BugJEB34

Thanks for the replies, goofed around with everything last night and the problem hasn't reproduced itself since. Wife should get her car back Friday and after I get her deerproofing bumper put on her Jeep and out of my shop I'm gonna put the truck in there and clean everything up nice and keep an eye on everything in the process for what coulda caused the issue.

As the title states my truck won't turn over at times as in starter won't even attempt to spin, when its happened with me I let the clutch out and push it all the way in again and we crank right up. I'm thinking/hoping that I'm getting a bad connection on the sensor that tells the computer the clutch is engaged and it's safe to start. Just want to poll the audience and make sure I'm not missing something or this is symptoms of a bigger issue. My main issue with it right now is the wife used her jeep to do some deer hunting and it's in the shop till Friday and I head out of town for work tomorrow, so if its a bigger issue, then I want to get it resolved before I leave. No clicking like a solenoid going bad or anything like that, really just like what you get if you turn the switch with no clutch pushed in. Any help/reassuring would be great. Hate I travel so much now days, miss getting on here and catching up and seeing whats going on as often.

Local built stoves are some really good ones, the one I used for a while was built by my father in law off specs from a name brand, but with high end fire bricks (they owned a brick company so specially made some to really hold heat) and much thicker steel than the store bought. It took a while to get it all heated up, but once you did it held the heat like none other. Only problem is around my area now if you heat with wood insurance companies are requiring you to provide them with the UL number off your stove and a photo of the UL plate. If you do decide on going some route like that be sure to check before you spend the money.

Welcome! I'm in NC as well, what part are you in?

Charlotte, NC area for me.

Sales for Drywall and Steel framing mainly, but also sale about any construction related tool you can think of as well as anything else for the building industry materials wise I can get my hands on. Been here going on 7 years, since right out of college, and spent the first 4.5 in purchasing and the last 2+ selling it. Then there is all that hobby type stuff like anyone else.

There is a guy in Denver who does classic car upholstery mostly, but has done several dodge seats for my uncle. Message me if you'd like to know his name, he does very nice work and is extremely reasonable. He did some stuff on both my broncos and I was always really pleased. Sometimes takes his time a little but for the price and the work he does I've never minded.

Welcome!!! Always good to have more pros. 2 of my 3 gauges are from you guys, and the 3rd will be as soon as I need to replace the FP gauge.

Always like seeing Honda ATV's. I've got an '06 Foreman 500, my 3rd Honda lifetime, and still have my '95 TRX300. Doesn't matter how hard you work em, they just keep going on.I really like the EFI on those ranchers though, couple of my buddies ride those and they have as much get up as my 500 if not more. if the wife wouldn't kill me I'd love to have the new EFI Foreman. It'd probably require me riding more than 2 times a year to talk her into it though.

Welcome from NC.

Went over the weekend and had the codes checked, and no codes at all. Got my gauges finally installed so they are no longer collecting dust in my shop and I am getting around 12 to 14 psi of fuel pressure. I know it needs changed to one of the upgraded models and I'd prefer it stay above 14, but with the new kid and all as long as it stays above 10 I'm not putting that as a top priority. Now that I have the fuel pressure figured out, not codes, and still getting white smoke until its warm I will be retorquing the head bolts and then continue from there. Still no coolant loss, but I do have some weaping injector lines that I plan to get cleaned up when I retorque. Is there any chance that air getting in the lines could cause me an issue with the smoking? --- Update to the previous post... Glad I could provide some humor, won't hold it against you at all. Heck with some of the stuff I do to keep things as DIY I'm really surprised my neighbors don't think I'm nuts. Most of the folks in my neighborhood think changing oil is a major undertaking and anytime they see me working on my truck they assume its just an old clunker that is always broken. Preventative maintenance to them or talking about it to most of them is like trying to explain nuclear energy.

Don't worry I plan to pull any codes before I bother checking anything else!!

I will check those as well just to be sure. My only issue is the truck runs perfectly even when its smoking. I'm not getting any missing, no loss of power at any time, just some white smoke and it doesn't seem to have any fuel type of smell. Will be taking a look at it all next weekend and will report my findings.

As of last time I drove the truck which I think was Sunday, I still had no codes with the key trick.

Haha, actually kind of what I was thinking. Either that or take off, slam ob brakes and jump out and do a chinese fire drill getting back to the smoke to smell it. I just have to find a place to do it so my neighbors don't see me pull my truck out of the shop, take off up the street, jump out and smell the smoke, then back it back into the shop. They'd all be over asking my wife if I had went nuts. --- Update to the previous post... I knew this one was going to come up and I'm an idiot, lift pump is a stock one, I replaced it right when I bought the truck because I knew they crapped out often, so the pump is 2.5 years old and I will check the pressure. At that time I didn't realize I needed to get a nicer one nor did I know of the nicer ones. I have a gauge sitting in the shop to go in, but they have been sitting there for a while now, so I need to get them put on. I will plug into the test port and see what I'm getting.