wil440

Just replace whatever is available that contains the cable but do both sides

To be fair I jump started a diesel van few months ago and I'm sure that was the downfall of my resettable breaker, batteries on the van were blocks of wood and it started but the breaker popped, I think that messed the rather small contact area up on the output stud and over time it just generated more heat through a bad connection that eventually was too much, I had to destroy it to take a lokk, if it was bolted together it would have been easy to clean the contact area

Pull the adjuster wheel out, clean the threads and the bit at the other end, then lube both ends with a little copperslip Lube nothing else

I have 110 active Ebay listings which are Ram parts or Cat parts then maybe about the same amount I haven't got around to listing yet I'm nearly retired got to do something to top up the beer and my truck fund

I found time to take a look at the link, I could either make that or did a search on converting and I can make that too

Just listened to the vid and that sounds like a drum brake noise to me, I'd be taking the drums off, sounds like a brake shoe spring to me I recently rotated my tyres and while wheels were off fronts got new pads ( I have a 100 sets.... NO JOKE) Took the drums off of the rears and wheel cylinder just started to leak one side and hub seal the other side a little wet Visited Rockauto and ordered 4 of the correct wheel cylinders, 4 of the chevy upgrade cylinders, and 4 hub seals (whenever I order from Rock I order more than I need, spreads the shipping costs)

Hi. from the UK..... good to see someone from Europe The WT mod is well worth doing If you do it one thing I found out, I fitted a 150amp resettable breaker to start with which lasted for over a year, I went to collect a Harley I bought a few months ago and the truck stopped charging 60 miles from home, after a check over I figured the resettable breaker had tripped and actually would not stay connected due to it making significant heat right at the breaker, I checked the charge lead back to the alternator and the alternator itself and all was cold so I just put both in/out cables onto the same stud on the breaker. I then ordered a 200amp fuse, fuseholder and 3 spare fuses from a marine supply company, once I'd fitted this I pulled the resettable breaker to bits to see what had happened to it. Made in China and there is no way this thing would stand 150amp, there was a peice of steel connected to the input stud and this sort of went over to the output stud but the contact area on the output side was a dimple which wasn't much bigger than an 1/8th, pathetic cheap rubbish. If you want to go resettable buy 2 and put one in the glovebox OR find one if you can that isn't MIChina

I'm pretty sure it would be cost effective here..... 5th wheel flatbeds are £10k plus up to £20k I messaged the guy who I moved a 5th wheel last week I know he bought it for £1500, paid me £500 to move it, he wants £4500, I offered him £2100 which is a quick £100, of course he said no I'll search for it.... thanks

WOW

No the road surface wasn't the cause of the cords showing that was just stupidity on my part this particular wheel leans inwards due to the suspension rubbers being worn.... maybe you guys don't have axles like these, or maybe they are used but on low weights The picture IF it comes out right way up .... where the black peice is there is a bush into the axle tube, when this wears it can cause the top of the wheel to lean in which will wear the inner edge of the tyre

Well on my way to the jobsite this morning (Sunday) I get pulled over by the cops or should I say cop, managed to get my seatbelt on and quick so he didn't do me for that.... refuse to be told to wear a seatbelt and have never worn one EXCEPT when the cops are around or driving a newer POS that never stops bleeping as in my wifes silly newish volvo Cop gets out and tells me to turn the motor off and then he goes into 10 minutes of why he pulled me, his words were weaving across the lane, this part of the M1 has HGV ruts 2" deep but a little wider than my trucks track so either one wheel or the other is trying to escape the rut hence the weave, it's not bad just need to pay attention, once turned off onto the M69 no ruts no weave. I'm sitting there knowing i'm all in order, he looks around my box trailer and there's a tyre with cords showing on the inside, I hadn't seen it, fair enough £100 fine and 3 points on my license so most of today is just going to the Po Licemens christmas party, luckily he didn't put a "no movement" on it, this is the bit I don't get, if it was ok to go to my job and then go home why give me a ticket unless the ticket is just ££. The wheel that is worn has a worn rubber suspension unit which allows the wheel to lean in at the top and of course axles here are like rocking horse #### Here's a question....... I have a large bumper pull flatbed trailer, is there any plans or help on how to convert from bumper pull to 5th wheel, I can weld I have a 250amp mig and my brother can weld better than me...... has anyone ever made a 5th out of a towball trailer, makes it worse as the 5th wheel I moved for a guy last thursday was sold for £1500, I'm 2/3rds of that for new axles GGGRRRR

Took my truck 1 junction up the M1 motorway after rotating fronts to back yesterday, wobble gone nothing at all Got a job to go to tomorrow which is 70 odd miles round trip pulling my mobile workshop so that will be another test What I didn't do when I swapped fronts to back is swap the rears onto the fronts left to right which I've since read is recommended so when I get time next week I'm going to swap the fronts left to right and remove the stick on weights which to be fair don't appear to have any method to where they are stuck on certainly one wheel has 2 sets of weights on the inside a 1/4 out from each other, then as @W-T says add the rest of the beads up to 8oz If that fails I've checked new Toyo 305/70/16's and they are at £180 each just delivered not fitted ...... right now they may well have to run until they are worn out I did consider that they might be too low a load rating but they are D or 118 or 1320kg per tyre which is 2910lbs, I haven't any equipment to weight the front or better still each front corner, if they are too low I'm into a pile of cost to renew as jack #### here is really any heavier so tyres will have to come from the USA

Maybe.... he's already messaged me asking if he can hook up a 24v tow vehicle ... as in HGV I told him no unless you can drop the voltage to 12v but seeing as the tractor unit would weigh around twice the trailer I doubt he needs the brakes working, just a 24v trailer lightboard would be fine

The wear on these tyres is so bad and so sudden that I'd expect the tread to be moving and a lot I assure you they are far from old and here in the uk we don't get sun or ozone to the degree that tyres go bad after 2 years I'll get better pictures @W-T I'll run it between highway junctions tomorrow and then if no different remove all weights and go to 8oz per wheel

The tyres are maybe 2 to 3 years old, I see what you are saying, the marks you refer to aren't cracks more like movement areas so road trash doesn't stick if that makes sense I really need to spread some thought on this and analyse what's going on here I need all the help I can get here

The tyres were on the front combined with a very pronounced wobble at certain speeds, funny thing was at a wobble speed it would just disappear then come back, this was on cruise control with no change in speed and no change in road conditions..... both fronts worn the same and they weren't wearing like that when first fitted, probably done 10k before they started to wear like this The darker patches on the pictures are the worn rear edges..... very difficult to see on a picture The pattern is around the whole of both tyres, I counted lugs on the inside and if I pick a very worn tread lug the next really worn one was 8 away, next one was 6 away, both these 2 does not have a worn lug next to it further into the tread but 1 lug out backwards, next lug further in is one lug forwards, outer lug is again one lug backwards. I don't think it's shock absorbers as it is across the whole circumference of the tyre but what's got me is 4 lugs side by side across the tyre are not worn the same

Yes all in all a good day.... guy told me I was the cheapest Used £180 in diesel so I'm more than happy

Yes due to the design of a ring and pinion one small change to one or the other has a huge affect on the other as far as contact patch is concerned But as you know if you've done diffs all it is is pinion in/out and crownwheel left/right and bearing preload on both You either put it together twice and jobs a good un or 100 times and it still ain't right, it's certainly a pretty good brain workout........ sorry couldn't spell excersise

Well after doing 350 miles yesterday mainly motorway (highway to you guys) I can say the wobble hasn't gone, it's different but still there to the point of shaking the panels off of the doors. 62 MPH was the best where as before I put the beads in 62 was the worst Plan now is in several stages so I will know for sure which fixes the problem Today.... rotated the wheels front to back, kept them on the same side, front brake pads were 1/2 worn so seeing as I have close to a 100 sets I fired a set in, rear shoes were fine but I have a slightly leaking wheel cylinder on the drivers side and a slightly leaking hub seal on the passenger side, rockauto here I come, been for a quick run and can't feel a wobble but I wasn't on a motorway, going to take it on the M1 tomorrow between my 2 closest junctions If rotating wheels/tyres cure it then I'm going to pull all weights off of the front rims and test again If that doesn't cure it I'm going to add beads up to the 8oz recommended and if that doesn't fix it I'm going to add 1oz at a time to the fronts till I have no more beads left And if that doesn't fix it I'll change the front shocks This is beginning to really #### me off now the tyres that were on the front have worn a pattern I haven't seen in 44 years of working on vehicles, the rear edge of some of the tread lugs are worn lower than the fronts... same across both front tyres see picture Front shocks appear to be ok and are not leaking and the front does not bounce

Well got down to a tiny little village near Evesham yesterday at 10.30am, trailer parked on a nice hard standing but way too low for my truck to get under, trailer batteries flat as blocks of wood luckily the guy had a telehandler so he lifted it onto my 5th wheel Electrical plug was the same as my truck so no messing about with any of that, all lights and brakes working. Had maybe 20 miles of tiny lanes to do before getting onto the A46 which is a decent road then M69 and M1 North finally the A1 to Wetherby racecourse where the buyer is on a film set, he's actually rented it out for 5 weeks accommodation for film people. Towed nice and is a fair bit lighter than mine

That's a tough one even I'm clueless on doing gear work. I'll admit my shortcoming. Anyone else willing to jump in and build an article for this? Ring and Pinion is not hard it's a time consuming job to get right especially if new parts are fitted and specialized tools are needed, for instance our trucks need a spreader to get the centre section out it either fits into the 2 holes on the rear of the casing either side of the centre or you can build a tool to sort of squash the casing a little from top to bottom either way without something to expand the case it ain't coming out, also a good DTI and various sized bearing and seal drivers. I've done several 9 1/4's which are chocolate and fitted in the 1500's, they have little 1/2 moon hard steel cups that sit over the ears of the limited slip plates to protect the casing as these ears move back and forward slightly, these break and drop out sometimes ending up in the gears, this stops the rear end dead, I have several dead gearsets where this has happened. Never took pictures of diffs I've done though

I just got a large penny washer trimmed it so it would fit.... it needs to be a bit egg shaped, there is a bolt right next to the dowel pin just remove the bolt and put the penny washer on it so it covers the dowel pin to stop it coming out, while you are in there check the torque on the timing case bolts, 3 or 4 of mine were loose I can't remember the torque on those though

I agree with what you say John and as you say 99% of the time As you know I'm from a heavy plant background and a dumptruck hauling 100 tons up a haul road steep enough to tip some of the load off the back when the trans changes gear and turbo/ engine cool down is key to long engine life, with my truck I just carry on with what I see every day hence leaving my truck to cool to below 280f Turbo's on well looked after cat dumptrucks get tossed in the bin at 12k to 15k hrs, water pumps/ fan drives/ transmissions/ hydraulic pumps at the same time or thereabouts Stupid people run those parts till they fail

It will get a good check over before I move it

I'm at £1.50 per mile rounded up to £500 I figure £200 minus the VAT @20% which I get back for fuel so that's £160, £340 for the day, I'll take that