long one and measure it

I forgot all about that. Hmm, we still need someone to figure out timing on those things. 13.5 years and we still have nothing lol.

If you could count them that would be awesome! I have just been taking bolts out 1 at a time so I don't break the seal on anything.