wil440

Come to think of it my brakes got hot earlier in the year, I did the pads and there was no wear in the bearing or knuckle ball joints then but I I'll bet the bearing wear and ball joints were the reason my truck pulled left when the steering joint snapped

The bearing race that is apart was really badly damaged here it's called brinelled, bit like the chicken and the egg, which first, did the race and rollers wear thus allowing water in or did water get in and cause damage ? I've seen lots of bearings with the races pitted badly with no water in sight as well as water getting in trashing the bearing, me personally looking at how the bearing is sealed I'd say wear caused the seal to fail making the bearing wear even faster as the seal on both races is pretty basic as in like a hub seal but only about a 1/16th if that deep so no possibility of sealing with a little wear

Here's pictures of the bearing carrier without the wheel carrier

I'll check tomorrow, don't think I threw them out In a nutshell the bearing carrier which bolts into the steering knuckle if that's what you call it, on the Dana 60 the centre is sort of square with 4 threaded bolt holes, either side of the square is a circular piece with the taper bearing cone machined into it then opposing taper bearings with plastic bearing cages and the grease seal and a thin steel shield, this is then all pressed onto the wheel and disc carrier. The ABS unit has the ring in between the 2 bearings the none abs has the same thickness ring but no teeth just smooth Most vehicles here the bearing unit itself would press into the bearing carrier so the only thing you buy/replace is a bearing

It is a lot better, self centres now

Well pulled it all apart, top/bottom ball joints totally worn out and really stiff to turn, that's explained the none return to centre Wheel bearing was also worn out, pressed it apart to see what the deal was and one race was really brinelled, once apart I can now see why the bearing is not available,the races are the whole thing one on the inside, one on the outsite but actually machined into the hub, I'd got a 06 to 08 bearing so compared the 2 and yes there is a difference, the wheel end is nowhere near the same shape where the disc attaches but the actual bearing looked to be the same other than the new one had abs my truck does not on the front Pressed the wheel carrier out which pops the bearing seal out and leaves the inner bearing still on the wheel carrier, carefully removed the individual bearings, the bearing cage was plastic so bearings came out easily then pulled the inner race off of the wheel carrier using a split bearing puller on the smaller edge, put the bearing back together, the outer seal was a little difficult to get together and in the right place but got it done after a while. Removed the wheel studs and disc and used the split bearing puller to pull the 1/2 bearing cone off of the old wheel carrier, pressed the new bearing onto my old wheel carrier Pressed out the old ball joints, pressed new in and built it all up, job done So 06 to 08 wheel bearings HA590166 timken with the square 4 hole mounting, the wheel carrier is different BUT the actual bearing and mount is the same as a 1998 Dana 60 bearing, right PITA to swap the wheel carrier but faster than waiting a week or more for one to be shipped to the UK as I need it running and not parked with a wheel in bits 4 new tyres ( TOYO again methinks) tomorrow and all ok for the MOT recheck

Would be easier and faster/cheaper for me due to shipping. I can't really understand why just the bearing is not available

Took my truck for it's yearly MOT check today failed on drivers side upper and lower ball joint.... no problem got those drivers side wheel bearing ..... haven't got one, have a 2006 to 2008 but my guess is it will be different ?? Here in the UK a lot of replacement wheel bearings are just that... just the bearing and not the whole thing, we just press the 2 peices apart, remove the bearing and repress back together, is this possible on a 98 4wd with no front ABS, I have a good bearing company not to far from me so if it pressed apart and there's a number on the actual bearing it may be a go ?? Changing the bearing would be quicker than ordering the whole thing from rockauto

I did the pump mod a few years ago, no bother at all but after a few weeks or so lost all power assist on steering and brakes the same valve had stuck, drove home about 20 miles with rock hard steering and next to no brakes cleaned the relief valve no problem since, well until today, PS fluid leaking out of a small hole in the hydroboost just where the accumulator is, good job I ordered a new hydro the other month..... my job for tomorrow

Yes it's been hanging by nowt (nothing)for a good while

To be fair the Cat TDTO is dark anyway, I'm considering using it in my axles as it's good enough for 100 ton dump trucks and I have plenty of Cat Friction modifier to stop the chatter, my diffs are 85/90 right now with Friction modifier but TDTO50W I think would be better as it's a bit thinner but very high shear if that's the right word..

After the ball joint at the steering gear snapped the other week AND it's MOT time I decided ok time to fix some stuff, long steering joint I've had for nearly a year and not fitted it, on the list, right hand wheel drive shaft U joint cream krackered so 2 on the list from rock, some clown was over the white line on a little lane a few weeks ago and smashed the right towing mirror glass and body so on the rock list SO 2 u joints and a towing mirror $350 or so to my door inc shipping duty and VAT .... pants down comes to mind, it's getting expensive to run my truck already got upper and lower ball joints and all the rest of the steering, shocks all round, brake calipers and pads The Cummins shipping crate is not going to try and kill me again

Looking good, on oil IF I had a manual trans it would get Cat TDTO50W as in Tranmission,Drive,Train,Oil 50Weight good enough for some really serious heavy mobile plant..... THEN use Cat SOS oil sampling to let them say when it needs to be changed but then again I use SOS kits all the time as no oils now are changed except engine oil until the oil fails a lab check, saves mobile plant operators millions of squids

You're right, impossible to inspect as the break was just down in the taper which more than likely held it for way longer than it should, truck has done 198k, it had done 140k when I bought it and I haven't replaced that so done more than 60 k might even be original can't say. It was certainly a "Final Destination " script and I'm only still alive because my truck pulls slightly left ( don't forget we drive on the left here in the uk so left is to the kerb) If it pulled right I'd be in the box 6ft under right now as there were 3 big semi trucks coming the other way with no seperation, my truck is due it's MOT check soon, if the guy says can't pass it as the brakes are unbalanced he's going to get told straight "do one" Can't type on here what I actually shouted to myself once the truck had stopped

Here's a couple of pictures of the snapped ball joint, been cracked all the way through for a while think what was holding it was the tiny shiny bit and it was a little bit in the start of the taper and by that I mean the piece that is still in the joint not the piece in the picture Like I said day before I was in fast lane of M1 motorway doing 85