ISX

Well for one, a 7.3 doesn't have an EGR cooler... All of the things you just mentioned are exactly the things my brother has replaced on his 6.0. The 7.3's are entirely different and I know several people who swear by them every bit as much as our cummins'.

I need to run some more tests. Everything ohms out fine but after it starts drawing a load something arcs. I need a megger or something. For now I will just take the cord off and ohm it and see what's going on.

Pull the switch off and push on that button and see if the lights turn on and off. Pull the connector and they should turn off, if that turns them off you got a bad switch.

Last I read it was $120 also so I was really surprised when it was that cheap. I am just waiting to see any replies on a higher wattage one. I would be thrilled to have it at 200F already

Are you talking about your tail lights or the E-brake indicator?Here is the taillight switch on the brake pedal.

Went out this morning so I could get the truck all nice and warm before I pulled the trailer today and the GFI kept tripping. I ohmed out the connections and everything was fine so I said the hell with it, stuck it in a regular outlet and heard a bzzzzzzzrrrrrrrrrrt. Pulled it out of the outlet and it looked fine. Traced it back to truck which smelled like burnt rubber but couldn't find anything burnt, maybe it just didn't look burnt enough. The elements were at the right ohms and everything so I don't see how they shorted unless it was the ground shorting to the hot or something. Anyhow, I probably need a new one and new cord. Probably this heater http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3975628 And this cord http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HEATER_CABLE_FL Hmm, that was cheaper than I thought it would be. I have heard rumors floating around that I can use an 8.3 block heater, is that true? I really just want something other than the 750, was thinking a 1000W one would be nice.

My brother has a 6.0... I know all too well

The later 7.3's (99-03.5?) are probably the next best turbo diesel there is. I know of several people with them and they never break down. I heard the earlier 99-01 maybe 00 had better stuff than the later few years also. Should be one hell of a truck!

I didn't have any problem watching you do it so I don't know why your complaining..

On my 12V, the only fuel being returned is the fuel going out of the overflow valve on the p7100. The return lines on the injectors T into the fuel filter. I don't know if your's does the same or not. I know the 24V has a return for the injectors on the back of the head but I never traced it out.

It really wouldn't be that hard to make. Just a tank hooked into any oil port and put a valve on it. Use a check valve so in the morning that 100psi oil (since it is so thick) would be stored at that pressure, then have a bypass around that check valve that also has a valve in it to release it when your cranking.

Answered them all in whatever color that is. Dark blue.

Yeah I would aim for 0-45. I don't think they make those though so 0-60 is probably the best bet.

Yeah I think I am going to hold off for a while. Just seeing what is out there for now.

Fuel pressure should be in the green like Mike said.Boost will be around 3-10 cruising around, should get to 20 if you floor it on a stock truck. EGT varies with speed and ambient temperature. In the winter with no winter front you are lucky to get over 600 at any constant speed. In the summer at 70mph you might be around 700F.Ok Mike didn't say on this thread, and I can't seem to find the pic stodg filled you in anyways.

Lubricity is the main concern with winter products that nobody considers. 2 stroke oil adds the lube back into the fuel. It is good practice to add something like power service or something to prevent the fuel from gelling since you never know what the diesel station protects their fuel to (temperature-wise). The only problem with something that prevents gelling is that it takes lube qualities away. So you add whatever amount of anti-gel it says to use, then add a quart of 2 stroke per 35 gallon fillup and the lube should be sufficient. I stopped running any anti-gel and just go to the big trucker station as I am pretty sure they add anti-gel to it. I have gone down to 0F with their fuel with no problems. Mike has ran down to -20F on 2 stroke without issue. As long as it is a reputable fuel station, they should have the fuel protected down to the temp the area normally sees. I doubt Florida is going to have diesel rated for -20F... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/2-cycle-oil.htm

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2669-Head-Bolts?highlight=head+bolt

I was until I had to go freeze to make you a video Naw I needed to make one anyways So here ya go. Let me know if you need a better video, that one was a little crappy since it was dark out. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PsEtQzdugw --- Update to the previous post... I said I would make something to show where the valves are on the book method and after 2 hours of starring at it I think I got it all worked out. The spreadsheet shows the cam lobe position based on TDC #1 or TDC #2. I made it so that 0* is the center of the cam lobe and the maximum valve lift. In the blue it says valve open degrees on cam, 315 to 45 degrees, that is when the cam lobe is pushing a valve open. So if it falls between that 315-45* range, the valve is open. On the chart I have the open valves highlighted in green. Now the book method shows a number of valves you can adjust on each TDC, which I have made the text red for the valves you adjust depending on the TDC you are on. Valve lash should ideally be done when the top of the cam lobe is at the opposite of the pushrod, and since I have 0* as the maximum lift on the chart, the lobe should be at 180* to set the valves as this is the farthest away position. The valves are 90* apart per cam degrees so to do both valves using the valve overlap method (the one this thread is about), you would want to hit the split difference of the valves, putting them each to one side of the bottom of the cam. The exhaust would be at 225* and the intake would be at 135*. This is exactly where they end up when you do the valve overlap method. Using the book method, 4 valves are 75* from 180 and only 60* away from opening, whereas the valve overlap method ensures they are all 45* from 180 and 90* away from opening. Even though the 4 valves on the book method are closer to opening, you still have to turn the engine another 120* for them to start opening.. So it is plenty far away and there is no chance for you to screw up so badly that the pushrod is on a cam lobe In other words, either way works fine and accurate and is just a matter of preference

Got some more figures today. It's getting interesting now that we are starting to match speeds so we can compare. You can see how I am just barely over Mike's EGT at 55 but the ambient temp is 22F hotter on my run so he should have been in the 300F's being only 3F, but the winter front bumped it up for him. I am going to leave my winter front off for the sake of this thread and see what I get whenever it decides to hit 3F here. I am organizing the results by EGT temp. I would like to do something to make each users truck stand out a little so it is easier to tell the trucks apart (I am not big on reading the year and model for every EGT result, would rather my truck's stuff be in green, mikes be in red, something like that..).

My dad came home with a set of crows feet after I asked him if he had any that day So if you want to bring it back we can redo it and torque the lines down properly lol. This is what a crowsfoot looks like. You stick your torque wrench in it off to the side.

Yes, here is the link if the embedding doesn't work, you might just give it a sec on the first post to see if it loads after 10 secs.

Guess I need boost in there too Thanks Volkswagon!

No such thing as a noob here! We are all here to help or learn from each other, no matter how simple something may seem, and this is kind of weird anyways which is why I added a video. Anyhow when you turn the alternator the engine rotates backwards from the normal way. Normally it goes exhaust then intake (then compression and power) but since the alternator only turns it backwards (and slips the other way as I assume you found out), the process is also reversed. Going backwards you would see the intake valve open then close as the exhaust valve opens. Right when the exhaust valve starts to open is when you stop, then you adjust the running mate piston since it will be on the compression/power stroke transition which means the valves are shut so you can adjust both of them. The running mates will be the same but you are just working in reverse which means the valves will be working in reverse as well (intake closing as exhaust opening, rather than vice versa if you were turning the engine the correct way). The only reason I do this is because I don't have to find TDC and have a book that tells me which valves I can set. I know if one piston is on valve overlap, that it's running mate has both valves shut and I can do both of them. Then you crank it 120* and do the next one. Once you get the hang of it you can fly through the valves. I will make another video hopefully tonight showing you everything in reverse since I know this is different than the way you are used to (the way it shows in the book). I am going to have to do some figuring using the book method to see exactly where each valve is, but I think the method I am showing you is more accurate since the cam lobe will be opposite to the pushrods whereas the book method has them pretty close. I will figure it out tomorrow though and see how close they really are. Keep asking questions if you are still unsure of something

Ah, there we go. Lots of info on that site. Thanks for the help. I have a huge problem with starting and stopping my truck all the time and I'm sure it would benefit from something like that.

I bet I have started my truck more times than Caj I doubt he was starting and stopping every 100 miles.