ISX

We had a glazing a week or 2 ago, but last night it turned xmas white. Supposed to be getting more. Mom kept saying its not xmas unless there is snow, so now she can have her way :lol:Only problem is my dad got an elk that he wanted mounted, head and all this time (we usually just get the horns) and it will be done today but I will need to pull the trailer to get it. As of now, the road is still white. I don't see it happening.

Mike found out that they are triggered by the ECT and IAT before the engine is running. Don't know if he tested for post starting. I noticed my 12V will default to 30 seconds if I unplug the IAT and it will just blink after the engine starts.

What can you log? We need some actual timing numbers or something. Or at least to know if it is advancing or retarding. If you can find out anything though that would be great

He turned his edge off but left the IAT fooler on. This is just incredible. So with all that crap advancing it, the mileage goes way down, with it retarding it all the way, the mileage goes way down. Are we even sure it is advancing it and retarding it like we think? I know nobody seems 100% sure about what exactly it is doing. At least we know with the edge and the fooler IAT it gets a lot better mileage. But still this is just ate up, I get 16 with the damn 4k lb enclosed trailer at 70mph, big tires cant kill you THAT much. I don't even care how much the timing is screwing you over, something is just way off on those things. I'm gonna figure this out!

Yeah personally I am on the road before a minute passes. Might take me a 1/2 a mile to hit 55 but as much power as these things have its not like they are being worked that much more driving especially if it takes a half a mile to get up to speed. Mike said a couple threads ago that the 3 cyl high idle and exhaust brake use 6GPH which was 9.1mpg at 55mph and since we get 20mpg+ at 55, that means you use less than half the fuel, so if your gonna load the hell out of it with the exhaust brake and 3 cyl, then what difference is driving it.. Another thing is that the high idle is what, 1200RPM?.. 55 is around 1600.. I don't think 400RPM more is going to be detrimental.I do understand that the engine needs to be preheated a little bit and let the oil get around. One guy I know was telling me about some engine he saw that demonstrated how long oil takes to get to everything and he said it took a while (maybe 5 min) but that was idling and the oil pump runs off of the engine so the faster it goes the more oil it is going to push. I say if it is under 0F, let it idle for 2 minutes, if it is 0-20, 1 minute, any warmer and 30 seconds. Remember that I don't mean get in and floor it, I mean wait that long then slowly proceed up to speed. If the speed you are going to happens to be interstate speeds, add 30 seconds to the idle times. A cold engine is not going to be happy about an instant 80mph.. Generators are very interesting in how they work and I am surprised that they do work like they do because a lot of the commotion about trucks is thrown out the windows with generators. For example, a lot of generators for backup have a governor that is set at one speed, wide open (or redline I guess is a better term lol). Yes, the thing will start up floored and stop at redline, there is no idle no nothing. I don't remember the standards on how long they have to start providing power after the power goes out for backup system but it isn't long, maybe 30 seconds. That means 30 seconds to crank over and get to proper RPM for 60Hz and start making power. The smaller generators (maybe 100HP) that I saw transfering were doing it in 10 seconds flat.

You got a point. If you can keep it from running away from you, then I don't see a problem. Might even be better for the trans if it is warmed up before you take off and really put the load to it My parking brake is crap so I would have to chain it to a tree. Just leave the chain wrapped around it and back up and hook it to the trailer chain hooks real quick, problem solved.

I wonder if this is the updated version. http://www.class8truckparts.com/Digital-Temperature-Gauge-PPC00037/M/B00474YSC6.htm I think the other was only $25 though.

I need that temp switch! No I haven't tried any but the 2 I had. Seems like it is hit and miss if they work properly or not.

Can you get a pic of the length of that tank? Or a description of how long it is or measurement.. I will do the same.

I'd say your doing things perfectly. The theory is that if you idle it when the engine is cold, it easily condenses the fuel on the cylinder walls and washes them out. This is why you should start it and idle a minute then just slowly load the engine (drive). I think your fine though, I wouldn't let it idle more than 5 minutes. I don't think it is much of a concern when it is up to operating temp because it probably burns most of the fuel up, but the cold morning engine wouldn't have enough heat idling to burn it all.

You have to get 60 lb springs to run over 3200RPM. I would just get the 3GSK if anything, then you don't need the updated valve springs. 4k RPM's is a little unnecessary if you ask me.Not sure about the cheapest place.

Mines at least 35. I have filled up with 34.5 Before.

That museum looks great! I would shoot one of these things down for his collection but I read somewhere that they can fly with 1 engine and 1 wing and at the rate they go by and my chances of hitting them and... It might take a while

That is what I have been thinking of the entire time. Advancing it makes head pressure go up but only after the injector has fired. This is why you get a hell of a knock because of all this advancing, mine doesn't knock like that. Up until the point of the injector firing however, the heat of compression is still building and is hotter when the piston is closer to TDC since it is compressing more. Since the incoming air is really cold (since it is winter), you would want more heat in there to detonate the injection better. It wouldn't matter so much in summer. With cold incoming air being more dense, I predict the temperature rises more because there are more air molecules being compressed. By retarding the timing you can wait for the air to get really hot and then fire in the injection and watch it explode more efficiently because there are more air molecules in there. The VP will still advance timing with engine RPM, but the baseline timing needs to be more retarded in the winter.

Johns would get as hot as yours with "High Idle and Exhaust Brake" and his was just idling at 750 in D. But I don't know if a stock tranny would do that, his was triple disc for triple the strain

I am thinking of forgetting about the engine and just getting an inverter and electric heater for the cab lol. Plug it into the house to get it warm in the morning, plug it into the inverter to keep it warm down the road until the heater core can overtake it.

I always wanted to do something like that with mine, but instead, hook up a very elaborate and unorthodox system of gears and pulleys to my PTO and power the house with a generator head until the truck was warm :lmao:Your idea is sound but does have safety concerns. I don't know how hot the trans would get just sitting there in D for 10 min. Not sure if it would heat up too much or not. Don't think it would get too hot but not sure. I have played around with running the heater core lines inside the downpipe (since I got 5" to work with) but surface area is a big factor and seems like it would have to have 5ft of copper pipe running into the downpipe, or more. Keep thinking though! Any idea could turn out to be the next best thing to sliced bread

So you got 18.6MPG going uphill and all that with big tires? What would you normally have got?